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Adam C

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  1. It's just tape I am sure, issue is just with that hard tip and butt section and how it connects to the softer middle. Good luck.
  2. Dremel is a great option. You can cut steel and graphite shafts with it. prep shafts (with some practice), could even clean out hosels with it with the right attachment.
  3. If you have been doing regrips you are already well on your way. There is nothing mystical about club making, just geometry, physics, and common sense. If you've got the vise (by far most important tool), torch or heat gun, and a drill as mentioned, those are 3 big basics. Here is what I would add. Utility knife 48 inch ruler epoxy (start with quick set) sand paper (medium and fine grit) hacksaw, manual pipe cutter, rotary tool, or chop saw. Of course if you have a built out shop a belt sander is useful, as is the chop saw, but you can do all the same stuff with manual tools. If you have specific questions about picking shafts, I would ask those separately as you have to be more specific dealing with tip diameter, weight, length, flex, etc. I would look at some videos on Youtube as a starting point. I recommend finding the Mobile Clubmaker.
  4. If it's a Winn, or Superstroke etc style grip with a hard tip and butt cap section (multiple materials) the slim jim style tool is difficult to use. Best bet is with air compressor or inject solvent into the grip in different spots and work it loose that way.
  5. Correct, there is a graphic in the video with that caveat exactly. The face orientation can be in any direction as long as it is consistently used in that same position. The face at the target just insures that the loft number stated on the hosel will be accurate.
  6. I know these questions come up on here from time to time. Think this video can help if you want to understand all the details.
  7. Club Conex offers a couple products that allow for a conventional hosel modification for interchangeable heads. Pieces are around $10-$20 each for a head or shaft. This will add weight to the overall club in the end, both swing weight and static weight so you want to at least be aware of that. Look at the FAZ fit or the FUSE fit product line. One is epoxied inside the hosel and the other you epoxy to the outside of the hosel. Have not used it but looks like you need to sand the outside of the hosel for that one so there is no going back as you will mess up the look of the shaft. The final club lengths will also need to be adjusted depending on which one you use.
  8. You would have to bore out those hosels to get back to a .355 if they are in fact smaller than that. Just make sure it's not just a case of leftover debris in there. Adapters won't help.
  9. The 7 in HD7 refers to the weight, 70g. The flex may or may not be printed on the shaft as I have seen some without it. There should also be a sticker on the butt end of the shaft with the CPM number on it under the grip. Would have to remove the grip and hope the sticker was not removed at some point.
  10. Have you had hands on time with it yet? Also do you have pricing info?
  11. Only you can answer that question. If you hit certain clubs poorly, then you may need to adjust swing weight if it's one of the outliers. The only one that really stands out to me is the AW. I might add some lead tape to that one and get it up a little. The rest I am less concerned with assuming you hit them okay, comparatively.
  12. Don't do it, that's my advise. The idea is counterproductive for most golfers. You are adding to the static weight of the club to "trick" a swing weight scale into showing lower numbers. If you really want/need to lower SW, you need to reduce head weight, change shafts to lighter or counterbalanced, or shorten club. I know these options are more complicated but it is the better way.
  13. Little confused by your comments concerning the offset being the problem. Titleist makes some of the least offset clubs on the market across the board including hybrids. Probably less offset than TM. I am thinking this is more of a weight issue than an offset issue. Shaft weight and swing weight. Would really make sure you have the correct shaft weight in that hybrid as they can be all over the map as far as what the OEMs choose to install stock. That being said, the new TM hybrids will look very similar in general to the old Rescues.
  14. Actually, weight is by far and away the most important spec of any shaft. Way more important than, flex, bend profile, torque, even radial consistency. Getting the weight right is a must, the other stuff is more fine tuning at best. If you want to know better before you go ahead and reshaft, get some lead tape and run strips down the length of the shaft starting an inch or so below the grip. Put 10g of tape on and go hit it. Add or subtract until you get the feel and dispersion you are looking for. You may find you want it even heavier, say around 70 or maybe lighter say 62. Then you can pick your shaft based off that.
  15. I'm done. I will let the OP, or any other readers for that matter, decide for themselves if they want to consider my opinions on this.
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