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Adam C

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Everything posted by Adam C

  1. Not sure of your skill level but a 60 is difficult to hit well because of all that loft. It requires a longer swing which equals more chance of mistakes. I don't think the grind is an issue as much with the current LW assuming you hit the SW flush. Get the right bounce for your swing and playing conditions and go from there. Steep attack or more lush turf benefits from higher bounce. Shallow attack or tighter lies benefit from lower bounce. The grind is more important if you are adjusting the face angle (ie open face flop shots etc.) However you do lose a bit of forgiveness. Most average golfers will be best suited with the standard grind. Remember you can always grind it down after the fact but you can't put material back on.
  2. Tungsten powder is a good idea in theory, but never works out well in practice. Every time I used it, which has only been on a few occasions, I go back shortly thereafter and drill it back out. Glad you got it worked out.
  3. It sounds like epoxy that has extended up although 3.5 inches is a long way for the epoxy to squeeze up into the shaft. Unlikely a tip weight because you would be able to see it when you were assembling. My guess based on what you described is possibly tungsten powder that was mixed with epoxy and installed down the shaft. This would make the shaft feel stiffer and deaden the feel as well. Although if this is the case you should eventually be able to drill the powder out. Could also have been a tipped shaft to begin with which is why is plays stiff. Problems with buying used shafts, never know who or how they were installed and treated.
  4. Dynamic Gold shafts have a 2 gram tolerance. The tour issues have a .5 gram tolerance. It's the same shafts from the same manufacturing process, just picking the more consistent weighted ones and grouping them into an 8 shaft set. That is why there is no S200, X200 etc offered in the tour issue.
  5. RocketBladez were released in 2013. The 2.0 I think came out in 2017 or 18. Basically just a rerelease, probably with overrun head stock and sold at a lower $400 compared to all the M series current model stuff. Companies will often do this with older equipment, new paint job, slightly different shaft and grip, and sell it as their base level.
  6. You will definitely hit it better. No doubt. Anyone who tells you differently is just wrong. It is simple physics and basic golf 101. Try writing your name with a pencil held at the tip, then try again holding it back in the middle. See which gives you the better result. Same deal with your driver. Don't have any trepidation, you are on the right track.
  7. Aldila has updated the NV in a couple versions recently utilizing some of the new materials that are available. If you like the old green NV I would look at the 2KVX NV. I have seen some measurements and the quality of these shafts looks outstanding especially for a shaft under $150.
  8. I realize that I can't use a blanket statement on the accuracy of a 3 wood vs a driver for all amateurs. However for what we are referring to in this thread I think it holds water. First, we are talking about off the tee so both clubs are teed up. Second, the original post already said he hits the 3 better/more consistently. Third, if you just look at the comparison for 3 vs driver in the terms of validity from physics, a 3 wood will always be more accurate for the reasons already discussed. A longer driver shaft is harder to control. Longer and lighter driver = more head spead = less time to get the head in the correct launch position. The other element is loft. Drivers have little and 3 woods have more. More loft = more backspin. More backspin = less side spin = less slice or hook. This is not something that can be debated, these are just facts. In my opinion the reason why some amateurs hit the driver better has nothing to do with it being (easier to hit) and everything to do with practice. Go to any course or driving range and count the number of people practicing with a 3 wood. Especially with higher handicappers. Everyone is hitting the driver. And this carries over to the course. The reason they may not hit the 3 better is because they rarely ever use or practice with it. Everyone wants to hit it as far as possible so the driver gets the majority of any practice time. Spend an equal time practicing with both and see how much difference there really is. 3 wood will be straighter and probably not much shorter especially when averaged out over multiple hits.
  9. Don't take length off the tip of a shaft unless you are trying to stiffen the shaft or change the launch conditions. Butt trimming will have a very small impact on stiffness and should be used to adjust length.
  10. Not sure where you are getting this info from but I strongly disagree and would question the validity of the source. Either way this thread started with a post that included the statement that he hits his 3 wood well and his driver less so. Hence my statements on length and loft.
