I just ordered some new SM11 wedges and I want to sell my old ones that 3 of them are in great condition. Does anybody knows a good place to sell them?

So, I did that. First, I tried my wife's Lady clubs on a Par 3 and was shocked at the score. I measured. Orange Dot. Score dropped 10 strokes the following week (43 on 9 holes). I was excited.
I traded the Callaway X-18s for 2 sets of clubs: Harvey Penick Take Dead Aim, and Titleist CB690s.

I cut the Titleist CB690s down half an inch and regripped them. Started playing with them, and wow, I started hitting better than the Ping Eye 2s (more distance, same or better accuracy).
I didn't hit well with the Harvey Penicks, so they have sat in a box. I have considered pulling them back out.

Finally, I decided to try Blades. Felt like this was the year because I might be aging out of them.
I bought a used set of Par Ace Tour Blades for $50 off FB Marketplace. There is a 1 iron all the way down to Sand Wedge. They seem heavy (maybe it just seems heavier due to the 2 extra clubs, the 1 & 2).
I took the blades in, and had them bent (2 degree flatter, or lower, per club). This makes them match the Ping Orange Dot lie angles.
Played with the blades last Summer and Fall. They're accurate! If you can hit consistently in middle of club, which I do, they do quite well. But they seem to cost me a lot of distance - at least 10 yards per club.

I was thinking of completing a full 2026 with these blades, but after going to Top Golf for a virtual round, I noticed I was getting smoked on the distance, and am now re-thinking which clubs, of the ones I have, would be best to play with.

So now, I am wondering...if you had these sets to choose from, which set would YOU choose?
- Ping Eye 2
- Titleist CB690
- Blades (Par Ace Tour Blades)
- Harvey Penick Take Dead Aim

.... and yes, at some point, I will probably get more current and get a nicer newer set. But for now, this is what I have to choose from.

My 7i swing speed is around 92 mph and my average score is around 85-88 just to give you an idea.

If I order the True Temper shafts, it's 4-6 weeks but they are calling Taylormade Monday to confirm timeline. If I order the KBS shaft, I get them in less than a week.

Is one shaft better than the other for the average golfer? If there is really no difference, I'll go with the KBS shaft so I can get them sooner and begin practicing before season really picks up. But, if the True Temper is just that much better, I'll go with them and wait it out.

Thoughts or opinions?

I was recently fit into the Ping G440 LST, I currently game the Nike Vapor Fly Pro with a 55-gram stiff shaft (still love it). However, it's about time for an upgrade, I got fit into either the Ping Alta Blue CB 55-S or the Ventus Blue 5-S TR. My swing speed is about 110 Mph and tempo is relatively smooth. I really enjoyed how smooth the TR was with spin being more consistent between 2000-2400; while the Alta was 1700-2600, the spin being the only major difference I noticed. Are upgrade shafts (specifically the TR line) worth the cost difference? Thanks for any help.

TL;DR Are upgrade shafts worth it?

Currently gaming Titleist 910H Hybrids
3H (19 degree)
4H (21 degree)
Both regular shaft.
I do not find either of them easy to hit. They feel heavy and not very forgiving. For instance, I had to adjust both of them to draw bias just to get a decent shot out of them (Usually low burners, that still leak to the right).
I am playing them because they were my father's.  When he passed I figured it would be nice to have something of his in the bag, not to mention Titleist was probably a "better" club than my previous hybrid set up. Not to mention they were the same name brand club and the superstitious part of my brain believes consistency helps my game.

My previous set up was:
3H  PXG 0211 (19 degree stiff)
4H taylormade burner (21 degree reg)

With the way my game works, I only need the hybrid to basically eat up distance 215  or 200 yards. This is usually the second shot on long par 5s.

So I am thinking of trading the Titleist in for something more forgiving. 
Maybe just use a 4hybrid and put a 3W back in the back.
Maybe just play Drive to 4 Hybrid.
Weighting all options.

Is anyone else absolute insane about not mixing brands of gear in your bag? Making all your clubs from 1 manufacturer?

And can anyone recommend  a forgiving 3H or 4H?
people keep saying Ping 425 or 430.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

For the first time in I don't know how many years, they have come out with new clubs. From what I read, Maxfli was bought by Taylor Made a long time ago which then took all of their ball making technology and patents in order to get into that market. The club business was left to whither and the reorganized company, now a part of Dicks / Golfworks / Maltby, is producing these new clubs. (Their Tour X balls which I play are really good.)

