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Adam C

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About Adam C

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    Well Established Member

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  • Your Location
    Atlanta

Your Golf Game

  • Handicap Index
    4
  • Handedness
    Righty

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  1. Saw you also posted this on another forum. Not sure with this one, but I know that numerous club fitters are on that site including CC fitters. Pretty sure your squeaky wheel got the grease (or the new heads) after posting about your escapade. Enjoy the sticks.
  2. It may be true with some off-brand infomercial type clubs as I have never checked any of them but with all the technology out there measuring ball data and with adjustable drivers it would be hard to sneak past the consumer and what would be the point.
  3. Just FYI. This isn't true. I used to hear this 15 years ago about old Callaway Big Bertha drivers but never actually measured one so I can't say for sure. However, I have measured enough modern driver heads to say that they are usually within .5 degrees up or down of what they print on the hosel.
  4. Ha Ha. He plays graphite shafts, what a loser! Is this really a thing? You need to be pretty hard up on insults to go after graphite iron shafts. For the people I play with the insults never come from what you are hitting, it's always how you hit them.
  5. No I wouldn't say that. Each club or group of clubs has certain elements that should be "fit" to the golfer. Drivers should have the correct weight, length, loft, grip size, swing weight etc, and this can be done in doors for many golfers and get the results you need. Wedges need to have the correct lofts and lies but this is much harder to discern indoors. Grinds can be important depending on the golfer but really need to be addressed outdoors on grass.
  6. No, assuming that you have a basic understanding of what you should be looking for. Wedge fitting, especially indoors is a huge waste of time personally. Wedges should ideally be adjusted after you have played with them a bit or at least spent some time at the chipping green. Then you can bend the lie angle or grind them down to fine tune what you need.
  7. Pretty sure the monitor will be accurately telling you how far and high you hit a foam ball. Don't know what that is worth unless you have some sort of conversion table of foam to real golf balls. In all seriousness, you need real golf balls with any of these systems as they are measuring the ball data and have preset info set into them so foam will most likely confuse them.
  8. True. Of course then you are paying $45 for the new finish vs. $20 per shaft for these. Can't justify paying that much.
  9. This is funny b/c I just reshafted my Mizuno with a set of KBS Tours in that same finish since I was bored and wanted to try something different. I used my belt sander on all the shafts and had the finish peel on one of the wedges. Only the one out of 8 I did had that issue. Also recently did a set of TMs with KBS $ tapers with a black finish but didn't have any peeling with those. I really just sand down to where I don't see any more black color and the tip looks almost copper-ish in color. I assembled them and have played a couple times with no issue with the peel since its locked into the hosel and ferrule at this point. My advise is just don't over sand them, and you should be good.
  10. I think I put this video on here before but it seems like a good place to go if you have any questions about tightening up the driver without going through a full fitting.
  11. If you are hitting on both sides of the face I would definitely look at shortening the shaft some first and see if that can tighten it up a bit. Start by just gripping down 1/2 inch at a time and see where you get the best strike pattern. At that point you can start adding some head weight need be to get the feel back with a shorter club. Also along with this, you can take a piece of lead tape and run it down the back of the shaft starting an inch below the grip. A 12 inch piece will be about 10 grams. Again, see what this does for your consistency to give you a better idea of idea shaft weight. I've always said that if you can fit yourself, the results will be better assuming you know what to look for. Professional fittings can be misleading either from the fitter or from the environment (ie indoor, launch monitor issues, inconsistent swing). Not to say you shouldn't do a fitting, but definitely understand what's important especially to your particular game.
  12. Don't assume that you need lighter based on some online charts alone. You should look at impact location on your driver and see how consistently you hit the center and look at your launch and spin numbers to see if they are in a good range and consistent. Weights are really about fitting yourself into a range of weights and then having your whole bag move smoothly through with your driver being the lightest and wedges being the heaviest. I think most pros are in the 60-70g class at this point which wasn't the case a few years ago so lighter isn't bad for many golfers. Heck, Webb Simpson plays a 57g driver shaft I believe right now, at least I know he has recently. Also need to take into consideration the length you play your driver at. If you play it shorter then a heavier shaft can be a good option. However if you play at something over 45 inches, you may be better off with the lighter shaft.
  13. Ferrules warp very easily even when you are careful so it would be good if you have a few extra just in case. Focus the torch low on the hosel and no closer than a half inch from the ferrule when heating, and as said above wrap the ferrule in wet towels before you start. Personally I go fast with the heat on this sort of job, the less time with the ferrule in contact with the hot hosel tip, the better.
  14. Yes, weight is by far the most important spec in shafts. Most people don't realize this and assume it's flex or bend profile but those are minimally impactful for most golfers compared to shaft weight. The other spec to be aware of is balance point on these shafts. I wrote about this in another post but you need to be aware that those KBS tour shafts are more butt weighted than many shafts including the Elevates. So be aware of your SW when building these clubs as the head weights may need to be adjusted moving into them.
  15. You are very likely going to want to use new tip weights. Those KBS tour shafts have more weight in the back end than the DGs. Unless you are planning to play them well over standard length, they will come out light. I reshafted my MP18 MMCs from Nippon Modus3 120s to KBS Tour 120s and had to add between 6 and 10g to all the heads and this was at 1/2inch over standard length.
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