  11. Okay, I don't think we should ever be using LD competitors as a comparison unless we are specifically talking LD. These men and women are incredibly strong and able to to square up the face even when they swing at high speed. They are also only trying to get one perfect ball in an enormous grid with no penalty for all the errant misses. Longer clubs require more timing to get the face squared up at the right point during the downswing and this usually means a more deliberate motion. I think anyone who plays golf can agree with that statement. The point I was really trying to make is that these modern drivers keep getting longer because it's one of the only ways manufacturers can validate claims about improved distance. The longer the club gets, the harder it is to hit well. This is one of two reasons why you hit your 3 wood better than your driver, or your 8 iron better than your 4 iron. The other of course is loft. So the more you can get your driver to spec out like a 3 wood, the more consistency you will see.
  12. I have to say that those two set ups are actually very similar and I don't think it's surprising at all that you could get these two different recommendations. Fact is that these two set ups are trying to do similar things. The Rogue launches slightly lower than the X, but the stock shaft is designed to launch higher with more spin. The Rogue X launches higher on its own but the upgrade UST shaft provides a lower mid launch comparatively. So in the end the result is going to be very similar in ball flight. As for the stiffness, it could be that you were swinging faster on one day or it could be that the weighting on the X was allowing you to swing faster and play the stiffer shaft. People are constantly over worried about two things with equipment I have noticed; shaft flex and finding the perfect club. Shaft flex in most cases has very little impact going from say R to S. And the fact is shafts are not necessarily consistent one shaft to the next. As far as the right clubs go, everyone is looking for the perfect combination to capture lightning in a bottle but it doesn't exist. Your swing is different day to day, and from the 1st hole to the 18th. So how do you fit for that? You can only get so close. All that being said, this would be my recommendation for what to do. I would do a mixed set between the two with Rogue X in your 4,5,6 or whatever your longer irons might be, and Rogue in the short irons. This way you get the max forgiveness in the longer clubs and a little more consistency in the shorter ones. As far as the shaft goes, I can't speak for the consistency of the stock Aldila Synergy shaft I am assuming you are referencing, but the UST Recoil I would bet will be more consistent in radial quality (roundness) and from shaft to shaft in the set. Go with R flex because that's probably where your swing will be later in the round. Even most PGA guys are now mixing sets to take advantage of the technology in each club. Very often will have 3 different sets making up a 3-PW. Hope this helps. Good Luck!
  13. I vote for cutting it down as much as you want. That Ping driver is probably 45.75 inches. That is way more length than anyone needs unless you're a giant. Longer shafts require more time to get the club squared up so it would really require you to slow down your swing. This is of course counter to what most golfers do which is swing harder with the driver. Look, if you hit the 3 wood straighter and more consistently then go ahead and make your driver more like your 3 wood. Assuming your driver is adjustable crank up the loft, shorten the shaft and play it more like a 3 wood. Just remember you are going to loose some head weight cutting it down so you may want to put a two inch piece of lead tape on the lower, back, inside portion of the club to rebalance it if it feels light.
  14. They look pretty authentic to me from the pictures. If you can't see any difference to other 716 set in person I think you are good. Little details like the hosel id or the shrink wrap over the grips looks like what Titleist new clubs look like. Things like the shrink wrap with the red pull strip is the kind of detail that I don't believe a forgery club would bother spending time and money on. Other detail you could look at is the shaft band on your set vs. the known legit set. Graphics details on things like that will often give away a fake. Can't be totally certain but they look legit to me.
  15. Just buy one shaft and install in one of your favorite clubs, say 7 iron and take it out to the course. Trying different shafts in different heads won't give you the best info on what the new shaft is doing. Although it may make you decide to just buy new irons all together.
  16. Totally agree with the inside vs outside swing. I know from personal experience working with indoor launch bays, people swing differently. Some swing slower, or shorter, for me I found myself hanging back on everything and almost reverse weight shifting. Only figured that out after taking some video outside at the range (after having hit a lot of balls indoors) and seeing how much weight was on my back leg after impact. This is why I never liked teaching systems like GolfTec because you are always inside hitting into a screen. Same concern with fittings done indoors. Don't get me wrong, I have done numerous fittings indoors and it's okay for your basic fitting, and necessary when you can't be on an actual range, but doing elaborate and expensive fittings indoors is not something I would ever get behind unless accompanied by some range time.
