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Does Moving Weights to 'Draw' Position in the M5 Driver Effective in Fighting a Slice?


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I have a used M5 driver with the weights set for maximum forgiveness. The seller didn't have the key to adjust the weights. I just want to know if moving weights to "draw" position in the M5 driver effective in fighting a slice before investing in a key? I know it is a band aid fix but I have tournaments coming up and anything helps at this point. 

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1 hour ago, khalespace said:

I have a used M5 driver with the weights set for maximum forgiveness. The seller didn't have the key to adjust the weights. I just want to know if moving weights to "draw" position in the M5 driver effective in fighting a slice before investing in a key? I know it is a band aid fix but I have tournaments coming up and anything helps at this point. 

It can have some effect depending on what is causing the slice, but it is minimal. Best advice is to try it out at the range.

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1 hour ago, khalespace said:

I have a used M5 driver with the weights set for maximum forgiveness. The seller didn't have the key to adjust the weights. I just want to know if moving weights to "draw" position in the M5 driver effective in fighting a slice before investing in a key? I know it is a band aid fix but I have tournaments coming up and anything helps at this point. 

In my experience, no. I was a pretty bad slicer at one point, and no amount of adjustment was capable of overcoming my face to path swing issues. These were corrected with lessons/practice.

That said, adjustment may give you some modest improvement to ball flight, and if you are playing in a tournament, there's probably no harm done by making the adjustments. It's also nice to have the adjustment wrench handy just in case you find you have a weight or hosel sleeve loose during a round.

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2 hours ago, khalespace said:

I have a used M5 driver with the weights set for maximum forgiveness. The seller didn't have the key to adjust the weights. I just want to know if moving weights to "draw" position in the M5 driver effective in fighting a slice before investing in a key? I know it is a band aid fix but I have tournaments coming up and anything helps at this point. 

Just buy a cheap Torx screwdriver at Harbor Freight.  Take your driver in to make sure it fits.  Ignore customers telling you you're a long way from the golf course, must've hit quite the slice...

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16 minutes ago, Double Mocha Man said:

Just buy a cheap Torx screwdriver at Harbor Freight.

I've often wondered about this - in a pinch, I've used my Titleist wrench on my Cobra driver, or any combination of wrenches/clubs. Do these branded torx-tip adjustment wrenches use a specific torque suited to the brand's hosel adapter and weights or are they just designed to make sure we don't overtighten and gall the threads?

Maybe @Adam C knows...

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They’re all basically the same. I think it’s 17 foot pounds of torque.

Or 40 inch pounds, or something. Anyway, they’re all about the same.

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16 hours ago, iacas said:

They’re all basically the same. I think it’s 17 foot pounds of torque.

Or 40 inch pounds, or something. Anyway, they’re all about the same.

Correct. They are all basically set to 40 psi. Only times they aren't are with the old Taylormade wrenches from the cylinder movable weight days. Those were set to 30. They would still work I would guess without issues. However the 40s did cause issues with the cylinder weights back then.

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My previous driver was a Callaway xr16, which was a very good driver for me. Whenever I tried adjusting to the draw position for some reason my drives went horrible. I would pull hook drives, have problems getting elevation on my drive, maybe it was all in my head or whatever but I just couldn't hit my driver in the draw bias setting. When I put it back into the neutral setting everything was great. My new Maverick Max driver I initially put it in the neutral setting and have never changed it out of that because of past experience, and it works so well for me as is. If I have driving issues I would try to work it out at the range or get some coaching and leave the adjustment in neutral. I really don't like that kind of attempt of getting help by adjusting a driver out of neutral.

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On 5/14/2021 at 11:36 AM, khalespace said:

I have a used M5 driver with the weights set for maximum forgiveness. The seller didn't have the key to adjust the weights. I just want to know if moving weights to "draw" position in the M5 driver effective in fighting a slice before investing in a key? I know it is a band aid fix but I have tournaments coming up and anything helps at this point. 