Anyway, I tried them both out at Golf Galaxy. There's a player's distance iron (XC-3) and a blade (XC-2) and both feel really, really nice, almost "Mizuno-like" in their soft buttery feel and they're a bargain at $800 for a set. I'm planning to ditch my Titleist's and want to go back to a forged iron. I almost pulled the trigger on the Mizuno Pro-245's last summer, but a damaged tendon sheath in my finger combined with a back injury messed up my golf game so I held off. Now the Pro-245's are no longer available, soon to be replaced by the MX-15. (At twice the price of the Maxfli's...that's what got my attention in the first place.)

If anyone has played with the new Maxfli's or just tried them out like I did, let me know what you think.

I guess my general question is if they're too good a club for me.  I fluctuate between an 8 and a 14 index in the past  years (took a 5 month break), I'm a shorter but "more accurate" player when comparing myself to others w/ similar indexes (swing regular shafts, 7i- 145 yards, Driver 240 yards w/roll).  I do like to shape shots, but wouldn't say I'm particularly good/consistent at it.

Was just considering if I go out and by a set of giant cavity backs, if I'll play better at this stage.

Just soliciting thoughts, as I have no intention of spending the $ on a club fitting (unless ya'll convince me otherwise).

Thanks

Intended change:

Driver:

Switching to Tensei White x-flex one inch shorter which I suppose would be 44,5? Changing heel weight to 18g. Changing grip to Golf Pride Z-grip cord midsize. Change hosel setting to standard draw.

FW3:

Changing heel weight to 16g (apparently not available in FW weights, but supposed to be something called "internal weight" a club builder can add which fits between the weight and the screw?). Change grip to Golf Pride Z-grip cord midsize. Changing hosel setting to standard +1.

The goal is to 1) get better grip since I tend so lose grip in warm and moist conditions with the current grips and 2) mitigate the misses to start more straight with less side spin.

Also considering adding the Cobra Ltdx LS FW5 instead of my old Taylormade R9 and getting 14g heel and 6g toe weights with the same grip as the others and hosel setting standard +1.

All of the above is based on conversations with ChatGPT and, as everyone knows, it can come up with pretty much whatever but I spent a few hours asking about different perspectives etc and this was the recommendation.

So, my question is basically, does it make any sense?

Thanks.

My shafts are .355 taper and the 4 iron had a non-matching ferrule to the rest of the set.  Which is why I started down this road. What I found on my 4 iron was that it most definitely was a universal bore, and one I particularly disliked. The bottom of the bore has a very short and steep tapered section for centering .355 taper shafts. However, the top of the hosel is very loose regardless of .355 or .370 shaft. My final conclusion was that the bottom is centered by that short, tapered section, where the .370 shafts become VERY tight and the top section is not centered at all UNLESS using a collared ferrule that is a tight fit into the recess on the hosel.

On a .370 shaft I would trust this gap under the collared ferrule using shafting beads. But on a .355 shaft I would not trust this rather large gap to just globing a lot of epoxy, even with shafting beads. The frustrating part is that normal .355 to .370 shims do not work well as they are to tight at the bottom and to lose at the top. My solution was to fashion some aluminum shims that sit just under the ferrule but only extended down about 3/4 inch. However, fashioning these shims was a total PITA!

So far, this experience has made me not want to consider and/or buy any further Cobra products. However, yesterday I took the 5 and 7 iron to the range and I can say that it was a more than pleasant experience, so my opinion on Cobra has been considerably mitigated by that! On the downside, the reason I did not take a 6 iron was because it is making snapping sounds and from putting it in a vise, I can tell it is from the head coming lose from the shaft. My suspicion is that the person who mangled the 4 iron job also had a hand in the 6 iron situation. The troubling part being the uncertainty of it all. I really, really do not want to have the experience of launching an iron head down the fairway along with the ball!

Finally, I have to say that the report that the Pro version is .355 taper might be correct. My set is a flow set, so potentially the muscle back only version may be .355 while my flow irons are universal, yet another unknown.

