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Gapwedge

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About Gapwedge

  • Rank
    Golfaholic
  • Birthday 11/30/1952

Your Golf Game

  • Handicap Index
    5.3
  • Handedness
    Righty

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  1. Seriously, it does not take a pro to regrip a set of irons. If nothing else YouTube it for instructions and save yourself some money. I used to do with 2 sided tape and lighter fluid. Save yourself some $$. BTW, great get on the MP14's.
  2. 2 things I look for in a putter is feel and length. For feel I like a putter with a swingweight of at least D0 to D2 with an insert. The swingweight range will vary from C5 to D6. A heavier feeling head for me offers better distance control. I have used a Bulls Eye for years and recently switched to Ping Anser 2 Scottsdale with a swingweight of D0 and 34". I am less concerned about loft and lie. This is one of the most subjective club purchases you will make next to a driver. I am also going to experiment with a Winn mid size paddle grip as my hands are beginning to get a little stiff
  3. Good point, but it is easier said than done. Thinking ahead is something I need to work on eliminating.
  4. The good thing is you noticed your uneven divots and your ball path to ask about the lie. Your lie change will make a big difference in your game. So many golfers buy irons off the rack and never have them fitted. I agree spot check your 3 or 4 and 9 too, but I am guessing those will be adjusted to match your 6. The 6 iron is the typical fitting club.
  5. I just had the DG Spinner W+ shafts installed in my 2 Mizuno MP R12's 52* and 56* by The Golf Works. I play mostly on Champion Bramuda greens which can be fairly hard at times. I will report back once I get a chance to put them in play. I have the S300's in my irons so there should not be much adjustment.
  6. Having played 6 rounds with the 69's I would not want to make that call yet one way or the other as the 32's are great clubs. However, I like the design of the 69's better. Both stll deliver that buttery feel on solid contact, but if you made me choose 1 I would pick the 69's. If it were me I would get your 32's refurbished at The Golf Works, get a set of 69's and keep your 32's as a back up set. My son plays with my 32's ( though he now thinks they belong to him). You would make the transition without any trouble.
  7. I was going to ask what ball you were using also, but I would personally get the proper shafts to change ball flights rather than using a particular ball. I base my ball type on putting feel and short game performance. What are the lofts set to on those irons? I am not familiar with them. I use the S300's in my Mizuno's and I get great penetrating ball flight. Not sure why the S300's would perform any different in your Wilson Staff's unless the lofts are set differently. Good looking set of irons so I hope you get the ball flight you are seeking.
  8. I don't know how much a cavity back club can be adjusted for lie, but going from regular lie to 3* upright is asking a lot for a non- forged iron. I am also making a guess that Ping stiff is really a firm which is somewhere between a stiff and regular. Adding a 1/2" will change the swing weight some. What swing weight did the fitter recommend? Ping irons are typically around D0. Just some things to think about. Just as important as a proper fitting is getting lessons from a teaching pro. You did not say how serious he was about learning the game. There are other more qualified to comm
  9. I have been playing Titleist since the balata days. I have tried many other brands, but have always come back to Titleist. I agree with several of the above posts that one should select a ball from the putter / short game back to the longer shots. Depending upon the greens I play and time of year I will change from V1X to V1. I like them both, but most rounds are with the V1X.
  10. Informative review. I am currently playing S300's, but would like to test drive the KBS'.
  11. Ahhhh, but it does end. And though I have the freedom and money now I would not miss the years I spent raising my 2 kids. Frustrating at times? Yes. Short on money? You bet. But I would not trade those years for anything. Enjoy it. Golf is something you can play your whole life.
  12. Knowing club distances are important. However, think your way around the course. Example, you have a short par 4 that a good tee shot with a driver leaves you with less than 100 yards to the green. But let's say there is water on the right and trees on the left with a less than generous fairway. Is your driver your most accurate club? Probably not. Hit a 3W or 20* hybrid, lay up and hit a 8 or 9 iron still giving yourself a chance of birdie, but a safer play off the tee. Thinking your way around the course will save you strokes. Leave the ego to your opponent.
  13. First of all congrats on breaking 90 and setting your goals now to break 80. Buying cavity back clubs used is a good way to go if you are on a budget as it takes some real abuse to make the club heads unplayable. I cannot help you if you are looking at only TaylorMade irons. However, a used set of Pings can be had for a decent price as they continually bring to market new models every year. A used set of Ping G5s or G10s would be a good set for example. Expect to have the grips changed (changing them yourself is not a huge task). Good luck in your search.
  14. I used The GolfWorks to refurbish my first set of blades (PowerBilt Scotch Blades 2-PW). They did a great job including painting back in the original colors the symbol and name on the back of the iron heads. I now have them on display (still keeping the plastic on the heads). I got them in 1967. Wilson Staff blades were in high demand back in the day. I got to hit a 5 iron back in the early 90's from a teaching pro. Aren't they small compared to the newer blades of today? I looked at my PowerBilt 2 iron the other day and it looked like a 2" butter knife.
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