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1badbadger

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1badbadger last won the day on October 15

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About 1badbadger

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    Dedicated Member
  • Birthday 01/03/1967

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    Dallas/Ft. Worth

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  • Handicap Index
    6
  • Handedness
    Righty

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  1. I always recommend taking a look at your situation when trying to make this type of decision... If you're an 8 handicapper that is able to play and practice a lot, your handicap is trending down and you are working to lower it even more, consider the player's irons. If you're an 8 who used to be a 5, and don't have the time to play and practice like you used to because of work or family obligations, and it's not realistic to get your handicap back down, then something in the game improvement clubs makes sense. As others have suggested, a split set of GI in the mid and longer irons with player's clubs in the short irons is worth thinking about.
  2. Are you a brand snob?

    Delete
  3. Where do you Put the Cheese on a Cheeseburger?

    I'm giving a shout-out to pretzel buns. Whoever came up with this idea should get a promotion. Sounds weird, but it's the nuts.
  4. Drivers Insufficient Loft?

    Excellent points Don. As you pointed out, there are a lot of different things that affect the launch angle...the loft of the club, the tee height, ball position, shaft, the ball, swing path, where the ball impacts the clubface...all of these will have an affect on how high the ball launches. The higher the swing speed, the less loft and spin are needed for an efficient trajectory. Slower swings need more loft and spin to keep the ball in the air longer. But unless you hit the ball off the crown of the driver, I don't know how anyone would launch the ball at 17-19*. And the chart that shows 100 mph ball speed...that would be about 66-68 mph swing speed. I'm not sure how relevant that is, unless it's for junior players maybe. Having said all of this, in my experience almost all players launch the ball too low, and would benefit from more loft. I play a 12* and don't hit it too high. I think you hit on a key point...the sweet spot on modern drivers is above the center of the face. Guys who try to hit the middle of the club will launch the ball lower and with more spin.
  5. Where do you Put the Cheese on a Cheeseburger?

    Dude, this is a house fire just waiting to happen. The butter will melt and drip off, and if it doesn't cause a fire, it will probably be a mess. For the buns to caramelize, it has to be in contact with the pan. I don't have a good feeling about this...
  6. Drivers Insufficient Loft?

    I'm not sure I buy figures 2, 3 and 4 from that article...especially 3 and 4. In fig. 4 (180 mph ball speed, which is about 122 mph swing speed) it shows to achieve maximum distance the ball should be launched at 18-19* with 1000-1400 rpms of spin? First, it's almost impossible to launch a driver at 19*, even if it has 12* of loft. Yes, high launch/low spin is what we try to achieve, but there is a point where you could go too far with that concept. If the ball doesn't have enough spin, it will act like a knuckleball and "float" around and get pushed by the wind, rather than piercing through the air like a bullet. It will also fall out of the sky too soon, because spin is what helps keep the ball in the air. This is what happens when the ball doesn't have enough spin: And this is a good example of optimizing loft:
  7. Where do you Put the Cheese on a Cheeseburger?

    I worked at McDonald's when I was in high school, so I might be able to provide some insight on this.(ha!) Has anyone mentioned toasting the bun? This takes things to another level, and has several benefits which I'll save for another thread. Don't want to hijack the cheese thread. In terms of condiment order, taking the toasted crown of the bun upsidedown (that's the top of the bun for those not in the burger business) it goes mustard, ketchup, onions, pickles, then cheese. This places the cheese directly on top of the meat. Quarter pounders get 2 slices of cheese, one on top, one on bottom, and they are "fanned" so the corners are opposite each other. (see pic)
  8. Who would you like to meet? I know some of you have met already. There are a handful of guys I would be interested in meeting, like @iacas, @DaveP043, @Lihu, @WUTiger, @RandallT, @mvmac as well as some others. Maybe one day it will happen.
  9. Driver Shaft Length Creep

    I just noticed this post @Dinoma. This is a great example of the type of improvement many players have gotten from shortening their driver shaft, and falls in line with the results I personally had and what I've seen with others. Guys, one thing that I don't think has been mentioned regarding this subject is the idea "if 1" off my driver is good, then cutting 3" off will be even better!" Shortening your driver can be very beneficial, but don't over-do a good thing. There are no hard and fast rules on this because not all drivers are the same, but I'm comfortable going down to 44-44.5" on most drivers, but when you start going shorter than 44", there is a point of diminishing returns, so keep that in mind everybody.
  10. Driver Shaft Length Creep

