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dmcnab

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About dmcnab

  • Birthday 09/07/1952

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    Vero Beach, FL

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  • Index: 17
  • Plays: Righty

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  1. Thank you, iacas & Vinsk.....my grip (according to my pro) is fine....I believe that it has something to do with lack of flexibility, but I was hoping that someone out there might have a suggestion about a slip grip change (or, anything) that might overcome the lack of flexibility.....I am going to try the suggestion from Vinsk, but I need some clarification - do you think that the hand-separation could be caused by flying elbow, which is caused by trying to have too much backswing? And, that if I shortened my backswing (say, 75%) that this might alleviate the problem? or, should I make more effort to keep my trail elbow in against my body during the backswing (eg: I have seen suggestions about practicing while holdingwith a towel under each armpit).....??..??
  2. dmcnab

    dmcnab

  3. This topic is old, but perhaps readers are still able to post to it.....has anyone got a good tip on how to keep the hands together? I can set up properly, but when my hands 'come apart' in the back swing, and then re-connect on the downswing, the slightest shift in position changes the face angle (typically, it closes the face a bit and I hit to the left).....I try to counter (or anticipate) this by leaving the club face open a bit when setting up, but that's just a work-around, and I am looking for something better....any suggestions? Thanks
  4. Kenstl....did you pick up your clubs? How do you like them?....I have a set of 1-Iron clubs, but am thinking of getting a set of Sterling clubs....any suggestions?
  5. Thanks, guys, for that info.....I am not having any problem hitting it (my 25 hc is caused by a host of other problems ), but I would like more distance.......at the moment, carry is about 225, but I would like to try for more distance by adjusting the loft (and producing more of an ascending blow)......I originally started with the loft set at about 11degrees (d)....bottom weight was set to neutral.........then, (for some crazy reason) I decided that b/c the Long Drive Competition guys use a very low loft, I should do the same (thinking that I would be hitting 'straight out', rather than 'up'.....I put it at about 9.5d.........that didn't work out......so, I put it back to about 10.5d or 11d, and set the bottom weight to 'fade' (to counteract a tendency to pull the ball)......the 'fade' adjustment works surprisingly well -- nice and straight now.......my next test will be to go to maximum loft (12d with this driver) and see if that helps....my question is posed b/c I can't really find that much info on adjusting the club head...eg: if I add loft, am I closing the club face? Or does that tend to open the club face? And, any suggestions about tee height if I am using maximum loft (12d)?........and, I will take what each of you have already provided (thank you!), and continue the experimenting.
  6. Hi all...I have a TaylorMade SLDR 10.5 degree 460CC driver....I know that the weight on the bottom of the club can be adjusted to promote a fade or a draw, and that the loft can be adjusted.....problem is, that I can't find any info on how much adjustment is possible. How does the loft adjustment work, and how much can I change the loft with each adjustment? And, if (for example) I change the loft, how does that open (or close) the club face...is it all trial-and-error, or does TMade have any info that it puts out there to help with knowing how much to adjust things.....any suggestions or info? Thanks in advance.
  7. Hi golf loungers.....I want to update you about my progress, since my last post of Sun Oct 4th.....I have played a couple of 9 hole rounds and have not impressed myself...I sent an email to David Lake, the man behind the 1-Iron 'single length clubs' that I am using...David has been very helpful in terms of assisting me in adapting to these new clubs. I imagine that anyone using single length clubs may have the same question. I have copied my email to David Lake, and David's reply, into this post, and ask if any of you have any thoughts on the question I raise: On October 10, 2015 at 6:51 PM David J McNab <davidmcnab@shawcable.com> wrote: Hi David….I am still working with my 1-Iron clubs…progress is quite evident when using the driver and fairway woods…..my distance was suffering, until I switched to a baseball grip---this allowed me to get much better wrist hinging, and some ‘snap’ in the wrists….this has really improved my distance, and the accuracy is also very good. Much the same with the woods. Irons are a different matter….I know that you used a wrist-to-floor measurement to build the clubs. It