Jump to content
Note: This thread is 6178 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

It's been a while since I've posted here, I was actually reminded when I checked my fantasy football league (I was in the sand trap league).. Anyways towards the end of August/ early September, I was driving the ball better then I had in my entire life, surprising accuracy, and increased distance. I was also hitting my irons pretty well, and my hybrids better then ever. Over the course of two weeks I went from putting a little draw on the ball to flat out duck-hooks. People I played with told me I was rolling my right hand over on my down swing, causing the club face to be almost completely closed, results in 80 yard snap hooks. I also lost the ability to hit my hybrid...Although I was told what my problem was I wasn't really offered any help that seemed to work, so I'm wondering if anyone here can tell me what else it may have been, or what I can do to correct this.
Happy Holidays Everyone!

In the bag:
Driver: r7 quad v2 stiff
3-Wood: XLS
Hybrid: X
Irons: CG Golds 3-GWSW: x forged 56/13LW: Vokey sm 60/.08Putter: Callie 35''Ball: pro v1


It's been a while since I've posted here, I was actually reminded when I checked my fantasy football league (I was in the sand trap league).. Anyways towards the end of August/ early September, I was driving the ball better then I had in my entire life, surprising accuracy, and increased distance. I was also hitting my irons pretty well, and my hybrids better then ever. Over the course of two weeks I went from putting a little draw on the ball to flat out duck-hooks. People I played with told me I was rolling my right hand over on my down swing, causing the club face to be almost completely closed, results in 80 yard snap hooks. I also lost the ability to hit my hybrid...Although I was told what my problem was I wasn't really offered any help that seemed to work, so I'm wondering if anyone here can tell me what else it may have been, or what I can do to correct this.

Is this with every club in the bag or just the driver and hybrids?

I can't explain hybrids, but if it's the driver, I found my problem to be releasing too early in an attempt to muscle the ball down the fairway, so through impact it was way the hell closed, and the ball would go about a mile into the woods on the left side. If that's the case, focus purely on releasing the clubhead on time (I've gotten to the point where I can drive a ball over 200 yards just using my arms and timing the wrists correctly).
"Shouldn't you be going faster? I mean, you're doing 40 in a 65..."

Driver: Burner TP 9.5*
3 Wood: 906F2 15*
2I: Eye 23I-PW: 3100 I/HWedges: Vokey Spin-Milled 56*06, MP-R 52*07/60*05Putter: Victoria IIBall: Pro V1xCheck out my new blog: Thousand Yard DriveHome Course: Kenton County...

I wholeheartedly agree with Lamebums here. It seems like everything I've read about hooks seems to mention that - barring setting up with the face wildly closed at address - releasing the clubhead too early is a major culprit.

From what I understand, any of the "down the line" drills should help rehabilitate both slices AND hooks. One of the most simple is the "Hit the Tee Drill", advocated by Golf Magazine. In their September 2007 article "How to Make Swing Changes Stick" they write:

" 2. It has proven to be very effective based on a previously published study in Golf Magazine (October 2004). The hit-the-tee drill outperformed 9 other commonly used practice drills, helping the research participants add an average of 13 yards to their 6-iron shots ."

This is how they describe the drill itself: "A ball is teed up, and then another tee is placed 6 inches in front of it along the target line." You then hit the ball and try to clip the 2nd tee. (BTW, the ultimate goal of the article was to find out what sort of routine helped to make practice swings become muscle memory. Their conclusion was that you should practice the drill like this:

1. 6 swings with NO ball, just two tees set up as above. Try to clip both tees.

2. 6 swings with a ball on the first tee. Swing to hit it and clip the second tee.

3. 6 swings with a ball on the first tee, but NO second tee in the ground.

4. Take a 4 minute break.

5. Repeat 1-4 three times.

This may have been the single most helpful instruction article I've ever read, since it describes how to make almost any practice drill that uses a prop (in this case, the second tee) actually become habit on the course. Sheer repetition, hundreds and hundreds of buckets, apparently isn't nearly as efficient.

Oops. I seemed to digress a bit there, sorry.

Anyway, a tip I saw on Golf TV from (I think) Padraig Harrington that you might also find helpful. I tried this the next day and it was GREAT for making not only a proper release, but for making a full weight shift from my right to left side. I now do it at least 10 times with driver every time I go to the range. Tee up a ball 6 inches or so outside your front foot. In other words, 6 inches down the line. In order to hit it, you have to keep the club coming in low, and with the face square for longer than usual. The first few swings you may miss it completely (I sure did, MORE than a few times.) But after a bit you learn that in order to hit the stupid thing you have to make an exaggerated weight shift to the left and keep the club on line a lot longer than you normally might. You really get the feeling of "throwing" the clubhead out there like the magazines are always telling us to do. If you turn your wrists over and release too early, you haven't got a chance. If you can finally nail this drill, you'll know you released properly. When you return to your normal ball position it may look odd at first, but if you can recreate the feeling you had during the drill it should straighten out your hook and maybe even add some yards.

I hope this helped some. Good luck with curing that awful disease!

