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80 Power and Finesse to Spare

About RayG

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  • Birthday 10/04/1960

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    Astoria, NY

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  1. Well, a combination of 1 & 3. Iron's I keep. Drivers might get traded in sometimes.. or not. Some were left with my Dad in Florida to have a backup set to avoid luggage charges, etc...
  2. I didn't say it was "illegal"- but.... Rule 16 Requirements for Hole Location on the Putting Green Q.What are the requirements for establishing a hole location on the putting green? A.The USGA frequently receives requests for guidelines with respect to selection of hole locations on the putting greens, particularly during competitions. There are no rules regarding hole locations, so there is no such thing as an "illegal" hole location. The USGA believes that many factors affect selection of hole locations. The first and most important is good judgment in deciding what will give fair results. Do not be tricky in locating holes. Following are specific points: Study the design of the hole as the architect intended it to be played. Know the length of the shot to the green and how it may be affected by the probable conditions for the day - that is, wind and other weather elements, conditions of the turf from which the shot will be played, and holding quality of the green. There must be enough putting green surface between the hole and the front and the sides of the green to accommodate the required shot. For example, if the hole requires a long iron or wood shot to the green, the hole should be located deeper in the green and further from its sides than should be the case if the hole requires a short pitch shot. In any case, it is recommended that generally the hole be located at least four paces from any edge of the green. If a bunker is close to the edge, or if the ground slopes away from the edge, the distance should be greater, especially if the shot is more than a pitch. Consideration should be given to fair opportunity for recovery after a reasonably good shot that just misses the green. An area two to three feet in radius around the hole should be as nearly level as possible and of uniform grade. In no case should holes be located in tricky places, or on sharp slopes where a ball can gather speed. A player above the hole should be able to stop the ball at the hole. Consider the condition of nearby turf, especially taking care to avoid old hole plugs which have not completely healed. Holes should be cut as nearly on the vertical as possible, not plumb with the contour of the green. There should be a balanced selection of hole locations for the entire course with respect to left, right, central, front and back positions. For example, avoid too many left positions with resulting premium on drawn or hooked shots. For a competition played over several days, the course should be kept in balance daily as to degree of difficulty. In a stroke competition, the first hole of the first round is as important as the last hole of the last round, and so the course should not be set up appreciably more difficult for any round - balanced treatment is the aim. An old concept of making the course progressively harder round after round is fallacious. One form of balanced daily treatment is to select six quite difficult, six which are moderately difficult and six which are relatively easy. During practice days before a competition, locate holes in areas not to be used during the competition and which will not result in areas to be used being impaired by foot traffic. Anticipate the players' traffic patterns. Locate holes for early rounds so that good hole locations for later rounds will not be spoiled by players leaving the green. In match play, a hole location may, if necessary, be changed during a round provided the players in each match play with the hole in the same location. In stroke play, Rule 33-2b requires that all competitors in a single round play with each hole cut in the same position, but see Exception to that Rule. When 36 holes are played in one day, it is not customary for hole locations to be changed between rounds, but there is no Rule to prohibit changing them. If they are changed, all players should be informed. The greenkeeper who cuts the holes should make sure that the Rules of Golf are observed, especially the requirements that the hole not exceed 4 ¼ inches in outer diameter and that the hole-liner be sunk at least one inch below the putting green surface.
  3. NO chance that is a valid USGA location according to their criteria. But- anyway- if I'm chipping from off the green, it stays in. If I'm putting, it comes out.
  4. Maybe mount a hammer on the end of a shaft... might be easier to hit than a 2 iron...<rimshot.wav>
  5. I'll pull a new ball for each new round. But the ball(s) from previous rounds are ready in case original is lost. I don't pull a new ball on the 7th tee or something. found balls get relegated to a separate pocket that gets emptied at the range. If I make it through a round with one ball, that will get used as the backup for the next rounds new ball. So- to actually answer the OP question... I don't know, but it should be able to take at least one round worth of strikes barring any damage.
  6. the skin was, but they were either 90 or 100 compression. (But that was on a different scale than is used these days- new balls may be rated as "90", but likely compared to the old balls are probably closer to 60) They were meant to be smashed with that plastic insert in Persimmons (or early metal woods) as hard as possible to transfer as much energy from the club to the ball. The springy faces of today mean a softer ball can be used and fly as far if not further.
  7. "30 year old" drivers aren't meant to hit the soft balls of today. It might help drill a consistent stroke, but it will cost distance. The old clubs do not have the 'springiness' of the thin faced drivers of today. The balls will not react the same, and generally just fall out of the sky. At least when I tried it 2 or 3 years ago. Weight distribution is another thing. I "think" I hit better drives back then because I could FEEL where that compact head was during the swing at all times. The newer lighter heads, to me anyway, seem to get lost and I don't have the same confidence in where it is at any one time. So a difference like that might effect your "feel" during the swing.
  8. I've used Frogg Toggs for less expensive solutions. Mostly known in the hunting and fishing world,
  9. RayG

