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Is a forgiving driver more forgiving than a forgiving 3 wood off the tee if you are more interested in forgiveness than distance?


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Just a question that I am wrestling with. I am a self admitted duffer who is addicted to the game.  I hit a Ping K15 3 wood off the tee, and it is darn good! But I have always had problems hitting a driver.

Here's my question: which is more forgiving from the tee: A forgiving 3 wood or a forgiving driver? I know that one has a bigger head and the other has a shorter shaft, but which is more forgiving? Thanks in advance for any advice.

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I've heard pros are actually straighter with the driver because a poor mishit on the smaller face of a 3 wood is often more penal.
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Just a question that I am wrestling with. I am a self admitted duffer who is addicted to the game.  I hit a Ping K15 3 wood off the tee, and it is darn good! But I have always had problems hitting a driver.

Here's my question: which is more forgiving from the tee: A forgiving 3 wood or a forgiving driver? I know that one has a bigger head and the other has a shorter shaft, but which is more forgiving? Thanks in advance for any advice.


Driver faces have a larger sweet spot and are more forgiving for distance on off center hits.  They also are designed with a curved face to direct the ball back on line on a toward the toe or heel hit due to the gear effect.  You probably have noticed this when a toe hit drew back or a heel hit faded back toward your intended line.

3W have some of this technology, but less of it because the face is smaller.

That being said, the driver is different because ideally you want to hit up on the ball or at least close to zero angle of attack, the shaft is longer and a bit harder to control.  We also tend to swing harder with the driver, which adds to variability.

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Just a question that I am wrestling with. I am a self admitted duffer who is addicted to the game.  I hit a Ping K15 3 wood off the tee, and it is darn good! But I have always had problems hitting a driver.

Here's my question: which is more forgiving from the tee: A forgiving 3 wood or a forgiving driver? I know that one has a bigger head and the other has a shorter shaft, but which is more forgiving? Thanks in advance for any advice.

In terms of slicing and hooking the ball the 3-wood will curve less because it produces less ball speed.

In terms of loosing distance on mis-hits, like having a decent swing but caught the ball slightly on the toe of the club, then a driver will produce better results because it maintains ball speeds more.

I would learn to hit a driver at 60% your max. I prefer to hit a punchy chippy driver than a 3-wood just because it has a larger sweet spot.

Matt Dougherty, P.E.
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Just a question that I am wrestling with. I am a self admitted duffer who is addicted to the game.  I hit a Ping K15 3 wood off the tee, and it is darn good! But I have always had problems hitting a driver.  Here's my question: which is more forgiving from the tee: A forgiving 3 wood or a forgiving driver? I know that one has a bigger head and the other has a shorter shaft, but which is more forgiving? Thanks in advance for any advice.

The driver is generally going to be more forgiving. The only reason I use a 3W off the tee is if I don't want to hit too far. It sounds like you are more comfortable with your 3W. It might simply be because you tee it up lower than the driver? You can try teeing up lower with your driver and see how that performs? Later on, you can tee up higher as you gain confidence with it.

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"Forgiving" generally refers to how much help you're getting from the club on off-center hits. Agree with others who say a driver is more forgiving in that regard because it's got a much bigger face. The problem with the driver, though, is the lack of loft so even when you hit it solidly on the face, the relationship between where that face is pointed and your swing path are going to affect the flight of the ball a lot more than with a more lofted fairway wood. So if your problem is simply hitting it in the middle of the club, then the driver is better, but if it's more to do with how far off line its traveling after that, then you're probably going to see better results with the 3 wood. Either way, keep working on your swing (don't "quit" on the driver) because eventually you'll be able to hit it well enough that it'll benefit you over the 3 wood.
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With the "newer" drivers available (I just traded an 11 year old one for an SLDR) they are so remarkably forgiving, much more so than my old driver and my 3 wood. Bunting the driver is much easier than hitting a 3 wood off the tee, especially for folks like me who may play only every other week or so, may not be warmed up, rigor mortis has partially set in, etc.

In fact I have put my 3 wood in the old bag and now carry a 4W as my only fairway wood, used rarely other than the fairway.

Clubs these days are so forgiving, it's crazy not to take advantage and get the added distance.

Steve

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I've heard pros are actually straighter with the driver because a poor mishit on the smaller face of a 3 wood is often more penal.

