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BeCu

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About BeCu

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  1. That is awesome you were only out of pocket $18.
  2. Those were good club heads. I reshafted several sets back in the day. IF my memory serves the hosel id was .370 parallel tip. Most people back then wanted Dynamic Gold S flex (S300). Regardless whether they are taper tip (.355) or parallel (.370) you have many options. You could play it safe and just go with Dynamic Gold S300/S400's. Or get other brands (KBS/NIPPON) if you stay in steel shaft. Not a bad back up set to have in my opinion. I would suggest a nicer more modern grip offering. Just about any golf shop should be able to reshaft those 845's relatively easy once you pick the shafts you want. Good luck.
  3. So I have played / owned the ones you listed. All fine clubs. The Ping was my choice due to ball flight and accuracy for me vs the Callaways. The Ping was not the longest but I desired good consistent carry distance and could actually hit into greens without excessive roll out. Obviously everyone is different and many can hit others into greens fine, I just could not with the Callaways (but Ioved the total distance they yielded). But recently I hit a Cobra hybrid and now I am thinking about trying the listed in the link below. Good luck on your search. https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/p/cobra-king-f9-speedback-hybrid-satin-black-18cbrmf9hybrdblkshyb/18cbrmf9hybrdblkshyb
  4. I have played the Super Soft and the original Maxfli Noodle Long/Soft but not the 2020 Taylormade model. But I am interested in trying as well. Good article that details new model vs old. For the $$ appears to be good option for those of us prone to misplace a ball or two. 😀 https://www.windtreegolf.com/noodle-golf-balls-review/
  5. For competition I always quietly wait off the green to attest to how the others finish the hole. For casual rounds I may walk a little further but still where I can attest to playing partners (caveat if its a practice only type round/late afternoon time frame) but remain quiet out of respect. That is how I was taught and mentored. Both my sons played junior golf and I remember the first time we were called out by a tournament director about not "keeping pace". I was like, we are playing relatively fast, boys are making birdies what is the problem? The tournament director indicated that to ensure pace of play the boys needed to learn to hole out and go to next tee box immediately. I am thinking how do they learn to attest to their competitors score? Regardless that was the direction. When I caddied I would hang close to observe other players putt outs. I never have been comfortable with this approach but it seems more and more common.
  6. Don't know but here is a potential start for you. http://centralpagolfguide.com/golf/courses . Good luck
  7. So I don't have Mizuno's you referenced but I have hit them and played Mizuno in past (love the feel of Mizunos). I do currently game the I500 and have played/owned the I210. My two cents is that the I210's feel better but are a little less forgiving on my off-center strikes than the I500's. I get good distance or let me say it this way, consistent distances regarding my less than perfect ball strikes with the I500's. Enough of a difference that I went with them for my long/mid irons. The hollow back design I guess spreads the weight around a little better producing higher MOI. But I will be the first to say, the I500's do not feel as good to me as the I210's and definitely not like the Mizunos. At least to me. My decision was based purely on distance control and I am very happy to date with the I500's.
  8. Regarding Tier 3: " Learn to hit a chip shot with some forward shaft lean and without throwing the trail wrist. I'm amazed at how few people can do this, even if they're just hitting a shot onto a range with no real target, solely trying to "do" this motion. Learn how to make partial swings, particularly with wedges. " I have learned to practice this properly through instruction with video. Find a good instructor in which you can have these movements evaluated/critiqued. Both in person instruction (if available) and definitely video. Sometimes my perception was not reality. Video combined with instructors critique (draw the lines and emphasize areas of concern) greatly improved my understanding and IMO helped me progress steadily.
  9. Have reviewed comments in this thread. Several good ones. Yes you should get a wedge fitting IMO based on your distance gap needs (loft), type grass/course conditions (bounce/grind) and possibly the swing weight/feel (you may desire "like feel" from your iron set model and/or heavier). A quality fitting from a certified / experienced fitter can help you identify ideal specs regarding the wedges that you could game. My one caution from experience is regarding outdoor vs indoor fitting.I did not like the couple of indoor wedge fittings I have done. All I got was spin numbers from a perfect lie on the mat. Nothing representative of the various conditions on the course. Maybe that is enough for some but it was not for me. I bought a wedge that had no sole relief and had trouble opening face on the course in situation where I needed to flop. IF you can get outdoor fitting (chip, pitch, sand shots, flop shots, any wedge centric type shot you play) would be a bonus for dialing in the needed specs. Also, take the brand golf ball to the outdoor fitting your play.
