arturo28mx

I must be getting old. I only play 9. For me playing 18 has become like going to the movies to watch a four hour film. Please don't hate me for saying this. For me 9 is just perfect.

In my case, I was not looking for distance. I was looking for fairways!!! I preferred a straighter ball flight, that's why I went to 13.5 degrees even if I lost a bit of distance. By the way, I do want to stress that for me hitting a 13.5 driver is easier than hitting a 13.5 three wood because of the larger sweet spot. The draw fade adjustments have not really worked for me. I did set the driver to the most upright lie angle to compensate because I trimmed the shaft by an inch and a half. So my setting is A3.

Just wanted to share. I am 62 years old. Midhandicapper. I play with a Titleist 12 degree driver. The club feels good in my hands but I still produced a bit of a slice on many shots, enough of a slice to frequently put me in the rough. I struggled with this for years. I decided to experiment setting my driver to 13.5 degrees of loft and now my shots are straight as an arrow! Basically what I have now is equivalent to a strong 3 wood. Many pro’s sometimes tee off with a strong 3 wood, like Phil Mickelson or Tiger Woods. I did lose about 10 yards but for me it’s a small price to pay to get considerably straighter shots. I highly recommend people try it. In the past I did try teeing off with a 3 wood but found it hard to hit consistently.

Apparently the TS1 is a very light club to help golfers with slow swing speeds.

In my experience, a club with a heavy shaft at D3 will feel different than a club with a light shaft at D3, Maybe you need your new clubs to be D4 or D5

700,000

I have read it also helps hit the ball higher

Mizuno

I use my Randolph shooting glasses with light purple lenses

Instruction

Some people say polarized glasses are not good for golf because they hinder your ability to read greens. Of course if you read greens with your feet (Aimpoint system) then it doesn't matter.

My experience. Technology has come a long way and clubs today are more forgiving and give you more distance than ever. However, keep in mind there's a price to pay that is seldom mentioned: dispersion and loss of accuracy in most "distance" clubs. For some people this is not important.

Lie angle is strongly correlated to posture. If you have changed your posture (knees more flexed, wider stance, more upright torso, etc.) you will most definitely need to check your lie angles.

Shaft weight is much more important to the way a club performs than many people think. For me it is one of the most critical aspects of a good fitting. Irons and woods.

I have shortened many driver shafts. I play Titleist drivers and their stock shafts come in 45". When I trim one inch off, to get to 44", I get much better consistency in my strikes. Swingweight goes down from D3 to C8 (my experience). For me, C8 is still playable without having to add lead tape or hot melt. Titleist drivers have removable weights so I could also try that to increase swingweight. I'm 61 years old and a reduced swingweight makes it easier to swing for me because I'm not as strong as I used to be. However, I would not recommend going lower than C8.