Jump to content

Adam C

Established Member
  • Content Count

    291
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

138 Multiple Major Winner

About Adam C

  • Rank
    Well Established Member

Personal Information

  • Your Location
    Atlanta

Your Golf Game

  • Handicap Index
    4
  • Handedness
    Righty

Recent Profile Visitors

1,042 profile views
  1. I wouldn't even worry about torque numbers as a comparison. If you look at torque measurement on current graphite shafts versus 5 or 10 years ago, they are all much higher. I don't know that they ever made much difference other than making a shaft feel sharp and rigid but with current manufacturing and materials, those numbers don't need to be in the sub 3s pretty much ever. I always tell people to pick the shafts based first on weight (by far most important), 2nd balance, 3rd is a tie between radial consistency (this is how I measure the quality of a shaft, difference of hard to soft side stiffness), and bend profile, then color, price, and torque bringing up the rear.
  2. Just keep it simple. If you like the white board feel, go with another white board shaft. If you are looking for something that is carried stock by the OEM, just find something in the low 60s gram weight, non-counterbalanced, and with a low launching profile (ie a stiffer mid section). Disregard torque, it is of little to no value worrying about that number. If you are concerned about how the flex will feel I would again stay in the Diamana family and just go back a couple model years to find the price point you want.
  3. Realize you might not know what white board refers to so. You can get a Diamana D plus on Golfworks brand new for $129. Of course you can try Ebay but need to be a bit more cautious about where you buy it.
  4. Golf shafts are golf shafts. They have no mystical qualities that cause the ball to do anything other than what your swing provides. Golf shaft specs can influence your sequencing and timing which can effect your speed and contact. And to a limited extent they can influence your launch height/spin and ability to close the face. Because of this, you can find any number of shafts that will perform exactly the same as any other shaft. Simplest start would be to look at slightly older Diamana White board shafts. Most important is match up the weight. You can get those shafts for around $100 and get the same results with them.
  5. Reshaft will cost around $20. Are you worried about the club being too heavy or too light? The shaft change will only be about 8-10 grams of weight and I believe the NV is pretty tip heavy so I would guess you would end up around D2-D3 when you're done.
  6. Guessing you took time during your lunch break at Club Champion to write this post. I think we have to use a different description than "the few extra dollars" if we are talking about an $800 driver for example. If people want to go to Club Champion to get fit, try out different heads, and find the shaft characteristics that work well for their game, I am completely in favor of that. But don't try and push the idea that Club Champion is more knowledgeable or capable than hundreds of club builders out there. Go get fit, then walk out the door. Things turn shady real quick in my opinion once money comes into the equation there.
  7. Feel free to send me what they spec out for you. I have never personally done a CC fitting as I have some issues with their entire fitting belief, however I have seen enough fitting results and heard feedback to have a good understanding of how they work. Specifically on the upselling of shafts. Seems like a whole lot of people end up "needing" premium shafts that aren't even offered by the OEMs. Interested to see what they come up with for you.
  8. No they can't. Club fitters may also be club builders, but that is a pretty big assumption. There are far more fitters out there than actual club builders who know what they are doing. Also don't assume that a club fitter knows how to properly measure a club's lie/loft, etc. From my understanding, CC does not even build clubs in individual store locations. They build them all in Chicago and then ship them out from there.
  9. Not sure how many fitters are going to be stocking 2017 P790s or AP3s at this point.
  10. If you feel like the wedge is noticably heavy and you have issues swinging through with it then yes. If you never thought about it until reading this post, I probably wouldn't worry about it as much. If you do want to change like I said above, I might go with some weight in-between your irons and wedge.
  11. You should probably just try it and see if the weights are too far off. That's a pretty huge weight jump, 65 to 128g, not to mention graphite to steel. If the jump is too big I might consider going with something in-between say 80-90 gram recoil. 65g wedge shaft would be pretty light.
  12. From how I understand it, they could possibly be from 2 different manufacturers during the same driver model based on supply needs from Ping. If you like the shafts I would worry more about the specs (weight, balance point, bend profile, etc) as both Aldila and UST, not to mention Fuji, Mitsu, Graphite Design, PX all make really good stuff at this point. If you know the weight first, balance second, and basic bend profile third, you can easily find something from any of those brands that will work well for you. But I will keep an eye out if Ping ever divulges any info on their suppliers.
  13. They are Ping designs, but manufactured by someone else, previously Aldila and some UST. Assuming that is still the case but can't say for sure.
  14. Just as a side note since it does not sound like the OP was considering this option, but using a heavier grip to "lower" the swing weight is not a good idea and doesn't really do anything to make the club more playable. You are only tricking the swing weight scale because of the fulcrum location. All you have really done is increase the static weight of the total club which is going in the opposite direction of the goal of a lighter club.
  15. I have not personally used those Accra iron shafts before but I would say that you have in fact already bought them, then I would give them some time before you make any decisions about alterations. At least 5-10 range sessions and a few rounds with them. If you haven't bought them, I would say that 123g graphite shafts are really heavy and probably not best suited for someone with your speed. They may help with the joints but they aren't going to offer anything to help with speed or distance. I would be looking in the sub 90g range. If you do own them, you would need to change the shafts more than just change swing weights from removing possible tip weights.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...