    If you've ever read any of my posts on this subject, you know I'm a big supporter of shorter driver shafts and encourage players to try it and see the benefits for themselves. Ordering them from the factory with the shorter shaft specs is a great way to have this done, since you can also select different weight shafts and possibly weight screws to help achieve your desired swingweight. One thing to keep in mind though is some companies have a limit as to how short a club can be ordered from the factory. When I was with Bridgestone, it was +/- 1", so 44" was fine, but 43 1/2" wasn't available. I'm not sure what other company's policy is on this. Even though you're tall, it shouldn't be an issue. Tall guys tend to have longer arms, so often time their clubs aren't much different than anyone else. I have a good friend who is 6'8" and his irons are only 1/4" longer than that brand's standard loft. Please follow up your post with how the ordering process was done and the results when you finally receive them!
  11. Optimize Existing Irons or Buy New?

    This is the way to do it guys...@xrayvizhen,had a dilemma, he did his homework/research online, then spoke to a few local experts to get their input, and made an informed decision that he is comfortable with. Well done. Keep in mind guys, this doesn't mean that this is the best choice in all situations...there are some circumstances where re-shafting an existing set of irons is the better move, so don't get the impression that it's never worth updating your current clubs. I also have some thoughts about your comment that club manufacturers are "being deceptive and trying to manipulate their customers" into replacing their clubs that were purchased not long ago with new ones. Perhaps I can give you another perspective from the over 9 years that I spent in the marketing dept. at one of the major OEM golf companies... Anyone who is older than about 35 or so probably remembers a time when golf companies product line didn't change much for many years. The Eye 2 irons were in Ping's line for 8 years. MP-14s were the workhorse of Mizuno's club line for the same amount of time. And Bridgestone's j33 drivers were made for 5 years. It's hard to imagine a driver being offered for 5 years now days. Some companies have gone to a 9 month life-span on their club models. This frustrates and pisses off some consumers, which I totally get, but some others are excited to be able to upgrade this often. Is any of this deceitful, deceptive or manipulative though? What happened was massive technology breakthroughs in the 1990's that resulted in noticeable improvements in club performance. This was the result of the development of computers that were able to analyze what happened when a club hit a ball, which taught us a lot that we didn't realize before. When the USGA but the breaks on, and limited things like the size of the head, the C.O.R. and other parameters, improvements became more difficult to attain. Golf club and golf ball manufacturing is a highly competitive industry with hundreds of millions of dollars at stake. A company that does not continue to improve it's products, or isn't trying to develop new technology will get run over very quickly. One thing that frustrates a lot of players is when a company discontinues the ball they play, or makes changes to it. "I finally found a ball that was perfect for me, and a year later they quit making it!" I heard that more than once. Sometimes equipment is discontinued because it sucked and nobody bought it. But even if it's great now and is a top seller, you better believe the manufacturer is already working on how to make it better. If a company doesn't update their products on a regular basis, it won't take long for consumers to feel their stuff is not cutting edge and is antiquated. Personally, I hate the really short life cycle that some companies have implemented. It has crushed the used club market, and as a result clubs do not hold their value like they used to. But, it has created an urgency for R&D depts to push themselves and develop better products. It's no different than other industries...auto manufacturers have been releasing new models every year for decades. Computer companies and cell phone manufacturers release new versions constantly too. But none of these items hold their value either. I understand the concept that a company wants to offer a "new and improved" version on a regular basis, whether it's every 9 months or 2 years to spark sales, but here is what happens: Joe Golfer buys the latest and greatest driver from his local golf store for $400. Less than a year later, that model is replaced with a newer latest and greatest. When that happened, the model Joe has was closed-out and marked down. Shops with excess inventory are now selling last year's model for $250 and the newest model is $400. Joe likes what he hears about the new model, and decides to trade in the driver he got 9 months ago on the new one. If Joe's driver is selling for $250 now (new), how much will a used one sell for? Maybe $150? Probably closer to $125. So what is the trade-in value for Joe's driver...around $75? So you've got to tell this customer that the driver he bought from you 9 months ago for $400 is now worth $75. Trust me..it doesn't go over well. Anyway, I don't consider any of this as manipulating the public into buying their products, or that it's deceptive. What I do consider deceptive is a company that changes the packaging of a product like golf balls and tries to pass it off as new and improved, without making any changes. On a quick side note, I see examples of people being factually inaccurate regarding golf equipment on a daily basis. Consumer education used to be one of my main responsibilities, so I have no problem explaining the accurate facts to avoid confusion or misinformation from being spread. This to me is different than an opinion-based topic like "which is better...Ford or Chevy?" That's debatable. But if someone said "When hitting a driver, you want to try to get as much top-spin on the ball as possible for more roll-out" that is simply wrong and I feel it should be corrected if possible. There is enough confusion in this game already!
  12. Optimize Existing Irons or Buy New?