is a matter of geometry, as I understand it. When using the irons, I am still losing distance (and I am comparing apples to apples – my #7 iron is same loft as my #8 Mizuno, but difference in distance is noticeable). I don’t seem to be able to hit the ball crisply and cleanly. When hitting an iron, I place the ball in the center of my stance, as your Playability Tips prescribe. On occasion, I even move it slightly back of center, hoping that this will enable me to hit the ball, then the ground, and strike the ball in the same fashion as low handicappers etc. Many times, whether the ball was centered in my stance, or even a little back of center, I end up hitting it fat….I have also tried moving it slightly forward of center, and I am not sure that this helps either --- I know that it robs me of distance (probably b/c the club is de-lofted by the time it strikes the ball) and it is not a solution to hitting it fat. My question is this: if the club design is based on geometry and if the same geometry is used for everyone (ie: using a W-to-F measure), then shouldn’t that geometry also tell me where to place the ball? Even if I center the ball in my stance, I still need to know how far away from my feet the ball should sit. If I center the ball in my stance, and I draw a line across the front of my toes, should the ball be sitting 12” ‘away’ from that line? Should the ball be 16” or 18”? Shouldn’t the geometry used to figure out club length also dictate the dimensions of a triangle where the base is a line drawn across my toes, and the ‘top’ of the triangle is where the ball should be placed? (that is, where the ball is placed relative to the front of my feet). If I could get this correct, I think that would really help with crisp ball striking using irons. Any suggestions or help is appreciated. As always, thank you. DJM David Lake's reply is as follows: David, On a hard flat surface take your address position and extend your left arm fully so that your left arm and shaft form a straight line from your left shoulder to the ball (roughly, impact position). Then move closer to or farther away from the ball to the point where the scoring lines on the club face are parallel to the ground. This will ensure that you are in the ideal upright address/swing posture as dictated by the 63.5º lie angle of the clubhead. This should give you a very good idea of how far to stand from the ball at address. David Lake, President 1 Iron Golf, Inc.
  8. Hi all...busy with some work this weekend, and poor weather...so, didn't play on the weekend, but hope to get out 2 or 3 times this week....will let you know if my 'new theory' ("baseball grip + Moe Norman swing" combo) still holds water for me......always an experiment !!
  9. Hi guys....here is my update...I took my 1-Iron 7, and added lead weight to it to increase the swing weight, thinking that more mass=greater swing weight, and hence, more distance. I used the 7 iron as my 'experiment' but it didn't work very well......no noticeable increase in distance. Experiment #2: (and I admit that I committed a 'cardinal' sin in doing this), I mixed my 1-Iron driver & fairway woods with my Mizuno irons.....I think that was a mistake, because I had to constantly adjust to a different ball position, and that is very hard to do once you have used the 1-Iron system of 'ball-in-the-center-of-your-stance position. Experiment #3: I returned to using my 1-Iron set of clubs, and played this past Sunday....haven't been playing much and so wasn't expecting much, but on the front 9, I was 19 over (more than double bogie).....on the back 9, I changed my grip (and went back to a baseball grip+using the Moe Norman swing style)......shot 9 over on the back nine....shaved off 10 strokes b/w front and back. .....my theory was that I was losing distance b/c I had no 'snap' in my wrists/swing.....in the past, I have used a baseball grip (with my left thumb down the shaft, so that there is still some sense of both hands being 'one unit') and so I returned to a baseball grip (because it gave me some very nice snap in my wrists) and I sent that ball sailing.....if you can 'hinge' your wrists already, then this is immaterial and won't work for everyone, but using a baseball grip is the only way that I can get my wrists to 'hinge' .......my drives were about 20-25 yds further (and still straight) and my fairway woods and irons were almost back to normal (ie: the same distance that I had with my Mizunos).......I am very eager to play again this weekend and re-test the theory, b/c returning to my baseball grip, and playing the ball from the same spot all the time (as prescribed by 1-Iron) was clearly making it much easier to make good, consistent contact with the ball and some good snap to my swing, for the extra distance that I was missing......here is a link to another 'Moe Norman'-style video clip that explains things, especially in terms of getting 'extension' of the arms that seems to help launch the ball straight....you may have to copy the URL into your browser.... and this is my update and I hope it helps...thank each of you for your interest and help with all of this..... http://moenormangolf.com/ar/sps-webinar-1-replay/
