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hansmixer

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Everything posted by hansmixer

  1. Unfortunately for me, I'm a lefty, so finding a 4W is almost impossible. But it's definitely a good idea.
  2. Hi everyone, I've decided to go to a 4 wedge "system" as described by David Pelz in his "Short Game Bible". I noticed that the weakest part of my game has been from 100 yards in, and I'm taking steps to fix it like spending most of my practice time chipping and also moving to a 4 wedge system. My current set-up is as follows: - driver 10.5' - 3W 15' - 5W 18' - 3H 20' - 4H 23' - 5i - 9i - PW 47' - GW 52' - LW 56' - SW 60' - putter I was thinking of dropping the 5W and adjusting the 3H to 19'. My only question now is: which club do I pull out? I played a practice round (no score) but I had 15 clubs in the bag as I wasn't sure what club to drop. Any suggestions? Hans.
  3. Hi Erik, Thanks for the comment. I tried most of the suggestions you mentioned: taking a few clubs (2-4 depending on where I was and what I might possibly need next), walking to my ball, and encouraging my playing partner to go to his ball. After my shot (which I played when I was ready), I walked promptly to my ball for my next shot (or putt), using the clubs that I had with me. As I signed the "non-slow play" promise, I was trying to get our group to play a bit faster - not so much rushing the players, but encouraging everyone to take their shot if they're ready and if it's safe to do so. Is there anything else that can be done? Maybe you (or someone else on staff) could post an article on strategies to using a golf cart, expanding on some of the ideas you mentioned? For example, I'd love to know where some recommended
  4. Hi everyone, I was wondering what your thoughts are on walking vs. "carting" (i.e., riding the golf cart) when on the golf course. Normally, I like to walk while playing golf, but this weekend, I played at a course that had a mandatory "golf cart" rule. At first, I thought "nice" as it was quite early in the morning (6am tee time). Also, I haven't used a power cart in almost four years so it was a bit of a novelty to try using a power cart again. After the round, I'm not sure that I like the golf cart. Here are some reasons/observations I had about using the golf cart: - I'm not sure using the cart speeds up play : I noticed that my playing partner and I were driving around the course quite a bit either looking for balls or avoiding "protected" areas (i.e., the green or other environmentally protected spots). Often, I just grabbed three or four clubs and walked half of the fairway to my ball because it was easier. - I didn't pay as much attention to my ball . Maybe it's just me, but I noticed that I didn't pay as much attention to where my ball landed, thinking that I'd be able to find the ball easily because we can just drive up and find it. When I walk, I can pace out distances (I know it's not very accurate) and I had a more difficult time judging distances after driving up to the ball. - Harder to get into a "rythym" . When I walk, I find that walking between shots (and carrying my bag) helps me maintain a more even level: I don't get too high after hitting a good shot and I don't get too upset/low after screwing up a shot. Walking helps me take a moment to breath. The physical "exertion" also seems to help get the blood flowing and allows me to get into "game mode". When in the cart, the round just felt very ... jerky. I'd hit a shot, hop on the cart, and drive. I just didn't get a sense of flow to the round. Also, since it was a bit cool in the morning, being less active didn't help in keeping me warm. I'm not a golf "purist" by any means, so I don't agree with an argument that a cart "ruins" the game. I'm just not sure that the golf cart is that great. This course had a 15 minute rule per hole and so we finished at just over 4 hours 15 minutes (which is the course expectation). I was quite shocked because I expected to finish much faster since we were required to use a cart. [As an aside, I did my best to speed up the pace of play, but couldn't keep up my end of the "slow play promise" I signed here. I did my best and it killed me to play a 4+ hour round.] Hey, I'm also the first to admit that there are some advantages to using a cart: - can be less physical strain than carrying your bag (but you could use a pull cart) - can be cooler and more convenient in very hot and humid weather - great if distances between holes is far - great in extrememly "hilly" courses (especially if combined with the previous point) Am I missing something about using the golf cart? Does anyone else prefer to walk instead of use the golf cart? If others feel the same way, maybe we should start a "walk when possible" promise...
