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max power

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Everything posted by max power

  1. I'm not surprised, but also don't really care too much. Isn't it clear to everyone by now that Tiger's a bit of an ass? And that's his prerogative - as pointed out, many other Hall of Fame golfers weren't particularly nice guys. For me, I accept that Tiger is the best golfer ever, but I'm still usually rooting against him.
  2. Tons - PING Eye2, Zing, Zing2, ISI, G2, G5, G10. Wilson Staff Ci7, Ci9, Ci11, Di9, Di11. Titleist AP1, 775.CB. Callaway - Big Bertha, X-12, X-14, X-16, X-18, any Callaway iron, really. Taylormade R7, R9. Mizuno - MX20, MX25, MX200, MX300, and more.
  3. He's a 30 handicap who wants to break 100 - he has trouble around the green and has trouble making a repeatable swing. I'd say the vast majority of 30+ 'cappers, probably even 20+ 'cappers lose substantially more strokes off the tee than around the green.
  4. If you're totally lost around the greens the ball you use will make zero difference. If you have only basic competency around the greens, the ball will make little to very little difference. Focus on a repeatable swing with solid ball-first contact, then worry about the ball.
  5. You're wasting money and possibly hurting your game. Even if you're not hurting your game, you're definitely wasting money.
  6. You aren't hitting the ball shorter because of your clubs. I used to hit my Ping Zing 2s super far (145-150 yd PW), and they are 20+ year old technology. Gradually I got better and more accurate and my distance decreased, but as I said, I was better and more accurate. A 135 yd PW is still a very long PW. You won't hit player's irons any longer than your Callaways. You may like 'em better because you're in the mood for new clubs (I've been there), but you won't hit them any longer.
  7. With equal swings you should hit a 5 wood quite a bit longer. My 4 iron goes about 200, up to 210; 5 wood about 220-240.
  8. Tiger is the best golfer ever. And if he wins 18 or 19 majors to tie or beat Nicklaus, and this Masters is one of those victories, it will forever tarnish his image as a golfer and leave the argument open as to who actually won more majors. Not the situation the rule was created for, and he would have been DQ'd had it been anyone but Tiger. Golf is different than other sports, trying to get away with cheating, even something you did unintentionally, just isn't allowed/doesn't happen. Of course I would rather have Tiger contending on Sunday at any tournament, especially a major. But he should have DQ'd himself - he signed for an incorrect score.
  9. G10s were the last ones I saw that all appeared to be MIA. I'd guess about 98% of current PING stock is going to be MIC.
  10. Not that hard for your, or me, but for most "weekend golfers" I'd imagine breaking 100 legitimately is a rare occurrence. There are exceptions - in my experience they're guys who are just talented athletes. For most people swinging a golf club properly is an alien and infrequent event, and even those who enjoy it enough to get out on a regular basis don't sniff actual bogey golf without some practice and/or focus.
  11. You'd be better off with $20 towards lessons/practice and the cheapest balls you could find.
  12. Let's just agree that what matters far more is taking a proper swing. Not meant to be an insult, but ball choice is, imo, one of the very last things a 20+ handicapper should worry about. When you start hitting the ball consistently, getting it to land approximately where you want it to, and want a slightly different reaction on the green, that might be the time to worry about the ball you're playing. Tour level balls will definitely spin more, but whether that's actually preferable for your game is an entirely separate question. With my swing (nothing particularly special) a Wilson Staff Fifty Elite, Top Flite D2, or any other cheap ball will stop where it lands or back up slightly with most irons. Tour level balls back up more. Depending on the day, the course, the weather, etc, I choose to play one or another. That being said, I've rarely, if ever, played with a beginner/20+ 'capper who was hurting their score because they weren't "spinning more" when they hit the green. The ball usually misses the green completely, just gets on, or flies off the back with no chance of stopping.
  13. I've been working on restoring some iron distance the last couple months, and I keep a document saved with my average full swing distance for each club/iron set I own. Right now I'm using PING S59 irons. Driver - 907D1 with Blueboard, 270 Strong 3 - FT-IZ 13*, 256 3 Wood - PT 906F2 15*, 242 Hybrid - Cobra Baffler DWS 16*, 232 Hybrid/5 Wood - WS FyBrid 19.5*, 222 3 iron - 214 4 iron - 204 5 iron - 194 6 iron - 183 7 iron - 171 8 iron - 159 9 iron - 145 PW - 131 Vokey 52* - 110 MacGregor MT Pro 58* - 87 PING Tour-S 64* - ??? (Haven't tried with a full swing)
  14. The Adams Tom Watson wedges I own and use are just as good as my Vokey, PING, or Mizuno wedges, in some ways even better. No more than $30-$40 per wedge.
  15. Nothing wrong with a 64*, but it is harder to hit than the other wedges. Maybe not for one guy here or there, but for the vast majority of golfers it comes with a low margin of error. I think the important thing to keep in mind is that you need to learn how to hit half shots with your wedges (and probably all your irons). It will never be a skill you wasted your time on, the ability to hit a 2/3 or half shot when necessary is terribly valuable.
  16. I have only one suggestion - don't ever treat golf (lessons or equipment) as if your life is in the balance. It isn't. And he's right about getting some used clubs. A used club with a new grip feels like a new club.
  17. 9 holes after work, even par (2 birdies, 2 bogeys).
  18. I never played golf regularly for more than 5-6 months or so (a stretch in high school, after college, and then after the police academy). My dad's an avid golfer and I would usually break 90 with the occasional round in the lower 80's. I played a round in January 2009 after not picking up my clubs for 19 months and inexplicably broke 80 for the first time (76). I was hooked, and as soon as Spring showed up in 2009 I got into golf avidly for the first time in my life. Tried to play every week, hit the range when possible, practice putting regularly. I'm no great shakes, but it's gotten me to the point where I have a good shot at breaking 80 if I keep all my tee shots in play.
  19. I have a 16* hybrid and have used a 14* hybrid, but off a tee a modern driver is even easier to hit. Any issues you have are probably related to the length of the club, so the first thing I'd try is gripping up a couple inches on your driver.
  20. I was just about to say, flop shots have been played for decades - usually with a 56* or 55* sand wedge. I usually carry a 58*, but it still gets played when necessary with a 54*, 56*, 58* or 60*.
  21. The guitar advice in this thread is quite a bit worse than most of the golf advice on this forum (logically I guess). You can get a nice guitar at just about every price point above $250. You either need to know what you're looking for, or make sure it's set up properly after you get it. My American Deluxe Strat HSS is my "best" guitar (and it's really nice), but it's not noticeably "better" than my Mexican Teles, or my Korean Schecter. The Schecter I bought used, with the plastic still on the pickguard for $250, and it's fantastic. I had a regular American Strat for a while that was a dog, and I had 2 Chinese Ibanez Artcores that I never should have let go. Used/ebay is your best option for getting a mid-range guitar at the lowest possible price - all kinds of really nice Mexican Teles or Korean Schecters/PRS SEs can be had. If buying new and spending $350 or less my top recommendation is a Classic Vibe Squier Strat or Tele.
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