Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
dazza78

Gap wedge

Note: This thread is 1532 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

19 posts / 2099 viewsLast Reply

Recommended Posts

Hi all I've been wondering if I need one. I've been using my sand wedge (and pitching) when around the green. I tend to find that when using the sand wedge onto the green I get it up but often hit it too cautiously landing short. What are the thoughts on gap wedges and any guidance on degree/bounce etc? Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Register for free today and you won't see this ad spot again!

I don't use a GW around the green (within 20-30 yards), between the SW, LW & Putter... I feel I have almost every shot covered. The GW is more important on full shots or longer pitch shots. (Then again, it could vary person to person). The important thing to keep in mind when choosing one, is that it splits the distance gap between your SW and PW (I.e. Why they call it a gap wedge). The only way to do that is to hit the range or a launch monitor and find out what fits best. As far as bounce, you don't really need a lot of bounce with a GW. I think around 6 or 8 would be typical.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all I've been wondering if I need one. I've been using my sand wedge (and pitching) when around the green. I tend to find that when using the sand wedge onto the green I get it up but often hit it too cautiously landing short.

What are the thoughts on gap wedges and any guidance on degree/bounce etc?

Thanks

Most pitching wedges are 46* - 48* and most sand wedges are 56* so that leave a pretty big gap - thus the name.

Most SGI / GI sets offer a matching gap wedge so I'd suggest that as my first option.  If they don't or you want something that is more like your pitching wedge you'd be okay with a 51* or 52* gap wedge.  I use my gap wedge on full swings so I prefer less bounce, around 8*- 9*.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

As far as bounce, you don't really need a lot of bounce with a GW. I think around 6 or 8 would be typical.

I disagree, but then again I helped name the PING Glide wedges and am a huge fan of bounce.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Whether you need a gap wedge depends on whether you have a gap that needs filling. My PW is 45° and goes 127ish. My SW is 56° and goes 105ish, (a bit less lately, grr). I got a GW that is 52° and goes 115ish. It fills my gap perfectly. It also serves as my go to club for chipping and pitching (though my higher bounce SW has creeped in because of its forgiveness). Figure out whether you have a yardage gap to fill and find something that fills it. The exact numbers aren't that important. A pure blade GW might go less far than a similarly lofted wedge that has a big cavity. The cavity wedge will, often, be tougher to open up and manipulate. Do you do that? Might not be an issue. I like to open my wedges often, so I'll never play a non-bladed wedge, or at least not a big chunky one. Costs me a bit of forgiveness in exchange for versatility and general visual appeal that makes me happy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I disagree, but then again I helped name the PING Glide wedges and am a huge fan of bounce.

What would be the purpose of "more" bounce on a gap wedge? It makes sense to me out of sand, but not sure I understand the benefit otherwise

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't use a GW around the green (within 20-30 yards), between the SW, LW & Putter... I feel I have almost every shot covered.

The GW is more important on full shots or longer pitch shots. (Then again, it could vary person to person). The important thing to keep in mind when choosing one, is that it splits the distance gap between your SW and PW (I.e. Why they call it a gap wedge). The only way to do that is to hit the range or a launch monitor and find out what fits best.

As far as bounce, you don't really need a lot of bounce with a GW. I think around 6 or 8 would be typical.

I totally agree with the 1st two paragraphs.  Some people use the GW/AW or whatever term you want to call it, around the green.  I use it for full shots only and I would be in trouble without it.  My PW goes 125-130 and my SW goes 95-100.  I really need my GW/AW for the 110-115 shot.

I can't stand the marketing campaign trying to "encourage" golfers to buy 52-56-60 degree wedges.  I doubt enough double digit handicap players would benefit from clubs with that small a difference b/w lofts.  The golfer spends ~ 360$ (120$ per wedge) and then he is still left with a huge gap b/w his PW loft (mine is 45 degrees) and the 52 degree wedge.  I guess if you have an old set of irons the PW might be 48 degrees???

Chalk it up to personal preference but I use the GW/AW that comes with my iron set.

