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I have 2 questions that i clearly should know the answer to. first of all i have been hitting the ball very very high ever since i got rid of my x460 tour and i have been hitting the ball so terribly off the tee.
does anyone know what the stock weights come in an r9 and what would be the most weight i could put into a stiff 65g re-ax stock shaft without having the club head lag.
second why do the newer drivers hit the ball with close to no power it seems like with all the new technology they should go farther but they really don't go anywhere? does anyone know why
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second why do the newer drivers hit the ball with close to no power it seems like with all the new technology they should go farther but they really don't go anywhere? does anyone know why

This is a player issue, not a driver issue. You need to work on your technique. The other possibility is that you are using a shaft that is totally wrong for you, which is not very likely for a 1 marker.

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This is a player issue, not a driver issue. You need to work on your technique. The other possibility is that you are using a shaft that is totally wrong for you, which is not very likely for a 1 marker.

i broke my driver 2 days before a tournament and they dont make my shaft anymore. i hasvent had the money to get fitted again. iv been hitting 4 wood because i hit it as far as most people hit their drivers so it has actually helped my score because my 4 wood is so much more accurate. i just played with my friend who is a pro and he couldnt find a problem with my swing and we compared it with the swing from my other driver and it was almost identicle so its not a swing issue considering im hitting 66% of greens this year

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i broke my driver 2 days before a tournament and they dont make my shaft anymore. i hasvent had the money to get fitted again. iv been hitting 4 wood because i hit it as far as most people hit their drivers so it has actually helped my score because my 4 wood is so much more accurate. i just played with my friend who is a pro and he couldnt find a problem with my swing and we compared it with the swing from my other driver and it was almost identicle so its not a swing issue considering im hitting 66% of greens this year

You're obviously too good for the drivers they make nowadays. They only make drivers for people who can hit their 3 wood as far as most players and up to a 50% GIR max.

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You're obviously too good for the drivers they make nowadays. They only make drivers for people who can hit their 3 wood as far as most players and up to a 50% GIR max.

or instead of being sarcastic you could try to help... maybe you have some idea why a new driver wouldnt go as far as an old driver, if your so smart. the worst part about this is that if i was an 18 hcp people would be trying to help me figure out a weight set up to get the ball lower but because im a 1.2 people assume i should know this kind of stuff when i just bought the r9 yesterday\

edit: i know im hitting the ball high but i dont know what weight configuration would give me a lower ball flight. so if anyone has a reasonable answer to that it would be much appreciated
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I have 2 questions that i clearly should know the answer to. first of all i have been hitting the ball very very high ever since i got rid of my x460 tour and i have been hitting the ball so terribly off the tee.

I'll take a stab at your questions. I can't specifically address the TM R9 driver, but what I've noticed is that most driver heads weigh for 190-196 grams and will do well with a 65 gr shaft. "Tour" model heads seem to be a little heavier, 198-205 grams and will usually be on 70 and 80 gram shafts, but you can get away with a 65 gr shaft.

As for the new drivers, its not the driver as .83 COR and 460 cc's is all the USGA will allow, its the shaft that makes the difference. So if you aren't getting any distance my guess is that the shaft you had/used was too soft for your swing. LOL, so your 4 metal goes as far as most ppl's drives. So that means you hit it 200-220 yds cuz that is the average length of mens drives. I'm not sure I've answered your questions, but I do know if you really want to do it right you need to get on a launch monitor and see what loft/shaft combination works best for your swing.
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or instead of being sarcastic you could try to help... maybe you have some idea why a new driver wouldnt go as far as an old driver, if your so smart. the worst part about this is that if i was an 18 hcp people would be trying to help me figure out a weight set up to get the ball lower but because im a 1.2 people assume i should know this kind of stuff when i just bought the r9 yesterday\

Actually, it's not sarcasm, he's absolutely right. Modern drivers (especially TaylorMade) are made for the average hacker, they have way too much spin, and way too much shaft flex, and the loft is always much higher than it says on the head. The face roll is measured low on the driver, so a 9.5° driver is more like an 11° driver. The heads are weighted low and rearward, which pops the ball into the air. If the shaft you have in your driver is the stock one, expect to hit it high and crooked, because that's what stock shafts do, they aren't nearly stiff enough for many better players, but because too many people have egos, they insist on buying the stiff shaft. So manufacturers put on a weaker shaft and call it stiff.

