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Skier

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About Skier

  • Birthday 11/30/1953

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  1. Well, I was playing Nitro balls, and I am such a "great" golfer and they are such great balls that I hit them so far I couldn't find them, and I buy the bright colors :)
  2. I read the threads about balls and most of the fuss is about whether a hard ball that doesn't spin well makes any sense for high handicappers who can't control the spin. I think the point is that for driving and fairway play, the high handicapper is better off without fancy balls that let a pro shape a shot. None of that talks about putting. Given that a high proportion of strokes are putts, what kind of ball makes it easier to putt for a high handicapper?
  3. I teach skiing,and from the feedback I get, both verbal and watching change in performance, I think I am pretty good at it. I certainly like taking clinics from other instructors who teach like I do. My basic approach to teaching (dependent of course on a particular student's stated goals) is to take a particular skill, and to make it a focus of a lesson, but make it a simple skill that is almost all about moving one part of the body, for example flexing and extending the ankles. I get the focus from analyzing the skiers' movement patterns and picking the single action that I think will have the most beneficial impact. I know there are lots of other things to fix, but I like to get one thing right during a lesson, rather than have some shotgun approach that ends up with no permanent change to the skiers. I try to attack this skill through several different activities, always trying my best to make it fun, usually by making a game out of it. I try very hard not to say "don't do that," rather saying "try this," substituting some activity that is mutually exclusive of the undesirable movement, for example, saying try to do all your absorption of the turn forces with your ankles, instead of having them bend their knees. What I would like to find in a golf instructor is someone who can be encouraging, and also be focused on letting me get just one muscle movement pattern improved in a single lesson. How do I find that kind of instructor?
  4. I am tall enough, but contrary to the laws of probability, my arms and legs are short. I am 6'1" but my wrist crease to floor dimension is 38.75". This has all kinds of implications for a golf swing. The answer I prefer is clubs with more upright lies. Such clubs can be relatively short, therefore needing less muscle strength to control. There are also likely a lot of other issues about trying to make my swing effective with such a long torso, but it seems to me the starting point has to be a set of clubs that let me get started well. Three degrees upright and one inch long is a good start. I think the Ping chart which suggests five degrees up and 1/4 inch long has some merit, though. That would be maroon+ and 1/4 inch. http://pinggolf-blob.ping.com/pinggolf/uploadedfiles/custom_fitting/ping_color_code_chart.pdf The previous static fitting a few years back was with their old chart where maroon was five degrees upright.
  5. I got fitted for Pings a couple of years ago. The static fit was maroon and 1/2 inch long. I probably should have gone with that, because I am not a very good golfer. Instead I let them talk me into slightly less upright clubs, slightly longer, after hitting on the range, using face tape. I also got talked into steel shafts. The issue is I am 6'2", but with very short arms and legs. Shorter arms mean the muscles are not as long and therefore not as strong for any particular level of fitness. I am also relatively stiff. I would have been much better served with the more upright clubs from a static fitting, with graphite shafts, and then taking lessons to get my swing in the right place.
  6. Your point about getting in several rounds with the clubs was the one I was trying to make. BTW, I don't know if a demo day can show screwed up clubs, but I know that many skis are not properly tuned at demo days. Volkl and Fischer go way out of their way to be well-tuned on demo days. Some others may not do so well. I bought Pings, but I am very inexperienced, and wanted a very safe choice, especially since I needed good fitting (tall with short arms). perhaps you should get feedback from your instructor, if you take lessons, as to what he thinks about how both clubs match your swing and style.