  10. I wondered if if were something like that (ie: I had to have a certain number of posts before I could have a 'signature')....what makes me an 'Established Member' ?
  11. Thank you...this is a test...hhmm...when I click on the 'staple' icon (to insert attachment) it says "You don't have permission to create attachments"......what are the steps to follow if I want to upload a .pdf attachment to a post?
  12. On occasion, I would like to upload a .pdf file with one of my posts....how can I do that? It allows posting of WORD docs, or embedding photos, but doesn't seem to allow .pdf files...any suggestions? Thanks.
  13. Hi all....I am using the 1-Iron set and so far, I really like them (especially the driver and the woods -- I can finally hit these clubs!)...and, I am experimenting with the Moe Norman swing...it seems to be better than 'my' swing (altho that doesn't say much)...here is my lingering question about the 1-Iron clubs: Last year, I bought a custom fitted set of Taylor Made woods & Mizuno 825 irons...this year, I bought the complete 1-Iron set.....when I can achieve comparable shots, the driver and woods seem to perform the same as far as distance goes. However, there is a noticeable difference b/w the respective irons in each set. Obviously, the shaft length differs b/w the 2 sets. All my 1-Irons are 36.75" shafts; my Mizunos range from 38.5" (4 iron) to 35" (SW). The clubfitter (a friend of mine) who sold me the TaylorMade & Mizunos took my 1-Irons (he was curious about them) and did a club-to-club comparison...I have the results (measuring length, loft, lie, CPM and Swing weight) and would upload it with this post if I knew how to do that...anyway, the major difference that he showed me is that the TMade & Mizunos have swing weights in the D2.5 to D3 range........the 1-Irons have swing weights in the C7.5 (driver), C3.5 for 3,5,7 woods down to about C3.5. The difference b/w the loft of the clubs in each set is equal to about 1 club (ie: in terms of loft, my Mizuno 5 iron is 24 degrees and my 1-Iron 4 iron is 23 degrees) and so I use one more club...you would think that the 1-Iron 4 would hit about as far as the Mizuno 5, but it doesn't come close. My Mizuno 7 flew 150 yds; my 1-Iron 7 flies about 125. I need to use my 1-Iron 4 to hit it 150 yds.....I am interested in people's thoughts as to whether the big difference in swing weights could explain this, and if so, how can I change the swing weights of my 1-Iron clubs to more closely equal the s/weights of my Mizuno irons? It seems to me that the difference in distance is due, in part, to loft differences, but also due to the difference in swing weights (mass?) and that an iron with more 'mass' would impart more force, and therefor, more distance...any thoughts?...and if you know how to upload a .pdf attachment, please let me know and I will upload my comparison chart...I am going to try, but if it doesn't work, that's why. Thanks.
  14. Same here....assuming that we are all talking about using single length irons, I find that the driver and woods perform much better than my other set (the custom fitted Taylor Made woods and Mizuno 825 irons), and the 3-8 (or maybe 3-9) irons also perform better...it is the 9-SW that I have trouble with -- always seem to end up left of target. I did read somewhere that the greater the loft on a club, the more the clubface will close, and I am wondering if that is what is causing so many of my shots to pull to the left? I played 9 holes this afternoon and I did experiment with the Moe Norman/Bryson DeChambeau (see my reference to Golf Channel videos on this topic) stance and setup -- and was pleasantly surprised to see that my accuracy improved and so did my distance.....noticeable enough to warrant some more experimentation on the range and out on the course, but using DeChambeau as my reference point seems to be a very good place to start. I didn't keep my score, but simply played thru 9 holes, practicing this new setup etc and it was better than I hoped for.....think I need a 'real' lesson, especially on alignment, b/c as I start to improve my ball striking, poor alignment and shots that end up off course are starting to undo any other kind of general 'improvement'...any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.............PS: on Tuesday, I am going to see a guy (in Jupiter, FL) about mounting my 1-Iron titanium driver clubhead (I bought a 2nd clubhead) on a graphite shaft, and will also have a chance to measure and compare distances b/w my 'old' clubs and my 'new' 1-Irons....will report back on that if there is anything worthwhile to share.
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