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About golfer2b2000

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  1. I have a Callaway mini driver, and I was thinking about replacing the shaft. The shaft takes an adapter. I am not seeing an adapter for the mini drivers but I do see them for just about every other driver that Callaway produces.My question is this. Are all these adapters standard, or do I need a special adapter to fit the mini driver???
  2. Yes, their site is not what it use to be, and I believe it will slowly fail. I know that my use of it has diminished, and will probably continue to do so. I use Amazon when I need to. I think its a much more trusted site, and whenever I had to return an item, it was much more easy to do so. And reaching them was a lot more easier than trying to reach someone on EBAY
  3. I had to contact EBAY and also PayPal. Contacting EBAY is no easy task. I don't believe you can reach them by phone if you have a problem. I finally did get in touch with PayPal, and after probably a month I was issued a refund.
  4. Yes, they are assumptions, and that is exactly what they are. But if they happen time after time again, there just may be some truth to them. It sounds like you are a firm believer in EBAY, and that's fine. I do not need proof. You dont need to have proof that a neighbors dog bit you. Usually the teeth marks are enough. You would'nt happen to be an attorney would you???☺️
  5. I use to use EBAY years ago, when it first came out. I even sold a few items. Never had a problem. The only real issue I had was last year when the item I won the bid on was no longer available. I was offered a replacement which I totally declined. It's upsetting to win an item that you wanted only to discover that the merchant has allready sold it out of one of his other outlets. I don't feel that is right either. But my issue is like I stated in the first part of this thread. Granted, you have basically two different types of people bidding on an item. In this case lets say a golf club and lets say its average going price is 200 dollars. You get a lot of people that start out bidding like 10 dollars, 20 dollars and so forth. These people are hoping to get something like this for next to nothing, and that rarely happens. If the merchant has 150 dollars invested he can't sell it for less than that and make a profit. So if the bid maxes out at 100 dollars, the merchant has lost 50 bucks. He can't stay in business doing this, so he has a third party that will keep uping the bid in hopes that the other bidder keeps advancing his bid. In this case to get him to bid at least 150 or more so the merchant makes money. If the third party wins the bid because no one bids more that the 150, the merchant pays him a small perchantage, and the merchant will hope to sell it to someone else. It's basically like a reserve bid for which I havent seen many times at all on EBAY anymore. They may have even done away with them... I liked the reserve bid, because I could decide even before I made a bid, if I was willing to pay at least the reserve price...
  6. I do not call it buyer friendly when you purchase an item from EBAY, and you receive it and it is not what you ordered. This is not EBAY's fault, but because they are the service, thats who I will go to. These massive sales centers do not just use EBAY. They have other stores, and if the item sells from another store before they can get it sent to you, they normally send you a replacement, which is usually not what you want. So Lets say a person bids on an item, and he has an emergency as to where he can't purchase the item. Is that fraudelent too???
  7. What I mean is this...If you bid on an item, and you are the high bidder, you are suppose to purchase the item from the seller. If you do not do so, EBAY can, and will put you on a blacklist where you are not able to bid on items in the future. This will probably not happen on the first occurance, but if it occurs numerous times, they mpst certainly will.
  8. Probably not, but its so easy to justify that merchandise gets misplaced. Some of these sellers do thousands and thousands of transactions. And EBAY does not want to lose these customers because they are their bread and butter. But let you win one bid, and don't send the money in, or basically decline winning the bid, and you wont ever have to worry about bidding again.LOL
  9. I just placed a bid on a set of irons, and again I was outbidded. These were used and identical to a set I missed out on yesterday that were brand new. The difference in the price between the new clubs, and the used ones were 40 dollars, plus the set of used ones that sold you had to pay an additional 20 dollars for shipping where the new ones were free shipping. I was also next to the highest bidder. I am not making rediculous bids either, but I am trying to get a nice set of clubs and save a few dollars. I have another set I will try tomorrow. Change my tactics, and bid a fair price. Lets see what happens...😁
  10. I understand this fully. If I decide what my maximum bid is going to be, and I am dedicated that I will not go any higher, if I lose the bid it's no big deal. I did sit right there in the final seconds just to see what happens.Some people do get caught up in the competition of needing to win the big at any cost. That's why sometimes items go higher than what they really should. I shouldnt get upset if I set my highest bid at like 200 dollars and see that someone got it for 205. And I am not upset as to what has happened. I just feel like there may be third parties out there that are working with some sellers to bid the bids up to a price where the seller is willing to sell the item. Then the third party gets a small percentage. I can't believe that a new driver where these major selling companies are selling at "BUY IT NOW" prices at lets say around the 250 dollar mark, are selling in an actual auction for 100 dollars less. It doesnt make any sense.
