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Posted

I just got back into golf after many years off, and really looking forward to practicing instead of doing the weekly round of casual golf.

In a good day, I can shoot a 96, but that can easily hit the 105 mark if I'm playing poorly.  My iron swing speed is appx 96, while driver is around 107 I believe.

Without getting fully fitted, I went with the Burner 2.0 irons.  The 'basic' fit consisted of upright lie, and determining if I should go with regular steel, versus stiff.  In the end, I went with the stiff.  For the most part, I am happy with the irons.  They feel great, and confident when hitting them.  Practice will help as I move forward.

On the other hand, I went into a Dicks and only tested 1 driver, the TM Burner Superfast.  Without even really getting fitted, I went with that driver in a 9.5*/stock stiff shaft.  I am still hitting the ball fairly high, and when I connect, it feels great.  On the other hand, I feel my slice (ball spin) is much worse with this driver. Also hitting this club fairly high for a 9.5*.   Forgiving, yes...but I slice much worse now than I ever did.

I keep reading the forum and everyone says go 10.5*, or higher.  I just feel if I went with an even higher degree, my ball would be reaching the clouds.  All in all, someone wants to buy my driver for $100, which I feel is a decent price.

What are your thoughts on selling this club, and getting fully fitted for a new driver?  I am not quite sure if the loft, shaft, and lightness of the club is affecting my game greatly, or if I should just stick with it another year.

Opinions?


Posted

Sell it, and get fir for a new driver. Most shops will fit you for free if you buy a new driver. (New usually means you're the first owner, not that it's a this year/most ecxpensive model).

So, use launch-monitor data to get a goot-fit driver that's already had one price reduction. You could come out for maybe net $150 after you sold the other driver driver.

(If slicing is a problem, you might find you have more spin than you need on the ball.  Again, the LM can help  you there.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

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Posted

Take it into a golf shop and put it on the monitor next to something that they recommend. If the numbers are optimal keep it, if you find something better sell it. You should get it checked out before you dump it.

Callaway AI Smoke TD Max 10.5* | Cobra Big Tour 15.5* | Rad Tour 18.5* | Titleist U500 4i | T100 5-P | Vokey 50/8* F, 54/10* S,  58/10* S | Scotty Cameron Squareback 1


Posted

Before shuffling your equipment, I'd really consider spending the $50 - $75 for a good lesson from a PGA professional.

If you're hitting very high slices with a 9.5/S driver, there are swingpath and impact issues that could be addressed.  Solid impact will benefit every club in the bag.

In the Bag: TaylorMade R11 TP - TaylorMade R7 TP TS - Cleveland Halo - TM TP 2009 3-PW - Vokey SM 52 - Vokey SM 60 - Rife Barbados CS - ProV1x 


On the Computer:  Analyzr Pro 
 


Posted
I agree with above poster, it's a swing issue. Don't throw away money until someone who knows what they are doing looks at your driver swing.

Posted

definitely swing issue.  i looked forever for a new driver, and not until i started hitting my own consistently and saw the things about the DRIVER i didn't like, did i know what i wanted to look for in a new one.

having inconsistencies in the swing makes it really difficult to determine what is wrong with the club (if anything).


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