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Considering shortening my Driver (Help)


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I have a Taylormade R1 that I am considering shortening. I am only 5'5 and think a shorter driver would be better for me. However I am afraid of messing up the clubs flex and swing weight by shortening it. Any suggestions?
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Yes it will effect the shaft and swing weight. How much are you thinking of shortening it? I wouldn't recommend taking more than a 1/2" off.

Mike McLoughlin

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Mike is theoretically correct, but when I was struggling with my full length driver, I cut about 2 inches off it & I cant tell you how much better I hit it.    I couldn't care less if the swing weight was off, I successfully hit that driver for a couple years until I developed my swing - it was kind of my "training wheels" driver.   Nothing wrong with significantly shortening a driver IMHO for higher hcp golfers ...

John

Fav LT Quote ... "you can talk to a fade, but a hook won't listen"

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Yes it will effect the shaft and swing weight. How much are you thinking of shortening it? I wouldn't recommend taking more than a 1/2" off.

Well it's a standard 45.5. For a guy my size I've read that a driver with a length of 43.5 or 44 would be better. Im just not sure it's worth cutting down that much or just getting a new driver?

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Well it's a standard 45.5. For a guy my size I've read that a driver with a length of 43.5 or 44 would be better. Im just not sure it's worth cutting down that much or just getting a new driver?

I don't think it's worth it and cutting the shaft 1.5" to 2" is just going to change the shaft/club too much. Also with a driver you don't need the length as "fitted" for you the same way it is for the irons.

Mike McLoughlin

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Since the driver is hit from a tee, I think a "fit" to a height of an individual is much less of a factor. It is more important to find a manageable length where you are making good contact, or improving your swing to make great contact. I bought contact stickers, but one can use baby powder to spray on the face and view contact.

I'm with Mike. Unless you have a club maker who has expertise with hot melt, I would not go below 45 in. And even with hot melt would not go below 44.5 in.

I found significantly better contact with some drivers going from 45.5 to 45 inches. It depends on the driver and the shaft. I'm also okay at 45.25 inches with some drivers.

The R1 is not the most forgiving driver. With a hc of 20 and if you have driver issues, I'd look at something like the Callaway V Series or XR at callawaypreowned, Ping G25, G30, TM Aeroburner .... something more forgiving, and order at  45 in (or get it cut) and ask for D2 swing weight (not too heavy or light).

Ping G400 Max 9/TPT Shaft, TEE EX10 Beta 4, 5 wd, PXG 22 HY, Mizuno JPX919F 5-GW, TItleist SM7 Raw 55-09, 59-11, Bettinardi BB39

 

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I am 5'51/2. I replaced the rock shaft with a proforce V5 shaft. I cut the shaft down to 44" It was almost 2 inches cut off. The golf shop put some type of powder in the shaft bring the swing weight back to D3. I make better consistent sweet spot contact now
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  • 3 months later...

Obviously, you're not hitting the ball well or you wouldn't be asking.  If you can't sell the club, chopping it down makes more sense than burying in the garage.  Right now, the toe of the club is way too high.  Cutting it down would help that.  If you think the club is too light, you can always put some lead tape on the club head.  I recommend either on the back for improved MOI or on the heel or toe depending on the shape of your shot.  I'm 5'8" and play a 44" driver.  That's much better than the 45.5 it used to be.  Hit the snot out of it (at times of course).

Driver.......Ping K15 9.5* stiff 3 wood.....Ping K15 16* stiff 5 wood.....Ping K15 19* stiff 4 Hybrid...Cleveland Gliderail 23* stiff 5 - PW......Pinhawk SL GW...........Tommy Armour 52* SW...........Tommy Armour 56* LW...........Tommy Armour 60* FW...........Diamond Tour 68* Putter.......Golfsmith Dyna Mite Ball..........Volvik Vista iV Green Bag..........Bennington Quiet Organizer Shoes.... ..Crocs

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I'm 5'6". I play a 44.5" driver which is 1/2" shorter than it's standard length. If you believe your driver is too long, I would recommend playing a round or two with tape over the last 1/2" of the shaft to remind you to choke up. If you like it, cut off the 1/2". If you feel like the club is too light as a result, add 3-5 grams of lead tape to the head (anywhere on the bottom, it doesn't really matter). If you like the weight of it then but don't like the look of the lead tape, you can probably find a pro-shop that will hot melt it for you with the same weight of hot melt. 

Go slow on the cutting, 1/2" at a time. Grips are cheaper than shafts.

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I would go see a fitter if you know one and seek their recommendation. Each inch is 6 swing weight points, which is 2 grams of head weight that needs to be added for each SW point, or 12 grams.  If you go down to 43" you would have to add 30 grams.  That is best done, IMO, with hot melt or yarn inserted in the head.  