You have a few options. You can seek out a low spin head. Adams's older 9015d and Titleist's 909D3, as well as the TM Superdeep are all fairly low spin heads. Next, you'll want an X shaft, or at least a good S, not one of these OEM pieces of junk. Odds are, with the newer driver, you're hooking it or just having trouble from drive to drive keeping it consistent. That's not uncommon with OEM drivers. I have a friend who's a pro (about +3 or so), and he can't even control an off the rack driver. He uses a 909D3, tour issue with a tour issue Voodoo X flex. He's not even a longer hitter, but the difference is pretty amazing.
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Actually, it's not sarcasm, he's absolutely right. Modern drivers (especially TaylorMade) are made for the average hacker, they have way too much spin, and way too much shaft flex, and the loft is always much higher than it says on the head. The face roll is measured low on the driver, so a 9.5° driver is more like an 11° driver. The heads are weighted low and rearward, which pops the ball into the air. If the shaft you have in your driver is the stock one, expect to hit it high and crooked, because that's what stock shafts do, they aren't nearly stiff enough for many better players, but because too many people have egos, they insist on buying the stiff shaft. So manufacturers put on a weaker shaft and call it stiff.

thank you. so do you think i should sell my ft-9 tour i-mix with its shaft and my r9 and just get something older that came out before the days of lying companies

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thank you. so do you think i should sell my ft-9 tour i-mix with its shaft and my r9 and just get something older that came out before the days of lying companies

Hard to say, but there are drivers made to good specs still, they just require some tweaking. Really, pretty much all drivers fudge the numbers. The key is to take control and build one custom to your specs.

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Hard to say, but there are drivers made to good specs still, they just require some tweaking. Really, pretty much all drivers fudge the numbers. The key is to take control and build one custom to your specs.

how much do you think that will cost me?

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how much do you think that will cost me?

First, i dig teh 4 wood thing, that was hilarious!

heres what your gonna do. if you like to work the ball, your going to find the tour version of whatever brand you decide on. AKA your going to get a head that is a degree open. If you like to fade the ball easily, get one that is super open, if you like to draw easily, get a closed face etc etc. Next your going to find the head that looks best to you. Dont worry about any of the technical crap, cuz lets be completely honest, if your getting a "Tour" head, they are all getting at the same goal.. so get one that sets up well for you. Now comes the tricky part. you need to find a sahft. you say your hitting the ball too high.. are you hitting it high? or is it spinning up into the air. If its just plain high WhiteBoard F6M2 Rombax Z If your spining the ball way to high- PM702 Project X Now, all these shafts feel different, flight different, etc etc. so just because say, the project X goes farther than the whiteboard, get the one that feels better.. your gonna hit a club your confident in alot better than one you dont like. For what its worth, i have a code 6Matrix which is a mid launch, mid spin shaft, X flex, (Doesnt play super stiff) in candy green..its a fantastic shaft, and if your intrested im sure we could work out a deal for it.. Brian
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First, i dig teh 4 wood thing, that was hilarious!

the ball is launching about5 or 6 degrees to high and his hitting and coming back in the fairways. i was thinking yesterday and when i used to have a 73g shaft i got alot less kick and alot more distance. could the shaft weight have anything to do with it because i was thinking of putting the 95g v2 shaft in it

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i doubt that would help. increasing weight would adjust your tempo. if the ball is literally hopping up and back than you need to get a shaft that spins less. whats your launch angle with the driver?


just off the top of my head, JB has a launch angle around 16 degrees (if i remember from a playing lessons with the pros i watched)
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This sounds like me! I hit my 3 wood 230,my hybrid 210,my 8 iron 155,but my driver/s 220! left/right/hook.fade,you name it. once played to a 4 handicap,now 12. no confidence on the tee. I've tried all the new drivers,with no improvement. now thinking about just starting to build my own driver & experiment with shafts. Tired of paying $300-$400. a pop with no improvement.
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This sounds like me! I hit my 3 wood 230,my hybrid 210,my 8 iron 155,but my driver/s 220! left/right/hook.fade,you name it. once played to a 4 handicap,now 12. no confidence on the tee. I've tried all the new drivers,with no improvement. now thinking about just starting to build my own driver & experiment with shafts. Tired of paying $300-$400. a pop with no improvement.

i can absolutely murder my 4 wood. i had 270 out on a flat par 5 yesterday and i hit the green like i can smoke that club and i hit my driver about the same. i actually went driver, driver on a par 5 yesterday.

laxplayer-im actally playing better my hcp has gone down froma 1.9 to a 1.2 after shooting under par for a whole week with a 66 and a couple 70's and some 35's without really using driver but my friends new joke whenever i hit my driver they say "nice shot, what was that. a 56?" and it does go that high. like im clearly higher than the optimal launch angle by 5 or 6 degrees because iv lost about 30 yards on a good drive and between 80 and 100 on a bad one. i was questioning putting a 95g X flex shaft in it to try to weigh it down because my course is dry this year so it will roll
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k..going from a 67 to a 95 is pretty drastic. you could always just, ya know, put a better shaft in it, instead of spending money on one that obviously isnt working but will be heavier.

Yea. If its heavier, i am not really sure thats gonna help you get any more roll.. perhaps if you got a shaft that spun a bit less... Why yes! that would work just swell!
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how much do you think that will cost me?

Probably cost less than a new R9 or FT; and I bet you would be much happier with it also.

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