Mine: PW-45', GW/AW-50', SW-bent to 55', LW-60'

As far as bounce my GW/AW has 11 degrees of bounce.  I prefer a mid-range of bounce with wedges.  I am a lot more picky about the bounce in my SW (12') and LW (10') since those are the only clubs I use inside 100 yards.

iacas would probably be better with thoughts on bounce

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What would be the purpose of "more" bounce on a gap wedge? It makes sense to me out of sand, but not sure I understand the benefit otherwise

Answered here I think:

Bounce = glide, and glide = forgiveness.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

My wedge set-up is: 47° PW (125 yds), 51° GW (115 yds), 55° SW (100 yds), and 60° LW (85 yds). So, I'd be lost without the gap. I never use it around the green, but my buddy uses one almost exclusively so it can be helpful there as well. Highly recommend adding one. I'm partial to my set-up or something close but I'm not sure what your overall set looks like.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Thanks for your input everybody! I will work on my distances. I guess a bit of research into the degree of my SW and PW will be required. Both of which are Nike vapor speed. Edit:- Sold Individually: #3 Iron - 19° #4 Iron - 21° #5 Iron - 24° #6 Iron - 28° #7 Iron - 32° #8 Iron - 36° #9 Iron - 40° Pitching Wedge - 44° Approach Wedge - 49° Sand Wedge - 54°

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What would be the purpose of "more" bounce on a gap wedge? It makes sense to me out of sand, but not sure I understand the benefit otherwise

If you play soft courses the bounce will improve turf interaction. Also depending on your style of strike, picking vs really hammering down that can change the feel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for your input everybody! I will work on my distances. I guess a bit of research into the degree of my SW and PW will be required. Both of which are Nike vapor speed. Edit:- Sold Individually: #3 Iron - 19° #4 Iron - 21° #5 Iron - 24° #6 Iron - 28° #7 Iron - 32° #8 Iron - 36° #9 Iron - 40° Pitching Wedge - 44° Approach Wedge - 49° Sand Wedge - 54°

I think something super important is for you to decide on a short game style that you like. Are you a feel or a mechanical player. Feel players often use fewer clubs to execute more shots. Mechanical players use the same swing and the lofts and bounce angles to achieve the desired effect. You'll learn your style with lots of practice. IMHO you need to combine both.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I play a 52* Nike VR Forged. It's my 115 yard club so it fits the "gap" distance wise between my 48 and 56. I mostly use it for full shots - much prefer this to choking down to the metal on the 48.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

PW-  46*
SW-  54*


That's a big gap.

GW-  50*


Ahh, that works, now I have a scoring club for every distance.


My thoughts are yes, if your clubs have a gap in the short irons, then get a gap wedge.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It may be worth starting with consideration of the AW you listed above (49*) that is specifically made as part if the Vapor Speed line that you are currently playing. That doesn't mean don't consider other options... But, there is already an AW specifically designed to work within that line of irons.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

More 'wedge thoughts' to muddy your waters.

About 15 years ago, I went to a golf academy and a teaching pro worked with me and three friends during a 3-day workshop.  When we got to the short game portion of his instruction, he said something that made a lot of sense.  His words of wisdom to us was find a good sand wedge that you feel comfortable with, learn all the shots with it and use it all the time.  Right, wrong or upside down, his words stuck with me and I use one wedge for most shots around the green.  It's a Titleist Vokey, 58 degrees, 11 degrees bounce and an 'M' grind.  Very forgiving but definitely hits all the shots.

The rest of the wedges.  My TM wedge lofts are 45 (PW) and 50 (AW or Gap Wedge, if you will).  I also carry a Titleist Vokey 54 degree with 11 degree bounce in the same M grinds as my go-to 58* wedge.  Why do I carry 4 wedges?  Mostly so I can use the same swing from 105, 95, 85 and 75 yards with each wedge.  Inside 150 and around the greens is the only consistently reliable part of my game.  Having the yardages dialed in on the wedges has made it even better.