Ten years ago I would have said go with 3W. But since then drivers have better MOI (moment of inertia) - especially the forgiveness drivers. So, a driver would probably work better for most golfers, especially given Savvy's note.

The only time I hit an FW instead of a driver is when a solid driver shot will go too far for the landing area, or if a hole is SUPER tight. (My home course has some short par 4 holes where a less than perfect driver shot will wreck the hole; a 4H draw is my preferred shot there - really play it  safe and low.)

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Has anyone used the "mini" drivers from Taylor Made, that seem to be the "best of both worlds" which someone mentioned earlier in this thread? The're higher lofted with a 43.5" shaft, but have a bigger head than a typical 3W.

I saw something for the new AeroBurner Mini, but then it mentioned they did a "mini" for the SLDR too. Might be a good middle ground, but I've never hit one.

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Has anyone used the "mini" drivers from Taylor Made, that seem to be the "best of both worlds" which someone mentioned earlier in this thread? The're higher lofted with a 43.5" shaft, but have a bigger head than a typical 3W.

I saw something for the new AeroBurner Mini, but then it mentioned they did a "mini" for the SLDR too. Might be a good middle ground, but I've never hit one.

I found the SLDR mini very hard to control. It has less MOI than the typical driver, but the front low CG like the SLDR. Just a bad combination in my opinion.

I am not sure about the AeroBurner Mini.

I would say just learn how to hit the driver easy. I guess if you never hit the 3-wood off the ground then a mini-driver might fit better.

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Just a question that I am wrestling with. I am a self admitted duffer who is addicted to the game.  I hit a Ping K15 3 wood off the tee, and it is darn good! But I have always had problems hitting a driver.

Here's my question: which is more forgiving from the tee: A forgiving 3 wood or a forgiving driver? I know that one has a bigger head and the other has a shorter shaft, but which is more forgiving? Thanks in advance for any advice.

It sorta depends on the player. Some higher handicappers, who can have a tendency to swing down and left, see better results with a 3-wood because it has more loft.

I prefer to hit a driver, can tee the ball up and the club head is bigger. Also, good chance I'm going to hit it further.

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3 wood is more forgiving. Why do you think pros use it on many narrow par 4s?? To hit the fairways. Shorter shaft, less kick, you can hit down on it like all your other clubs and it normally stays on line.
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3 wood is more forgiving. Why do you think pros use it on many narrow par 4s?? To hit the fairways. Shorter shaft, less kick, you can hit down on it like all your other clubs and it normally stays on line.

I don't mean to pick on you, but I see people say this quite a bit, and I want to clarify something. Just because you see pros do it doesn't mean it's the right decision, or that they did it for the reasons you (or the commentators on T.V.) listed. Shorter shaft, for example, can be accommodated with a driver by taking an AK grip. And even if the player's intention is to trade distance for a fairway hit doesn't mean it's a favorable trade (unless the off-fairway is significantly bad).

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I don't mean to pick on you, but I see people say this quite a bit, and I want to clarify something.

Just because you see pros do it doesn't mean it's the right decision, or that they did it for the reasons you (or the commentators on T.V.) listed.

Shorter shaft, for example, can be accommodated with a driver by taking an AK grip. And even if the player's intention is to trade distance for a fairway hit doesn't mean it's a favorable trade (unless the off-fairway is significantly bad).

I agree with what you said but ... what is an "AK grip?"

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I don't mean to pick on you, but I see people say this quite a bit, and I want to clarify something. Just because you see pros do it doesn't mean it's the right decision, or that they did it for the reasons you (or the commentators on T.V.) listed. Shorter shaft, for example, can be accommodated with a driver by taking an AK grip. And even if the player's intention is to trade distance for a fairway hit doesn't mean it's a favorable trade (unless the off-fairway is significantly bad).

Drivers are getti g longer and longer. I think the average driver nowadays is about 46" which is crazy. Mine is 45.75" an older Cleveland launcher sl290 with a sweet Miyazaki shaft. I don't want to snip an inch off the shaft because it will ruin the flex and balance of the club. I hit it just fine and sometimes really get a hold of it and get it out there 300 yards. My 3 wood is the oldest club in the bag and cheapest. An old walmart maxfli but I'm dead center every time. It's 43" and the perfect kick for my swing. Why upgrade when I'm in the fairway every time..

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