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Adam C

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Everything posted by Adam C

  1. I am not talking about curve. I am talking about just hitting the ball in the center of the face which is a problem for higher handicappers, which is what the OP is. I realize that I am making assumptions about his particular wedge game but having worked in the business for years I always lean to the more forgiving side of the coin. Look, I'm not talking about Alien wedges or some crazy super wide soles here. OP listed what he was looking at. Vokey, Callaway, Cleveland CG4, all very traditional wedge designs. I am saying with those wedges, a lot of sole grinding, heel and toe relief etc, is not likely to help a higher handicapper versus the basic more full sole design. Again talking high handicappers here, not pros and 3.6s.
  2. The grind will make a club less forgiving from a pure cg/moi standpoint. You are removing material (aka weight) from around the perimeter, low on the club or from the back of the sole. From that you are essentially shrinking the sweet spot and raising the cg and moving it forward. None of these things make a club easier to hit. That being said, better golfers can handle those changes and benefit from, as you mentioned, the versatility to manipulate the face or hit from uneven lies. However, for golfers who struggle with solid contact around the green, I think the larger sole with it's forgiving nature, outweighs the lack of versatility from those features.
  3. If you have 22 degrees of bounce then yes, the grind can play a major role. However, as most wedges max out at 16 degrees, and that's on the mid lofts, it's more fine tuning. And you have to remember that any time you grind down a wedge, you are removing material from the sole and making it less forgiving. This can be fine and even beneficial for some golfers, but it can be a total disaster for others. If you have issues with consistency in your chipping and sand game, I say more bounce and wide sole for most amateurs.
  4. Bounce is something you have to figure out based on how you swing the club, what type of courses you play, and what kinds of shots you plan on hitting. High bounce- better for steeper swings aka big deep divots. More bounce is also helpful out of most sand and thicker rough. Low bounce- better for shallow swings aka little thin divots. Can be better off tight lies and hard pan. Grind is less of an issue unless you plan on opening or manipulating the face for shots around the green. Basically just removing material from the sole to allow for better turf interaction. Good news for loft is you can always adjust the loft after the fact to fill your gaps accordingly. At least with the brands you mentioned, (although the Cleveland stuff can be a bit stubborn to move). Also not a bad idea to check your lie angle with them and make sure that is where it should be.
  5. Take some masking tape, foot spray, impact stickers, dry erase marker, etc, and see where on the face you are making contact with these irons. That's a starting point. How far did you hit your previous sticks?
  6. If you spent around $50 for the set I think you did okay more or less.
  7. If your lie is 4 degrees off with 4 degrees of loft, you would be approx 1.8 inches offline at 30 ft.
  8. There are plenty of really good putters who don't have the sole flat or parallel to the ground. Best example I can give is Steve Stricker. He is toe down like you. That being said most golfers do prefer the look of a level lie putter. It is a repair most shops should be able to do. But if you putt well with it, I don't know that I would change it.
  9. Always think about the source of what you are watching. These guys entire business model rely on the idea that OEM mass produced clubs are bad. I will just tell you from watching that video of him measuring the 7 iron, there are some big issues and it's not with the 7 iron. First off anyone who just throws a club in a gauge willy nilly and takes a measurement doesn't know what they are doing or is trying to do something shady. I spend at least 30 seconds to a minute per club making sure it's centered and level in the machine. You can't just throw it in there and expect it to sit correctly. Second, although the view of the clamp is not great, and that very well may be on purpose, that 7 iron looks definitively toe down, so I'm not surprised that the lie read comes out at some crazy upright number. This video is shady. If you want to see a couple measurement videos, here are two I've done so far looking at exactly this in relation to drivers. That being how close are they to spec. I will be honest, I went into it assuming that they would be pretty far off.
  10. It's a simple fix if you have a reasonably steady hand and some patience. I repaint my Scottys as I don't like the stock colors they use. Just need some acetone or paint stripper of some kind to remove the old stuff, then some acrylic paint. You can use brushes but I find the needle tipped paint fill bottles work better and cleaner. Once it's dry you can just wipe over the surface with a little more acetone on a clean cloth to remove any drips or runs.
  11. If it's just the ferrule and you can't move it back, a golf shop should be able to fix for about $5. If the head is loose and working itself off the shaft, that is again a very simple repair, not more than $15.
  12. It's hard to tell from the pictures but it definitely looks beat up and it's what I would refer to as one of the weird models (no offense) that drop in price far more than the traditional Scotty designs. So I don't know that it's a fake as much as appropriately priced for what it is.
  13. Like you said, the legs or specifically the knees are really dancing. Would probably like to see the lower body a little more stable through the swing. Imagine straddling a barrel during your swing up to impact. Focus on getting those knees turned out just a bit to stabilize the base and keep from losing that front knee at the top of the back swing. Getting that base stable is a must before you can put the club consistently on the back of the ball.
