georgep

Finally! After 18+ months of trying, I recorded a No-Sixes round last weekend. All told: 9 bogeys, 8 pars, 1 birdie = 79 (par 71). It wasn't a spectacular round, just fairly steady. One under on the three par 5s; eight over on the 11 par 4s, one over on the four par 3s.

Rae's Creek is filling up. Wow!

One of the more impressive 2-putt pars I've seen in a while.

That pin on 15 looked like it was almost on the 16 tee! I don't recall it ever being that far over. The water on 16 could actually become a concern with the pin there. Interesting.

It’s been a decade since my last Newport Cup appearance. Would love to join the fun again if it works out. Vegas, baby!

https://thesandtrap.com/b/review/callaway_apex_hybrid_review As you found, there should be some great deals out there right now on the 2016 version as the 2019 is coming out.

Product Name: Birdicorn Divot Tool + Ball Mark Product Type: Multi-Purpose Ball Mark Repair Tool Product Website/URL: https://birdicorn.com/ Cost: $25 (currently on sale for $22) Ratings (out of 5): Quality: 4 Value: 4 Effectiveness: 4.5, Does a lot. Most of it pretty well. Durability: 5 Esthetic Appeal: 5 My Member Review The Birdicorn is in a crowded space and one that, at least on the surface, does not lend itself to much room for innovation. I mean, what are you going to do to improve the divot tool? A usable ball mark repair tool has to work the way golfers expect it work and it needs to fit in a pocket. It must be easy and effective to use, and, while being carried, it can’t be prone to sticking its users in the leg (or someplace worse). And if it doesn’t meet those expectations it has to sufficiently motivate users to change their behavior. Birdicorn has found a way to differentiate itself, not by creating a new way to fix a ball mark, but by doing a whole bunch of things that other divot tools don’t do. It’s a ball marker, it holds a club or cigar, it’ll open a beer bottle, it cleans grooves, it slices, it dices, … OK, not those last two, but it will fix a divot quite adeptly. For me that’s the main selling point of the Birdicorn, it packs a lot of functionality into a pretty small package. Like others, I consider some of those functions less compelling than others, but, still, they are there to use if you want them. In descending order of importance to me, here are mini-reviews of the Birdicorn’s functions: 1.) Ball Mark Repair: If a divot tool doesn’t make it easy to fix a ball mark well, forget it. Happily, the Birdicorn does a great job of cleaning up the damage we do on the green. Even making quick work of those craters that result in soft conditions (which I’ve seen a little too much of this summer). The short “tine” that provides the bottle opening function can even be employed to help close the largest ball marks that much faster. It’s light, fits easily in the pocket and doesn’t poke me when I bend over to tee up a ball. High marks. 2.) Groove Cleaner: I was surprised to like this, but it does a great job of loosening soil that can get compacted into grooves, particularly at the range when many (most?) of us don’t clean our clubs on every shot. A tee will do this, but the softer tip of the tee tends to dull too fast. 3.) Ball Mark and Holder: The Birdicorn ball mark is always handy, well, almost always. The magnets on my Birdicorn are just a tad weak so the ball mark occasionally slips off in my pocket. I like the ball mark itself. It’s similar in size to the buffalo-head nickels I usually use, and it is easy to see from across the green. If the Birdicorn logo is not to your liking, you can easily substitute another round, magnetic ball mark since the size is compatible with many that you'll find in golf shops. 4.) Club & Cigar Rest: The other club rests I’ve come across mean you have to carry one more thing. With the Birdicorn, it is built right into the tool. This is a great option to have at hand for keeping your grips off the ground on dewy mornings or after a rain. And if you are using it with a cigar, keep the lit end off the putting surface, please. 5.) Bottle Opener: Not a function that I’ve needed on the course very often, but it’s not bad to have with you when you reach the 19th hole. It works fine but it’s not the easiest opener I’ve ever used. 6.) Ball-Line Stencil: So it works, and I might use it in a pinch if I ever start marking a line on my golf balls again. It’s another usable feature. And though some other options out there might do the job better, Birdicorn gives you one less thing to do. 7.) Putt Alignment Aid: Again, not a feature that I really look for. But those who use an aid for putt alignment, should find it handy to have the function incorporated in something they’d be carrying anyway. Birdicorn combines multiple functions with aplomb. Unlike some bulky golf “knives,” the Birdicorn is thin, light and easy to carry. It feels well made, and mine shows no visible wear after weeks of use. Being able to choose your own color combo online is also a nice feature. The price is a little high for a ball mark repair tool. But when you think of it in terms of being a ball mark tool, a groove cleaner, a ball mark, a club/cigar rest, a bottle opener, a ball-line stencil, and a putt alignment aid, the Birdicorn starts to sound like more of a bargain. There are lots of repair tools out there, but few that do as much as the Birdicorn. Even if you don’t use all of those functions in a typical round, having them right in your pocket in a single, easy-to-carry unit is a nice bonus compared to the typical ball mark repair tool.