  17. This is a little tricky to say which is right and why they are different. Could both be wrong or could both be right. First I will say remember that the clubs you were fitting are different and have different specs. Stock length on the 5s are longer than the 2s. Swing weights are also slightly different and static weights are different. 100g DG shaft vs a 112g PX (speaking rough cut weights) also could make differences with lie angle. All this is to say that I think you need to fit each club (ie set) on it's own after picking the shaft and head you want. Because those two things will impact the lie fitting. As a club maker I have also come to the conclusion after years that iron length need be far less rigid in it's measurements. If you feel more comfortable with longer clubs so that you are less hunched over in the short irons, then go with that. A half inch longer iron is not going to make much difference in your accuracy game and if it feels more comfortable then go with it. Just make sure you factor in the weight changes in a longer club because that is way more important than length. After all that lock down the lie angles.
  18. Wanted to include a chart concerning what I was saying about the PX vs DG. I was thinking the PX was noticeably stiffer, but in fact it is only slightly stiffer in the very tip. It is really the mid section where it shows significant stiffness over the DG. With the softer butt, that all equals lower launch. See EI chart. The Flighted PX does have the higher launch in the longer shafts. The tip on the modus is much softer in the 130 and should launch much higher than either PX or DG everything else being equal.
  19. You are not kidding. Those shafts are all over the map. I think that your early release is basically negating much of the flex character of the shaft. The earlier the release, the less the shaft bend profile will have any influence on the results. I think the software isn't able to make any real recommendations because of that. As far as the starting point goes, the PX 6.0 is actually lower launching compared to Dynamic Gold. Stiffer tip and softer butt. The Modus 130 is a higher launch compared to the PX but also compared to the Modus 120. But again if like you said, your release is early then these factors will be muted. I would probably focus more on the weight aspect and see what feels best.
  20. I have never played one on the course but having worked in the business remember back to when we sold them and they are beautiful looking putters. The problem with them as you stated is they are very light and as a result are not great playing on greens that are less then fast. Personally I might add a little lead tape to the bottom or back to get a couple more SW points. Could also add a plug weight to keep the look clean, although depending what model it is, that may require some weight grinding.
  21. As far as flex goes with trimming, tip trimming will have a greater influence on the flex then butt trimming. Yes in theory simply making the club shorter from the butt will increase the frequency, however it is less then you might think because you are cutting from the stiffer side of the shaft. Remember, the butt end is always stiffer than the tip and continues to increase in stiffness all the way to the butt end. There are a few exceptions with certain shafts where the very end may soften again just as there are cases where the tip end softens before beginning to stiffen again in the tip mid section. This is a lot more detail then you probably need but the point is don't worry about the butt trimming so much with stiffness. If you want it stiffer, tip trim more. Just make sure you know your parallel tip length so you don't cut beyond the taper start. But I also agree flex is less important than weight. Best rule I can give you is go as light as you can without losing control/consistency. You want him swinging the club, not the other way around.
  22. 4 grams in the grip equals 1 swing weight point change. 2 grams in the head equals 1 swing weight point change in the opposite direction. Are you sure about that grip weight though. Usually cutting a half inch will lose 3 SW points so assuming your driver started at 45 at the longest, you should have lost 4.5 SW points with that grip weight.
  23. 2 inches on the 3 wood is probably more than you want. Would think 1 inch at most. Do not operate heavy machinery or shaft cutting tools while under the influence.
  24. Titleist will be able to tell you what the clubs are. Those numbers are really more reference numbers for them to know the specs of the clubs. Depending what adjustments were done to the individual clubs, you can have numerous numbers in one set. Tour van clubs may not have any numbers on them. It could also be a pieced together set or set where certain clubs were replaced for whatever reason. As long as the specs match, doesn't really matter.
  25. I would do a wrist to floor measurement. Still in my opinion the best place to start with club length. Measure from the break in your wrist to the floor while just in regular standing posture, not golf stance. Have someone else measure because the numbers can get thrown off when you do it yourself. 34 to 36 is considered standard. 33 or less and I would cut down a half inch (or 37.5 inch 5 iron). I know some people will tell you to cut it at quarter inch intervals at some points but I really don't think it is worth the time and effort for 1/4 inch. Basically you want to make sure that you are comfortable with your set up posture especially with your short irons. Grab your PW and choke down 1/2 inch and hit some balls. If it feels comfortable then the longer clubs won't be an issue.
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