  11. But they do not disclose to you who the highest bidder is, so there is no way to contact them. You are right though. They may have a number of the same, identical items. But the thing is this. These are NEW items. Not used. Checking the "buy in now items", you will see that the number of different vendors are basically within 20 or 30 dollars of each other. On this paticular item I put in a bid of I believe 140 dollars. I was outbid and the item sold for 145 dollars. If you check the buy it now prices you cannot find this paticular item for less than 250 dollars. If this just happened once, I would not be as suspious as I am after this happened twice to me within a week...
  12. I truly enjoy trying different drivers, putters, and even iron sets. I know this doesnt help my game, but I am at an age where I just enjoy trying different clubs. If I don't score with them oh well. Recently I have been in a driver crave, and what better place to look for them than EBAY. So here is the story... I find a brand new driver for sale. I bid on it. Not a lot, but an average amount I would say.I am watching the timer from like 3 minutes till the end of the auction.In the last 5 seconds while I am in the lead, all of a sudden the bids go crazy and I lose the item by a dollar and a half...No big deal right... So I get an email stating that I didnt win that paticular bid, but there are other items similar to the one I lost the bid on that if I am interested, I can bid on...Sooooo, I click on the item to see, and this one is EXACTLY IDENTICAL to the one I just got outbid by. It's also by the same seller. So I being like I am, I bid on this new driver. Only this time I bid 25 dollars more. I watch the ticker like I am watching a Pittsburgh Penguins hockey game. I am on the edge of me seat... Once again, I am the high bidder until... 5 seconds before the end I again get outbid and lose the item by a measly buck and a half... I guess what I am getting at is I am wondering if this is purposely being done by a third party who just may be in contact with the seller, and if the seller does not get what he wants out of the club, or more, the third party bids the item up, but does not have to purchase it from the seller.. Anyone else ever have any similar thigs happen???FISHY???:)
  13. When I was a lot younger, in my early teens, I could not afford a half set of clubs, let alone a full set. I played with a 3 wood, 3 iron,7 iron, 9 iron, and a putter. I had 3 golf balls I remember. They were called Fautless, and the reason I bought them is because if I hit them into a lake or pond, they would float. I didn't realize though if you hit them into the middle of a lake that it would take forever for them to make their way to land. Anyway, I learned to hit those clubs different ways. Hood the 7 iron to produce a low boring shot, or open the blade up on a 9 iron to land it softly. Because of this I turned into a decent playing amateur golfer. You don't need a full set of clubs to play good golf, or score good. You just have to know how to play with what you have. In other words, you could give some people 30 clubs to play a round with, and their scores would not be any better...
  14. A gentleman I know has a set of MT 588 golf irons he is interested in selling to me. The shaft though is listed as stiff flex. I have been playing regular shafts for some time now, and not really sure if I should go into a stiff flex. I know that flexes differ from one manufacturer to another. My question is that can most people tell a difference between stiff and a regular flex? Who makes this shaft because I doubt if Cleveland makes them. Looking for a bit of advise from you fellows out there as to what I should possibly do. Thank you
  15. Getting fitted for a driver is probably the best way to go.But golf club fitters are like doctors. You can have good ones, and ones not so good. Also, how many times have you went out to a course to play a round and the driver you used yesterday has seemed to left you. Our bodies, and swings change like the weather. That's the fun thing about this game. I enjoy building a shaft and trying it in a driver and compare with my others.With the new adapters it makes it a lot simpler than heating, and pulling a shaft. Lead tape???What is that..LOL. Yes, I still do that sometimes still. Back in the days thats all we had. Just stick some out on the toe, or heel. You could easily hide it on the bottom so as not to be seen while you address the ball. I also seem to have better luck drawing the ball when I use a more lofted driver like a 12* Just because a driver is 12* does not mean you are going to sky the ball. You will in most cases probably add rotation to the ball, which does promote accuracy, but loss of some distances. By changing a shaft I am able to hit the ball lower expecially with a shaft that has a higher bend point..
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