  7. A thought from skiing: I have noticed that testers seem to prefer skis most like what they ski already. A good ski with a novel feel will get very low ratings. I had such skis a few years back, Salomon Pilots, that had torsional rigidity but were very soft in longitudinal rigidity. Ski testers who were used to racing skis panned them but once I dialed them in they were very good for me. I suspect it may be the same with golf equipment. At a demo day the stuff most like your current stuff feels best, but any good equipment can give good performance once you get used to it.
  8. I have the Karma black and gray velvets on my woods (with two extra wraps), and Ping irons with factory grips (+1/32). They both work just fine.
  9. My clubs are 3* upright, White code, and 1 inch extra in length. The swingweight is D6. I probably could also fit clubs 3.75* upright and 1/2 inch extra length, or 4.5* upright and standard length. The swingweight would change, but I would have some clubs with the same length and lie in each set. My 7 iron would match, in length and lie, the 6 iron in the hypothetical Silver code set and the 5 iron in the hypothetical Maroon code set, The swingweight would probably be D3 in the Silver code set and D0 in the Maroon code set. The question I have is how does the fitter get the length right in choosing among the alternatives?
  10. Ping's color chart is found here: http://www.ping.com/uploadedFiles/Custom_Fitting/PING_Color_Code_Chart.pdf The color codes are .75 degrees apart. Ping's irons are 1/2 inch apart and .75 degrees apart in lie: G15® Iron Specifications Club Length Loft Lie Offset Bounce Swgt. 3 38.75" 20.0° 59.25° .32" -2.0° D0 4 38.25" 23.0° 60.00° .30" 0.0° D0 5 37.75" 26.0° 60.75° .28" 2.0° D0 6 37.25" 29.0° 61.50° .26" 4.0° D0 7 36.75" 32.0° 62.25° .24" 6.0° D0 8 36.25" 36.0° 63.00° .22" 8.0° D0 9 35.75" 40.0° 63.75° .20" 9.0° D0 PW 35.50" 45.0° 64.00° .18" 10.0° D2 UW 35.50" 50.0° 64.00° .15" 11.0° D2 SW 35.25" 54.0° 64.25° .13" 12.0° D4 LW 35.00" 58.0° 64.50° .10" 12.0° D6
  11. Fitting a given length club for lie angle seems pretty mechanical. What seems to me to be more challenging is trading off between lie angle and length. For example, in Ping G10 clubs the Silver code 7 iron at 1 inch over has the same lie angle and length as the White code 6 iron at 1/2 inch over and the same lie angle and length as the Maroon code 5 iron at standard length. The swingweghts will be different, about D6 for the 1 inch over, D3 for the 1/2 inch over and D0 for the standard length (excluding wedges). What makes one combination better than another?
  12. I have played relatively little golf, and I just started taking up lessons, although I had a college class in golf ( a required subject at USAFA). I am only 6'2", with a WTF of at least 38 inches, so for me it seemed to make sense. I ended up with clubs +1" +3* regular stiffness steel shafts, although the Ping chart showed +1/2" +4.5*. I can hit these clubs, but in the past I have really struggled with standard equipment. Now if I can stop delofting all the clubs at impact, I may really learn how to golf. In short, if you show up as having one extreme or the other on a static fitting chart, my guess is that fitted clubs will do you a lot of good in lessons. If you are close to standard, then save your money and just learn better before buying.
  13. wrt to "tipping," what you are asking about is tip trimming. Shafts are thicker at the but end and thinner at the tip end, so the tip end is more flexible. for some shafts the manufacturer has published instructions as to how much of the tip to trim so that as you get a heavier head on the tip, the stiffness remains about the same. These are in tip trimming tables. You might try http://blog.hirekogolf.com/2009/06/download-for-free-our-latest-webinar-basics-of-shaft-installation/ for a lot mroe info.
  14. The measure of winning in golf is the least number of strokes, not the average distance of drives. If the angle of error were to remain constant, then doubling the distance would double the error in yards from intended line of flight. Unfortunately, getting more distance on one's longest drives often involves using a lower loft and a longer club. Lower loft seems to increase the average angle of lateral errors as does getting a longer club. Add to that, using a longer club increases the odds of hitting away from the sweet spot, and using a lower loft increases the consequences of missing the sweet spot. It seems to me that if one maximizes the length of average drive, without paying attention to the potential errors, that one could easily increase the stroke count by getting the driver that has the potential maximum distance based on one's swing. I think an optimum driver would provide a balance between more distance and less dispersion.
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