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Titleist Commercials - Pro V1/Pro V1x - Does Compression Matter?

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And you clearly already know the only answer you want to hear.

Originally Posted by robrey85

I already take lessons. I'll pass on the cheapest balls I can find. I buy my balls on Ebay anyway to save the most money possible but with buying decent to mint condition balls. I'd rather find out what works best with how I play currently so I can continue to play my best and then if I need to switch later on when my HC gets lower, I can do that as well.

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Originally Posted by max power

And you clearly already know the only answer you want to hear.

Quote:

Originally Posted by robrey85

I already take lessons. I'll pass on the cheapest balls I can find. I buy my balls on Ebay anyway to save the most money possible but with buying decent to mint condition balls. I'd rather find out what works best with how I play currently so I can continue to play my best and then if I need to switch later on when my HC gets lower, I can do that as well.

Not sure how choosing one ball, then buying a used version, is a great idea, but whatever floats your boat. I chose a ball that worked for my game and that I could afford to buy at a retail outlet. Then when my game got better (stopped losing so many balls - next round will be my third with the same B330) I upped the ante.

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Originally Posted by sean_miller

Not sure how choosing one ball, then buying a used version, is a great idea, but whatever floats your boat. I chose a ball that worked for my game and that I could afford to buy at a retail outlet. Then when my game got better (stopped losing so many balls - next round will be my third with the same B330) I upped the ante.

Well, if you get the lost golf balls that have been hit a couple of holes, it's just like buying brand new. It really isn't that bad and they come in really good shape. Although, I did have an experience with buying AAA balls and those were garbage. Might as well have bashed them with a nice rock over and over. Give it a shot if you're ever short on funds. I really don't think you'll regret it assuming you pick the right quality.

Originally Posted by max power

And you clearly already know the only answer you want to hear.


Alright dick, considering you didn't even answer my question that I originally asked, thanks for your feedback.

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Originally Posted by robrey85

Quote:

Originally Posted by sean_miller

Not sure how choosing one ball, then buying a used version, is a great idea, but whatever floats your boat. I chose a ball that worked for my game and that I could afford to buy at a retail outlet. Then when my game got better (stopped losing so many balls - next round will be my third with the same B330) I upped the ante.

Well, if you get the lost golf balls that have been hit a couple of holes, it's just like buying brand new. It really isn't that bad and they come in really good shape. Although, I did have an experience with buying AAA balls and those were garbage. Might as well have bashed them with a nice rock over and over. Give it a shot if you're ever short on funds. I really don't think you'll regret it assuming you pick the right quality.

Quote:

Originally Posted by max power

And you clearly already know the only answer you want to hear.

Alright dick, considering you didn't even answer my question that I originally asked, thanks for your feedback.

If you're getting a mix-and-match box of AAAAA++++ balls that appear to be one hit wonders, you might get what you wanted and you might not. At our level it probably doesn't really matter, but I prefer knowing that every ball in the box was from the same year and likely the same batch.

It probably isn't really so important for most players though. I've seen guys post comparisons of two balls (after playing only 2 or 3 holes or even after hitting just a couple drives which is odd, but whatever) and they often see very little significant differences between brands, let alone different years of the same brand.

I http://www.golfballselector.com/pdf/GBS_CompressionHardness_Test_090811_v8.11a.pdf

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Originally Posted by sean_miller

If you're getting a mix-and-match box of AAAAA++++ balls that appear to be one hit wonders, you might get what you wanted and you might not. At our level it probably doesn't really matter, but I prefer knowing that every ball in the box was from the same year and likely the same batch.

It probably isn't really so important for most players though. I've seen guys post comparisons of two balls (after playing only 2 or 3 holes or even after hitting just a couple drives which is odd, but whatever) and they often see very little significant differences between brands, let alone different years of the same brand.

Ihttp://www.golfballselector.com/pdf/GBS_CompressionHardness_Test_090811_v8.11a.pdf


Yeah, that's probably my only gripe is that you can get a lot of all the same brand balls, for example E6, but they could be different years and I think different years have some changes and what not. I see what you're sayin' and I might just go that route eventually so I can support some local golf shops but for now I would rather go with what I can get on ebay or lostgolfballs.com

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It is a problem.  I have bought AAAA Titleist NXT Tours from lostgolfballs.com over the last few years.  While all the balls were NXT Tours, they ranged in years back to 2003 and 6 different versions.