  10. As a direct to consumer brand/business model club company they are getting positive reviews by many on the web. Have friends that say their customer service is really good. You can call and speak to them about model/club specs your're interested in. They also rave about their demo program. My only personal experience with DTC (direct to consumer) brand is with Hogan. I participated in a demo with them. Really like it when you can try before buying.
  11. I prefer any of my irons (mainly 8-lw) as needed depending on carry(pitch) and/or roll (chip) as that is how I was taught and practiced with for many years. When the chipper clubs got popular I experimented with early component (Hireko) chipper club heads (~35 or 42 deg loft as that what they were available in). Later I tried/practiced briefly with a Ping Chippo, Herbie's OnePutt wedge, Square Strike Wedge. While I get what each of the chippers were designed to do, the truth is there is nothing those could do that I could not do with regular irons and wedges. Admittedly a few of the chippers did appear to set up easier but while they all easily got the ball up and in the air, the problem I had was the roll out. I can predict each of my irons how far they will release with consistency, the chippers not so much. So I tell anyone that ask me about them, it depends on your area of need. IF you need help getting the ball up then yes those can possibly help. But I can hear an instructor saying, good technique and learning how the proper chip/pitch motion will do the same with clubs already in the bag. I don't like the chippers but I can see why some do.
  12. Agree with all @AdamC posted. Hopefully you can test the set make up you're interested in with a fitting and gap distance your clubs accordingly. My approach is the longest club I hit center strikes with that meet my distance gap (distances I expect each club to cover) requirements. And obviously the feel, swing weight has to be there. Good fitter, good fitting can help one accomplish that. Good luck.
  13. IMO its designed for producing a certain feel. I am definitely not an instructor so my comments are just based off my experiences and interpretation. IMO the instructors that use this "getting the club in front" is like what some instructors I have seen on Youtube say that they want the student to feel like the club is standing up, "tipping over" (Malaska term/Youtube videos). IF I try to do consciously stand club up/get club our in front and/or do what I think "tip" the club means, I come over the top. This not a swing thought I like or practice because I just don't feel what I think I should and/or I see exaggerated over the top movement in my videos. Therefore I focus more on using my weight shift feeling into lead knee for my transition to get my downswing started properly. So when I video my swing where I consciously practice "feeling" my lead knee move toward my lead big toe, my hands drop naturally in the backswing. So I did not have to feel my hands drop they just do it as a byproduct of the sequence/lead knee move. At least that is what I feel.....
  14. No your comments are quality. My only point was if I could do it over I would start with short game in order to build the long game. I think if one can learn to chip/pitch correctly then a good piece of the swing foundation is in place to swing properly long game to short.
  15. I agree with your first two sentences 100%. Don't know if I con'd myself 40 years ago when I learned to play but I did not have instruction. I have always been athletic, multiple sports and basically while I did practice short game a lot because that's what the older scratch golfers did. I followed their example as far as routine. What happened from lack of instruction was I learned to "time" my swing and yes it was flipping. Eventually I got to scratch. My short game was good as I learned to putt on bent grass fast hard breaking greens and I could chip, pitch and flop with a pw and sw. Had no lob wedges back then. 1/2, 3/4 shots were just getting creative based on where my ball was lying and how much green I had to work with. I say all that to say today, much wiser and with instruction I have re-learned how to chip/pitch with hands leading. My long game is better as far as accuracy today in my 50's because I have a repeatable more consistent swing. I believe that one needs to learn today about the pivot and how to really compress the ball. Modern technology and instruction could have helped learn how to properly strike a ball and I would have flipped/timed my swing like I did. Difference in me as a flipper playing scratch golf for 25 years was I had a great short game and timing/athleticism. I was lucky and will say consistency was my challenge (I was either at par or posting ugly scores -- no consistency. By mid 40's it didn't work anymore. I had to make a decision and learn how to properly swing the club. Had I learned to swing the correct way (build lag and release club properly) when I was younger I might could have gone further than I did. I believe the short game with the simple pitch shot is where I should have learned the proper striking of the ball. Not with the driver on the tee box or fairway woods.
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