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retexan599

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About retexan599

  • Rank
    Improving Senior
  • Birthday 11/30/1936

Personal Information

  • Your Location
    Houston, TX

Your Golf Game

  • Handicap Index
    16.0
  • Handedness
    Righty

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  1. Recently bought a Sun Mountain C-130 cart bag and really like it. Lots of room for golfer stuff. 15 full length dividers. Feels quite sturdy. Not cheap, but I think it will be worth it.
  2. I am now 76 and have been using drivers from Pinemeadow Golf for some years. Right now I am using the model shown here: http://www.pinemeadowgolf.com/golf-clubs/woods/zr1.mark2.driver . I get it in senior flex and with my preferred grip. It is working well for me and was only about $100.
  3. I recently converted my driver, 3W, 5W, and 7W from regular flex to senior flex. In all cases I am getting substantially longer distance and better accuracy. Now that I am age 76 and my swing speed is (probably) on the low end, this has made a difference for me. I don't what it would do for someone with a higher swing speed. Just FYI....
  4. When I stopped using multiple balls from the refurbished bags, I got more consistent; it took one variable out of the equation and I can concentrate on other factors without wondering about the ball. Right now I have been playing the Bridgestone E6 for some time and like them a lot.
  5. I have only recently become aware of the effect of shaft flex in my clubs, mainly due to posts in this and other forums. I am a 76 yr old senior, but have played with 'regular' flex graphite shafts for years. Recently I had purchased a 9.5* driver to compare to my 10.5* and, on a whim, ordered the 'A' (senior) flex. My drives are now averaging 15-20 yards longer. Truthfully I don't know if it is the loft or the flex, but I have a feeling it is the flex. I am going to get a 10.5* with the 'A' flex to see whether it is the flex or not. Now I am beginning to question my fairway woods and irons which are all 'regular' flex except for the 3W which is 'firm'. Never stop learning....
  6. I use a quick shorthand. The 2nd line of the scorecard is GIR, and whether it missed L, R, Lg, or S. The 3rd line is number of putts and whether missed L, R, S. The 3rd line is fairway hit, with a check mark if in the fairway, or ML, MR if missed. Starting on the 4th line, I note the clubs I used with a + or - or blank in front of it. And if it was a great shot, draw a triangle around the club, if a bad shot the triangle is upside down. Or, if I pushed the drive, it will say "-D psh". Or "6I pll" if I pulled the 6I. Then when I do my 'at home' recap of the round, I can see which club(s) I hit and how it went. I can scan across the card and see how many + or - or triangles rightside up or upside down. Gives me a way to quickly encapsulate the round. I also use the Golfshot GPS app on my iPad, so I can see the distances I hit and cross check my written card. Yep, I am an engineer and stats are ingrained.
  7. What I usually do at the driving range is to get a sense of the effect of changing a factor in my swing. Example: maybe I want to understand better the effect of tee height on my drives. So I will hit a few drives with the tee quite high, then at a medium height, then quite low. This gives me a feel for the difference(s) of varying tee height. May also do that with how far or close I am standing to the ball; what happens if I set up markedly further away, or then if I am markedly much closer. Then I can see what effect the different positions have on my result. Etc. I almost never go to the range to just hit balls, but mainly to test out the effect of swing variables. An exception is after I have had a long layoff: just go hit some balls to get my body to remember what it is supposed to be doing.
  8. It helped my consistency when I stopped using the grab bag of used balls and centered on one ball. Occasionally I change ball brands, but only deliberately and use the same brand/type for a period of time. As an engineer, I think of it as 'taking one variable out of the equation'. Agree with those above who say choose something reasonably priced. For a couple of years I used a $1 golf ball, now I use a $2 golf ball, as my index has gradually improved into the 14-16 range. When I get below 10, I will no doubt move to a $3 golf ball. Hope springs eternal.....
  9. My brother and I were there for a practice round in 2004. We walked the course backwards, from #18 to #1. This way we encountered almost every golfer who was practicing that day. It is a poignant memory because he passed away a couple of years later, but we talked about it up to the day he died. I still wear the Masters logo pullover I bought that morning for cool weather golf days. If there is golf in heaven, the course should be a copy of Augusta National.
  10. I use impact stickers from longshotgolf. The good thing about them is that I can peel them off the club face after practice and onto a piece of paper to take home and refer to later, with notes I add to explain what I was trying at the time. Like this: You can get the impact stickers at: http://www.longshotgolf.com/productdetailsheet.aspx?CategoryID=5&ProductID;=3380 I got my first stickers at golfsmith in an introductory package.
  11. Sorry you (and I) have this problem. I use the same reverse overlap for all clubs including my putter. All the right hand fingers are on the club. The forefinger of my left hand sits snugly between the third and fourth finger of my right hand. No interlocking, as knuckles are way too enlarged to fit together. I found the oversized grips to be essential as I too cannot make a closed fist with either hand and the regular grips required too much closure/pressue. Couple of other things: I switched to graphite shafts some years back to lessen the shock to my hands when striking the ball. I do not try to take a divot as that would also cause shock. The only clubs with steel shafts are my sand wedge and putter. At about hole #5, I take one tylenol for discomfort plus one ibuprofen to reduce swelling. I allow at least one day, usually two days between rounds to let my hands calm down. Some years back (15+) I had some treatments where the doctor deliberately minipulated my fingers (under anesthesia) to move the joints beyond their normal range of motion, in order to try to provide more range. This was followed by hot wax treatments (which really felt good). This definitely helped for a few years. I have thought about repeating the treatment, but decided to just live with it. I have x-rays taken at the time in which the knuckles are a white splash, indicating no cartilage left, just bone. Rather ugly looking x-ray. A doctor once told me that I was probably lucky, because osteoarthritis usually only attacks one part of the body and I 'drew the hand card', meaning that I was unlikely to get osteo elsewhere. Hope any of this helps. I do get to play golf probably twice a week, usually feeling like I have found a reasonable solution to that issue.
  12. I have arthritis in several fingers of both hands and went to oversized grips about 4 years ago. Mine are Winn Master Wrap Excel RF Oversize +1/8” Weather Black. These are very soft and feel good. I also use a reverse overlap grip to accommodate the fingers, and gloves on both hands. Once you get calibrated to all that, they work very well for me.
  13. My fairway woods are all the original Adams Tight Lies, Air Assault clubs. I do use an 11 wood, and the loft is 32 degrees. At least that is what is engraved on the sole plate: T 32* S. My 9 wood is 28*, the 7 wood is 24*, the 5 wood is 19*, and the 3wood is 13*. My longest iron is my 6I.
  14. I use the GolfShot app on my iPad. Keeps lots of stats, including yardage of your shot if you ask it to. Then it emails me a copy of the scorecard. It also keeps your stats online. Cost is about $30/yr.
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