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About GOATee

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  1. GOATee

    Conflicting Fittings

    Bingo. Chances are you were fresher, and used a faster tempo one of the days. The question is which day represents better your usual swing tempo. For example, if I got fit for an iron and used 80% of my max swing speed one day and 60% another day, I would probably be fit for different shafts. The question is whether I am usually going to be using 60% or 80% swing speed on average. Usually I would recommend going for the softer shaft, because sometimes we get tired and swing speed falls, so why play with a shaft that needs you to play at your best all the time.
  2. XLR8 is lighter and softer torque for the same flex. Kuro Kage is heavier, stiffer torque for the same flex, and more mid and tip stiff.
  3. A speciality wedge is designed to hit partial swings and chips (and can still hit full swings), while an iron set wedge is designed mainly just for full swings. If you look at a speciality wedge head, it is heavy, chunky and spinny with grind for turf interaction, and the shaft is usually softer than an iron's. These characteristics are optimized for a partial swing/chip, not the full swing. Good players usually use the sand wedge and lob wedge not for full swings but for partial swings for better control. Some also do this with the gap wedge and maybe the pitching wedge. If you got speciality gap/sand/lob wedges and calculated all your gapping under 60 yards with a partial swings instead of using full swings, you may have more control around the green.
  4. Pitching wedges usually have iron-like heads more adapted for full swings, while Dedicated/speciality wedges have chunky heads more adapted for partial swings and chips (yes usually with more spin). If you are mainly using the wedge for full swings, the set PW is better. If you are mainly using the wedge for partial swings, the dedicated wedge is better. I came to this conclusion after trying both types over a few years.
  5. Agree with this. There are two shots that are best done with a high-lofted wedge. Deep bunkers and really really short chips. You could do them with a 56 degree but it is just harder.
  6. GOATee

    Titleist “TS” hybrid ?

    No. Recently, Titleist has been releasing hybrids with the irons. For example 818H1/H2 came out same time as 718AP1/AP2/AP3 I would expect the new hybrid to come out with the next irons, 720?(or maybe renamed TS2) series, which should come out late 2019.
  7. GOATee

    Advice needed please

    712 AP2 is a very classic player's iron. Take a blade iron, dig a little cavity and move some weight to the perimeter to increase the forgiveness for off-center hits and you get the 712 AP2. 716 AP2 is you take the 712, increase the cavity size for even more forgiveness for off-center hits, and add tungsten to toe and heel for more forgiveness of heel-toe off-center hits. 712 feels more classic, 716 has more forgiveness for off-center hits. Your call what you prefer.
  8. Get fit for both a new driver and wood with stock shafts. If they are the correct fit, the stock shafts should be more than good enough. It will be better and cheaper in the long run than buying aftermarket shafts for your current clubs. Don't end up with a huge waste of money trying the wrong shafts like many golfers including myself. If you are lost where to start, you can try Ping G400 Max driver with PING Alta CB 55 Regular or Stiff shaft (stock shaft) Ping G400 Fairway 3-wood with PING Alta CB 65 Regular or Stiff shaft (stock shaft) These clubs are playable by a very large number of beginner golfers.
  9. You need to get fit. Even experienced golfers do because there are just too many different shafts to keep track of.
  10. At your current 90-96 swingspeed, you should be using shafts 4.2-5.5 torque. Don't just look at flex, look at torque (tip torque), that is a more accurate way to tell stiffness. The VX was about 5.5 torque, the NV around 3.5. No surprise you could not launch the NV. Some shafts are soft in the middle and some stiff in the middle. The mid-soft shafts are better for slower swing-speeds, the mid-stiff are usually only for very high swing-speeds. The Fubuki Z is mid-stiff so not suitable for your swingspeed no matter the flex. Stay away from Kuro Kage, Fubuki, Aldilas, what you need is the older softer Diamanas like S+plus. Apart from that you need to find out whether you prefer 50g or 60g shafts, what is your preferred swingweight (suggest something between D1-D6) and stick with it. Since there is so much to figure out, you should get fitted.
  11. Then this is your pool https://www.golfdigest.com/hot-list/golf-clubs/players-irons
  12. GOATee

    Gapping? Rogue 4H-Rogue 5i.

    See if your hybrid hosels can be adjusted to increase loft.
  13. Driver swing speed 110mph for sure needs at least 60g shaft. KuroKage silver Tini Stiff 60 is a well-known shaft, mid-stiff and low-launch, which may or may not suit you, try out first before buying. 2014 New "Paragon Pro X2" 85grams never heard of it, sounds more risky to try a lesser-known model with such a large weight jump. Iron shaft weight for sure is important too. Too light too whippy. Too heavy too tiring.
  14. Yes there are many differences other than shaft weight/flex and driver head weight that matter. For the shaft, look at the torque difference. The 4.9 vs 5.3 torque shows the newer shaft is actually stiffer. You probably need the stiffer shaft for a 270 yard driver swing. For the head, the G400 vs G15 head has a ridiculous number of differences. MOI higher, CG further back, smaller head more aerodynamic, probably lower spin than older models. MOI means the face twists less on off-center hits, achieved by putting the CG further back through using lighter materials. The more aerodynamic smaller head may feel easier to control in the swing and give higher clubhead speed. Newer models usually have lower spin than older models. Maybe your spin was too high on the older models and this was losing you distance.

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