If you have an adjustable hosel, inserting yarn is easy, and you weigh it beforehand.  Just a thought.  

I think my driver shaft is too long, but when playing well I am very happy with my accuracy.  But when I am not, I always think of reducing the club length.

Good luck!

Neglected to add that if you add 30 grams you will alter the flex, reducing the stiffness. That is where a fitter could help!

Edited by Clemsonfan
Added a calculation
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Tiger played his best driver at something like 43.5" or 44" and given he is at least 6 feet tall, I would have to say at 5.5" you really shouldn't play more than a 43" or 43.5".  The thing is standard shaft length is increasing because people are on a distance quest, but am not sure how smart it is to hit a shaft that is too long for you.  Control is compromised, and hitting your second out of rough but 10 yards further is generally bad for your score but gives you an ego boost that you out-drove your playing buddies, even though they wind up with a par to your bogey

What's in the bag

  • Taylor Made r5 dual Draw 9.5* (stiff)
  • Cobra Baffler 4H (stiff)
  • Taylor Made RAC OS 6-9,P,S (regular)
  • Golden Bear LD5.0 60* (regular)
  • Aidia Z-009 Putter
  • Inesis Soft 500 golf ball
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I struggled for years trying to get my driver under control.  I used a lot of 3W tee shots just to stay in play and have a second shot I really swung at instead of just adding to the score.  When I started playing (steel shaft and wooden heads) driver were 43 to 44 inches in length.  I was certainly younger but didn't remember having trouble then staying in play.  So I took an old driver (a Cobra SZ) and shortened it to 44.5 inches.  I has helped immensely.  I don't know or care what swing weight was or is, it works much better for me even if not optimal.  As a result of this experiment I shortened my current driver (Ping G15) to the 44.5 length and got the same results.  I am 6' tall and about 200 Lbs.  I don't seem to have lost any appreciable distance with the club and have gained much in azimuth accuracy off the tee.  So for anyone struggling with driver accuracy I would recommend you give this a try.  Probably not for everyone but certainly did help me.

:-)

Butch

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Shortened my driver shaft this year. Went down to 44.25" after a fitter's recommendation and the club feels much more in control. Probably needed a stiffer shaft as well so it was a win-win. You'll need an abrasive blade if you plan on doing it yourself in the garage.

:callaway: Big Bertha Alpha 815 DBD  :bridgestone: TD-03 Putter   
:tmade: 300 Tour 3W                 :true_linkswear: Motion Shoes
:titleist: 585H Hybrid                       
:tmade: TP MC irons                 
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16 minutes ago, SavvySwede said:

Shortened my driver shaft this year. Went down to 44.25" after a fitter's recommendation and the club feels much more in control. Probably needed a stiffer shaft as well so it was a win-win. You'll need an abrasive blade if you plan on doing it yourself in the garage.

I just used a beat up old hacksaw ?.

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8 hours ago, Golfingdad said:

I just used a beat up old hacksaw ?.

You risk splintering the shaft that way but whatever works.

:callaway: Big Bertha Alpha 815 DBD  :bridgestone: TD-03 Putter   
:tmade: 300 Tour 3W                 :true_linkswear: Motion Shoes
:titleist: 585H Hybrid                       
:tmade: TP MC irons                 
:ping: Glide 54             
:ping: Glide 58
:cleveland: 588 RTX 62

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I don't really like blanket statements but I will make one. If consistent driving is the goal, at least 75% of all golfers with a handicap over say 10-12, would be better off with shaft about 44" and a loft of at least 12*.

Don't just whack your club off though; take it to someone that knows what they are doing, and preferably, replace the shaft instead of just cutting it. That way you can taylor the weight of the shaft to the new total weight of the club.

Aren't weights available for the R1?

Don

In the bag:

Driver: PING 410 Plus 9 degrees, Alta CB55 S  Fairway: Callaway Rogue 3W PX Even Flow Blue 6.0; Hybrid: Titleist 818H1 21* PX Even Flow Blue 6.0;  Irons: Titleist 718 AP1 5-W2(53*) Shafts- TT AMT Red S300 ; Wedges Vokey SM8 56-10D Putter: Scotty Cameron 2016 Newport 2.5  Ball: Titleist AVX or 2021 ProV1

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Cutting down the stock shaft always carries the risk of ruining the feel, to the point where you realize you can't find the center of the face anymore when all you wanted to do is improve in that area and now it's too late.  I recommend buying a second shaft with a tip adapter for your head and making it shorter and heavier than stock with a tip weight or what have you.  Use a club-fitter or buy the shaft, tip, glue, and weight on the 'bay and do it yourself.

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