I found out that the original NXT Tour was a 2 part ball, and had very different characteristics from the 2005, 2008, 2010, and 2012 versions.  I noticed some balls played differently than others, but never considered there were different versions of the ball and instead blamed it on my swing.  I have since gone through and sorted them all out, so I at least know what I'm hitting.

Originally Posted by robrey85

Yeah, that's probably my only gripe is that you can get a lot of all the same brand balls, for example E6, but they could be different years and I think different years have some changes and what not. I see what you're sayin' and I might just go that route eventually so I can support some local golf shops but for now I would rather go with what I can get on ebay or lostgolfballs.com

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With my game and bank account I can't justify spending nearly $50 for a dozen balls, no matter what Titleist or anyone else says.  I bought 7 1/2 dozen Top Flite Gamer V2s online at less than $0.90 per ball )six 15-packs for $81 including shipping).  I wish they had a "Made in America" label like my New Balance shoes but some things just can't be helped.  On testing the Pro V1 had a spin rate of approximately 12,000 rpm and the Gamer V2 10,500 rpm, while the Gamer was a few yards longer off of the tee.  I can't make the Gamer back up unless I catch it perfectly with a sand wedge, but I can hit it the distance I need and have very little rollout on everything up to my 6 iron. Last time out I hit a 7 iron really crisply and the Gamer had less than four feet of roll after it hit the green. It's probably the lowest priced three-piece ball at $20/dozen (if you can still find them- I know that my local WalMart still has some) but I don't know what's going to happen with it since Dick's Sporting Goods bought Top Flite from Callaway in April.

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Well played.  Using some of that Las Vegas charm.

Originally Posted by robrey85

Well, if you get the lost golf balls that have been hit a couple of holes, it's just like buying brand new. It really isn't that bad and they come in really good shape. Although, I did have an experience with buying AAA balls and those were garbage. Might as well have bashed them with a nice rock over and over. Give it a shot if you're ever short on funds. I really don't think you'll regret it assuming you pick the right quality.

Alright dick, considering you didn't even answer my question that I originally asked, thanks for your feedback.

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This is an interesting question.  TaylorMade first started pressing the Penta as a multilayer ball--the different layers came into play with different clubs at different speeds.  Basically (and I'm guesstimating) 70MPH of CHS (wedges) will impact the first layer, 80MPH (short irons) the second layer, 90MPH (mid irons) the third layer, etc. So if your CHS with a driver is 95MPH, you won't be compressing the inner layer of the ball, but you can still benefit from its performance characteristics.

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Seems like we all use range balls for practice, and if we use a higher compression ball for the course we might be pleasantly surprised by the distance gains off the tee. If not we need to use a bigger club the next shot. So, why not just expect range ball distances on the course? In my experience, the distances at the range are pretty similar to those on the course. For a satirical video, see "range balls with John o Hurley".

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Originally Posted by rustyredcab

I like the spin control of both Bridgestone RX and Callaway HEX Chrome. I find ProV's sometime ballon on me -- especially in the wind. The best overall ball for me now seems to be the Chrome. I also am hooked on yellow.


+1 on the new Chrome Hex Yellow....

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Well I have a swing speed around 97 to 100, if I drive a tour ball on monitor conditions all the same, say a prov1x which is high compression around 110, I carry it about 240. Now that said,  if I drive a ball with a compression of about 75 rocket, qstar, even mojo, I carry it 258 to 278. Now that is SIGNIFICANT, the numbers simply dont lie, therefore it seems to me ball compression does matter!

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Originally Posted by GaijinGolfer

For years Titleist has been trying to tell people that the Pro V1 is the right ball for everyone.  This, "compression doesnt matter" campaign is just their latest attempt at trying to get hacks to play a more expensive ball.

I'm inclined to agree with you....and I'm no Titleist basher as my go-to ball is the DT So/Lo.  Great all around ball for reasonable price imo.

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