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dbuck

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dbuck last won the day on October 2 2013

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About dbuck

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    Golfaholic

Your Golf Game

  • Handicap Index
    14.9
  • Handedness
    Righty
  1. I shot an encouraging 90. The score was encouraging because I had 8 pars, all except one were gir or very close, meaning puttable. One had a poor chip and a long putt. Only one drive requiring a chip out; 13 of 14 very playable.
  2. I think it depends on the fitting facility. Some businesses charge for the fitting upfront, then take that off the price if you purchase the clubs from them. In that case, I wouldn't see a problem if you elected to buy online. If the place does the fitting for free upfront with the expectation you will buy from them, I would think you would want to advise up front that you might not purchase from them. As the saying goes, honesty is the best policy. If I was buying new AP1's, I would be careful online, making sure of the reputation of the seller. I have actually been doing the same shopping that you have, and from legit retailers, there really isn't much difference in price. The going street price for new, 8 club sets of 716 AP1's seems to be about $899 regardless of the vendor. I occasionally see something on Ebay for maybe $100 less, but if I am spending that much, $100 is cheap for peace of mind. I have at least one fairly local vendor that has a loaner set, and does a complete iron fitting for $35, and takes that off the $899 if you buy from them. This advice is coming from a long time scrounger, who can't pass up a pawn shop or Goodwill looking for cheap clubs. I recently bought a 913D2 for $75 and love it, so I am not above going that route. However if I am going to the trouble of getting fit, and spending $800 on clubs, I will spend another $100 to do it right.
  3. If it is feasible, I would get both hybrids. A few years ago, I was in a similar situation and a buddy sold me his 20* and 23* hybrids. Two of the most versatile clubs and some of the best money I ever spent on golf. To answer your question, though, the 22* is likely the best candidate for the specific purpose.
  4. I started out playing laminate and then persimmon as I upgraded. Like everyone, I switched to metal in the 90's. About 8-10 years ago, I picked up a couple of nice Joe Powell persimmons at a pawn shop, and started playing them some, along with a set of Wilson Staff blades from 1979. It became a subset of my golf hobby-playing with "vintage" equipment. Most of my collection came from thrift stores, averaging around $6-7 per club. My current "gamers" include a Bert Dargie persimmon driver with a graphite shaft from about 1992, and PING Eye2 laminated maple 3 and 5 woods with the black finish and red inserts. When I am swinging well, I can play with buddies playing modern clubs, accepting the fact that I will usually be a little behind them on the drive. I have hit some drives with the persimmon that are close to my drives with modern clubs, but I must be swinging pretty good for me. I actually find the PING laminates to be relatively easy to hit. For the last several years, most of my golf has been vintage golf. It is fun; a retrace of my roots, and most satisfying to hear the occasional crack of one well struck. I recently picked up a Titleist 913D2, though and the forgiveness is addictive.
  5. So, I am a somewhat cynical old curmudgeon. I am loathe to adopt new things. I have been playing a lot of vintage golf (wood woods, forged blades) for the past several years, but keep a slightly more modern bag for the occasional scramble where I feel obligated to use the most mitigating equipment I have. I am basically a fairly consistent bogey golfer with either type of equipment. I have come to find out that the ProV1 works fine with vintage gear, and have come to like it for all play. I use the "practice" version for casual play, and the regular version for the occasional tournament or scramble. Most of my gear has been acquired used or discounted. My "modern" bag does include a set of Titleist DCI irons that I actually bought new -- 25 years ago!! It also has a Titleist 905T driver that I got at a pawn shop, but has served pretty well for several years. I recently picked up a used 913D2-an eye opener even for the most cynical. I am Jonesing for a newer version-there is still a lot of 915 product in the pipeline at attractive pricing. I am seriously considering actually getting fit for a set of AP1s (appropriate to my skill level, but something I would have scoffed at six months ago.) To paraphrase Dr. Lector in "Hannibal", it is good to try new things.
