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1badbadger

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1badbadger last won the day on October 18 2017

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About 1badbadger

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    Dedicated Member
  • Birthday 01/03/1967

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    Dallas/Ft. Worth

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  • Handicap Index
    6
  • Handedness
    Righty

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  1. Lie angle advice

    The other guys who posted are correct. Never change your stance or swing to fit your clubs...change your clubs to fit your swing.
  2. I realize this thread is a couple of months old, but if the weight of your wedges is still an issue, there are a couple of things you can easily check to help determine why they feel so much heavier. Let me start by saying it's not at all unusual for wedges to be a little heavier than the rest of your irons, especially the sand wedge and lob wedge. When hitting short shots around the green out of deep rough or sand, the extra weight helps with feel, and gets the club through long grass and sand easier. But, it sounds like your new wedges are more than just slightly heavier, so here is where I would suggest starting... Since these wedges were pre-owned, it's possible your buddy had them extended, or custom ordered them with shafts longer than standard. If you still have your old wedges, compare the length to the Callaway wedges. If the Callaway wedges are longer, that will make them feel noticeably heavier. Also, look on the back of the wedges and see if there are any strips of gray tape stuck to the head. If there is, this is called lead tape, and it's used to increase the head weight of a club. It should be easy to peel off, and it won't hurt the finish of the club. One other possibility is the grips. If the grips on your irons happens to be a midsize or oversize that weighs more than a standard grip, and the Callaway wedges happen to have a smaller, lightweight grip, this will make the wedges feel heavier compared to your irons. It will only take a few minutes to check these items, and even if it's not the answer, at least we've eliminated the possibilities and can go to "plan b".
  3. changing balls during play

    This is an interesting point. Let me get your opinion on a scenario that I see on a regular basis, and also participate in myself: Me and the guys I typically play with call them "practice rounds". For example, we would go to the course after work knowing that we probably aren't going to get 9 holes in before dark, but have no intention of playing for a score. Instead, we use it as a chance to work on our game, or maybe to test out a new driver shaft or different balls or something like that. We might hit several tee shots off the par 4s and par 5s, or hit a few approach shots into each green. Depending on what I'm working on, I might not even putt...just fix my ball marks, pick-up and head to the next tee. Basically it's similar to what the Tour guys do on Mon and Tues of a tournament. Hitting balls on the range is great, but hitting shots on the course is different, so it's something I do on a regular basis. What are your thoughts on this as it relates to posting scores for handicaps? (Just to be clear, this is done during non-peak times when the course has few players. We fix our divots and ball marks, and don't hold anyone up. Often times one of the pros might be playing with us, but if not, they know what we are doing...it's not something we are trying to hide or not get caught or anything)
  4. Re-Shafting Driver

    Trying to choose a new driver shaft can be a bit overwhelming...there are so many options available that it can make your head spin. Let me make a few suggestions to help you navigate through this process... Start by analyzing how well you hit the club before the stock shaft broke. Ask yourself questions like this: Did you like it, or were there some things you realized didn't suit you? Did it produce a good trajectory, or did you hit the ball too low or too high? Were most of your shots straight, or did you tend to miss fairways? Was it a good weight, or did you feel it was too light or too heavy? This information will give you a starting point, so you'll know which direction to go. If for example you had a tendency to hit the ball higher than you'd like, then you'll be able to weed out all the high launching shafts and focus on lower launching choices. If the driver felt too light which resulted in a lack of feel, you'll know to look for a shaft that is a little heavier than the original one.Knowing what you want to accomplish before you start your search will make this project a lot easier. If you don't have a specific idea of how you want your driver to perform, you'll just be grabbing at straws. If there is a facility in your area that has a selection of demo clubs, hit some drivers that have shafts that have the particulars you are looking for. Even if it's a different model driver head, if it has the same loft as your driver try it. You're trying to get a sense of how different shafts feel, so even if it's not the exact head you have, it can still be helpful. Have fun with this process...the more you learn about what you like (and what you don't like) the more it can help your game.
  5. Extreme lie angle help

