• Announcements

    • iacas

      GAME GOLF Ryder Cup Contest   09/22/2016

      Join our GAME GOLF Ryder Cup Challenge to win an autographed GAME GOLF, a Pebble Steel watch, and many more great prizes!
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
muskovardo

Getting distances of clubs

14 posts in this topic

Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions on the best way for me to get the distance of my clubs. The local course where i am a member has a practice area but has no distance markers. I  would go to the local range but they use balls that dont fly as far so that wont help me either. Having just bought some new irons im finding club selection is a bit of a pain. Does anyone have any suggestions or is it going to be a case of get on the course and hope i chose the same one until i get it right.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Want to get rid of this advertisement? Sign up (or log in) today! It's free!

This is a problem that is dependent on a) how often you play golf, and b) if your technique changes, or your body and you start hitting the ball further (or shorter). Personally, when I used to play golf non - consistently, I found that my 150 yard club was an 8 iron and my SW was about 90 yards. When I joined a golf club, after a couple of months, I started hitting the ball a lot better and was having a real problem with distances. I started hitting loads of shots from the markers of 100 yards and 150 yards. I worked out I had picked up about an iron in distance. If you can find a quiet time consistently at your local course and with mid - range conditions; you should be able to find out what you hit 100 yards, 150 yards and 200 yards. Anything over 200 yards, you'll get an idea what you hit, but it's likely to be that inconsistent that the exact yardages won't matter. You should be able to roughly work out the distances between the clubs in between those yards. The only caveat that I would have on that advice is your PW. I don't know the exact angle of mine, but I hit my 52 degree 115 yards, my 9 iron 150 yards and my PW 135 yards.
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions on the best way for me to get the distance of my clubs. The local course where i am a member has a practice area but has no distance markers. I  would go to the local range but they use balls that dont fly as far so that wont help me either. Having just bought some new irons im finding club selection is a bit of a pain. Does anyone have any suggestions or is it going to be a case of get on the course and hope i chose the same one until i get it right.

The best place and time to find your distances (I hope no golf course ambassadors are tracking this thread, if there are, my real name is John Doe :-P ), is when it is the least busy on a course. You can play when there is no one around and hit multiple numbered balls. For example on a par 4, tee off twice with a driver, and measure their distances. On your "second" shot you hit multiple balls with the appropriate length club toward the green. Move up 10 yards and hit the next shortest club, and continue to shorter clubs. When you get to the balls, look at the numbers and the distance you ranged. Just estimate the difference in landing position for each type of iron to get dispersion, and average for distance. Use your longer irons and hybrids on the longest par 3 you can find, and do the same thing. You can drive with your 3W off a 1/4" tee. Just don't leave duff marks or divots on the tee box or fairways. Practice at the range until your divots are not that noticeable. Also, don't take too long at any hole or the course ambassador will start to suspect something. If you don't leave divots, they might turn the other way.

Lately, I use a rangefinder (I got it years ago for shooting and hunting for something like $150) and measure the distance to the pin and the distances from where the balls land to the pin and take the difference to determine the distance they traveled. You can get a decent rangefinder for $179 (Nikon).

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

If you have a rangefinder, or can borrow one, then place a mark (or someone) at the tee or mat, then walk out to the 50 and measure and there put a flag. Repeat at 100 and 150.  Works for one day unless the range can leave the flags. But in general, rangefinders work well for such tasks.,

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you have and Android or iPhone, they have many apps that use GPS to track you distance.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Getting distance for the driver is easy on the course - subtract the distance left to the green from the total yardage of the hole you are on.

For the irons, go to the course on a day when it is not busy.  Hit three shots from 150 and three from 100.  Once you find which irons hit those distances, you can get a good estimate of where the rest of the irons will hit.  If you are a long hitter, hit from the 200 yard marker instead of the 100.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Getting distance for the driver is easy on the course - subtract the distance left to the green from the total yardage of the hole you are on.

For the irons, go to the course on a day when it is not busy.  Hit three shots from 150 and three from 100.  Once you find which irons hit those distances, you can get a good estimate of where the rest of the irons will hit.  If you are a long hitter, hit from the 200 yard marker instead of the 100.

IMO using that is why there are so many people that think they hit the ball further than they actually do. They are at the 100 yard marker and look down at the scorecard and it says the hole is 400 yards and they think they hit a 300 yard drive. Actually what they did was cut off a slight dogleg and the tee markers were on the front part of the box or on a totally different box from the normal box for that color tee.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Getting distance for the driver is easy on the course - subtract the distance left to the green from the total yardage of the hole you are on.