Besides being able to adjust the weights the torque tool should give you the ability to adjust the loft a bit up or down, as well. You can get one from ebay for $5.00 or so.

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I have the M3 and the answer is no. You can hit just as wicked a slice with the slider set to "Draw" as you can hit a massive hook with it set to "Fade". (That's why I keep mine in the middle.) As others have said it's all about club head path and face angle at impact.

At the big box golf stores, if you ask nicely, the may just give you a wrench. (At least at Golf Galaxy they did for me.) They have tons of them in the back.

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I moved the weights to the draw position and it helped a little bit. It is hard to quantify but maybe 5 yard. Of course I am working on improving my swing path.

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On 5/14/2021 at 2:36 PM, khalespace said:

I have a used M5 driver with the weights set for maximum forgiveness. The seller didn't have the key to adjust the weights. I just want to know if moving weights to "draw" position in the M5 driver effective in fighting a slice before investing in a key? I know it is a band aid fix but I have tournaments coming up and anything helps at this point. 

From a certain website...

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It moves the CG 1.7 mm or 0.07 inches.  

Really, its insignificant. I think it is mostly a feel thing if anything, or pure marketing. I think the hosel adjustment does more than shifting weights for a draw or fade bias. What can change the ball flight is moving weight more forward on the clubhead. That will lower launch and spin rates noticeably. 

 

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If you have a "fade", then weighting and Lie angle will help straighten things up a bit. But if you "slice" from an over the top out to in path... then no. 

EVERY manufacturer will use a perfect robot swing to determine what the settings will do. Which doesn't translate to the real world. Unless you're Moe Norman or something.

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On 5/14/2021 at 3:36 PM, khalespace said:

I have a used M5 driver with the weights set for maximum forgiveness. The seller didn't have the key to adjust the weights. I just want to know if moving weights to "draw" position in the M5 driver effective in fighting a slice before investing in a key? I know it is a band aid fix but I have tournaments coming up and anything helps at this point. 

It really depends on how much of a fade/slice you want to correct.  If your slice is 40 yards or so with a driver (and believe me, I have seen and played with such guys), the answer is adjusting weights or hitting a draw biased driver cannot do enough to correct it.  If it is a 5 yard slice then the weights can help.  Like somebody mentioned above, an over the top swing, especially something excessive cannot be corrected with technology band aid fixes

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38 minutes ago, pganapathy said:

It really depends on how much of a fade/slice you want to correct.  If your slice is 40 yards or so with a driver (and believe me, I have seen and played with such guys), the answer is adjusting weights or hitting a draw biased driver cannot do enough to correct it.  If it is a 5 yard slice then the weights can help.  Like somebody mentioned above, an over the top swing, especially something excessive cannot be corrected with technology band aid fixes

The fade/slice is about 20 yards. I see a small amount of improvement with the weights in the draw position. Obviously I need to fix the out to in swing. I am using a club head cover and place it on the right side and outside of the ball. I also try to shortened the backswing and have a glove under my right armpit. I notice with the longer backswing I tend to pull and slice. The shorter backswing helps a lot but I tend to revert back to the longer backswing on the course for some reasons.

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17 minutes ago, khalespace said:

The fade/slice is about 20 yards. I see a small amount of improvement with the weights in the draw position. Obviously I need to fix the out to in swing. I am using a club head cover and place it on the right side and outside of the ball. I also try to shortened the backswing and have a glove under my right armpit. I notice with the longer backswing I tend to pull and slice. The shorter backswing helps a lot but I tend to revert back to the longer backswing on the course for some reasons.

Truth be told, the draw bias setup will only help diminish the slice since your issue is clearly an over the top swing.  For the short term, invest in the tools and set up the driver to be as draw biased as possible.  It will help diminish the slice to some extent.  But long term, you really need to fix the swing to get it to a fade, straight or draw.  Currently you are slicing it, not fading it 🤨

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