My oldest is now 16 and earlier this last summer he has become kind of obsessed with the game.  We got him a membership to the local driving range / par 3 course so he plays or practices 2-4 times a week.  He has not had any lessons or anything yet, so he's kind of teaching himself.  He is using the clubs his grandpa bought him last year - just a standard men's size beginner set from PGA Superstore.  The reason I'm asking this question is because of his size - he is 6-3 with long legs - and so I am wondering; is he going to set himself up with bad habits based on ill-fitting clubs, or is this something I needn't stress about at this stage?  Here is a pic of him at address and seeing this is what made me wonder:

What do you all think?  I'm hoping the answer is, "you're silly, he's fine" because I'm not ready to buy him more clubs yet.  Thanks all, and good to be back!!

Shafts droop when you swing them because the center of mass, which is OFF the shaft, tries to line up with the line of the center of the shaft, in the same way that if you tie a rock to the end of a rope and swing it around your head, the rope is pulled tight.

The amount of droop is determined by: 

1. The speed at which the club is swung.
2. Shaft stiffness/design.
3. Weight of the clubhead.
4. Distance from the center of mass from the centerline of the shaft.

As you can see, this changes the effective lie angle of the club and this changes where the clubface is actually pointing (in the same way that the clubface points farther left when the ball is above your feet and right when it's below your feet). Here's a video:

You're commonly fit for a 7-iron, and the lie angle, shaft, etc. are fit to deliver a pretty flat (sole) at impact. (Side note: this, and the fact that most golfers return the handle higher up at impact than at setup, is why I never really care too much if the club is slightly toe-up at setup).

Lower numbered irons are longer and flatter, while higher numbered irons are shorter and more upright. This makes sense if you consider it in a vacuum (or at 0 MPH, like at setup), but what my friend has discovered is that longer irons droop more and shorter irons droop less.

So, his theory is basically this: almost every club should be fit at the same lie angle to deliver a neutral lie angle at impact. He also said he thinks that lie angle is often about 60° because you'd rather have it be slightly toe down than heel down, particularly out of the rough.

He said that he finds that a lot of better players will miss their longer irons to the right (more droop means the face points right and is more toe down) and their shorter irons left (less droop means the face points left with the toe more up).

Again, his recommendation is not to change the length of your clubs, but just to change the lie angle: your long irons will be more toe up (so when they droop "extra" they're level) and your short irons will be more toe down (so that when they droop less they'll also be level).

With GEARS, you can put a 3I, 6I, and 9I in someone's hands and have them make the same swing, and the system will tell you with research-grade accuracy what the dynamic lie angle of the club is at impact. He's seen a LOT of these swings, and sees this pattern repeating. He says that club makers and fitters and instructors are missing out here.

I think I've done his theory some justice. Whaddya think?

P.S. The data in this chart would be useful: https://thesandtrap.com/forums/topic/64131-effects-of-lie-angle-on-varying-degrees-of-loft/.

P.P.S. I'm happy to give the "friend" credit if he wants it, but I haven't asked yet, so I'm leaving it vague for now.

I had to explain multiple times that I had quite a few rounds of ugly tee shots, topping the ball or nasty low burning duck hooks.

Now that I have that all straighten out I am left with stats e bring my averages down, especially the driver.
I reset the stats to the beginning when I get a new club, but really feel that a "warts and all" tells the entire story.

Looking for advice from any stat geeks. 
Do you record all shots or just the decent ones?
Do you reset when your swing hits its stride or record early season rounds?

Je suis à la recherche d'une pièce en plastique dur qui se trouve dans la continuité du manche sous la tête de club.

Merci pour vos infos : nom de la pièce et ou en trouver.

Ps : pièce noir au dessus de la marque Wilson 

Bien à vous.

Thanx

😉

This will be interesting…

Maybe I'm oversimplifying this, but it seems to me, your hands are holding the putter. So, it isn't going to spin when you swing it. The ball isn't that heavy so as to overpower my hands when I don't hit it dead center. If the ball was so heavy as to overpower my hands when I don't hit it dead center, than certainly it would be heavy enough to overpower the lie-angle balance, right? 

Don't get me wrong. I like the demo. It's something they can show people and say "Look our putter is different." But the more I think about it the less I think this feature matters. 

I have an open mind, however. 
Let me know if there's really a benefit to this that I just don't understand. 

I would be grateful for views on the following options that are cheap and I like the look of: Ping Rapture V2 10.5 degrees regular TFC 939 shaft, Ping Anser 9.5 degrees regular and Ping G20 10.5 degrees Alta 55g regular.