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4 Sandbagger

About chop

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  • Birthday 11/06/1955

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    Southwest Ohio

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  1. I play on a little tour thing and they are so hung up on time that they say go up and hit where it goes out but you take 2 strokes. I'd rather hit a provisional because I usually hit it down the middle. Rather hit from there than dropping into who knows what near where it went out.
  2. Thanks Rulesman. I appreciate the answer. Sorry to put anyone out. I won't ask anymore questions on rules ever. I'll just download a rulebook onto my phone and move along. Thanks iacas and David in FL for the encouragement and the download.
  3. I don't have a rule book but I asked the tournament director and he could only talk about the rule to do with the ball moving at address. It's no longer a penalty if you are not deemed to have caused the ball to move. He talked about if the ball moved that you have to replace the ball but he could not give me a definitive ruling. He asked me if I hit the ball while it was moving and I said I wasn't sure, I just saw it move so it was close. Do you know the ruling?
  4. I had a putt and it was windy that day with crusty fast greens. I had a 10 foot birdie putt and I lipped it out and had 8 inches left. I did not mark it. I walked up, took my time, and when I took the putter back and as I changed directions the ball moved at least 4 mm and I don't really know for sure whether I hit it while it was moving or not. I gave myself a penalty even thought he rule of the ball moving has changed. If I did not cause the ball to move there is no penalty and I did not cause this ball to move. But what is the rule if you actually hit the ball while it moves? Or even if it
  5. Thanks for all of the suggestions guys but I jumped the gun on this. Took the club out for two more rounds and hit it beautifully. I just didn't have faith in this shaft but now I am a believer. I was also feeling the pressure to hit a 7 wood that I just paid $300 for. It's the first new club I have purchased besides a driver in 20 years. I'll be buying some more of these woods for sure.
  6. I just bought a SIM2 FW wood and none of the shafts offered were what I need. The stock shaft is a good one for 55 grams but I want weight in my FW woods with a low kick-point and lowish torque. Like between 3.8 to 4.2. I'd like the weight to be around 65-70 grams I'd like it to be in regular flex if that's possible. My older 7 wood has a Mitsubishi Diamana Red shaft but it was over tipped 10 years ago and just never got up in the air like I need. It's close but not quite what I want. Any suggestion before I do a major hunt? Thx
  7. chop


  8. I'm a short hitter that has always used a stiff flex in driver and a little softer in irons. I compared my X14 7 iron in steel to the new B21 BB 7 iron in graphite/reg. flex on a monitor. I of course hit them a solid club longer and was totally shocked to see the dispersion. I can attest that even the stock graphite from Callaway is spectacular.
  9. Well, what did you get? Driver technology hit another level in the last 8 years. I own the G400max from Ping and it is amazing. I did not realize it but I read it has some draw bias built in and it works perfectly for me. I just got my wake up call with irons. I've used the Callaway X14s since the year 2000. I'm a 6 hdcp that has always used cast irons with offset. I like them. I'm 65 now and tried the Big Bertha B21 irons and I love them. Over a club longer and straight as hell with the fake RCH 65i graphite shafts. They are surprisingly awesome. These clubs will open up my bag for another
  10. Sounds to me either you did not wait 24 hours or the guy ran out of his usual solvent and used something else. Maybe watered down solvent or something. I've been doing my grips for years and have never had any problems. Usually 12 hours overnight works fine.
  11. I always thought the Ping Eye 2 plus no plus was the best ever. I also saw where a club tester compared the Ping Eye2 against a couple of top irons a few years back and the Eye2 was better in distance and grouping which shocked me a little. I can see that though when using the average and he was using the average. I still throw my Ping Eye2 SW in the bag when I know the sand is going to be fluffy. lol
  12. I went with the Ping G400max because the word out there was this head is straight and solid. So I bought a Mitsubishi Blueboard 63 in stiff and I could not be happier. It actually helped my game so much that I have started thinking about getting new irons because I'm in the fairway all of the time. I also changed the weight in that head to the lightest I could find which was 3 grams. I hate that driver heads are now in the 206-208 gram range. You could also look into the 40-50 gram shafts. I hit a Titleist driver with one in it and I was crushing it.
  13. I'm one of those guys that hits FW woods better than hybrids and I used a 9 wood from age 45 to 60. Then I put new shafts in my 4,5,and 7 woods but not my 9 wood. I called my 9 wood my money club. I won a many of closest to the pins with that club from the 160 range. Now I'm back to my 4 iron since the 9 wood is now the lightest club in my bag. I may re-shaft the 9 wood though. It's a money club for me. ha
  14. I used to have those graphite Big Bertha irons in firm flex. I liked hitting them but the short irons gave me fits so the next set I bought were the Callaway X14s in steel. Last year I bought a set of Callaway Mavriks in the Elevate95 steel shafts, regular flex and the 8 iron to gap wedge were deadly accurate but I could not hit good shots with the 7 iron to 5 iron. They are D3 swing weight and were just too heavy so I sent them back for a credit. Now I'm thinking about the Mavrik short irons with graphite and the Big Bertha B21 iron in 7 through 4 iron in the stock graphite. The Mavs will
  15. Last time I had graphite irons was in 1996 with a Firm flex in Big Bertha irons. Today the regular flex graphite's in most irons are stiffer than those Callaway irons back then. I'm still playing X14s in steel and am trying to decide on a new set of Callaway irons maybe in graphite again.
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