'Golf' Epoxy vs Regular Epoxy

[LBlack14]

Countersink? What company do you work for?

[Crey23]

Oh our clubs get hot when taking them apart because it does take a lot of heat to break down the epoxy, but i would rather have the head securely on there instead of using something thinking that i will have to be re shafting in the future and use something not as strong. We do have to worry about shaft and paint of the club, but like i said if your careful and good at what you do, this shouldn't be an issue. As far as glue flexibility, we ALWAYS counter sink our heads before either making new clubs or re shafting them because most club manufacturers over in china don't have the time or take the time to do that and that gives the shaft very little wiggle room inside the hosel.

Please explain this.....I have a counterfeit drive (TM Burner '07) and for the fun it, i'd like to have it around, but my head fell off ( more like flew off) after it was done at a local shop. I've lost the receipt, and really don't want to spend the extra $10 to $15 bucks to have it re-shafted.....

[lcfd42]

Countersink? What company do you work for?

I think what he is talking about doing is taking some more material out of the hosel. Not in diameter but in depth, so as to add additional surface area between the shaft and clubhead for adhesive bonding.

[LBlack14]

There is a hosel plug at the bottom to keep stuff like dried epoxy out of the head. That makes no sense, the weren't designed to be counter sunk. There are "standard bore", "blind bore" and "deep bore" hosels and the majority are standard. Below the hosel plug in SB hosels they're hollow for the most part. I am speaking about driver heads.

[lcfd42]

LBlack14, I could only assume what he was talking about. I am by no means a club maker or anything close. I am though a gunsmith and machinist by trade. I have used many of that same epoxies, powder coatings, and other products in my line of work that are used in the club making industry as well.
Ther is another thing he may be doing as well, removing the hosel plug and increasing the diameter of the opening there slightly making the lower end of the shaft with epoxy larger than the opening in the hosel itself (similar to an inverted cone) creating a wedge effect making it much more difficult fo a shaft to pull out. But we can only assume this since he does not elaborate any further.

[LBlack14]

I wasn't getting on Ya and sorry if it sounded that way.

I understand what you're saying, but creating a void then using epoxy to fill it is asking for failure. Constant bashing will cause the epoxy to turn to dust and eventually fail.

I used to be in the gun business when I was young. I worked at a BIG gun shop in Ft. Lauderdale Fla. back in 1986 & '87 and did a little bit of everything. Still have a few that I bought back in those days.

[basesloaded190]

Ok im not trying to avoid anything here. So it goes. I work for a small company called Bob Burns Golf. We have been making a designing our own clubs for 25 years now. We recieve our clubs from California after they have been made overseas. When we get the clubs in this is the process we take: We take the new club heads and give them a quick counter sink on the drill press. Im not talking about standing there for 10 mins, but more like 10-25 secs per club MAX. We do this a bit similar, but not the same as this: http://images.nailsmag.com/articles/...Cone-UNC-3.jpg
The reason we do this because the heads that we reveive don't give the shaft any room to wiggle. With a quick counter sink we can give the shaft more room to move inside the hosel, thus giving us a significant less chance of the club head sheering off from the shaft. That's the main reason we do that. We can avoid less breakage while not compromising a thing. Hope that helps guys.

[johnnyyooper]

as a follow up, i found out there was a Golfsmith not too far away so i went with the golf expoxy. i like the fact it takes a long time to set up and it does seem less brittle than regular epoxy. of course, while there i bought a few other items i could have lived without. ha ha. someday, i will experiment with a throwaway club just to see how well regular epoxy works.
but, my original post was based on my cynical outlook. i figured epoxy was epoxy and 'they' get away with charging more for it by giving it a special use label. its not just epoxy, its golf epoxy! but, actually, it wasnt that expensive becasue $8.99 buys enough to do more than a hundred clubs. a few years ago, i was looking for some sports tape to cover a 'blister' than develops on one of my fingers when i hit too many golf balls. i went to the pharmacy area of walmart and found a roll for like $4. then i stopped by the sporting goods dept and found the same type and amount of tape for like $3. i just got the feeling the medical tape was more expensive just becasue it was in the medical dept. i'm sure it all came from the same factory, just a different label. ha ha, i got a bad attitude!

[putstoy]

I have 12 mini golf clubs to put rubber heads onto metal shafts. Is there an epoxy I should use? Will golf epoxy work on metal shafts or just fiber shafts?

 

[arturo28mx]

I have used Gorilla epoxy on many clubs with no issues and I have read about many people using Gorilla epoxy on many clubs with no issues. Only thing is it does require a bit more heat than golf epoxy to break down if you ever want to remove the shaft. Gorilla epoxy is not brittle. It is somewhat rubbery.