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Posts posted by tefunk

  1. It may be worth starting with consideration of the AW you listed above (49*) that is specifically made as part if the Vapor Speed line that you are currently playing. That doesn't mean don't consider other options... But, there is already an AW specifically designed to work within that line of irons.
  2. I don't use a GW around the green (within 20-30 yards), between the SW, LW & Putter... I feel I have almost every shot covered. The GW is more important on full shots or longer pitch shots. (Then again, it could vary person to person). The important thing to keep in mind when choosing one, is that it splits the distance gap between your SW and PW (I.e. Why they call it a gap wedge). The only way to do that is to hit the range or a launch monitor and find out what fits best. As far as bounce, you don't really need a lot of bounce with a GW. I think around 6 or 8 would be typical.
  3. A few weeks back I asked my pro why he was not still on a tour, and how difficult was it to go from a +1 or +2 player to be on a tour. He said for him it was like going from a 15/16 handicap down to scratch all over again.

    Yea, wasn't Jerry Rice a +2 when he somehow got accepted (maybe because his name was involved in the tourney or something) to play in a web.com (nationwide at the time I think) event... And he shot like 15 over the first day?

  4. If you're real, and a +2, you still have a ways to go. A kid from my hometown, was a +5 in high school, was a top 3 college prospect, played in the US Open (but missed the cut), now playing D1 golf, and is ranked in the low 300's in the amateur rankings. So comparing the two of you, you have a ways to go
  5. About 3-4 years ago, I added/replaced a couple wedges that sure'd up that gaps in my short game. I do believe that knocked a couple strokes off my game. I was fit for a new driver a few months back, and my handicap has dropped 2 strokes in the past few months. I am more consistent off the tee since getting the new driver. So I think having "appropriate" clubs can help reduce the score/handicap. However, I do agree that improving the swing itself is a much larger piece of the puzzle
  6. OK, so I hit the short game practice area tonight. I picked a couple others balls in each comparable ball category. MTB - I compared the MTB to the Callaway HEX Black, and Titleist ProV 1x. All 3 balls were new, right out of their respective sleeves. What differences did I notice? Nothing! I hit all kinds of shots around the green, from 40 yards and in. There were no consistent differences between the three balls that I could tell. Get Sum - I compared the Get Sum to the Callaway Chrome + Soft, and Titleist NXT Tour. All 3 balls were new, right out of their respective sleeves. What did I notice? Only one difference... I was able to get a little better bite with the Get Sum and Callaway Chrome + Soft, vs. the NXT Tour. There you have it, my experience with both Snell balls, for whatever it's worth. My opinion, you're not going to find a better ball for the price within there respective categories. I'm now a new customer!
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  7. I.'m thinking many more better players play AP2's or the equivalent than blades. What do you think

    I agree, in fact it's pretty rare that any of them (if any) are playing a true blade. They're all playing some form of muscle back, or cavity back. In my opinion, the AP2 actually has a pretty good amount of forgiving properties for a "players" iron. There are really two perspectives on this topic, and I agree with both. - play the club that is best suited for your game/score (regardless if it's SGI, GI, or Players). - if you want to become a better, more consistent, ball striker... Using a players iron "could" help to achieve that (a commitment to practice and improving the swing would be a must going this route). Both in the end could ultimately lead one to becoming a better golfer

  8. I played the MP-33 for a year. For me, the logic was to become a better and more consistent ball striker... But I realized it would take a lot of effort, and my scores would suffer in the meantime. My game did improve quite a bit, and I became a much better iron player. I do not currently play blades, as I get better, more consistent, results from my MP-52. From personal experience, a blade style iron can help someone become a better player. However, it doesn't necessarily mean it's the best iron for that person. Along the lines of Lihu's comment, for me it was used as a training tool to make me better.
  9. Doesn't really solve your problem with that program, but... I just keep everything in excel and have created formulas to calculate everything once I enter the data. Maybe something like that could work for you going forward
  10. Played both balls today, 9 holes each. I was very happy with both balls. My Tour Ball - performed and felt great, from tee to green. I played 8 holes with one ball (lost it in the weeds off the 9th tee) only a very small "rub" (I can't think of what else to call it) on the ball, so very durable as well. It is very comparable to any tour level ball (but more durable). It does not "bite" quite as well as the HEX Black I'm used to playing, but it still seemed very good around the green.***see below*** Get Sum - performed and felt great, tee to green. My tee shots curved a bit less with this ball (which I warmly welcome on a bad day). I would compare this ball to the NXT Tour (which is a ball I play regularly), but I actually like it better (and for half the price if one buys the bulk pack). *** tomorrow night, I'll be at the range where my daughter takes lessons. They have a nice short game area, with all sorts of shots from 50 yards and in. I'm going to spend time playing a few dozen shots with each ball, and will report back.
  11. How much working are you talking about? A player who understands the basics of the golf swing can hit a draw or fade with most any club (maybe except a long one with draw bias). When it comes to more exotic shots than simple fade or draw, or a basic punch, get real. [COLOR=DAA520] @tefunk , [/COLOR]you have a 7.5 HDCP. @GibraltarRed and I have 20 + +, and will do better with reliable.

    Now that we've sorted that out... Versatile and reliable are two different things... Back to my original point. It doesn't make sense to count out or ignore a possible option, without trying it first. Once the options are exhausted, one will know what the best option is, without any question. And now I'll bow out, because if someone can't comprehend that by this point in the thread, they probably won't.

  12. I agree, a hybrid is more versatile and easier to hit. My 4 iron is 23, 3 iron is 20, took out the 3 iron and filled the gap between 3 wood and 4 iron with an adjustable hybrid.

    Easier to hit and more reliable... I fully agree. Versatile, disagree. It's a lot easier to work a 4i than a 4h, because a hybrid is generally going to be more forgiving. Keep in mind as well, we're talking about Rsi irons, which in the longer irons are going to be forgiving (and have more of a hybrid characteristic). We're not talking about a Titleist CB or something

  13. As for getting a 4i, that might be a rough club for a recently returned golfer to hit.

    "Might be" is key. No need to rule it out, until he tries it. When I was a higher handicapper, I hit a 4i better than a 4h, and still do. May not be the case for him, but it also may be... I think it would be more difficult to find a 4h that has a good gap distance from the the 5i, than it would be to find a 4i... The reason it's a better starting point for consideration. [quote name="WUTiger" url="/t/84499/newby-hybrid-help#post_1200830"] A 4H would be much more versatile than a 4i. [/quote] I disagree, I think a 4i gives one more versatility/shots than a 4h. However, that's if one is able to control that So I'm not discounting that a 4h might end the best fit... Just that the 4i is a better starting point for consideration

  14. Whether it's right or wrong, what has always made sense to me is to sure up the distance gaps from the shorter clubs, and work out to the longer clubs from there. So, It might make sense to start with trying out/demo a 4 iron (specially the RSi since that's what you already have). See what that does for your longer club gap and how it plays (I.e. Does it work for you). If the 4 iron works, then the next step might be looking into whether a hybrid or 5w works out best from there. If it doesn't work, then start testing out the 4h to see what that does for you.
  15. If it's over 40 degrees and the courses are letting people out, I'll golf. SLC has pretty mild winters (in the valley), I've played every month so far this year. Back east I'd typically be able to play up through November, and as early as late February... Just depends when the snow would start and end.
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