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Adam C

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Everything posted by Adam C

  1. So you can do what you did and add head weight to counter the grip weight. You can find lighter midsize grips, which obviously isn't always a viable option. You can also find shafts with more tip heavy balance points. You could also add a little length to the club to get that weight back. All these options have pros and cons. My personal feeling on SW is that it's mainly about getting a consistent feel through your irons and wedges. I don't care about matching woods, hybrids, putters to an iron SW. Most important for me is a smooth weight progression through the set so each club is getting heavier moving from driver to wedges. The simplest option is start out with just the new grips and no additional weight at the tip. Use whatever iron you want, and hit some balls with impact stickers, foot spray powder, dry erase marker on balls, launch monitor, etc, to look at your impact pattern. Then start adding some lead tape to the back and repeat the process. At some point you should find your consistency is at it's best and adding or taking away weight from that point is detrimental. Then just add the same amount to the rest (remembering head weight influences longer clubs more than shorter so you may want to shave a gram or two off in the longer irons vs. the shorts). Only other thing to look out for if you add weight to the clubs is how you hit them at the end of the round when you are tired compared to the start of the round. Most people can handle an 130g shaft for the first 5-10 swings, but not necessarily by the end of the round.
  2. Are you that low launching with all your clubs? Also if you are only getting 268 yards of carry at that speed, contact must be an issue also. I would guess you are making contact very low on the face. Might want to check that first before trying to find a super high loft driver.
  3. You are overthinking it. You are basically going to have such similar shafts by hard stepping the 6.5 or softing the 7.0 (both in flex and more importantly in weight), that if you can hit one, you can hit the other or vise versa. You will get much more definitive results from bending the lofts to adjust trajectory. You would really need to move into a different weight class before I would say you would see any noticeable difference over the long haul between shafts.
  4. Might be an old deflection board. Hard to say from the angle. If you provide a couple more pics from other angles I might have a better/more definitive answer.
  5. If you have a vent hole and a good fit between the shaft and head, you won't need the clamps. Always take a drill and remove the epoxy from inside the shaft, at least enough to see light through it with the grip off. I always poke a hole in the tape through the grip's vent hole just to ensure I don't have a pressure build up if the grips are left on.
  6. Are you installing new shafts when this happens or using used shafts? If they are used, make sure you are drilling out the old epoxy to have a vent hole. If you do this, you shouldn't ever need to clamp anything, unless you live in an earthquake zone or under train tracks.
  7. I will take a picture. I have modified it slightly in that I put a brushed nickel finish on the steel section of the stroke lab shaft. Every other part of that club is matte finished and that bright chrome was distracting in my opinion. I got it like new from Callaway Pre Owned for like $130. I occasionally forget that no matter how much I might want to, I can't use a mallet style head. Would do $90 shipped to FL.
  8. In many cases there is not a huge difference between a starter set and a higher end set of a certain age. The starter set is a simple forgiving design, using less expensive materials and designs. Quality control will be looser than with high end stuff. Graphite shafts will be light and maybe more prone to breaking. Feel/sound will not really come into the equation with the cheaper sets whereas newer sets will have thought about these sorts of details. The starter set is basically a club design from 20 years ago with lower to mid grade materials. Still very useable but not packed with technology like newer clubs.
  9. If you are looking for a Stroke Lab 7, I have one I would sell you. Literally used one time on course. It's a 34 with the oversize grip.
  10. Golfworks has clear/off white epoxies, though ideally you should not be seeing any epoxy between the hosel and ferrule if the fit is good. Also, you don't need special epoxy removing products. Simple grip solvent very lightly applied to a rag/paper towel can wipe away any residue you may have left on the neck. I always make this the final step in the build process before letting them sit to dry. Wipe the hosel, shaft, and head if it's a wood or hybrid especially. Amazing how many shafts and heads I see where they have dried epoxy on them that could easily have been wiped away if people just took a few extra seconds.
  11. John: Again if we are basing all this on trying to get that height and spin down using equipment, you are better off with the 9. Like I said above, if you need to loft up to 10.5, the result will also give you more draw bias in the set up which will be helpful to anyone who fades the ball. If you start at 10.5 and decide to loft down, you are then setting the club into a more fade bias setup which would probably be an issue.