    The designations on the bottom of the club are just identifiers used to help the player determine which club to hit from what distance, but I get what you're saying about manufacturers strengthening the lofts to give the impression their clubs are longer. I'm not saying that marketing has nothing to do with it, but there are some legitimate reasons for stronger lofts, which stems from the way modern heads are designed. A good example is Bridgestone's JGR Forged Hybrid irons. The 9 iron in that set is 33*. The 9 iron in their muscleback model is 43*! That's about 2 1/2 clubs difference! But, the reason is because the CoG is so different between the two models. To keep the trajectory, apex, and landing angles the same, the lofts have to be stronger. No one would want to play an 9i that came out of the shoot like a 6i because you would lose all of your stopping power on the green. This makes the modern design easier to hit, longer, and with a similar trajectory. You mentioned that you've always been a high ball hitter, and you're concerned about getting a new set that has a lower CoG and hits the ball even higher. In my experience, most of the time when a player has this issue it's due to excessive backspin which causes the ball to climb higher than ideally it should. This could be related to the ball you play, so take that into consideration as well. If you normally play a high spin, urethane covered ball, you might want to do some testing with a little lower spinning model to help bring your trajectory down which should make it more efficient.
  13. Optimize Existing Irons or Buy New?

    The new Hogan irons were stamped with the loft instead of an iron number. It didn't go over well...
  14. changing golf balls

    There are a couple of things to keep in mind... First, you can't really "start from scratch". You have to start somewhere. I always began with the ball the player normally used. If the player tended to switch around, I'd go with the model he played most of the time, or the model he liked best. Hitting shots with their normal ball of choice gave me a starting point to work off of. I would then analyze the data and look for areas that needed improvement. I would show the player what I saw, and explain where their launch conditions are currently, and where they should ideally be, so they would know what I was trying to accomplish. It's important that the tech explains these things. I would then recommend a ball that will help make their trajectory more efficient. My recommendations were based purely based on performance, not price. I would show the player hard numbers on how much difference the ball makes, then give them samples to try on the course. Sometimes my recommendation was a more expensive ball than they usually play. I would let the player decide if the increase in performance was worth the additional cost. More often my suggestion happened to be less expensive. Narrowing your selection down to 3 models that won't make a difference which one you pick pretty much defeats the purpose of ball fitting. The idea is to find the best ball for your game. This removes any doubt in your mind that you are playing the correct ball and eliminates switching around. All golf balls are a little different, and even if your launch numbers are close, there is a difference in feel and the way they react in certain circumstances. Playing the correct ball every time creates consistency which leads to lower scores.
  15. It can be done...I mean, before launch monitors were common we had to do it without them. But it's SO much better now. Launch monitors take a lot of the guesswork out of it, so you get a more accurate fitting in less time. Much more efficient. There are things that you can determine when seeing launch monitor numbers that a lot of players wouldn't realize by simply testing on their own. One aspect I've mentioned before, which is many players feel they launch the ball too high because their ball climbs, peaks, and drops almost straight down with very little roll-out. When they see this, they move to a lower lofted driver, or they tee the ball lower, and do all sorts of other things to lower the flight. 99 times out of 100 (or more) they are not hitting the ball too high...they are over-spinning it. Quite often the adjustments they make to lower the ball flight makes the problem worse. But when you can see the numbers, it's obvious that the launch is too low and spin is too high. Here is an example:
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