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cristphoto

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10 Now on the Tee

About cristphoto

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    Maryland

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  1. I played the Maxfli XS Tour years ago which was an OK ball back in the day (similar to the Precept Extra Spin). But that ball hasn't been made in probably at least 15 years. I think it even came out before the original wound urethane Revolution.
  2. I would say the graphite shafts (in the woods) are constantly improving with new materials and quality controls as they aren't limited by USGA requirements. You will see some improvements with new clubs vs 10 year old equipment but usually the marketing guys can make claims the engineers can't fully deliver.
  3. In the past 15 years there have been many improvements. If nothing else the grooves on 15 year old clubs are probably worn out. Get something that fits you properly and you will not regret it.
  4. Make sure your bag is the two-strap type as that balances better. Don't carry more weight in your bag than necessary. I carry but on hot days I use my three-wheeler so I can bring lots of water. Do what your body can handle and don't overthink it.
  5. Your logic might work if you only play one course and can tune your clubs to it. But what do you do if you play other courses? Or play your normal course but on windy or chilly days? Or tee box moved way up or back? Or don't catch a solid drive? My thinking is to have minimum gaps between clubs so you can plan on most any circumstance. My personal wood set-up is 10.5 driver, 16.5 3/4 wood, and 22 degree hybrid so I have about 6 degrees between each club. Then 4 iron on up. Works for me.
  6. Correct. The hybrid shafts are .350. All others are .335. That's what my M4 clubs (driver, 3-wood, hybrid) measure.
  7. Actual rubber grips last much longer than synthetic grips. I personally use Royal grips (rubber) and can get about five years out of them. Maybe the pitching wedge or driver might show a little wear under my left thumb but that's about it. To me Golf Pride and Winn grips seem have the shortest life. Its like the material just dies and scrubbing the grips doesn't help. With my Royals I just take quick wipe with a damp cloth after each round and they're good to go.
  8. cristphoto

    cristphoto

  9. I got the M4 driver, 3-wood and hybrid last year. They replaced similar Titleist 913 set. What I noticed with the driver was the entire face felt like the sweet spot. When demo-ing them I looked at the face and could see I wasn't hitting every shot dead center but there was never the feeling of a dead-hit. Mitsubishi Tensei Red in driver and 3-wood and Fujikura Atmos Red in hybrid.
  10. If I recall you had to buy in bulk (a $900+ purchase) vs a single dozen. Since basically nobody has played these yet that's a real leap of faith.
  11. I bought a new set of i200's last year and love them. Great irons. Typically the immediate replacement models (i210) are a minor incremental upgrade. If you jump two or three models you may notice more difference. If you only find black dot irons and need red dot, you can send them back to Ping and they will adjust and paint the dot for a fairly cheap fee. A friend had this done and I believe he paid about $35 including shipping.
  12. I recall years ago when wood woods were still sold one company included a note saying they didn't recommend playing two-piece surlyn balls as they could cause damage somehow. Serious - not kidding. I think it may have been Powerbilt but that's just a guess.
  13. I play the 2016 Tour Preferred X and can get them online from the golf stores for $27-30. Typically one generation difference in a golf ball isn't very noticeable. The cost saving is however.
  14. If you work at a golf course typically you should be eligible for an employee discount. I know when I worked in a pro shop I would typically get about 30% off for clubs and 50% off for clothing (in the US).
  15. My guess is you're either gripping and regripping during the swing or you have aggressive cord grips (or both).
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