  12. Green is probably closest to the original fitted shaft.
  13. Don't go with 10.5, stick with 9. Shaft flex and profile will have very little effect on height. Loft is a far greater influence. Remember these clubs are adjustable so you can alway take the 9 and loft it up to 10 etc. This will also cause the club to sit more closed which will help you. Yes, you can do the same with a 10.5 and loft down but you then open the face more thereby promoting a slice.
  14. That seems like a good option. I personally like the Rogue shaft line but the Project X shafts are also good. As far as weight goes I would drop 5-10 grams off what your 3 wood is to decide on the weight.
  15. The subzero line is better for higher speed swings so you would need to evaluate that for yourself. It's also less forgiving on toe and heel strikes because the cg is closer to the face so you get more twisting. It's always a give and take with this game. My default stance is always go with the more forgiving option. Also the standard version is slightly draw biased, the sub zero is neutral to fade if anything.
  16. John, stiffer shaft will usually cut down on spin and launch height a little but flex really comes down more to feel. I would just try and match up flex with the rest of your bag for that part. The draw bias just has more weight moved towards the heel promoting more draw gear effect. Also usually has a sole design that forces the club to sit closed when you just sit it on the ground. If you fight a slice and you don't mind that closed address position, the draw won't hurt you. Otherwise stick to the regular version. Also if you're buying from the Callaway Pre Owned site, I have a free shipping code if you want it. Had a hybrid I was considering and had in my cart overnight and they sent me the shipping code. Club went out of stock while I was debating so could not use.
  17. Any clamp will work. The $3 rubber one is fine, just slower than a specific shaft clamp. In either case, the important thing is to make sure you don't over tighten the clamp and crack the shaft which is by far the bigger issue than scratching the shaft with a hook blade. The hook blade won't cut into the shaft unless you really try to do it. That's the whole point of a hooked blade. A light scratch won't do anything to the shaft integrity. That being said, I prefer not to scratch the graphite so I just angle the blade at 45 degrees when I cut and that takes care of it. If you are really paranoid about scratches you can use scissors to cut off the old grips also.
  18. Oops. Should have thought of that. Good catch. Just be aware any adapter you buy off eBay, Amazon etc that's not OEM made can be questionable on quality both in terms of durability and tolerances for fit.
  19. If you have any Burner driver model from the last 20 years it is going to be .350 tip which means you are out of luck on using in an M3. If you have a TP model then the shaft would be .335 but the shaft you described is not one of those from my memory. Are you sure it's the shaft specifically that you prefer in the older club? Might want to look at the length, club weight, or swing weight and see if you can replicate the old club feel in the new one. Could also be the head on the M3 you don't get along with.
  20. Back, heel, toe, doesn't really matter as this amount of tape won't change ball flight based on location of it. Just trying to see if a heavier head changes anything in your results.
  21. I was thinking it could be a good option. But since that is the starting shaft that had bad results, scrap that idea. The blue is counterbalanced though, so that might be an issue. If you want to do a cheap experiment, get some lead tape and put 2-3 inches of it somewhere on the back of the head and see if that does anything to your ball flight.
  22. Hmmm. That was one of the shafts I was thinking if it is the blue version. What's in your 3 wood and do you like it.
  23. We are talking technical measurements based on what a shaft can physically do versus what a loft change can do. Yes, there are cases where a shaft influences the golfer timing and swing sequence to impact ball flight to a greater degree, but this would be difficult to measure and has too many variables that go along with it including face impact location and short term vs. long term effect (ie how shaft X impacts your swing when following shaft W versus shaft Y and how that compares to how shaft X impacts your swing when placed in the general rotation of your specific golf bag versus during a fitting).
  24. Loft will always play a much larger role in spin and launch angle than any shaft will so it may make sense to get a lower lofted head to start with. I might look at a 9 degree Callaway Rogue Driver or similar. It's a couple models old at this point but you can still find them and since you already have a Callaway wouldn't be a huge change in feel. Callaway also has a great pre-owned site where you can get some really good deals on used and like new equipment. I just have serious doubts that the simple shaft change will really do much for your issue over the long haul so a head change makes more sense to me.
  25. Go back and look at Golf Digests Hot List from 5-7 years ago online and find the game improvement category. The Hot List is a bit of a joke I realize but you will see the offerings from all the big companies for that year. Then just go on Ebay and see what you can find putting in whichever club looks good. Ping, Callaway, Taylormade, Cobra, Cleveland, all good options.
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