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Are 30 Year Old Blades Still Functional in This Age?


satchmodog

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1 hour ago, billchao said:

I'm kind of curious, how would I go about getting a shaft fitting for my vintage clubs? Can I just assume that I should play the same shafts as my gamers, or would I get a different profile shaft for the blades?

Alternatively, I could just put the shafts I pulled from my gamers into them and see what happens.

Unless you have a set with aluminum shafts (which you should throw away immediately) I have never run into a problem with buying today's shafts and plugging them into older irons. I don't think shaft diameters for irons have changed much over time. 

There are some old Hogan clubs I had that had a pin in the hosel but I have become really good at removing them now. It takes some work but a punch will do the job. You don't even need to replace the punch just stick the new shaft in.

Michael

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10 minutes ago, mchepp said:

Unless you have a set with aluminum shafts (which you should throw away immediately) I have never run into a problem with buying today's shafts and plugging them into older irons. I don't think shaft diameters for irons have changed much over time. 

There are some old Hogan clubs I had that had a pin in the hosel but I have become really good at removing them now. It takes some work but a punch will do the job. You don't even need to replace the punch just stick the new shaft in.

Mine are Ben Hogan Apex 2s (Black Cameo). Thanks for the tip about the hosel pin, I never noticed that before (though to be fair I never thought about re-shafting these clubs before).

I have a set of True Temper XP 95 shafts sitting in the garage that I pulled from my CF16s. They were too light for me with the CF16s and I'm concerned they're just too light for me in general. Would hate to waste the effort to change shafts and not get a playable product. They're parallel tip anyway and there's a good chance the Hogans are .355" bore from what I've found here and there on the internet.

Bill

“By three methods we may learn wisdom: First, by reflection, which is noblest; Second, by imitation, which is easiest; and third by experience, which is the bitterest.” - Confucius

My Swing Thread

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On 9/30/2017 at 5:57 PM, billchao said:

Blades haven't changed much, and if you're good enough to play blades, the difference is probably negligible. 

As someone who plays modern blades (Callaway Apex MB) I will disagree with you here. There is a big difference in playability between my blades and those produced 30 years ago. While I would hardly call my clubs forgiving, they are not as harsh as the irons the OP is talking about. 

Danny    In my :ping: Hoofer Tour golf bag on my :clicgear: 8.0 Cart

Driver:   :pxg: 0311 Gen 5  X-Stiff.                        Irons:  :callaway: 4-PW APEX TCB Irons 
3 Wood: :callaway: Mavrik SZ Rogue X-Stiff                            Nippon Pro Modus 130 X-Stiff
3 Hybrid: :callaway: Mavrik Pro KBS Tour Proto X   Wedges: :vokey:  50°, 54°, 60° 
Putter: :odyssey:  2-Ball Ten Arm Lock        Ball: :titleist: ProV 1

 

 

 

 

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On 11/2/2017 at 9:02 PM, NM Golf said:

As someone who plays modern blades (Callaway Apex MB) I will disagree with you here. There is a big difference in playability between my blades and those produced 30 years ago. While I would hardly call my clubs forgiving, they are not as harsh as the irons the OP is talking about. 

I don't think they're much more forgiving, but some changes in design have certainly made today's blades more playable. Modern blades typically have slightly more bounce and a more rounded leading edge so they don't have the tendency to dig into the turf as much as vintage blades. It's a minor difference but it increases the margin of error just a bit. Vintage blades also tended to have the sweetspot slightly towards the hosel on the clubface.

But even within the category of vintage musclebacks, there are some that are better than others. Certain designs worked better than others so they have lasted the test of time and now are sought after by aficionados.

There's only so much they can do with the design of a true blade so the differences are going to be minor. I still think if you have the game to play modern blades, you'll probably be able to play with a vintage set, assuming you upgrade the shafts.

