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Adam C

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Adam C last won the day on August 30

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About Adam C

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  1. Go back and look at Golf Digests Hot List from 5-7 years ago online and find the game improvement category. The Hot List is a bit of a joke I realize but you will see the offerings from all the big companies for that year. Then just go on Ebay and see what you can find putting in whichever club looks good. Ping, Callaway, Taylormade, Cobra, Cleveland, all good options.
  2. Few different things to look at here. First as already mentioned 6.5K spin is really high and no shaft is going to bring that down by itself. I would like to see that number under 3000. I would suggest taking a look at where you are making contact on the face of the club as that can greatly influence the spin numbers. Also just fyi, that head is going to produce more spin than something from the last 4 or 5 years. I would almost be tempted to say find a new driver and just go with the shaft that comes with it. What loft is on the current driver as that will also play a big role in spin and launch? Also did not see any mention of ball flight height. Assuming its really high, but wanted to check if it starts high or rises up after launch. If you want comp shaft recommendations to the Slay, which is technically mid price range by todays pricing, there are tons out there. VA actually calls this shaft a high launch, low spin design. Now technically that isn't really possible as launch and spin go together ie high/high or low/low. It really looks more like a mid launch and spin design to me. Similar options to look at could be Aldila Tour Blue 55g (Ebay around $60), any Mitsubishi Blue board style (will say blue in name or have blue color on it) again in 55g (Ebay around $80-$200 depending on model) would be too options. What else did you hit during the fitting, as that could help narrow down options. Last thing, I might watch this video below I did concerning finding the ideal set up for your driver. Again the swing is going to be the biggest influence but impact position on the face will also play a large role.
  3. I bought a couple of the TE heads that I will eventually get around to building for a video. So I have not actually hit them but I can say that they look really good. Never quite know what a club will look like in person compared to pictures, but these don't have any issues in appearance.
  4. One inch extra will give you about 5-6 SW points assuming nothing else was changed with head weights or grips. Sorry, I don't have any tips on where to go for knowledgeable building/fitting up by you. Maybe someone else here will have a recommendation.
  5. You can do it, it will require a couple modifications as the Callaway hosels are .370 and the Pings are .355 tip. Simplest way is to just sand down the tips on the graphite shafts a bit. Can also ream out the Ping hosels alternately but I personally don't like that method, although some club makers will go that route. You will also want to countersink the end of the hosel a bit. Trying to remember my Eye2 design (have not worked on one in years), but I think you need to do that with those heads just to protect the graphite. Also be aware that the Ping final length may not be what you think it will be after install since different heads will have different bottom bore to ground depths. May end up a little shorter or longer.
  6. You know I used to think that the starter sets were less durable because I would see broken stuff come into the shop frequently. But more recently I have started believing that it's less about the club and more about the beginner golfer swinging it badly and causing more issues. Are the quality of the materials lower on a starter set, yes. But I am not sure how much less durable they are compared to a more expensive set used by the same quality of golfer. Obviously if the golfer is very fast/strong, these clubs may fail more often but you could say that about any golf club. However, on the question of consistency, I do believe there will be a bigger difference because the quality control of the specs and component pieces will not be as strict with a starter set.
  7. The starter sets are going to basically put you in technology from 20 years ago. Single metal head builds, wide soled cavity backs, basic 460cc driver. Quality of materials and finishes will be less than higher priced sets. Quality control will also be less strict. They are great for learning with as they will probably get beat up, and are simple and cheap intro to golf. The Callaway XR or other newer clubs will be made up of better component pieces, have nicer finishes, and be more consistent through the set most likely.
  8. Offset does a few different things. It moves the CG of the club farther back. This will cause the club head to move farther forward in an attempt to align the cg and the handle of the club. The result is a little more loft, though it's really small. Could also cause a touch more toe closure but this would be even smaller than the loft change but would result in less slice. The CG moved back can also give the iron a bit more gear effect so that toe hits draw back a bit compared to a club with the CG more forward. It also in theory puts the hands slightly more ahead of the face compared to no offset. This tiny distance could in theory allow extra time to rotate the face closed and not slice it. More offset clubs also generally fall closed at set up based on the offset in conjunction with the sole design, and this desire to naturally sit closed will also promote more draw or less slice. That is how offset is meant to work. Of course none of that explains why you were hitting the Titleist's fat specifically, but most likely some combination of the way the club looks, sits, or maybe other variable like weight or length is causing the issues.
  9. Stiff will in theory give you a slightly higher ball flight/higher spin/slightly more closed face. This is what should happen. Usually very small amount just going between flexes though, ie stiff vs S or R vs S. Bigger influence again is the weight of the shaft and this is extra important b/c you are looking at KBS who weights by stiffness. Other brands don't have 10g weight differences between flexes in a certain shaft model so all the differences we discussed would be even less. Since KBS does this, just want to be aware of it. I think stiff weight is still plenty heavy for you. You already hit the differences between the heads. Mav slightly more forgiving heel to toe, slightly higher, stronger lofts. Apex slightly less forgiving but better overall dispersion, slightly shorter, forged so they can be bent for lies and lofts. Mavs can usually only bend a degree or so without sending to Callaway.
  10. Get them fit for the lie you need right now. No need to hinder yourself with an incorrect lie angle based on some future possible swing. Yes, you can always bend them down the road if you need to make changes. Just make sure you find someone who knows what they are doing and doesn't break or dent anything. Your second fitting with I am assuming a GC Quad should be much better than the Trackman. Trackman is great outdoors but can have issues with indoor use as you have limited down field range for the Doppler to pick up.
  11. New driver heads will be lighter than older ones because they are matching up with longer shafts.
  12. One degree of line angle actually comes out looking like 10 degree move off the center line on the club face because of the geometry so it's very obvious when looking at the result if you need to make a change. If the line is only "leaning" slightly one way or the other, then better to leave it where it is. The graphic at the end of the video makes it easy to compare and calculate what needs to be done.
  13. Cleveland CBX2 should be at the top of your list. I have a CBX1 that looks quite traditional at set up. It's 59 and I hit it whenever the lie is crap or I just am in one of those close your eyes and hope type spots. Traditional look with lots of forgiveness and versatility for what it is. The CBX2s look way better also. I recently built a set of them for someone and they look good.
  14. Just knowing the number (and this assumes that the person measuring knows what they are doing) does little good by itself. You need to take the club and hit it with a vertical line check to actually see what the club is doing at impact. From there you can decide if you need any adjustments. That being said, one degree will be a small influence on face direction, maybe 1 yard offline for the 6 iron assuming you hit it around 150. Here is the way to check in case you need it.
  15. They will always be slower because they have to order the clubs from OEM, break them down, rebuild, and ship to the store where you bought them. Gapping is pure distance, finding the right lofts to cover your distances. You could look at the Apex gap if you plan on playing it for more full shots. Will be more forgiving than Vokey or other blade styles. Titleist is always a good one, but Callaway, Cleveland, Taylormade and Mizuno all make great wedges also. Just depends on what looks best to your eye as they all have slightly different head shapes, sizes, offsets, etc. If you can't actually hit them on grass, I wouldn't put much stock in trying them indoors. Pick what looks good in your hand and go practice.
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