    I've been a professional club builder for many years and have adjusted the lie angle on thousands of clubs, but never 11*. The general rule-of-thumb is forged irons can be bent up to 4*. They can go more than that, but the chance of snapping a hosel increases exponentially when you go beyond that. The most I've ever tried was 7*, and it was successful, but it created more anxiety than I like. To answer your question, it's not something you can do without a loft/lie machine, and for someone who has no experience bending clubs, 10-11* is not recommended for a first try! Here is the thing...yes, I realize we are talking about 1-length clubs in general, but let's just talk about the 6 iron for a moment. What is the lie angle of your current 6 iron? My guess is somewhere between 61-64* I know you're wanting to do this just as an experiment, but I honestly don't think it will work. Bryson's lie angles are so far from normal it's crazy. But 70 or 73* isn't the key to making a 1-length set work. If you want to try it just to see what happens, ask that guy at your local shop who you spoke with before and ask him how many degrees he is willing to bend your club. If it's 3 or 4*, have him do it and go hit it. That should give you an idea if you're onto something or not.
  6. changing balls during play

    Yeah, when Tour players draw a line on their ball, it's there on all shots...like @saevel25 mentioned, technically you're not allowed to use a different ball when putting than you use on full shots. Keep in mind, most players don't draw a line all the way around the ball. It goes about 1/3 of the way around, or 1/2 at most. That is all that is needed for lining up a putt. On tee shots, some players may use the line, but personally I tee the ball up with the line underneath so it can't be seen, or it can be positioned on the side. On approach shots or short game shots there is not anything you can do...it could be in any position. But the reason you haven't seen any except on the greens during a telecast could be because they are actually not very big and are often times drawn over the sidestamp, so they kind of blend in so-to-speak.
  7. Yep, you're right...I missed that post. Sorry about that. All the information still applies to the premium urethane balls and the less expensive Surlyn covered models. I mentioned "cast-urethane" because it's one of those marketing terms that companies promote as a selling point, but it's really not. FYI...the xFixx is based off of the TreoSoft, so if you liked the TreoSoft I think you'll enjoy the xFixx. The Bridgestone Extra Soft is very similar if you can't find the xFixx anymore.
  8. John Daly was ahead of his time

    And he did it with a balata ball and a small headed driver.
  9. Some may feel I am biased regarding this topic since I worked for Bridgestone for almost 10 years, but since I am no longer affiliated with them I don't have a dog in the fight. But there are some differences in the way each manufacturer designs and produces their balls. One quick note that is fairly common knowledge at this point but some people still don't know is that Nike never manufactured their own golf balls. They designed the various models, but the production was farmed out to other ball companies. For the first handful of years Bridgestone made all the Nike models. Eventually they started using several manufacturers to produce their line. Of the three companies the OP asked about, I will say Srixon makes a good product. Like Bridgestone, they are a rubber company so that is where their expertise lies. Bridgestone is a golf ball company. That is their main focus. Yes they make great clubs as well (their forgings especially have an outstanding reputation) but as I'm sure many of you know very well their clubs are not easy to find in the U.S. and you don't see any advertising for them. They are slowly growing that side of their business, but they are all about the ball. When it comes to TaylorMade, to me their ball line seems like an after-thought. They offer them because they pretty much have to, but they have always been a driver company. I believe they currently offer 11 different driver models + 6 ladies versions! Obviously they are strong in irons too, but the ball isn't their priority. In terms of the ball plants themselves, many companies are using antiquated machines and/or manufacturing methods. People email B-Stone every day to inquire about tours of the facility. It's not offered. There are several reasons, but the big one is they don't want competitors to get a look at their manufacturing technology. Hell, I worked for the company for 4 years before I got a tour of the ball plant! I believe some of their manufacturing patents may have expired, but things like injection molding the cover vs. compression molding, which is the traditional way the cover is applied makes a huge difference. If you see the term "cast urethane" it's the same thing. That's what creates the seam in the cover vs a seamless cover. What's the difference? Another difference is painting the ball. Most companies spray paint the cover of the ball before applying the logo, sidestamp and play number. This can cause paint to fill some of the dimples which affects the trajectory. There is so much painstaking research done on dimple patterns, depth, size, shape and how it affects the flight, and they must be produced with the utmost accuracy. Any change in depth due to overspray can cause inconsistency. Plus the paint can wear off during the course of play. Bridgestone doesn't paint their balls. The color is mixed into the cover material before it's injected around the core, so not only are the dimples more consistent, the cover keeps it's color better. They also developed Gradational Core Technology, which is a core with a soft inner region for lower driver spin and firmer outer region for increased ball speed. Proprietary technology that achieves in one solid core design what competitors attain in multiple layers or in a dual core construction. All these little things add up to a more consistent product. One thing that Bridgestone can't advertise or talk too much about is that the USGA uses Bridgestone golf balls when calibrating their test equipment because they are so consistent. I can play any ball I want now, and I still play B-Stone. If I couldn't, I would play Srixon. They make a fine product as well. This wasn't meant to sound like a promo for any particular company...just some observations from what I've learned over the years.
  10. Mixed Bags Making A Comeback?