  5. Not sure what you mean by "reasonable". Here are some thoughts on carry/stand bags that I'd recommend: Ogio bags are nice. The Woode club organization system is excellent and the bag has quite a number of well thought out features. I can see that the company has put some thought into what a golfer wants/needs when using a bag. My only criticisms of their carry bags is that they are a bit heavy (Ogio Edge). I wouldn't call the price expensive, but it's definitely not "cheap" either. Ogio seems to make good quality bags and seems to incorporate some new technologies (e.g., the Schwing carry system). I don't think you can go wrong with an Ogio bag. The new Ping bags (Hoofer Vantage) are similarly priced with the top of the line Ogio bags. They don't have as many features, but are lighter and have more protection for the metal bars that push the stand legs out. I'm going to get a Ping bag next because of the lighter weight and balance of features. Doesn't seem to have as many features/pockets as a similarly priced Ogio, but I'm starting to carry less stuff and want something lighter so I can move around the course faster. I haven't used a Sun Mountain bag, but they seem to be well made with a ton of features. Most of my buddies seem to use Titleist bags and I can't see anything wrong with them. Best bet is to go to a golf store and "try" a couple out. Ask some of the sales guys which they recommend (and why) and also ask what sells the best.
  6. Interesting comments about following the rules. For me, it's quite simple. If I keep score, then I follow as best as I know how - there are quite a few obscure rules in that rule-book... If I'm not keeping score, either during a practice round or playing a social round with my retired parents, then I just go "with the flow" and try to move our group along and focus on other parts of my game.
  7. Eric, Thanks for the thoughts and information. I've found that I like Pelz's approach to putting and now the short game. The 3x3/3x4 idea makes sense and takes the guess work out. I'm not sure that I know how to hit a 60' wedge just now, but I'll work with my golf instructor this season to see whether 3 or 4 wedges is better for me. I currently have a 47' and 56' and am likely to add a 52' to fill in the gap. I'm figuring I'll get more immediate use out of a 52' than a 60' at this point. Maybe I'll try 3 wedges for a season and evaluate if I need a 4th - maybe even try 4 wedges next season to see if there are any noticeable benefits. If I decided to go with 4 wedges, I'm not sure what club I'd drop - probably a 5W. Again, thanks for the information. I'm glad to see that people actually use Pelz's ideas. I used to carry a small attached to my bag that listed the distances for each club. Maybe I'll need to do that again, but with the wedges.
  8. Signed. I played my first 5 hours/round) and am considering not playing at 4.5 hr courses. I've pretty much stopped playing on weekends or holidays because that's the worst time. Death to the 4+ hour round of golf! Hans.
  9. Like the other posts, I haven't had any problems using the Zero Friction tees. I originally read about them here on the Sand Trap's review of Zero Friction tees and decided to try them out. I've been using them since early 2006 when they became available here in Canada. I haven't had to buy tees since, even after splitting half of the package with my sister. She hasn't had to buy any tees since then either. Honestly, I'm not sure how this company makes money considering I don't need to buy any new tees. I figure one package (50 tees) can easily last two if not three years. I play about 3 rounds every two weeks. After three rounds, I might need to get rid of one tee because it gets a little bent after an iron tee shot. Otherwise, these things last forever. I'm not sure if these tees actually make my shots go farther, but it sure can't be any worse :)
  10. Hi all, I'm trying to get an idea about how many wedges to carry. I was reading David Pelz's Short Game Bible and noticed that he recommends players carry 4 wedges. His recommendations are: a very weak PW (50'-51'), SW (55'-56'), LW (60'), and XW (64'). When I watch golf programming (i.e., The Golf Channel or other broadcasts), I keep hearing that amateurs should not play a high lofted wedge (60+), but Pelz suggests using a 64' (assuming you can even find one). Basically, Pelz argues that larger gaps in the woods/long irons will not affect your score as much as having more precision in the short game. Having more precision because of 4 (or 3) wedges gives you more options. But, playing a 64' wedge seems to go against all of the other "conventional" wisdom. Even playing a 60' wedge seems a bit out there. Any thoughts? I play about 3 rounds of golf every two weeks and my goal this year is to spend 50-60% of my practice time on the short game. I'm a mid-capper (mid-high 80's) and I'd love to get any advice or thoughts on this 4 wedge idea - positive/negative or otherwise. Any thoughts on this? Hans.
