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Adam C

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Everything posted by Adam C

  1. I wouldn't even worry about torque numbers as a comparison. If you look at torque measurement on current graphite shafts versus 5 or 10 years ago, they are all much higher. I don't know that they ever made much difference other than making a shaft feel sharp and rigid but with current manufacturing and materials, those numbers don't need to be in the sub 3s pretty much ever. I always tell people to pick the shafts based first on weight (by far most important), 2nd balance, 3rd is a tie between radial consistency (this is how I measure the quality of a shaft, difference of hard to soft side stiffness), and bend profile, then color, price, and torque bringing up the rear.
  2. Just keep it simple. If you like the white board feel, go with another white board shaft. If you are looking for something that is carried stock by the OEM, just find something in the low 60s gram weight, non-counterbalanced, and with a low launching profile (ie a stiffer mid section). Disregard torque, it is of little to no value worrying about that number. If you are concerned about how the flex will feel I would again stay in the Diamana family and just go back a couple model years to find the price point you want.
  3. Realize you might not know what white board refers to so. You can get a Diamana D plus on Golfworks brand new for $129. Of course you can try Ebay but need to be a bit more cautious about where you buy it.
  4. Golf shafts are golf shafts. They have no mystical qualities that cause the ball to do anything other than what your swing provides. Golf shaft specs can influence your sequencing and timing which can effect your speed and contact. And to a limited extent they can influence your launch height/spin and ability to close the face. Because of this, you can find any number of shafts that will perform exactly the same as any other shaft. Simplest start would be to look at slightly older Diamana White board shafts. Most important is match up the weight. You can get those shafts for around $100 and get the same results with them.
  5. Reshaft will cost around $20. Are you worried about the club being too heavy or too light? The shaft change will only be about 8-10 grams of weight and I believe the NV is pretty tip heavy so I would guess you would end up around D2-D3 when you're done.
  6. Guessing you took time during your lunch break at Club Champion to write this post. I think we have to use a different description than "the few extra dollars" if we are talking about an $800 driver for example. If people want to go to Club Champion to get fit, try out different heads, and find the shaft characteristics that work well for their game, I am completely in favor of that. But don't try and push the idea that Club Champion is more knowledgeable or capable than hundreds of club builders out there. Go get fit, then walk out the door. Things turn shady real quick in my opinion once money comes into the equation there.
  7. Feel free to send me what they spec out for you. I have never personally done a CC fitting as I have some issues with their entire fitting belief, however I have seen enough fitting results and heard feedback to have a good understanding of how they work. Specifically on the upselling of shafts. Seems like a whole lot of people end up "needing" premium shafts that aren't even offered by the OEMs. Interested to see what they come up with for you.
  8. No they can't. Club fitters may also be club builders, but that is a pretty big assumption. There are far more fitters out there than actual club builders who know what they are doing. Also don't assume that a club fitter knows how to properly measure a club's lie/loft, etc. From my understanding, CC does not even build clubs in individual store locations. They build them all in Chicago and then ship them out from there.
  9. Not sure how many fitters are going to be stocking 2017 P790s or AP3s at this point.
  10. If you feel like the wedge is noticably heavy and you have issues swinging through with it then yes. If you never thought about it until reading this post, I probably wouldn't worry about it as much. If you do want to change like I said above, I might go with some weight in-between your irons and wedge.
  11. You should probably just try it and see if the weights are too far off. That's a pretty huge weight jump, 65 to 128g, not to mention graphite to steel. If the jump is too big I might consider going with something in-between say 80-90 gram recoil. 65g wedge shaft would be pretty light.
  12. From how I understand it, they could possibly be from 2 different manufacturers during the same driver model based on supply needs from Ping. If you like the shafts I would worry more about the specs (weight, balance point, bend profile, etc) as both Aldila and UST, not to mention Fuji, Mitsu, Graphite Design, PX all make really good stuff at this point. If you know the weight first, balance second, and basic bend profile third, you can easily find something from any of those brands that will work well for you. But I will keep an eye out if Ping ever divulges any info on their suppliers.
  13. They are Ping designs, but manufactured by someone else, previously Aldila and some UST. Assuming that is still the case but can't say for sure.
  14. Just as a side note since it does not sound like the OP was considering this option, but using a heavier grip to "lower" the swing weight is not a good idea and doesn't really do anything to make the club more playable. You are only tricking the swing weight scale because of the fulcrum location. All you have really done is increase the static weight of the total club which is going in the opposite direction of the goal of a lighter club.
  15. I have not personally used those Accra iron shafts before but I would say that you have in fact already bought them, then I would give them some time before you make any decisions about alterations. At least 5-10 range sessions and a few rounds with them. If you haven't bought them, I would say that 123g graphite shafts are really heavy and probably not best suited for someone with your speed. They may help with the joints but they aren't going to offer anything to help with speed or distance. I would be looking in the sub 90g range. If you do own them, you would need to change the shafts more than just change swing weights from removing possible tip weights.
