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Posted
I recently got a Vokey Oil Can 60.08 that I like as far as the fairway shot goes. However, it is not very versatile on hardpan, hard bunkers, flop shots, and other tight lies. The flange is very long and there is no relief in the heel or toe. I have been looking at different wedge grinds and it looks to me like the C grind and the M grind are what I am looking for. They relieve some area from the back of the flange, the heel, and the toe. So here are my questions:

-What are the differences between a C grind and an M Grind?
-Are these grinds a good option to make my wedge more versatile?
-Where are some places that I can get something like this done?

Monster Tour 10.5* w/ Redboard 63
FP400f 14.5* w/ GD YSQ
Idea Pro 18* w/ VS Proto 80s
MP FLi-Hi 21 w/ S300
CG1 BP w/ PX 6.0 SM 54.11 SM 60.08 Sophia 33"


Posted
  Crafty said:
I recently got a Vokey Oil Can 60.08 that I like as far as the fairway shot goes. However, it is not very versatile on hardpan, hard bunkers, flop shots, and other tight lies. The flange is very long and there is no relief in the heel or toe. I have been looking at different wedge grinds and it looks to me like the C grind and the M grind are what I am looking for. They relieve some area from the back of the flange, the heel, and the toe. So here are my questions:

i guess it comes down to personal preferencen and what works well for you!

personally > i like minimal grind on my PW and LW, but i recently ground down my 56 degree from 12 degrees to 5 degrees to bring it into line with my other two vokeys (see signature.) - i ground it myself at my friends dad's engineering workshop with a low-grit grinder. it took me 5 mins.
Driver: Callaway Diablo Edge Tour 10.5* (UST Proforce v2 77g X Flex) 3 Wood: Callaway Diablo 15* (UST Proforce v2 86g S Flex). 2 Hybrid: Adams A4 Tech 17* (UST Proforce v2 105g S Flex). 3 and 4 Hybrid: Adams Idea Pro 20* and 23* (UST Proforce v2 105g S Flex)
Irons: Tour Edge Exotics...

Posted
I think it's funny that it seems like grinding a wedge is such mysterious art and science. Just get rid of the part that gets in the way. Our local course gets very hard sometimes and the heel of my 60 had to go away to be able to open the face and get under the ball. I just used a bench grinder (dipping in water so as not to overheat)to get rid of the bulk of it, a belt sander to smooth out the curve, and a flap wheel disk on a 4 1/2 inch side grinder to finish it out. If you want it to shine you can go to a buffing wheel next but I figured that it wouldn't shine for long anyway so stopped with the flap wheel. Of course I had these tools anyway.
It just took a few minutes. The longest amount of time was spent changing the wheel on the little sidegrinder.

Note: This thread is 6357 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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