thomas55

Thanks for posting it. I'm in

Thanks You answred all my questions. Not yet at the level where I would know if I wanted to soft or hard step shafts. I'm really starting to feel the differences between TT S300s and Rifles and right now I'm putting some FST Pro 115 stiff shafts in my (don't laugh) Wilson FC-17 Staffs and pulling out the old TT R300s. I played them in my twenties and just love how they feel. Didn't know anything about equipment back then got them from my dad. Just swung em. At any rate now in my 50s I'm learning about equipment and what I need. Teaching my 8 year old granddaughter how to play and getting my game back in shape after years away from it.

Sorry that didn't answer my question. Aren't all iron shafts the same before they are cut to size to fit whatever club head they go in? Are we talking about how the tip is trimed? Are you saying that a shaft is pulled from a 4 iron and put into a 3 iron? Wouldn't that make the 3 iron short?

I'm looking at some clubs that have been "soft stepped" KBS 6.0 shafts the seller says they are like a 5.8 now. I asked what that means to soft step a shaft and he said you put the 4 into the 3 and 5 into 4 and so on. Help me to understand this better. wouldn't that mean the clubs would be shorter also? Am I missing something? Thanks

Knowledge is power, Get fit with Bridgestone

I am teaching my grandkids how to play golf. It would help my game and in turn help me to teach them about ball striking.Thanks so much for this contest.

I can feel it if I hit off the toe or if I hit it too close to the shaft and I can definitely feel it when I hit one dead center. Sound has nothing to do with it for me as far as irons go. They don't make that much of a sound anyway not like a Driver that's the only time I pay any attention to the sound..

I have some KZG Evolution irons that are too light for me they are a D0 swing weight. My local clubfitter thought I should go with a D4. The shafts are Rifle 6.0 and I always liked the feel of thes clubs very smooth but good ball feel. I also have a set of FG-17 Wilson Staff blades that I wanted to freshen up and use more. So we took a KZG 6 iron and added tungsten powder to the tip and by the way I'm tall so I also had him make the club 3/4" longer so now it's a D4. The Wilson 6 iron head was reshafted with a FST 115 pro shaft. They are already a heavier head so they are around D7. I took the two clubs to the range and now the KZG seems to feel heavy and dead. The feel of the ball on the face is kind of a "thud" they had better feel before I did this. It seems to feel heavier than the Staff iron. The Staff blades are much better I can feel the ball much better on the face and even though they are a heavier swing weight thay feel easier to swing. Seems like I can turn my hands over easier. My question is could the tungsten powder have anything to do with this? Would the powder absorb vibration and reduce feel? Would it change the balance of the head making it harder to turn over? They have the same grips right now so maybe I could put Winn light grips on the KZGs and not do the powder and something heavier on the Wilsons? I haven't played with the Wilsons for many years and maybe it's just that cavity backs will not feel as good as blades. Thanks for any advise.

My reasons....first the cost is staggering Golf Tech wanted me to sign up for a package that would have been $1000.00! Many golf lessons cost way too much when you add that to the cost of trying to play once a week and cost of equipment. One of the first things they wanted me to do was start to cock my wrist at the start of my back swing and that screwed me up for months and made me feel like I would never get it. Later I saw a video keeping the hands quiet on take away and hinging at the top. My point is they made me feel like there was only one way to do it. I would like to find someone to work with I still feel like lessons are something everyone should do. It's not always a new club that will do the trick but a better swing.

I have had a 2010 Burner Superfast stiff factory shaft. I have ben playing with all spring & summer. I liked it at first. It can hit it a mile but now I'm thinking it could be better. My issue with it is that it just feels kind of too whippy and not a great feel for the head. I bought it used and they had put a grip on it that was too heavy so I already put a lighter grip on it. That helped some. The Taylor Made Matrix Ozik shaft is so light the stock shaft is around 45 gr. most shafts I have looked at are 60 to 75 I'm not sure how that will affect it I'm worried about putting something else on it that might really screw it up There are so many Driver shafts I don't know where to start. . . My old driver was a Dynacraft with a Grafaloy Blue shaft and I liked the stable feel it had. I'm 6'5" and swing a driver 100 to 110 any ideas? Maybe the kick point is too low, maybe I should just get it spined? I have seen video on You Tube where they were saying many factory shafts are not very good. Is that something that is true? Thanks

Well I took my Staffs to Golf Stop here in KC and found they are 370 parallel tips. I'm thinking about FST shafts for them. Their golf tech. Melvin who is a really good guy feels like they are very good shafts for the money. He has been a club builder for a long time he's and older guy that seems very practical ( I guess at 56 I am too LOL) My KZGs have Rifle stiff shafts and I like the feel of the step-less designs. Maybe I should ask this question on a different forum but any thoughts on the FST shafts?

WOW! That club pro is an a-hole and not much of a pro. I asked one of my best friends to hit my Burner Superfast once mostly because he plays with really cheap gear and I wanted him to see what he could do with a better club. So that would be on me if he marked it. I don't think I would let someone I didn't know hit it and I wouldn't ask to hit their club I would feel really bad if I put any kind of mark on it. A 910 is $399.00 at Golfsmith!!! So I'd just go someplace and try one if I really wanted one. Even then some places tape them up. A high quality driver just costs too much but I would have no problem letting a friend try out a 60 degree wedge or a putter.

So far the smallest laser pointer I have found is about 2" long and about as fat as a sharpie marker. Did you take one apart or would something that size work?

I have been reading up on spine finders and they look easy to build. I found a site called Clubmaker Online that had some plans 1-1" PVC "T" 2-O.D. 1 3/8" X I.D. 3/4" Radial bearings & 1-O.D. 1 1/8" X I.D. 3/8" Radial bearing the bearings are about $4.00 each and under a dollar for the PVC "T". My hardware store also had precision bearings that were smoother but about $18.00 each I'm not sure if they would be worth the extra money. I have also seen the bearings mounted in a longer PVC pipe as well around 6". There are some on ebay that range from $25.00 to $75.00 some offer some pretty nice looking club building software too. I wonder if anyone has some info on FLOing there is a good page on the Clubmaker site but I can't seem to find much about what kind of laser to use. I have found mini laser pointers but I think it would have to be something smaller that could mount on the end of the shaft. Any ideas on where to find lasers? As long as you are going to build them yourself may as well go all the way and make them the best they can be. I have some heads that I want to reshaft as well I also need stiffer and longer shafts. Here is the link about spines http://clubmaker-online.com/spines.html it is very helpfull.

I have the woods Driver,3 & 4 in pretty good shape and 3 through PW in the irons. This was the set I started with. I want to reshaft them with a bit longer and stiffer modern shaf and have the lofts and lie bent to match my KZGs that I play with now. I feel like thay would be about as good as most new blades one the maeket today once they are put back in shape. Thanks for the advise on the shafts I wasn't sure what size to use.