45 minutes ago, Buckeyebowman said:

Having read the title of this thread again, I will say that 30 year old blades can still be "functional", but they will be far from "optimal"!

This is pretty much how I feel about it. I can play golf with old blades, but I'll play better (and I'd rather play) with modern GI clubs. If money was my primary issue and I only had blades, I'd be out there playing with them, but if I can afford to buy a set of discounted previous model year clubs, I'd definitely try them out before I dismissed them.

Bill

“By three methods we may learn wisdom: First, by reflection, which is noblest; Second, by imitation, which is easiest; and third by experience, which is the bitterest.” - Confucius

My Swing Thread

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On 11/4/2017 at 6:57 PM, billchao said:

I don't think they're much more forgiving, but some changes in design have certainly made today's blades more playable. Modern blades typically have slightly more bounce and a more rounded leading edge so they don't have the tendency to dig into the turf as much as vintage blades. It's a minor difference but it increases the margin of error just a bit. Vintage blades also tended to have the sweetspot slightly towards the hosel on the clubface.

But even within the category of vintage musclebacks, there are some that are better than others. Certain designs worked better than others so they have lasted the test of time and now are sought after by aficionados.

There's only so much they can do with the design of a true blade so the differences are going to be minor. I still think if you have the game to play modern blades, you'll probably be able to play with a vintage set, assuming you upgrade the shafts.

This is pretty much how I feel about it. I can play golf with old blades, but I'll play better (and I'd rather play) with modern GI clubs. If money was my primary issue and I only had blades, I'd be out there playing with them, but if I can afford to buy a set of discounted previous model year clubs, I'd definitely try them out before I dismissed them.

Again, The difference is more than minor. I have actually played both types, modern blades are significantly more playable. 

Danny    In my :ping: Hoofer Tour golf bag on my :clicgear: 8.0 Cart

Driver:   :pxg: 0311 Gen 5  X-Stiff.                        Irons:  :callaway: 4-PW APEX TCB Irons 
3 Wood: :callaway: Mavrik SZ Rogue X-Stiff                            Nippon Pro Modus 130 X-Stiff
3 Hybrid: :callaway: Mavrik Pro KBS Tour Proto X   Wedges: :vokey:  50°, 54°, 60° 
Putter: :odyssey:  2-Ball Ten Arm Lock        Ball: :titleist: ProV 1

 

 

 

 

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My old, old Wilson 'Strokemaster' George Archer blades are very hard to hit compared to my MP-14's. Years ago I re-shafted the Stroke masters with some Dynamic Gold stiff flex shafts. Didn't help. The miss hits are really bad. The solid hits are few. My MP-14's are about 25 years old, but I view them as current as any of the new blades. Now the Wilson Strokemaster blades are not made from comparable steel to the Mizuno's, they have a strange swing weight with the super long hosel , and they were probably not top of the line in 1969. 

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  • 1 year later...
On 10/4/2017 at 1:02 PM, satchmodog said:

Interesting thoughts from all. It certainly seems to me that any new to newish club of any quality can out distance a 40 year old club. But my conclusion is not scientific at all. While I pushed my cavity backs and Perimeter weighted clubs further down range, it wasn't by much. Maybe 5 yards tops. That can still be my not swinging well enough after back surgery, who knows. But I will say this, the slice I developed once I picked up GI irons is gone with blades. But, I also have hit some balls of the end of the face with GI and had the ball go 170 yards. I tipped a few yesterday and I was lucky to get 170 feet. One went less than 60 feet. 

But I grew up on blades and personally feel they teach you golf properly. I just don't see how GI irons ever make you a better golfer. They seem to be technique band aids. By far, the most pleasant irons inswing are Hogan apex plus. They have smaller heads and seem to just rocket the ball where I want it to go. They don't punish you for mistakes as badly as these blades do but they still let you know your swing sucked. The GI clubs just don't seem to do that and I firmly believe they allowed me to build some bad habits while I was learning to swing again. I'm going to spend the rest of the fall with these 40 year old blades, remember my dad and I golfing as the 20th anniversary of his death approaches and enjoy the fact that I can still golf. 