  11. How's the payment handled? Paypal?
  12. hansmixer

    Logos Down?

    My biggest pet peeve is when people give you "golf tips" about your swing and how to play the game during the round. It's one thing when I *ask* (a better player) for a tip, but I hate it when people start giving out free "advice". I know I just hit a poor shot - there's no need to tell me what was wrong with my swing (especially when yours is not better). I suppose my second biggest pet peeve is when people don't follow the rules and etiquette of golf and then record their score(s) and start bragging about how well they're playing. Just this past week, I played a round with my mom and some family friends. The other person took three mulligans off the tee (wild slice into the bush) and then proceeded to score a "par" on a par 4. The worst part was when they asked for my score (bogey) and started to get all smug - "oh bogey...". I know that I don't know all of the rules of golf, but I try to be as honest about my play as I know how (i.e., no mulligans, no improving my lie, following all of the rules that I know, etc). Anyway, I'm not sure what game some of these people are playing, but it sure doesn't seem like it's golf. Those two things coupled together just drive me crazy. Everything else doesn't really bother me.
  13. Thanks for the feedback. It's good to know that other people are tinkering too :) But, I think that I agree with Erik's earlier post about the backswing: I guess my challenge has been that my golf instructor clearly wants me to develop a two-plane swing. I don't have a problem with that. But, now that I look at my "bad swing tendencies", I wonder if my body-type and "natural" swing is more of a one-plane swing. My major challenge has been that while I try to go for a classic two-plane swing, I tend to rotate "flat" and need to remind myself every so often that the arms/hands need to go "up" not "around". I wonder if my body is trying to tell me that I'm not a two-plane person. Who knows... That's partly what I love about golf - there's always something to improve and learn (but it can be dang frustrating at times...)
  14. I have hit the Cleveland CG2 and my impression was that the irons are very soft, easy to hit, and are long (I didn't realize the lofts were a degree strong). My overall impression was that while the clubs are well constructed and designed, I just felt that the CMM material felt a bit "mushy". I just didn't get a sense that the clubs were as "solid" at impact as other clubs that I've hit recently. I haven't hit the Titliest 704CB, so I can't offer a direct comparison. But, I don't think you can pick a "bad" set with either of these companies.
  15. I was wondering if anyone (or any people) can help explain the main difference between the one and two plane swings. Recently, someone I know mentioned that he switched from a two to a one plane swing. Ever since, I've been doing some reading on the subject (mostly articles on the Internet), trying to figure out a) which type of swing I utilize, and b) which is "right" for me. Unfortunately, I haven't really been able to find an answer to either of the questions and seem even more confused. There's a website that's devoted to the one-plane golf swing ( www.oneplanegolfswing.com ) where you can get some additional information. You can also read a Golf Digest article on the topic with some good pictures and explanations. Just keep following the "continue article" link towards the bottom of the page until you get to the end. I'm having some difficulty understanding the differences between the two swings. From the photos and breakdown of the swings, the only difference that I can see seems to be in the backswing and transition - the arms (and thus club) in the one plane swing seems to be "lower" than the two plane swing. Based on the descriptions and photos provided, I feel as if my swing is somewhere "in-between" (a one-plane set-up but then have a two-plane swing when I look at my positions in the mirror). With a golf instructor, I've basically re-built my swing after taking a few years off (and developing some really bad "over-the-top" tendencies). I haven't had a chance to discuss this with my instructor (yet), but I thought I'd see what I can learn beforehand. I'm curious to know what others think. From what I can tell, the majority of golf instruction about the golf swing seems to be more in the two-plane mold. Thinking back on what my golf instructor is having me do, I'm pretty sure I'm developing a two-plane swing. But, based on the photos in the two articles I listed above, I feel like the descriptions (especially the set-up) doesn't really apply to me (or at the very least, I can't recognize myself). Do you agree with the author's recommendations about the one/two plane swings (from the Golf Digest article)? VS. I'd be curious to hear what everyone thinks about this idea of a one vs. two plane swing. I've been reading the other threads in the Swing Tips section and it seems like there's quite a bit of knowledgeable guys out there. Unfortunately, I haven't read any posts on this particular topic. I'd love to hear your thoughts, comments, and explanations.
