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12 Off to a Great Start

About Liko81

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  1. I too like midsize; I'm on the cusp between regular and midsize grips in terms of hand size, and the larger grip just feels more comfortable and less like I'm going to helicopter the club into the lake. Currently I have Golf Pride Tour Wrap 2G midsize on my numbered irons; Dry, they're great, nice and grippy, but just a little sweat or rain and they're slicker than snot against bare skin so a glove is a must. Not a huge fan but it's what I have on them this year. What I wanted was the Lambkin tour wrap from 2-3 years ago, which I still have on my wedges. Dry or wet, glove or bare hands, t
  2. 2ndSwing.com. You haven't told us make/model/year/dexterity, but they have over 4200 numbered irons (not counting wedges) in stock for individual sale right now, so the odds are better than most places. I can testify that their prices, delivery and customer service are all excellent, and they very carefully take several high-res photos of every club that comes into their stock to it's easy to see what you're buying. eBay is my second choice; it's a pretty good aggregator of all the other used sellers out there (even if they have their own site, they'll also often post on eBay for the extr
  3. Best? Probably my new 3-wood; Taylormade AeroBurner 3HL. Something about it just works for me, when I couldn't dial in my 2009 Burner to save my life. $129 for basically new (it had been swung, but the clubhead was cherry). Worst? Probably the first set of clubs I ever bought, which turned out to be ladies' blades from the '80s. Still, $25 for a full set for a guy who'd never swung a club before, and I still own and play the Warrior wedges that came with them (though those are probably my next replacement; I A/Bed them next to the SM6 in Tour Chrome and the feel of the Vokeys is just so m
  4. I don't play S58s, but I did A/B an S55 set against my own G10s and against some other GIs (Callaway, Mizuno etc). One thing I noticed, that I should have paid more attention to, is that the S55s were actually the more consistent iron for me. With a stiff steel shaft and less weight in the head, the club has a "higher" swingweight (COM further from the clubhead) than virtually any GI you'll hit, and with a consistent swing that I had that day (I don't always), it really tightened up the dispersion pattern compared to reg-flex. I also was trying blue dots when I'm really closer to black (I alwa
  5. My biggest regret is not getting more real lessons earlier. I started learning to swing just after college, at a new TopGolf that had opened more or less in walking distance from my apartment. Unfortunately, I had no idea what the pros were trying to get me to do, and everything they suggested screwed up my ball contact; I'm sure if I had made contact it would have flown straighter, but as it was I ended up ignoring everything they told me. Then I ripped the hell out of my back at that same range (a month after buying into their "unlimited play" membership) and didn't swing a club for nearly t
  6. First off, the difference in sample size is massive. By rule, only the top 125 pro players in the entire world have the magic "PGA Tour Card" that grants them entry to any USGA/R&A professional tournament. PGA.com only bothers to keep track of the top 250 professional players in terms of FedEx Cup points. By contrast, there are an estimated 24.7 million recreational golfers in the United States alone. So, the Fedex Cup standings represent the top one-thousandth of 1% of the U.S. recreational player pool. Second, the Tour players, pretty much by definition, are the best the sport has t
  7. If your last fitting was four years ago you really need to get fitted again, especially if you are considering new clubs. The clubs won't have changed a great deal between 2012 and now (despite all the marketing hype), but your swing very well might have changed enough to change the recommendations. The S2s are firmly in the high-cap game-improvement range (they remind me quite a bit of the Cally Big Bertha GIs from about 10 years back), and if you're having problems with launching too high then you might be ready for a set with a higher CG that will launch lower. Whether you still need t
  8. It's all about swingweight (and a little about stiffness). If your irons have higher-mass heads (game improvement or hybrid-style irons), a shaft that's too light will make the club feel toe-heavy and it'll be harder to control your ball-striking. Graphite shafts can vary in stiffness more than steel for the same weight, but all other things being equal, a heavier shaft can more easily be made stiffer, so if your swing is strong enough for stiff flex you will likely end up with a slightly heavier shaft too.
  9. It's certainly better than the high slice that most novice players start with. If you're hitting a hook (launches straight, curves toward your side of your stance), that usually means you have an inside-to-out swing path (excellent for the driver), and are turning your hands over too much to close the clubface (not so good but fixable with small grip/release changes). If you're hitting a pull (launches left, flies straight), that's usually an outside-in swing path (not great but very common) coupled with a closed face that lines up the face to the swing path. This requires more work to fix (lo
  10. Well, a strong grip (thumbs shifted toward your trailing side; right for a rightie, left for a southpaw) is going to encourage you to close the clubface at impact as you turn your hands over. If the face is too far closed, you'll hook it every time, no real surprise there. Are you sure you were told to use a strong grip on irons? Strengthening your grip is a common solution to the beginner's high slice with the driver, but AFAIK most instructors lean toward starting with a neutral grip on your irons, since the basic setup is much more centered.
  11. Not exactly the same, but I did switch from a standard 3w loft to a 3HL (16.5*), and that 1.5* extra loft seems to have made a big difference all by itself; my shot consistency went way up and my distance increased 10 yards on average, turning my 3w from a last resort to a useful gap-filler between the driver and 4H. If I'd known about the mini driver in the same line when I was looking, I might have tried that out as well; a slightly deeper face, 16* loft, pretty much a "deck driver" in all senses of the word.
  12. There's no way we'll be able to tell you; this is something you dial in by feel and by distance. A heavier shaft, all other things being equal, will slow your tempo a touch as the club will feel heavier, but it will also increase total mass of the club. Distance-wise, the ideal weight will create a local maximum where there's both sufficient mass and swing speed to give you the most kinetic energy behind the ball. Too heavy and swing speed will fall off more than the shaft's mass can make up; too light and the increase in swing speed doesn't make up for the mass loss. Of more importance I
  13. Nice Vine. Only problem is, that ball's now so out of round it's unlikely to fly anywhere near straight. From an everyday definition of the term, golf balls are durable, but that's because they're designed to get hit at upwards of 100mph, fly through the air, land on whatever's underneath them, then be playable again for the next shot. However, the aerodynamics of the golf ball requires that ball to be pretty much perfect, so it actually doesn't take much to relegate a ball that's still round and in one piece to the shag bag.
  14. Even at private courses, there is usually an enforced pace of play, and in general, etiquette states that you should try to keep up with the group in front of you. If you can see the group ahead of you on the current hole (or teeing off at the next while you're approaching the green), then you're fine; if anyone is the problem it's them. If you can't, and there's groups stacking up behind you, then maybe you should start adding some time-saving measures (gimmes within 3 feet, dropping at the nearest known point to a lost ball instead of a provisional, "Ready Golf" where people still play in tu
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