Bag It:

3-Wood Wishon 525 F/D, 13*, Matrix Studio 65gm, Golf Pride Dual Compound
Hybrid: Wishon "321", 24*, MSF 85 HB, Winn DSI
Irons: Wishon 770CFE, Matrix Studio 74gm, Winn DSI

Putter: Odyssey DFX 2-Ball

Bag: Some big, honkin', ridiculous overkill of an Ogio cart bag with more pockets than I have teeth.


Another thing that you MUST check is simply how you are lining up and your grip.

I know for me those are my usual culprits along with pulling the club back too far inside to fast and then flipping at it.
"The general knowledge in the United States about Australia is low. Everybody thinks we ride kangaroos to school. You don't ever take a kangaroo to school. You take them to the supermarket because you can put groceries in the pouch. "

- Stuart Appleby


In The Bag:Driver - 9.5° XTD Pro Graphite...

or what I can do to correct this.

If you want to correct a duck hook, read Ben Hogan's Five Lessons. At least the chapter on the grip.

Hogan fought a duck hook in the early stages of his career. Vowing to never hit a hook again, he developed the grip he teaches in this book. A quote I read of his went something along the lines him dreading a hook, that the site of one makes his blood curl. I feel the same as well. His book is about as easy a read as you can find on such a complicated subject (the golf swing). A lot easier than you'll find trying to decipher tips you'll find on the internet (no offense to anyone here of course.)

Callaway RazrFit Extreme 9.5 w/Project X 6.5
Callaway XHot Pro 15* 3Wood w/Project X 6.5
Callaway XTour 18* 2h w/S300
Callaway XHot Pro 4/5 irons w/S300
Callaway XForged III 5-PW irons w/S300
Callaway Forged 52*/58* Wedges
Odyssey 7 Versa 90
Callaway Hex Black Tour


I agree with Ben 1000%. I had the exact same problem, I could not get rid of a hook to save my life, I read the book and did exactly what he says in it, didnt hit a snap hook after reading it. The book is that good. Buy it used online it may cost you two bucks. Best two bucks youll spend on golf.
Driver-Taylor Made R7 460cc 10.5* Fujikara REAX Stiff
Fairway Wood-Taylor Made R7 Draw 15* Fujikara REAX Stiff
Hybrid Taylor Made 19* Rescue Mid Steel Stiff
4-PW-Golfsmith G40 TT Lite XL Stiff
GW-Ben Hogan Riviera 8* Bounce 50*SW-Ben Hogan Riviera Medium Bounce 56*LW-Cleveland 60* 588 ChromePutter-Taylo...

Thanks for the responses guys. And to answer the first question, i began hooking everything, but not nearly as severe as my driver, and the hybrid, i couldn't get it in the air. I hesitate to change my grip, because it was the same grip I used all summer, a grip that was helping my produce consistant long and straight drives. I may alter my approach on my drives, i really don't know, i was hoping for a clear cut solution

In the bag:
Driver: r7 quad v2 stiff
3-Wood: XLS
Hybrid: X
Irons: CG Golds 3-GWSW: x forged 56/13LW: Vokey sm 60/.08Putter: Callie 35''Ball: pro v1


Don't think of it as altering [your grip], think of it is fine tuning.

Callaway RazrFit Extreme 9.5 w/Project X 6.5
Callaway XHot Pro 15* 3Wood w/Project X 6.5
Callaway XTour 18* 2h w/S300
Callaway XHot Pro 4/5 irons w/S300
Callaway XForged III 5-PW irons w/S300
Callaway Forged 52*/58* Wedges
Odyssey 7 Versa 90
Callaway Hex Black Tour


Anyway, a tip I saw on Golf TV from (I think) Padraig Harrington that you might also find helpful. I tried this the next day and it was GREAT for making not only a proper release, but for making a full weight shift from my right to left side. I now do it at least 10 times with driver every time I go to the range. Tee up a ball 6 inches or so outside your front foot. In other words, 6 inches down the line. In order to hit it, you have to keep the club coming in low, and with the face square for longer than usual. The first few swings you may miss it completely (I sure did, MORE than a few times.) But after a bit you learn that in order to hit the stupid thing you have to make an exaggerated weight shift to the left and keep the club on line a lot longer than you normally might. You really get the feeling of "throwing" the clubhead out there like the magazines are always telling us to do. If you turn your wrists over and release too early, you haven't got a chance. If you can finally nail this drill, you'll know you released properly. When you return to your normal ball position it may look odd at first, but if you can recreate the feeling you had during the drill it should straighten out your hook and maybe even add some yards.


I saw this drill on the Golf Digest website and tried it on the range this week, teeing the ball 12 inches forward of my front heel. After three or four shots, I could consistently hit the ball straight and just over 200 yards carry. Then when I went back to the proper tee position, my shots flew straight! I have been fighting a slice for a couple of months and can't wait to get back on the course, try the drill again, then use the driver on the first tee...

i'll give that a try, thanks

In the bag:
Driver: r7 quad v2 stiff
3-Wood: XLS
Hybrid: X
Irons: CG Golds 3-GWSW: x forged 56/13LW: Vokey sm 60/.08Putter: Callie 35''Ball: pro v1


Note: This thread is 6178 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...