I'd love to find a scientific way to measure the distance on these clubs vsbmy others, just for curiosity.

Hey there, I am new to this site, but agree with alot of what you say!!  I have hit newer clubs, and older ones.  I went out to the range last week and for kicks and giggles I hit a Wilson blade probably from the 80's or 70's, I think they were the Superpower blades with the small heads.  Anyway, I hit them so well I ordered a set on Ebay for 29 bucks, and cant wait ti use them.  I understand why the new clubs are awesome to use, but personally, I feel the same as you, in that I feel some sort of connection to being a young kid again playing with the old blades.  I am also cheap by nature and really dont want to spend hundreds on clubs, only to have them go 10 yards further.  Just not worth it to me.  Plus, I love the way the club sets up with the small heads when I am ready to hit!  Good post about your dad to, Thats the best stuff, nostalgia and honoring our homies!     

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About 25 years ago I had a similar issue.  I had a set of Wilson Staff blades that I played for years.  All my friends kept telling me to get something with new technology. So I got new irons and it took me a few months to get used to them.  The one thing I instantly noticed was the spin I was getting on the new clubs.  The grooves must have been really worn on the old blades. 

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1 hour ago, cristphoto said:

About 25 years ago I had a similar issue.  I had a set of Wilson Staff blades that I played for years.  All my friends kept telling me to get something with new technology. So I got new irons and it took me a few months to get used to them.  The one thing I instantly noticed was the spin I was getting on the new clubs.  The grooves must have been really worn on the old blades. 

I demoed a few new clubs the other day at Dicks Sporting Goods, and I was hitting a 7 iron 160, which is about 10 yards farther than I hit my current 1970s wilson blades.  However, I just really hate the way all the newer clubs have the bigger clubheads, and I hate the way it feels with an offset.  I really love the blades, and I noticed that when I play the blades, if I mishit it, the ball seems to stay in play far better.  I did like the Taylor made Speedbladez, but I cant see spending 400 bucks for clubs.  I am too cheap.  That being said, I really do dig the older clubs, and for me, feel is more important than a few yards.  So I got my Wilson blades in the mail three weeks ago, played twice with them and shot an 80 and an 81.  So for me, I understand what youre saying about the groves being worn out, as theres not really much you can do, other than sharpening them.  You are right with the spins off the new clubs.  After my demo it was really eye opening to see how advanced some of the new clubs are.  Lots of great ones out there.  

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  • 2 years later...
  • 5 months later...
On 10/4/2017 at 12:02 PM, satchmodog said:

Interesting thoughts from all. It certainly seems to me that any new to newish club of any quality can out distance a 40 year old club. But my conclusion is not scientific at all. While I pushed my cavity backs and Perimeter weighted clubs further down range, it wasn't by much. Maybe 5 yards tops. That can still be my not swinging well enough after back surgery, who knows. But I will say this, the slice I developed once I picked up GI irons is gone with blades. But, I also have hit some balls of the end of the face with GI and had the ball go 170 yards. I tipped a few yesterday and I was lucky to get 170 feet. One went less than 60 feet. 

But I grew up on blades and personally feel they teach you golf properly. I just don't see how GI irons ever make you a better golfer. They seem to be technique band aids. By far, the most pleasant irons inswing are Hogan apex plus. They have smaller heads and seem to just rocket the ball where I want it to go. They don't punish you for mistakes as badly as these blades do but they still let you know your swing sucked. The GI clubs just don't seem to do that and I firmly believe they allowed me to build some bad habits while I was learning to swing again. I'm going to spend the rest of the fall with these 40 year old blades, remember my dad and I golfing as the 20th anniversary of his death approaches and enjoy the fact that I can still golf. 

I'd love to find a scientific way to measure the distance on these clubs vsbmy others, just for curiosity.

