klineka

You're wrong. The best players on tour last year were all around 70% GIR or higher. Thats 12-13 GIR per round, every single round. That's pretty freaking high considering how hard golf is and the length of the courses they play. But you could save even more shots if you practiced the driver to the point where you kept it in play and hit it 275+ instead of 230 with your 2 iron. Then your driving accuracy is a glaring weakness and should be the thing you spent the most time practicing. Just because the pros use long irons for tight courses doesn't mean it is the statistically best option for them off the tee. Most of the people on this forum are aware how important distance is in golf, and if they can't hit it straight enough to keep it in bounds, they are actively working on it. You are only hindering your long term scoring capabilities by refusing to work to improve your driver accuracy. So no, it's unlikely that you'll find many people on this forum who are happy with irons only and aren't at the very least working to improve their driver.

I will typically raise my foot up a bit to catch the flag as it is falling, then let it roll onto the ground/green from there.

It's not really a fix, but have you tried using different lofts, maybe like a bump and run with a gap wedge or a pitching wedge? Surely not every time you need to hit a pitch shot it needs to be with a 54 degree loft and the face laid open, right?

I cut the screw part off, and used 3M double-sided tape. Have had it on for over a year without issue. I went with the tape compared to the glue simply for ease of removal if I decided to change grips or putters. I think this is the link @iacas was referring to. http://support.gamegolf.com/customer/en/portal/articles/1668047-there-is-a-blocker-or-weight-in-my-grip-how-can-i-screw-the-tag-in-?b_id=7220

I would slow your motion down and do half speed/half shots with the correct motion/feeling you want and then slowly increase the speed, but only increase it once you have gotten the desired motion down. If you speed up and feel that you lost the motion you want, slow it back down. Feelings of extreme/over exaggerations help me a lot too. Example, One of my main priority pieces is steady head, so often I try for the FEELING of my head moving backward away from the target (even though it never actually does) When I review on video, some of my steadiest head swings are ones where my head feels like it has moved 3-4+ inches backward away from target, when in reality it is staying perfectly still.

For one, the lofts are different. The 5 iron loft of the AP2 is 25 degrees and its 23 degree on the M3. Second, Some pro players like Jordan Spieth play the AP2 on tour, there isn't anyone that I'm aware of that plays the M series irons on tour. There's a reason for that. The clubs are in two completely different club categories as I mentioned in my first post on this topic. One thing people might not like is how "hot" the M3 can be since it is a players distance iron. Hitting a club flush and having it go 10 yards further than you expect is not a good thing when you are trying to be precise going into greens. It all depends on the skill of @Thaxten_Land and what he wants in an iron, but its not accurate to state that there isn't a significant difference between these two clubs because there is, and that's why I recommended that he should get fit for both if he hasn't already, and take a look at the numbers and see which is the best option for both his current game and his game progressing in the future.

https://www.golftrainingaids.com/collections/full-swing-aids/products/all-in-one-swing-trainer

Dont think about it too much! Keep working on your weaknesses as you normally would, just use this new information to help you when you hit a shot that didnt have the ball flight you intended. On the ball flights of mine that excessively draw or slice, especially at the range, I think about why the ball moved the way that it did and try to correct it for the next shot. Most of the time I'm not thinking about the clubface to path relationships during my actual swing unless I'm hitting a recovery shot that HAS to move to the right or the left.

By "come across the ball" you mean out to in swing path, then your answer is no. If you have a 1 degree in to out swing path and your clubface is open to that path, the ball will start right of your target and curve further right. A good quote that has helped me is something along the lines of "the ball starts (roughly) where the face is aimed and curves away from the club path" That is how someone with an OTT movement or an outside to inside path can produce a pull draw. The face being closed to the out to in club path will result in a ball that starts left (face) and curves further away from the out to in club path. To get a straight push to the right with minimal curve, you'd have an inside to out swing path and the clubface would match the path (so the clubface would be open to your target, but the face would match the path. Ball would start right, and just fly straight right along the path.

In order for the ball to curve to the right, the clubface has to be open to the club path. That's it. You can make the ball move to the right and still have an in to out club path. https://thesandtrap.com/b/playing_tips/ball_flight_laws I dont think it really matters. Typically, if I start the ball left of target and it comes back somewhere close to where I was aiming, I'm calling that a fade. If I was trying to start the ball middle and it ends up starting right and going further right, I'm more likely to call that a slice than I am a fade

Have you been custom fit for each? What are your yardages and spin rates with each? What is your handicap? Why the 716 AP2 and not the 718 AP2? They are two different classes of clubs too, the AP2 is more of a players iron like the P770, Callaway X forged, etc, while the M3 is more of a players-distance iron similar to the P790 and the AP3

Because prior to launch monitors, people saw that draws went further than fades, without realizing that loft was changing which accounted for the main differences in distance on the two shot shapes. All else equal, draws and fades go the same distance.

Start here: Also start a Member Swing thread if you haven't already. You can get some free advice there about your specific swing, and if you committed to regularly posting in your swing thread, that might be that extra kick/motivation you need to keep improving. Although I will say you can build a very solid and functional swing by following the Five Simple Keys listed in the topic above even if you dont start a swing thread.

The same reason you (hopefully) repair your ball marks on the green even though ball marks aren't ground under repair. It's about respecting the course and trying to leave it in an equal or better place than you found it.

All of what I'm about to say is