Anyone who thinks graphite shafts are only for older players hasn't been paying attention to the shaft market. Recent graphite iron shafts are nothing like their older "whippy" relatives. These days graphite can be made to respond essentially identically to steel, perhaps better. Graphite shafts can be as stiff as boards while still being as light as feathers or as heavy as premium "tour weight" steel shafts. They can also still be made to hit a ball straight up with a 4-iron (I'm exaggerating, but you get the point). Use what fits your game best, whether that's steel, graphite, hickory, or bamboo.

I'm going to try to get something put together in the next week or two. Let me know if any weekends are better than others.

With the absolute nature of the phrasing, I have to vote no. While I think there are definitely occasions when a pro (some more than others) might be whiny and act like a bratty child, I certainly don't think you can say they all are or even most on a given day. Plus, how many of us don't sometimes get whiny when the golf gods have seemingly forsaken us? I'm not proud of it, but I have had a few golf tantrums on a course that would not have played well had their been a TV camera documenting my theatrics. Now, are they spoiled? The kind of money that can be made by merely making cuts and not even sniffing the leaderboard? The perks from tourneys? The endorsement deals? Heck yes, they are spoiled! But many of them realize that and do a lot of good with that privilege, as well. Plus, most have worked hard to get where they are. It's pretty easy for any of us to sometimes forget just how good we actually have it.

Unless they have it hidden in there somehow, the Surefit CG does not appear to be part of the TS2, but it looks like there is at least one weight port (I wonder if it will be player adjustable or factory/fitter set). The TS3 clearly retains the CG weight tube in the design.

I always drive by Deer Ridge and think it looks like fun. Unfortunately, I'm tied up three weekends in a row starting with the 22nd. Depending on where it lands, I may be able to make it.

It depends on whether it’s important to you to have a the ability to easily work the ball, and that you like the appearance/offset at address. There are better-player distance options out there as well. Take a look at the Rogue Pro, Titleist AP3, or TaylorMade M3. All have reduced offset, somewhat smaller heads and more workability. You can read my review of the AP3 on TST: https://thesandtrap.com/b/clubs/titleist_718_ap3_irons_review. More distance is great, but assuming you make pretty consistent contact (at a 7, that would be my guess) you also need consistent distance or you’re going to be pitching back on from behind many greens.

Titleist Thursdays are another good option for getting fit and a pretty cool (and free) service. Here in Central Ohio, they start up again at Kinsale (Powell) in mid-May. Check out the Titleist website for more.

I've also had a love/hate relationship with hybrids for some time now. Their ability to handle so-so lies is a major boon, but their right-to-left bias creates problems for me. The hook has been my usual miss with all clubs, and hybrids exacerbate this. In previous models, the Titleist SureFit hosel helped with this tendency, but the hook still crept back in at all the worst times. When I first hit the 818, the SureFit CG (i.e., fade/draw stick) helped produce a slight fade on my stock swing. That's a very useful shape for approach shots into greens. The H1 clubhead is a little wider from front to back than the H2, but is still far trimmer than many hybrids on the market today. I carry one fairway wood, so the 21 degree H2 will serve as a transitional club between a 4-wood and my irons. Here's a feature that won't impact play, but the white Titleist 818 headcover is sharp!

Hi Liam! Welcome to TST and to golf. Your club pro friend gives good advice. But a few more things to consider: How much have you played so far? It's tough to jump into a $3K investment without being sure you like the sport. What are your goals for golf? Are you primarily in it for competitive, social or business reasons (I'd normally add exercise, but it sounds like you have that aspect covered already)? If you're in it to compete at some level or for business, you may want to spend a little more than if you're it it purely for social reasons. Roughly, judging by your height and weight, standard loft, lie, and length are going to be in the ballpark for you. So while I always recommend getting fit, depending on your commitment level right now, you might get more mileage out of the same or less money by buying off the shelf or used and getting some lessons from your club pro friend or another qualified instructor. Starting with good fundamentals will put you ahead of the curve for future improvement. I hope you find years of enjoyment on the course and on the site! Good luck and keep us posted.