For the irons, go to the course on a day when it is not busy.  Hit three shots from 150 and three from 100.  Once you find which irons hit those distances, you can get a good estimate of where the rest of the irons will hit.  If you are a long hitter, hit from the 200 yard marker instead of the 100.

I agree mostly with the second part, since the 150 markers are usually measured from the center of the green directly. The tees, however, are moved around all the time and the overall yardages on the holes tend to be way off. For example, if a hole has a dogleg and plays about 380 according to the scorecard, it's measured on a line down the center of the fairway and the line bends as the fairway does. I could laser the pin and it could only be 270 to the front and 290 to the flag, but if I reached it from the tee I wouldn't claim a 380 yard drive.

The way I learned my yardages worked well; I got an unlimited range pass and hit thousands of balls until my swing got good. They use a single type of ball primarily, so I could compare it easily to similar shots on the course. Since they are very consistent I could hit balls to any of the 6 greens and know how much power and club it took to get to the front, middle, and back. I'd know if I hit it flush and I could compare it to the course with actual balls to some extent, depending on what ball. So I could hit a bucket each day and know from the temperature and wind and the state of my swing what clubs to use on a few key shots. I also got a laser rangefinder and that confirmed a lot of my longer clubs. So I could go to the first tee and hit a shot and know where it would have ended up on that range based on contact, then compare the total distance to the range ball and have a pretty accurate idea of what to hit.

I also didn't have even numbered irons in my bag until this year, so I had to adapt on a lot of holes, but in the end I think I could hit every gap in my bag with another club.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Cheers for the reply guys! As im pretty short on funds think for now it will be a gps app and some marking flags! I did know my distances but my new clubs have thrown me off completely! Most apps will be the same right?
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Getting distance for the driver is easy on the course - subtract the distance left to the green from the total yardage of the hole you are on.

For the irons, go to the course on a day when it is not busy.  Hit three shots from 150 and three from 100.  Once you find which irons hit those distances, you can get a good estimate of where the rest of the irons will hit.  If you are a long hitter, hit from the 200 yard marker instead of the 100.

Uh no. When a tee box can be over a 100 yards long, that isn't a good idea. Most tee boxes are usually 15-30 yards deep, still that is the difference between 250 yards and 280 yards. Also some courses are not accurate on the score card.

Best way to figure out distances, GPS. For irons using the markers isn't a bad one. Just make sure you validated them on google maps or laser. I've seen some markers be off as much as 10-15 yards. That is 1 club off.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Yes, I agree with the posts above. I made it sound more simple than it actually is. You would need to use the method on a hole that is straight, level, and has a yardage marker on the tee box. And it would still be difficult to separate carry distance from total distance with roll out.
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's a longshot but you can try this. I asked a local golf shop that has five hitting stalls equipped with Foresight GC2s if I can bring in my clubs and use the launch monitor to get my average distances. Some are familiar with me since I do buy a good amount of my equipment and accessories from them. They did say it was okay (a little hesitant) but only during slow periods, which is on the weekdays around midday. I have yet to take them up on that offer because I'm not usually free around that time, but I still want to go back if I do have a day off to do that.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers for the reply guys! As im pretty short on funds think for now it will be a gps app and some marking flags! I did know my distances but my new clubs have thrown me off completely! Most apps will be the same right?


You can still do the tests I described without the rangefinder. The 150/100 markers are to the centers of the greens. So if you are close to those, you can pace off 1 yard steps to get other yardages. Best place is on the course. Try to get on at super twilight, maybe $13/round or less? You can go as a single in front of a slow looking foursome, and get way out in front of them to do these tests.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

You're over thinking this. If you knew the distances you hit your old irons, it shouldn't take you much more than a round to figure out any differences. Pull the same club you always had previously. Hit, observe how the new club compares relative to the old. Rinse and repeat. That's all there is to it.
1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • 2016 TST Partners