  6. In my "modern" bag, Driver, 16* Taylor Raylor, 20* and 23* hybrids, 4-PW irons(24* 4 iron and 48* PW), a couple of auxiliary wedges, and a putter.
  7. Really hard to better this suggestion for what you seem to be seeking.
  8. I am struggling to play to my 15 right now; most of us do. Mine was set from the regular tees, as are most high handicaps. It is not just the distance, it is what that distance brings into play. Considering 3 putts on every hole, and at least an extra shot to reach every green, my "perfect" score on such a course would be 108 with no "mistakes". Last time I played, I made a few mistakes.
  9. I went by a course I played a couple of weeks ago to look through the lost and found for an iron cover. Found it. I have had these clubs for 20 years, and honestly, they look like maybe 6 month old clubs. I have kept the stinking iron covers on them since new. I have another set that is their predecessor that is 38 years old and same deal. They could pass for 2-3 year old clubs. I am obligated to keep and replace the covers to keep them pristine. No. More. Oh I will continue with these two sets, but future irons will not wear covers. My current set of vintage irons have that nice patina. Of course they were old when I bought them. My next set of modern irons will acquire that patina, whether I buy them new or they come pre-patina-ized.
  10. Thanks for the responses. So, assuming that the swing path is neutral to slightly in to out, I should close the face at address to produce a push draw?
  11. Hybrid, then 4 iron to the fat part of the green.
  12. First, the short answer. Take the summer off, and the fall, and the spring. Golf can be a time hog, and you don't need anymore time hogs during your freshman year. You have picked two good alternative distractions, and both are beneficial to mind, body, and spirit, while giving you a break from your studies, and can be had in smaller blocks of time. We cannot all be college athletes, let alone professionals. I play guitar and sing, better than I play golf, but I will never be famous for music or golf. Still, I love them, and they give me something I can get nowhere else. I have been playing golf for over 40 years, and I still get a rush every time I stick a tee in the ground. I don't score that well, but I can hit it pretty good for an old guy. Although at one time in my late twenties/early thirties, I could play to an 8-9, most of my golfing life has been spent as a bogey golfer. I still enjoy it as much, if not more, than ever. The key is enjoy. If by next summer, you feel the itch, then come back, perhaps with a different mindset. Try to just enjoy the game. Hit a bucket now and then to keep the rust off. You may find that you want to practice more to maintain or improve skills, or you may find that the bucket once a week and 9 holes 3 or 4 times a month is enough. If you don't enjoy any of it, then don't do it. Let it be a passion, or a pastime, but not an addiction nor a master.
  13. I tried to search ball flight rules on this section, but timed out, maybe because search to broad. Anyway, I am hitting what I think is a push fade, -the ball starts right of target and fades. Contact is solid and the ball goes about as far as I can hit it with that club. This means I am--?
  14. I haven't tried the Snell, so mine are Titleist, Bridgestone, Callaway. My favorite premium ball is the ProV1; my favorite economy ball is the DT SoLo. This is a slight switch from a couple years ago, when I favored the B330 slightly over the ProV1. The mid-priced Bridgestones have never quite "clicked" for me, pun intended. I honestly had some thought between the Callaway and Wilson, believe it or not. I play a lot of vintage golf, and the Wilson at my skill level is not much different from the Callaway in vintage play. I like the Callaway better with modern equipment though. I find that day in, day out, regardless of the type of equipment, that I get better performance on good shots with the ProV1 than any other. I don't lose a lot of balls, normally, so now that I live closer to a Dick's, ProV x-outs may push DT's out of the bag. I need to get around to trying the Snells, I guess.
  15. In my vintage bag, I carry a 3W and a 5W. These are made of WOOD- usually laminated maple PINGs. The 5W is used both from the tee and deck and is one of the most reliable clubs I own. In my more modern bag, I usually carry an old 16 degree Taylor Raylor as my only fairway; the next club being a 3H.