  14. He's got what they used to market as the stack and tilt movement where he stays directly over the ball without much weight shift through the swing. That can work and be very consistent, however he needs to either shift his weight back during the backswing or keep it more on his front side over the whole swing. Right now he moves it to his front side on his back swing which will lose power and consistency. Only other glaring issue is that back leg locking out in the back swing. Really want to keep your knees consistently flexed just a little throughout the entire swing.
  15. They are probably Golf Pride would be my guess. You can also make your own rib with any grip. They sell ribs you can install when putting on new grips.
  16. Exactly. This is club fitting shenanigans more often than it should be. Take a bunch of measurements with your current clubs to show how wrong they are either for you or against spec, and then swoop in to the rescue with all the fixes you can make until you're buying a new set or spending $100 per iron to get them "fixed".
  17. While there may be some clubs that fall well outside of the spec tolerances I would argue most modern clubs are pretty close. Beware of club makers and fitters who will take your current clubs and start "measuring" them to show how far off they are. I can take an iron without you knowing it and make it come out vastly different depending on how I choose to measure and place in the machine. This can be done on purpose or just from laziness/ lack of experience. Same with woods. Also there are a couple things I noticed from that video that are just wrong. I didn't watch the whole video, just skipped around and saw these pieces. First you can most definitely change the loft of clubs over time in the strong direction from repeated strikes. Clubs don't just get weaker. That being said most clubs will not move much over time. Second, spray on the face is not how to tell lie angle. Unreliable at best, useless at worst. Need to do a vertical line check which anyone can do on the range by themselves, or go and hit off a Trackman or GC Quad etc that measures face angles and path.
  18. What's going on with the sight line on the back? Looks drawn on by a 4 year old.
  19. Well done on the casting part. Don't see any cast and even better, you have some forward shaft lean at impact. It's definitely still very flat in the plane, but I would just keep working on being consistent with the shaft lean until you're not really even thinking about it, then double back and work on getting more upright.
  20. For tee height you can go two different ways. If you can do it visually, they can be low and just see the club stay outside them. If you do better with direct feedback, then put them at an inch so you can actually make contact with them.
  21. You've got quite a few really good looking elements in your swing. I would say the biggest issue for you related to consistency is posture. Simplest way to see it is on your face on video, look at how your head moves. It's more than just your head but that's the easiest thing to track. It has some movement, which a little of is not a huge issue, however you can see it moving up into and through impact and that rarely has good results. From there it continues up as your whole body looses its posture and you end up basically in a standing position. Fix or drill: If you have a stool this works great but you could also just use the back of a chair. You want the stool at a height where you can just rest your butt on the edge of it with good setup posture. Then you make some practice swings and try and keep contact with the stool. This does two things. First keeps your legs from bending more or straightening in order to keep the same contact point on the stool. Second, the slight sitting posture you need to just rest against the stool is the posture you want to keep throughout the swing especially through contact and into the finish. You can also do this drill against a wall without a club. Put your butt against the wall with good setup posture, and make half swings either mimicking holding a club or just independently hanging your arms down. Work on keeping contact with the wall through the entire movement. The contact point can move from middle to right cheek then to left. That is fine. Again most important is keeping consistent contact through the swing, aka not standing up at impact. I fight this in my swing especially with longer clubs and harder swings, so I alway have the thought "posture through impact" as my key swing thought.
  22. As far as the shallow angle, I would use something simple like 2 tees. Steepening a shallow swing can be tricky b/c it can turn into over the top real quick. I would put one tee in the ground about 4 inches behind the ball and about 2 inches inside (that being towards you. I would mirror the other tee on the other side of the ball 4 inches in front and 2 inches inside. Then really work on both staying clear of the one tee on the back swing (hopefully get it a bit more outside and upright), and clear both tees on the downswing again trying to be more upright but not coming over the top and hitting the second tee in front. Start with pitching swings until you're consistent, then half, then 3/4 etc. The casting is another difficult fix. Not sure what iacas thinks of this idea but I might suggest cheating a little and just strengthening the left hand grip to a solid 2 knuckle view. It makes it harder to cast with a stronger grip. It's not the ideal solution but I think you have to tackle these issues separately b/c they aren't simple fixes. So work on the swing plane first, with a short term fix on the casting, then circle back to the casting. Heck the stronger grip could be a permanent fix in some cases but some golfers just don't like the feel.
  23. Do you hit a lot of shots off the heel or sh--ks especially when you are first getting loose?
  24. I can see from your swings why you have the two issues you described. First, your plane is very flat coming into the ball. On flat fairways you will be fine but on hills or out of rough, this can cause a lot of issues coming into the ball. The fat issue is from the casting motion you have in your down swing where the clubhead has passed your hands before impact. This is a recipe for fat and or thin shots. It's very difficult to time that up and make center face impact.
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