  16. I used to have balance issues as well (probably due to taking a few years off and then developing a "slide" without even knowing it). What helped was to do some exercises at home/the gym. I found some light weight work (mostly legs) and doing some work on the abs really helped establish a strong "foundation". You could try something like Titleist's MyTPI (you can read Erik Barzeski's review from a little while ago). I haven't tried a balance board, but I would expect that using the board could only help your balance. My golf instructor said that one of the reasons why people have issues with balance could be because of weak muscles in your lower body/core so that you have difficulty getting into and maintaining your form during the golf swing. I know this was the case when I started making wholesale swing changes. My body wasn't used to the motions and positions and I found myself losing balance and feeling very tired. Some weight work and general exercise helped. Hope this helps.
  17. Excellent topic. I used to just go out and hit balls, then go do some chipping and then some putting. Last year, I read a book by Annika Sorenstam's coach called " Every shot must have a purpose: How Golf54 can make you a better player " (links to Amazon.com site) and have started to change how I practice. The book has some excellent practice routines and suggestions. I don't do everything, but I've taken bits and pieces. For example, I spend more time warming up (getting the heart-rate up and then doing 10-15 minutes of stretching) than before. Next, I spend some time just getting a feel for my "swing" that day by using a short iron (usually 8 iron). After I feel "warmed-up", I start the practice session. According to the author, you should practice how you intend to play. Just going and hitting balls does not in any way mimic golf - the author says that most people learn how to hit balls, but don't practice "golf". What I've picked-up is that after my warm-up, I only take one shot per club, switching between a "long" and a "short" club - to better simulate what playing on a course would be like. Then, I practice hitting a wood/driver, a mid/long iron, and then a wedge. I've also started to be more intentional about each swing - before I would just focus on making solid contact and watching the ball flight. Now, I'm taking aim and then trying to hit it with each club. I practice hitting partial shots with wedges as well. The whole point is that we don't usually hit the same club several times in a row when we're out on the course - so why do we practice like that? All of this usually takes about 30-45 minutes (depending on the size of the bucket). To finish up, I spend time 15-20 minutes at the putting green. In total, I spend about 1 hour per session and try for a minimum of 2-3 practice sessions per week. I don't have too much time, so I alternate between a full 18 and then 9 holes each week. After each round/half round of golf, I identify things that I want to improve and then work on those during the next practice sessions. At the next practice session, after my warm-up, I may spend 10-15 minutes working on one or two things that I identified during the previous round before doing a "simulated" round (as described above). I'd recommend the book. It's a short and easy read. Mostly focusses on the mental approach, but has some excellent suggestions on how to play and also how to practice. Hey, if it's good enough for Annika, then it's definitely good enough for me.
  18. That's a great suggestion. I've always been a "morning" golfer because I hate playing a 5 hour plus round of golf (and waiting). Also, I've been worried about not finishing the round. Now that I think about your suggestion, not only will it might help me get in a few more rounds of golf (awesome!), but it may help me make better use of the golf that I do play. Now that I'm using the end-of-day round for "development" purposes, I won't be afraid of playing a partial round - thanks.
  19. Your suggestion sounds great. Unfortunately, all of the fields that I know of (parks and schools) explicitly ban "playing or practising golf". So, that idea is pretty much out. I think I can do something like that in my backyard to determine different wedge shots (a la Pelz). It will mostly be partial shots (but that's better than nothing). Anything longer than 75 yards might be tough in the backyard. Thanks for the suggestion.