  16. In my opinion, the shafts are getting more credit than they deserve recently. Shaft OEMs put out new designs every season now just like the club OEMs. The shaft is only capable of doing a couple things, that being adding loft and closing the face, and both of these are pretty minimal and very dependent on the golfers swing. If you find a shaft that you like, don't assume you need to upgrade to a newer version. If it ain't broke.
  17. That yellow is a whole different ball of wax with the counter balancing. Going to feel very different. Sounds like you gravitate towards the classic blue board soft mid profile. You won't hear me bad mouth any Mitsu shaft, but you could also try a Graphite Design AD IZ, or one of the Fuji Atmos Blue or Speeder Evo shafts. Again though, all these shafts are going to be pretty similar. You may see slight differences during a fitting, hitting them back to back, but that will often level out over time as your swing adjusts to the shaft. I would really focus on trying a few different weights. If you are in 60g now, try a 67g and maybe a 75g and see what happens. The weight is always going to have a larger impact than the small differences in bend profile, especially if you are looking within a certain profile type.
  18. They are very similar profile wise, if you can hit one, you can hit the other. Most important thing is to get the weight correct. All that other stuff is of secondary importance. Two points though, the shaft isn't going to keep the ball from going left, but the feel of a certain shaft may influence your swing such that it causes you to release the head early or change your path. Unfortunately that is not going to be apparent from looking at specs or asking other people their experience. You need to hit it and see. Second, be aware that the entire idea of mid launch low spin, is little more that marketing hype. Launch and spin are directly related. If you have a higher launching shaft, you will likewise have more spin, and vise versa.
  19. Again, that line angle is not 1 to 1. It's really almost 10 degrees per degree of change in lie, so even if you can't quite get the line perfect, the result will be more than adequate for 99% of golfers. I have faith that most golfers can do this lie check on their own. Honestly, everyone should do this at least once a year to make sure everything is close to where it should be. If it looks a little off, then you can go to a reputable club builder, fitter or teaching pro and have them double check.
  20. If a person isn't able to get a line pointing in a relatively straight up and down position, I don't know how they are going to be able to play this game. Alignment, be it with a driver, iron, or putter requires a certain amount of not only hand eye coordination but also geometric visualization. If you can read the break on a putt, you can get a line facing perpendicular to the ground and check your lie angle.
  21. I promise it's not difficult. I use it all the time. If you ever use a line on the ball to line up putts, it's no different. If you are really worried you can use a ball sleeve or golf glove package to check your right angles. You don't need a professional fitter or expensive equipment, you can do it yourself with very good accuracy.
  22. Actually not hard at all. The measurements are not 1 to 1 when you look at the face mark. Don't ask me why as I can't give you the exact reason but it actually comes out to closer to 1/4 inch at the top end of the mark where you would measure from. So if the top of the mark is 1/4 to the toe side of the club, that would equal 1 degree flat bending.
  23. Go ahead and check your lie angles yourself and then circle back around to what you are doing in your swing. This will at least give you the confidence that your clubs are correct. Use a sharpie test and check your lie angles. Draw a line on the ball about an inch long with a sharpie or dry erase marker. Set the ball on the ground with the line perpendicular to the ground with it pointing at your club face (ie away from your target). Hit a couple balls this way with each club and take note where the line imprint is pointing on the club's face. Straight up and down means lie is good. If it's at an angle then you need to adjust your lie angle. Remember when you do this make sure you are hitting on flat turf or the results are junk. Also I like to hit off a mat versus turf as the turf can rub the marker line off the face. It's easier said than done but try not to worry about how the club sits at set up, only worry about impact. FYI, the main reason for the change in lie angle during the swing has less to do with the toe droop effect and more to do with your hands raising at impact. The centrifugal force pulls the club head and therefore your hands away from your body changing the necessary lie angle. My guess as to what you are experiencing is you are raising your hands at set up to level the club head lie, but you are also unknowingly standing further away from the ball when you do. Once you get to impact your body moves into it's natural impact position which is now further away from the ball, leading to toe and thin hits.
  24. The steel shafts are simple to pull, can just heat them and pull off the adapters with some pliers. The graphite shafts you would want to use a shaft puller to remove the shaft in a straight line if you were planning to use them again.
  25. Selling fitting iron shafts will be basically useless since they are all 6 iron shafts I am guessing. Unless you have a random person who needs to match up a 6 iron shaft and would then be okay with removing the adapter for reshaft. Lot of work for a $20-$40 shaft. If you have some driver fitting shafts, and remove the fitting adapters, then you can actually get some morey for them.
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