    Nike was definitely one of the big "head-to-toe" companies, but so was TaylorMade/Adidas, Titleist/FootJoy/Cameron/Vokey and Callaway/Odyssey. It wasn't unusual for player's contracts to stipulate that they play 12 or 13 clubs from that manufacturer plus the ball, and wear the clothing, shoes, glove and headwear as well. There were exceptions, but companies wanted "the count" in all the categories for the Darrell Survey.
  11. There are just some clubs that are more private than others. One that comes to mind is Preston Trail in Dallas. I did an event there about 10 years ago which was almost a total bust because unbeknownst to us the course was closed for renovations, and only the driving range was open. It was pretty much a ghost town. We had a lot of time to kill and talked with one of the assistant pros for a while, and he explained that because the course was going to be closed for an extended length of time, they had to buy memberships at other clubs in the area so their members would have a place to play. Many of the members there belong to more than one club, but for those who didn't they actually purchased memberships at other private facilities, which they had to because they don't reciprocate with other clubs. I thought that was interesting.
  12. Mixed Bags Making A Comeback?

    Right. For example, Gary Woodland played TaylorMade woods, Titleist irons, Vokey and Callaway wedges, a Cameron putter and B-Stone ball. Haotong Li played Callaway and TaylorMade irons and woods and a Bettinardi putter.
  13. Mixed Bags Making A Comeback?

    The last couple of weeks the winners on Tour had a much more mixed bag than the "head-to-toe" set-up than has been the norm. Is this something that will continue to trend, or was it an anomaly?
  14. Back in the day before club fitting became a "thing", I don't know if anyone realized the benefits or understood what was involved. It wasn't until technology was able to be studied that it became apparent how club specs affect a player's trajectory.
  15. Is it my fault?

    I have managed 2 retail golf shops and have extensive knowledge in repairs and club building, so I might be able to give some insight on this. First, I'll quickly explain why your driver shafts have been cracking near the hosel. Back in the day (15-20 yrs ago) this was rarely an issue because clubheads were smaller. But as technology advanced and driver heads grew in size, the number of broken driver shafts increased. Why? Because now there is so much more mass at the end of the shaft, and the toe is so much further away from the shaft, mishits create a lot more torque on the shafts than they used to. If a shot is hit out on the toe with the club on the left, especially at high swing speeds, it basically twists the clubhead around the shaft. If a shot is hit in the heel, the heel of the club stops while the toe keeps moving which again twists the head, just in the opposite direction. This is why you haven't had any issues with your 3-wood...the head is much smaller so a mishit doesn't create as much torque. To be fair, this has nothing to do with TaylorMade. This can happen with any brand of club. And technically the club did not break...the shaft did. TaylorMade didn't make those shafts, they were purchased from the shaft manufacturers. But to be fair to them, it's not their fault either. The issues you've had occurred with more than one brand, so the chances that they are all from a defective batch are slim. These shafts most likely cracked due to one or more extreme mishits. Does this mean it's your fault? No, I'm not saying that. It's just something that happens due to the size of modern clubheads. Don't be embarrassed to take it back to the shop and talk to them about a warranty replacement again. I repaired golf clubs for a living full-time, and people would come in all sheepish and embarrassed because their club broke, but it's not unusual at all. As long as they determine the club was not abused or broken in anger, it should be covered under warranty (during the time-frame specified by the manufacturer). The guys in the golf store don't care. It's no skin off their nose. That's what they are there for...not just to sell clubs, but to help customers after the sale too. I know you don't have confidence in your woods right now, but remember, it's not a TaylorMade issue, and spending $400-500 on a driver doesn't mean it's more durable than a $250 driver. The head didn't break. By the same token, a $300 shaft can break just as easy as a $60 shaft if they are strained past their limits. When you get your driver situation squared away, put a piece of impact tape on the face and see where the ball is hitting. If it's way out on the toe or on the heel, some swing adjustment for more center face hits might be needed.
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