  20. Hi, I was wondering if anyone has any advice on the best way to determine the distance you hit the ball using each club (i.e., club yardage/distance). 1. I've always thought about the total distance (carry + roll) for each club. But, I heard a golf pro (on the golf channel) mention that the only stat you should know is the carry distance. Do you think this is right? I would think that you should know *both*. 2. What's the best way to determine the carry distance? I've been going to the range and trying to "guestimate" the distance based on a group of shots (I hit 10-12 shots and ignore the two best and two worst). But, when I go to the course to play, I find that the distances (based on the range) are not correct (either too short, or too long). Someone told me that the problem is that the range uses different balls (i.e., made to last, not perform) and are "dead". This person suggested that I add 10-15 yards for each club. But, another person said to ignore completely the driving range results because the yardage markers should not be trusted. Instead, the distances should be determined based on actual course play (but, that assumes you can get accurate readings based on sprinkler heads, etc). I suppose the new laser range finders (or even GPS devices like the Skycaddie would be very helpful). Finally, one other person suggested using a launch monitor to determine distances. Can you use these for things other than driver/woods? I'm not sure if the cost would be worth it. I know that golf pros have access to driving ranges and practice using their actual ball and have access to a great number of other aids. What should amateurs use? Any suggestions would be very helpful. I'd like to hear what people think. Hans.
  21. I wouldn't worry about these clubs. I've tried them out extensively in a simulator and at the range and found them very easy to hit. If you have anything resembling a decent and consistent swing, these clubs will be no problem getting the ball in the air.
  22. Still using my original "starter" set made by Excalibur golf. I'm getting serious about golf now and over the past few years spent my $$ on lessons instead of new equipment. I figure I should have a decent swing before upgrading.
  23. Thanks for the suggestions - even though they are somewhat conflicting :) I would probably tend to agree more with Erik because my main motivation for new clubs is because I've "maxed-out" using my current clubs. But, I can see what Sheriffbob is saying. In terms of a handicap being in the mid-teens, yeah, I can understand the concern. As I mentioned earlier, my problem hasn't been with my irons, as I make good contact and moving the ball in a (more or less) straight path. My problem has been with the "big stick" and the short game. I can't seem to stay in the fairway when hitting with my driver and/or woods. When I get close to the greens, I just don't know the proper way to get the ball close. My instructor and I are going to spend this year and next working on hitting woods and on the short game (20/80).
  24. I'm trying to decide between the Mizuno MP-60 and the Taylor Made RAC LT and would appreciate any thoughts you might have. Both are designed to provide a little bit of forgiveness while providing the ability to shape shops. Any thoughts on how the RAC LT compares with the MP-60? I've tried both out extensively at the range and in a simulator and like both for different reasons. The RAC LT is definitely easier to hit and is more forgiving on "miss-hits". But, I found that the shaft seemed a bit "whippy" - as if the club head was getting out in front of me during the swing (regular shaft). I was able to hit the Mizuno MP-60 longer and more tightly bunched than the RAC LT (by about 5-10 yards). Unfortunately, I found that on days when my swing was "off", the clubs were far more difficult to hit (obviously less forgiving than the RAC LT) with more dispersion. I did, however, love the complete feedback that the forged Mizuno clubs provided - wow. In the long run, the extra feedback may help me improve my swing, and thus my game because I know exactly what my swing is doing at contact. Any thoughts on how I should decide on a set of clubs? I'm getting serious about my game and am continuing to take lessons to improve systematically all the parts of my game. I'm shooting high-80's/low 90's right now because I can't keep my drives out of the trees or rough stuff - working straightening out my driver/woods is my goal this year. Anyway, any thoughts you might have on either the RAC LT or the MP-60 would be very much appreciated. I'm trying to find a way to determine which one to buy. I figure that I can't go wrong with either of the two sets as they both seem to be well constructed. You can read a previous Sandtrap.com review of the Taylor Made Rac LT posted by Erik Barzeski/Ed Koster.
  25. I was wondering if anyone has had a chance to try out the new Titleist 695.CB irons. If so, how do they compare with the Mizuno MP-60. I haven't been able to find a set to test yet - I'm not sure if it's a Canada thing. Based on the specs, the 695.CB is about 1 degree stronger (3-PW) and has less offset throughout the entire set. Is there any other difference that you can tell? I get the feeling that both clubs are aimed at "serious" golfers who want a bit of forgiveness but also want to be able to control the ball. Any thoughts? I know that most of the SandTrap staff are Titleist guys, so I'm hoping a review will be forthcoming shortly :)
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