I saw an Epic die over a tee marker earlier this year (an expensive demonstration of frustration, happily not mine), not that I suspect that's what happened here... In his defense, the perpetrator thought we was hitting a wooden branch cut into a tee marker (which would have been a little more forgiving), but it was cast metal in the shape of a branch. The Epic had a visible crack but lasted another few holes before it began twisting on the shaft (a result of the adhesive losing its grip... which is common from heel slams). As long as you don't plan to play in any competitions, play it as long as you want or it will go.

I strongly prefer spikeless to spiked shoes... much more comfortable, no hotspots from the spike ports, and you can wear them to the course or home or whatever. They also make great yardwork shoes when they get too worn for golf. Not all spikeless shoes are created equally when it comes to conditions, however. More and sharper "spikelets" create better grippage for dewy or wet conditions, particularly when they are fairly new. Flatter bottoms are more comfortable for to/from-course wear and dry conditions. While I have a pair of spiked shoes that I keep for really sloppy conditions, frankly it's more about their waterproof qualities than grip. The only time I ever have any difficulty with footing is when it's extremely soft and muddy.

I play a full bag, but as a kid I played all even-numbered irons (because my uncle split an old set into two to spread the wealth). Your yardage gaps are larger of course, but playing this way will teach you to "take a little off" certain shots. More recently, I've played a number of 3-4 clubs and a putter, and even one club, challenge rounds. It is remarkable how well you can get around the course with less than 14 clubs. You're handicapping yourself, to be sure, but if enjoyment is your primary motivation on the course... why not go lighter? There's no need to over think it. Just take every other club (plus any you just don't want to leave behind) and see how that goes. If you play one course routinely, you may find that you need a certain distance more often, but you can always adjust.

I've been playing the AP3s for a few months. I have an 8.3 index, for what that's worth (doesn't really tell you how I play, just how many). They do a great job of rescuing your bad shots while still allowing you to work the ball when that's needed. Unlike some players distance irons, these have been consistent for distance (ie., good contact/swing produces XXX yards, +/- a predictable number). I've only hit the Rogue Pro into a net, so I can't really compare the two. My full review on the AP3s will be up on the blog very soon..

Here’s are the faces of a used JPX 900 Hot Metal P and 9-iron that have many more rounds on them than the OP’s appear to and they have no deep scratches or rust. There’s dirt in the grooves but that’s about it. I pulled these off the used rack at the shop.

The shop I work in sells a ton of Mizuno products. I’m surprised by both the scratches and rust you’re seeing and the response from Mizuno. We’ve always had great customer support. And my JPX 900 Tours with nearly a full season of play still look almost new. If you’re playing in sandy soil, you might get some surface scratches but they shouldn’t be deep enough to rust. Something is wrong here.

This thing is going to be fun and add some data verification to range sessions. Super simple to go from box to first use. Can’t wait to dig deeper. Also glad to see my 200+ mph ball speed with a 6-iron displayed! OK so this was clearly an erroneous result... cause not clear. There was a lot going on, and several Mevos in close proximity. The three other readings could have been drivers hit from the next mat over.

Ten Mevos are on their way to me. Copy and paste this list and add your name (in @mention form please) to the list where there's an "open" listed. local sale @saevel25 @iSank @Vinsk @bills80 @georgep open open open open

I usually carry both GPS and laser when I play, so I like the idea of the Hybrid. I appreciate both the speed of GPS (one glance) and the accuracy of laser. I use GPS for most of my yardages (centers of greens and general guidance where a +/-2ish yards is not much of an issue, which with my game is most of the time). GPS is also useful when you have a slope or trees blocking your line of sight to shoot with the laser. I take the extra effort to bend over and pull the laser out of the bag for more exact numbers and for things that aren't marked. It is especially helpful for nailing down where pins are located on the green. GPS readings are entirely subject to how well the course has been mapped for green shapes, hazards and fairway edges, etc., by either a human using a GPS targeting device to manually mark locations on the course (not sure how much this is done, anymore) or by a computer comparing GPS and satellite imagery. Course changes (new mowing patterns, etc.) are often not reflected even years after the change takes place. For these reasons, I anticipate GPS to have a larger margin of error than the technology would have under ideal conditions (especially when playing an unfamiliar course). So, if in doubt, pull out the laser.