Jump to content

Adam C

Established Member
  • Content Count

    256
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

121 Multiple Major Winner

About Adam C

  • Rank
    Well Established Member

Personal Information

  • Your Location
    Atlanta

Your Golf Game

  • Handicap Index
    4
  • Handedness
    Righty

Recent Profile Visitors

864 profile views
  1. You are probably low on the out the door price you could quickly end up with if you buy from them. Figure $125 for the fitting, that may or may not be credited back to the purchase price based on the fitting company. Driver head will be $450-$550. Shafts will probably be in the $300-$450 range as to what they recommend. Also they will tack on a $30 shaft PUREing charge and another $10 for the grip often. I have heard many people walk out with a $900 driver recommendation. My advise, go get fit, get the info for what seemed to be working well for you. Don't just look for one perfect shaft, look for shaft traits that seem to work with your swing. Most important element of a shaft is the weight, followed by balance point. After that shaft consistency, then bend profile. At the very bottom is torque. Find the right shaft weight and you are most of the way there. Then you can take those specs, along with the head type and related specs and go a few different ways. You can order the club new and find a stock or upgrade option that matches well against your fitting results. Or you can buy the head and shaft separately on eBay or a good golf forum. If you really feel the need to spend $900, to have a custom built driver then go ahead, in the end it's your money. Personally I don't think there is a golf club on the planet worth that.
  2. I will go ahead and answer your question you are asking. The X line is different in 3 ways from the standard Rogue, all of which are designed purely to up the distance. First, the X line is physically longer by 1/4 inch over the Rogue. Figure the standard Rogue is also a bit long (talking static length here) to start with so the X could be considered 1/2 inch over standard. Second, the lofts are around 3 degrees stronger than the Rogue line (and the Rogue line is pretty strong to begin with). Third, the X line is 3 points lighter on the swing weight scale. Now as far as I can recall the shaft options are the same for both, so that means that the X line has a much lighter headweight. The first two differences probably won't make any difference as to which you like more, but the SW difference would be the one I would be most concerned with. With your current game as you described it, I would think the light weight shouldn't bother you. The other consideration is if the club does end up feeling light, you can always add some lead tape to the head to increase that feel. You can't however go the other way if it's too heavy in the case of the standard Rogues.
  3. Lofted fairway woods are usually going to be more forgiving than lower lofted hybrids and this is even more likely to be the case if your swing speed is on the slower side.
  4. The SE shaft I believe is around 80 grams and mid launch. Really nothing special about it. Again, get the weight close and you are going to usually be pretty good.
  5. 3M brand is a good one for epoxy. The DP420 two part is used by many OEMs. When it comes down to it, most 2 part epoxies will work as long as they have a lap/shear strength of 2500-4000 psi.
  6. This is not true. You can not use a .355 ferrule on a .370 tip shaft. I will not fit. These are .370 irons, so you will need the matching size ferrule. You can go the other way and use a .370 ferrule on a .355 shaft, and I often do, but not the other way.
  7. You are going to need .370 tip ferrules, that is the inside diameter. As far as outside diameter, you need to get a caliper and measure the outside diameter of the hosel to see what you need. Ideally you would buy ferrules that have a slightly larger OD than the hosel so you could turn them down, however that can be intimidating to many new club builders. If you don't want to mess with it at all, you can get ferrules that are slightly smaller OD than the hosel and not have to do anything with them. Club builders will shake their heads at this but it works and still looks okay when you're all done. Shameless self promotion. If you look up Mobile Clubmaker on Youtube, I have a series of videos on club making including ones specifically on installing and turning down ferrules if you want to do it the professional way. Best of luck.
  8. I am playing a set of Mizuno MP-18 MMCs, and really like them. They have a thin cavity, thin top line, and minimal offset. The SC version would also work. New MP-20s would be similar. Also if you don't mind a bit thicker top, something like the Callaway Rogue Pros are smaller headed with very little offset. Again every company makes a small headed cavity back at this point. Might also want to check out some of the component options. Maltby has some heads that would fit the bill if you don't care about what name is stamped on your irons.
  9. Every brand makes a cavity version along with a blade version of their players clubs. These still won't be that forgiving but more so than a true muscle back blade. If you are looking to make them a bit more playable try matching these heads up with a lighter (sub 115g) shaft. But again, Mizuno, Srixon, Titleist, Callaway, TaylorMade, just to name a few brands.
  10. It's really just a gimmick. The reason why most wedges don't have grooves all over the face is because you don't make contact with the face in those areas. If you are, then you have bigger issues than a lack of spin and you should probably be looking at something more forgiving like Cleveland CBX. I know if you open the face and take a full swing you may miss out on the high toe more often, but I don't think I have ever made contact on those parts of the face. This is just TaylorMade and Callaway trying to steal a little more market share from Titleist Vokeys.
  11. I am just going to answer the question's you are asking, and not getting into the fitting discussion. The shaft difference in terms of length between mens and women's is 1 inch. That being said, manufacturers have made the "standard" driver so long that you would easily be able to use the women's length at 5'10" regardless of flex. I am 6ft and use a 44.5 driver (which in this case would be standard women's length). The senior flex shaft will be slightly stiffer, but if you can hit one, you can usually hit the other. Only caveat is if you always miss with a slice or have issues with launch height, a softer shaft can help. The stiffer shaft will be heavier in total weight by a few grams. The swing weight will also be heavier with the senior club. I would say figure out how hard you swing the club and if your miss is as described above, to determine the flex. However if you do go with the senior club, I would play it at 44.5, not at 45.5 length. A 45.5 driver rarely does you any favors.
  12. Just looked at the specs of the TS1, and it is exceptionally light. 175g head (compared to 197g average), 45g shaft, and 30g grip. So I was mistaken in that it is lighter than the stock options from other companies. You can get to those numbers with other OEMs but it may require an upgrade charge somewhere. That being said, that is super light and I don't know how the swing weight can't be in the mid C range. You definitely would want to hit a club like that before buying. It may work for you but you also might hate it.
  13. Compared to what? TS4 or other Titleist drivers, probably so. TM M6, Callaway Epic Flash, Cobra F9, etc, won't know until you compare but probably less difference. Every company has a driver meant to go high and far, and then a driver meant to go low with low spin for high speed players. If you are in the right category for your swing, the individual brand will probably make less difference. But like iacas said, need to hit them to see.
  14. There is no reason why you have to play the club at any given length. The lengths are in the end all arbitrary numbers decided on by OEMs and based on what an average player would need. However, a big caveat, to this, is that if you are going to play the clubs at these longer lengths, then you would have to make numerous other adjustments to the club in theory to make it play correctly and feel right for you. This would include reweighting the heads to lower the swing weight, changing the lie angles to fit based on your swing with the longer clubs, changing the lofts to achieve the correct gapping you are looking for, possibly changing the shafts to a different flex to achieve the feel you want, that may have been lost from the length and or head weight changes. But in theory, the club might just work right out of the gate and require no alterations. Heck the clubs I am using right now, have a 1/2 inch step down length from the 4-6 and then move to a 1/4 step down from the 7-P. I did however have to adjust the weight, lie, and lofts for the clubs to balance the set correctly. All this is to say, find what works for you.
  15. Why not switch out a 4 with one of the wedges when you know you are playing a course that demands it. Assuming you feel that you would gain more with that 4 vs. the least used wedge you would pull out. At home, just bench the 4 and go back to your current setup.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...