    GAME Golf
    PING Golf
    Lowest Score Wins
  • Posts

    • I like it. Especially compared to nearly all past US Ryder Cup kits. Actually before I dish out too much praise, do they have a huge Stars and Stripes flag emblazoned on the back?
    • I would say it depends on what club you're talking about. For drivers I would say that the best performing drivers of all time have been made within the last five years. Aerodynamics, material science, and the proliferation of launch monitors and data driven design have resulted in improvements across the board in distance and forgiveness as of late. I know that I personally saw a decent improvement on my G10 when I switched to a G30, in that I gained between 10 and 15 yards without sacrificing accuracy. This is on the high end of what aerodynamics can provide though, simply because higher swing speeds receive a greater benefit from decreased drag. Depending on the individual you may not see much difference so long as the driver itself was made within the last ten years or so. For irons I would be inclined to say that the main difference in the irons of yesteryear and the irons of today is forgiveness. The irons made today are much easier to hit than previous irons, simply because they aren't as drastically punishing on mis-hits as the old blades. The PING Eye2 irons seemed to be the first "widespread" GI iron that sparked the trend towards irons that were easier for the layman to hit. That being said, I found my s55 irons (their "blade" from several years ago) to be more forgiving than the Eye2's. Based on that and observations from other clubs I have hit I would say the average golfer would be best suited by irons made within the last 10 to 15 years that are in good condition with sharp grooves. If you play muscleback irons though, there's pretty much zero difference between modern "true" musclebacks and those of yore, though the current muscle-cavity irons (like the iBlade and MP-15) will likely be at least a bit easier to hit than the older blades while maintaining a similar style.  Wedges are the only thing that I would argue the "latest and greatest" provides a tangible benefit for. The reasoning for this is entirely different however, in that it's based solely off the condition of the grooves in older wedges. As wedges grow old, and get used, the grooves wear to the point that there becomes a noticeable performance difference - especially when playing out of the rough. For this reason alone do I say that the average golfer (assuming they golf at least once a week during the golfing season) is best suited by wedges no older than two or three years old.  Putters are the odd man out here. I don't think it matters in the slightest when your putter was manufactured, so long as you keep a reasonable grip on it so that it doesn't slip out of your hands. I personally am a fan of the newer milled putters for the feel they provide, but it doesn't mean I couldn't probably putt nearly as well with an original Anser putter in the same style. I think the average golfer is best suited by whatever putter style and features allow them to consistently roll the ball along their target line, with no age requirement. In summary, considering the advancement of technology, I would feel comfortable putting these "maximum age caps" on equipment for the average weekend golfer to get the most out of his/her game: Drivers: ~10 years old or newer Irons: ~15 years old or newer Wedges: ~3 years old or newer Putter: Whatever works best for you That being said, you may still enjoy the game with any kind of equipment out there. I just think that equipment that follows these guidelines will let the average weekend golfer get about as much as they can out of their game without necessarily breaking the bank. Like @iacas said, you may find incremental improvements by purchasing the R1 over an old G5 but the question then becomes whether or not this improvement is worth the price difference. This question can only be answered by the person buying the club. It can't be denied, however, that a driver from the 1960's will be severely outclassed by the G5 and the R1, making either of them a much better choice than the 1960's driver. Interestingly enough, I have had the desire to go the opposite way for a while now. I bought the s55's my last go around, and I'm thinking that my next set of irons will be a more "traditional" muscleback iron (since the s55 is mostly a CB), along the likes of the MP-4 irons by Mizuno. I hit the ball consistently enough that I don't care about the lack of forgiveness, and I believe that the wonderful look and feel of those irons, along with the little bit of extra vertical control (can thin it slightly to make punch shots even easier) would offset whatever I lose in forgiveness. I know that I would most certainly never go to an iron like the AP2, the G, or the M2. The chunky look of the club (along with the offset) gets into my head nowadays and makes me feel uncomfortable standing over the ball in a manner similar to how I used to be intimidated by the look of blades at address. I would gain forgiveness, but at the price of distance and trajectory control - an unacceptable trade for me considering I value distance and trajectory control much more highly than forgiveness.
    • My newest clubs are pretty old. Maybe 2006? I don't really remember. The other day, just for the heck of it,  I played using my old Bazooka Iron Woods. (2i-LW) Shot my normal score. Those Ironwoods are probably 15-16 years old. I don't think at this stage of my life, that a new set would make that much difference. 
    • My irons are from 1978, driver and woods from 2004 (same G5 as you)....at my current playing level, I don't feel like my clubs are holding my scores back. I will be updating my wedges to something designed this century in the near future but I'll probably regrip and keep playing my grandfather's old Eye irons a couple more years. There's something to be said about being familiar with your equipment too. The control you talk about with your driver comes from hitting a lot of balls with it and getting to know how it responds to different things. That's tough to give up considering that it could take weeks to develop that relationship with a new driver...at least that helps me cure the new toy bug and keep the wallet closed. :)
    • Hah, I was thinking the same thing when I saw that pic go up on the landing page.
  • TST Blog Entries

  • Images

  • Today's Birthdays

    1. mahariji_slice
      mahariji_slice
      (35 years old)
  • Blog Entries