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Cplax92

Driver Fitting Questions

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To start off I’m a high handicapper who’s never broken 100 and suffer from a decent push-slice with the occasional pin straight bomb and yes I’ve taken lessons. 

So I went for a driver fitting today(given as a gift) and was fit for a m6 d-type with a Tensei orange ck 60 stiff. Now I didn’t actually hit any good shots with this club but was making better general contact on the face. My path was surprisingly in to out but I couldn’t get the face to rotate unless my path became out to in in which case now I was hitting an even bigger pull hook. 

I did not purchase the driver because I didn’t see any drastic improvement except more consistent contact, but I did love the feel of the shaft compared to my current shaft in my driver which I feel like I lose the club with. Would it be fair to say that most draw biased heads(rogue draw, m4 dtype, G400 sft) would be fine with the same shaft? We didn’t look at spin rates or smash factor or anything of the sort just because I guess he figured it wasn’t entirely necessary at this point(fair). 

P.S my swing speed hovered around 105 and he said I hit the ball far too steep, like -6 degrees so that was killing my contact also. 

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The Tensei orange is a low-mid launch shaft, I'm not an expert but if you're hitting the ball with a steep swing I think that shaft would hurt you more than it would help you, but I could be wrong.

I have the same shaft in a Ping G410 and absolutely love it, but i also have a high launch, which this shaft helps to keep the ball flight down.  I think the shaft would be fine in any other driver head as long as it's the right one for your swing.

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So I guess you didn’t try any draw biased drivers during your fitting?

If that would have helped and made a sale, I would think the fitter would have gone that route.

It sounds like you are getting too inside... inside-out swing, push-slice, no rotating club head.  Draw bias is supposed to “help” to reduce a slice, usually from an out to in swing.

If you are not going to work on your swing, get the most adjustable driver you hit pretty well so you can move the weighting as things evolve.

John

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34 minutes ago, 70sSanO said:

So I guess you didn’t try any draw biased drivers during your fitting?

If that would have helped and made a sale, I would think the fitter would have gone that route.

It sounds like you are getting too inside... inside-out swing, push-slice, no rotating club head.  Draw bias is supposed to “help” to reduce a slice, usually from an out to in swing.

If you are not going to work on your swing, get the most adjustable driver you hit pretty well so you can move the weighting as things evolve.

John

I believe the m6 dtype is draw biased which is the only head I tried. Truth be told I’ve recently been working on closing the face via flatter lead wrist on the back swing and oddly enough positioning my right thumb off the left side of the shaft and I guess during the fitting I kind of just forgot all of that. 

I’ve been eyeing the g410 with movable weight as it has the Tensei as a stock option 

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If you have a strong fade/slice you might want to try the Cobra F-Max offset driver. I too am a high handicapper and have fought a strong fade my entire life, yes I have taken lessons but... I found the F-Max helps a lot. Some people may call it a crutch but until you can hit a driver straight you may need all the help you can get. I have a number of drivers, e.g., Ping G, Callaway Classic, both of which I can't hit straight but the F-Max keeps the ball in play, (most of the time). At least give it a look. I'm not up on shafts so I use the one that comes standard with the driver but my swing speed is down around 90. (I'm 68 and have had three back surgeries so I have lost a lot of speed). For what it is worth, the shaft I have is the "Cobra Superlite 50 Mid Flex Point Regular Flex. With your swing speed you may need to go to a different stiff flex shaft.

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