    Snap Hooking Woods

    Takes all kinds, I find that "slowing down" make my snap hooks worse. Because my brain tells me to TURN OVER NOW. As the OP mentioned, I "played a draw" that was beautiful to watch... Until it wasn't. Aimed further right... Fiddled with the head adjustments and weighting. opened the stance, tried to force an over the top out to in swing... Nothin'. Just frustration. I threw everything away, moved the club adjustments to neutral, then I double checked a video of my driver swing. My grip was stronger than dirt. My right thumb was nearly or totally parallel to the ground with the left hand over layed over that. there wasn't any CHANCE of a ball going straight or right. Since the hands naturally want to get back to neutral on the downswing, I went back to a neutral grip. ding, ding... Back to a straight or soft draw. If I need a bit of left to right, I open the stance a nudge and swing along that stance. It has taken awhile to get used to a new grip and the distance isn't all the way back, but they are in play for the most part.
  10. RayG

    Oh my aching ______! (Fill in the blank)

    If I bring up an ache or a pain, my buddies basically just give me their money on the first tee. I've had a broken bone in my hand after a bunker shot on the first hole. (didn't know until later, but it hurt) Made me ease up on my grip and shoot lights out (for me). If I mention my neck or back issues are flaring up, their eyes roll and I go and beat the snot out them more than usual. Just a few weeks ago, I jacked up my thumb in a surfing incident- 3 days later I hit every fairway, but could barely grab my beer can it would hurt so much. All the injuries and aches and pains just seem to get in my head to 'take it smooth and easy" and I do well. As soon I recover, I'm back to normal spray(ish) mode and doing a lot of scrambling.
  11. Better than coming up short. I had a round a few weeks ago- 5 putts for birdie inside 8 feet. 1 went in. 1 full on horseshoed 180*, 2 90* lippers, and 1 burned the edge a bit. I looked at it as being a damn better putter than most people. Every one had the chance to go in- right speed and read. If it didn't make it to the hole, then NONE would have had a chance. Now- if you lipped out every one on the same side, then it's an aim issue... maybe. But you also said it's on public courses. That in itself puts a kink in the works. Even the slightest difference in cutting, grain, footsteps, will affect the putt if it isn't the right speed to get through them. On a course with immaculate, speedy greens, you wouldn't have the issue. But you WOULD have to worry about banging it past the hole and running 8 feet past. On public greens I will expand the "miss past" to about 3 feet instead of the 17" (or whatever "they" say it should be). Give that little extra to get through that "Fuzzy Donut" that is around every hole. (The area where nobody steps while retrieving their ball. grass stands a bit taller and will alter path/speed of ball as it nears hole)
  12. Except most people aren't very adept at it and can damage the hole. that same internal WTF you have for the picker uppers, I have for that guy who just dinged the edge of the hole because he couldn't get the ball out the first time... or the second time.
  13. RayG

    Sand Wedge Still Common?

    56*/12*B with an "S" grind- which is Vokey speak for a "sand wedge". I also have a 50*/8B "F" grind. Both are used out of the sand depending on the lie and or condition of the sand and distance to the hole. If it's really down there poached egg like, the PW comes out and it has a go at gouging out- with little bounce it will dig in instead of trying to "bounce" off.
  14. I've used this thing for many years. Much more versatile than a rubber cup thing. https://www.hornegolf.com/Golf-Ball-Pick-Up-Halo-Halo.htm It can be ordered with a clip that hangs the putter outside the bag. With the Halo, it can sometimes get caught up in the dividers at the bottom. As I know from experience, my halo is currently stuck in my bag at the bottom of the dividers.
  15. RayG

    Fix a slice with stronger grip?

    Many years ago, I wound up being paired with a certain "Tommy Bolt" while in Florida for a family visit. Caught up to them as a single and played about 15 holes with him and his buddies. I was kind of fighting an "over fade", not a wild slice but would tend to end up in right rough all the time. Otherwise I had a decent game and a decent swing. After the 14th or 15th hole and ANOTHER right sider, Mr. Bolt made a suggestion; "Try turning your left hand a bit stronger- just the left hand. Leave the right where it is... But wait until you get back to the range to try it out" "Okay, thanks, Mr. Bolt" " Call me Tommy.." Welllll, being that I thought I had a decent game, I figured I would try it on the next tee. Just a *tad* stronger on the left hand, and swing.." That duck hook went into the woods so fast I barely had time to see where it went. then from behind me I hear "You IDIOT! what I did I just tell you about waiting until you got to the range?!!!..." I turned around and he a big grin on his face and his buddies were cracking up... and so was I... He had told his cronies- "This kid is gonna do it within two holes..." So I did- I waited until we were finished, I went to the range for a bit, he walked over a few minutes later and gave a quick grip look see. A bit of fiddling with a slightly stronger left hand with a little ball position tweak and I was hitting them straight or with slight draws. So a grip change can influence the flight, but fundamentals need to be in place. I use it to work the ball occasionally when needed- a bit stronger for right to left and weaker for left to right.

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