I don't know, my Apex Plus seem to want to punish me occasionally, but I do like the look and feel.. I'm also approaching the 20th anniversary of my Dad's death,, 9/8/2002, my Mom passed this past year.. no golf memories with my Dad however, flying memories though..

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  • iacas changed the title to Are 30 Year Old Blades Still Functional in This Age?

I don't think the club heads are the problem, the shafts I should worry about. But well I wasn't playing 30 years ago. Started playing with a Spalding beginner set for 3 years than got Mizuno blades and used to have a 1 and 2 iron in stead of driver and 3 wood. So much have changed over the 20 years I have been playing. I never left the Mizuno irons, working on my 5th set I think but I kinda got away from the real blades, and game the JPX 921 Forged now, and 4 iron is the longest iron in the bag. Basically because I am not playing or practicing that often, and my bad strikes have much better results. Basically I recommend you look in that iron category, you can get good deals on a couple year old sets. My Irons are still forged so do have the soft feel and workability like a true blade, but gives the help when your just of center, I tend to get a little thin or from the toe, the drop-off is just less on those shots

Dirver: Mizuno JPX 825 9,5 Fujikura Orochi Red Eye Stiff 65 g.
3 wood: Mizuno JPX 825 14 Fujikura Orochi Red Eye Stiff 75 g.
Hybrid: Mizuno JPX 825 18 Fujikura Orochi Red Eye Stiff 85 g. 
Irons: Mizuno MP 59 3 / PW KBS Tour stiff shaft ( Golf Pride Niion )
Wedges: Taylormade ATV Wedges 52 and 58 ( Golf Pride Niion )
putter: Taylormade ghost series 770 35 inch ( Super Stroke slim 3.0 )
Balls: Taylormade TP 5

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  • 4 weeks later...

Great topic and comments.  I have maybe an unusual issue that I hope someone whose been down the road before can shed some light on....

So I play irons I bought new in 88', hogan apex redlines (7i @ 37), always kept head covers on them, as they are my jewelry. A number of the clubs have faces that have long since been overly worn (pw, 7i, 5i) and I have replaced the pw with a newer hogan blade pw (wow...what great grooves!)

I have been looking for new clubs to last another 20 yrs (or as long as I can swing) but been having issues when trying them out. At every indoor store net/range and at vendors tents on outdoor ranges, every time my swing goes absolutely to pot...zero rhythm and tempo...like its all gone. I went into a shop earlier this afternoon with $$$ in my wallet ready to buy new Mizuno's only to find I couldn't hit the target in the net even if I threw the club overhand at it!  Really, really frustrating. So I came home with my wallet still full.

In trying to figure this out a couple things come to mind...1) maybe I get overly nervous with others watching but I'm in my 60's (dont care so much what others think) and play fine in 4-somes without issue....or....2) all the newer clubs I tried are so much lighter than my hogan set that my timing is way off and the full-swing yips seem to be more prevalent. So I'm thinking I have swung my hogans with #4 (stiff) shafts in em for 34 years and have an in-grained tempo/timing set that would take a long time and thousands of practice balls to re-calibrate.

So maybe I need to be looking at not-so-new clubs that are heavier than new ones that are as close to "like new" condition....or have the hogan heads refurbished.

Anyone else experience this? Thanks in advance for comments.

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@Thomasredstone clubs can be made or altered to have heavier swing weights but you’re not going to find new ones like that sitting in stock at a store ready to demo. D-2 has been pretty much the standard for some time now.

If you like the Hogans that much just keep playing them. You don’t have to buy new irons and they make a good conversation piece on the course.

I mean if that money is really burning a hole in your pocket, you can buy me a new set of irons 😉

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Bill

“By three methods we may learn wisdom: First, by reflection, which is noblest; Second, by imitation, which is easiest; and third by experience, which is the bitterest.” - Confucius

My Swing Thread

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