Final thought for the OP:  The reason you leave many of your around the green wedge shots short is because you're not trusting the club's loft, the grooves and the golf ball enough to throw the ball close enough to the hole.  Trust me, the ball will stop!  My final swing thought on every chip, pitch, flop, whatever is 'get the ball ALL the way to the hole!'  When you have a good wedge with good grooves and play a Titleist ProV1 golf ball, it WILL stop right next to the hole.

dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Note: This thread is 1532 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  



  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • 2019 TST Partners

    PING Golf
    FlightScope Mevo
  • Posts

    • The problem is not hitting different types of shots or adjusting.  The problem is conditions can vary from one foot to the next.  In the situation I was, it would well have been possible that the condition of the sand where the ball was and your feet were would be completely different.  It makes judging what you are going to do nigh on impossible. I am OK with people hitting different shots from the same situation.  That is what makes golf great. I am also OK with challenges. What I have a problem with is conditions being bad due to insufficient maintenance.  I would rather have a course with other alternatives, even if it is a hazard, than an area that is supposed to be playable, but isn't.  To give you an example, my home course is built on a paddy field.  We still get land crabs digging holes on the course.  The understandable decision, a local one, has been made to offer relief from the crab holes on the course
    • I hate it if random strangers ask me if they can join. I always lose my composure. I said "no" a few times and explained why, but they always give  me glimpse like I murdered their first born.   I played a 109 today. For some of you outrageously high, for me a very good round. 😎 Played better than my provisional handicap.
    • Now that my season is done, I would like to reflect. My driving Fairway Hit % in the beginning of the year was less than 40%, to end the year it was 63.5%. My target goal was 65%, and if you remove the drives before I got my new driver it moves up to 66.4%, but that is cheating myself. I need to improve this stat. My average GIR was 7.8. This is bad, I really need to improve this. However, my best rounds of the year were all over 12 GIR, which shows that when I’m on my game, I’m hitting greens.  My Average score on par 3’s was 4.186. I really need to improve my par 3 play. My average par 5 score was 5.546. I’m not mad about this, but considering my length off the tee and with irons, I would want this to be at or under 5. My average par 4 score was 4.915 This is just abysmal. I shouldn’t be averaging nearly a bogey on par 4’s.  My average score in tournaments was an 89. 75. My average score out of tournaments was an 80.66. My goal for tournaments was 85 or better and my goal outside tournaments was under 80. I hit neither. These are the only stats I keep at the moment. I had a few rounds in the 90’s and 2 rounds over 100. The 90+ and 100+ scores were all in tournaments, save for one round of 91 I shot on my schools course. All in all, my short game improved a ton, my  iron ply improved a ton, my driving was the biggest overhaul, and my mid range wedges gained a fair amount of accuracy and consistency. I don’t feel I’m far off of being in the 70’s or better. I typically give myself plenty of birdie attempts, and I can recover well. 
    • Last day of the year for golf. Ended it kind of sadly.  Long story short, I was 2 over through 15, had about 5 birdie putts that I missed, made 2 birdies, had about 4 insane recovery chips that I still don’t understand how I pulled off, and 4 bogeys that honestly shouldn’t have happened. 2 were 3 putts from on the green, one was trying a stupid hero shot and drilling a tree, and the last one was a flubbed chip.  16 Tee I wildly miss the fairway with my fairway wood. It stings extra bad missing the fairway when you try to lay up, so I let it get in my head and decided to try yet another hero shot, drilled a tree and back into the fairway. Gun the yardage, 154 about an extra 10 uphill, so about 164. Torn between an 8 and a 7. My 8 goes about 164 max in the warm if I really up my tempo, and my 7 typically carries 178 in the warm, so I decided to play it safe and grip down on a 7 iron and flight the ball higher in the air so it carries shorter and stops better. Proceed to fly the green by about 10 yards because I absolutely poured the ball. Lose the ball in long grass behind green, return to previous shot, penalize myself for losing a ball and grab an 8 iron, then proceed to come up well short. You can see where I’m going with this. Finish with an 8. Now 6 over through 16, Finish 3 putt double bogey, and then par to shoot 80.  Oh well, shit happens sometimes. Up until that point I was playing well. 11 GIR is a pretty good stat, but 11 GIR and only 7 being par or better is not good.   Edit: looked at scorecard and realized i actually shot double bogey, then par to finish. Kind of stings worse.
  • TST Blog Entries

  • Blog Entries

  • Today's Birthdays


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...