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Adam C

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Everything posted by Adam C

  1. They will, most likely will charge you $30-$40 for the adapter which is expensive but pretty much all the adapters are needlessly expensive no matter where you buy them. I would stay away from the generic adapters you might see on eBay or Amazon. Hear a lot of issues with them.
  2. Really depends on who is selling it. OEMs don't usually like to sell the heads by themselves, so I can't say how it will come. If you bought it from Ping they would be selling the whole club (head, adapter, and shaft). At best you might be able to get it without the grip on. Again you have to be careful who you buy from, but you can find every combination on eBay, heads with adapter included or not, shafts with adapters, pre cut and gripped, or just raw shafts. Did I answer your question?
  3. Yes, bend profile is looking at the same thing as what used to be called kick point. They don't like to use that term anymore but it's the same. And again I wouldn't get too fixated on it. At best it can make small differences in your ball launch and in many cases it won't make any. Most important is weight bar none in my opinion. Second is shaft consistency, and this leads into your second question about PUREing. This I have to say is where some of these companies take any credibility they might have and chuck it out the window. Anyone who suggests that your golf shafts need to be PUREd is just taking your money. I can get into a lot of detail about why PUREing or FLOing or spining is useless but for simplicity lets just say it's a scam. My rule and I think the rule of any good, honest club builder is that if you have a shaft that needs PUREing, it should be in your garden, staking tomato plants, not in your golf club. Now I know that a lot of these companies up sell it and while I think it's disgusting, I don't think you should discount them all together. They can provide good information and help narrow down your search. Just remember, there is no perfect club or combination. It's just not like that. And also if they mention PUREing, just say no thanks.
  4. When it comes to eBay it's the wild west. You just have to read the description really closely and hope that you're not buying a fake. Usually sellers will make it pretty obvious whether the hosel adapter is included and of course you can alway send them a question about it.
  5. Remember, none of these fitting/building businesses force you to buy anything. You can take the specs and recommendations and shop them around. Don't worry about the shafts as far as the exotics go. Most important aspect of the shaft is weight, second is consistency, third is balance point, and then bend profile. Weight is easy to match up with other products. Consistency is rarely an issue these days and a complete non issue if you are going with steel shafts. Again if you're going with steel then balance is not something to worry about. That just leaves bend profile and again that is simple to match to other products that don't break the bank.
  6. Someone might have to help on this. From what I understand the S400 was the tour issue initial offering for this shaft. Also had an X100 flex. Then later came the standard R300, S300, and X100. Now I have no idea what or if there is any difference between these two X100 versions. If it's like the 130g version then maybe the S400 just has the same tighter tolerances as the Tour Issue DG130. Again doing some guessing here. According to TT, if you played the 130 S400, the 120 S400 is comparable.
  7. Hard for me to say. As you said, your driver actually ended up going further after cut down. Lucky for you, the answer is super simple to figure out. Just take your irons out and grip down a 1/2 inch and hit some balls. You could also try a full inch and see if there's any difference. Besides the grip feeling slightly smaller, everything else will perform and feel about the same whether you grip down or cut down the shafts. At that point, you can decide if you see enough of a difference to warrant cutting them or just keep gripping down.
  8. Those clubs really weren't meant for you. If you can hit a 300 yard drive then you shouldn't be in the Rogue X.
  9. Sounds like you need a lower loft for your swing. 8.5 or 9 degree. Tech differences may also give you some more forgiveness and distance but I think the loft would make a big difference.
  10. I mean $50 would be a pretty cheap experiment to see if you like them. Although 20 year old clubs can quickly become $250 clubs if you need to start replacing shafts and grips etc. I guess if you really don't like the Fusions then maybe, but otherwise might stick with what works. If you do buy them, probably try and negotiate down to $30, that seems like a better price in my opinion.
  11. Raw shafts are 46 inches 99% of the time. A few come raw 47 inch. If you buy a fairway wood shaft they are usually around 43 inches raw. In any case, you have to cut them down unless you are looking to play a 47 1/2 inch driver.
  12. Biggest difference I see with these shafts is the balance point, assuming the weights are the same you are looking at. The Black will hit it lower in theory than the Yellow or Smoke depending on the golfer. The swing weights will change depending on what shaft you use unless TM re weights the head after assembly. The Black is the heaviest in the tip section, the Yellow the heaviest in the butt section, and the smoke somewhere in the middle. Not sure how that compares to the Ping shaft however.
  13. You can buy some shafts that are pre cut, adaptered, and gripped different places including eBay. I would be very careful though with anything like that from eBay. However that does not change the issue of rebalancing the club, you will still have to add weight to the head if you are trying to get back to a certain swing weight. The simplest way would still be to just cut down your current shaft and regrip, then lead tape it to get it back to weight. If you are wanting a new shaft then I would either buy it raw and have someone do the reshaft, or some retailers will do the prep work and install the adapter, cut to length and grip for you. Again eBay is more of a gamble unless you know your seller.
  14. That is my current driver. I like the blue head although I know it's not everyones cup of tea. Paired with a Aldila Tour Blue 75, cut down a bit and hotmelted back to weight. Mizuno has had plenty of great drivers that never got the respect they deserved. The new 190 is probably the first that really gets the recognition in a long time.
  15. Hi Everyone: I just uploaded a new Spec Review for the Callaway Epic Flash driver. Please let me know what you think.
  16. It could effect the trajectory, whereby the stiffer shaft lowers the launch a bit, and on paper that should happen, but the longer shaft can influence this, both in reducing overall stiffness and possibly altering your swing mechanics. The longer shaft might influence your release. I ideally don't like to separate the shaft from the swing in a discussion like this. That's why my best advise is to extend one or two and see what happens.
  17. 1/2 inch will offer little change other than the 3 swing weight points heavier. If you like the shafts you have, just extend them. I might recommend just doing a couple irons first and taking them out to the range to see if you are getting the results you were hoping for before doing the whole set.
  18. Since you have the spare club, the best way to figure out what you're asking is to go ahead and extend it, and hit it against your other 6 iron. I can tell you in theory that you might get more distance, but that doesn't always pan out with longer clubs, as it often leads to more inconsistency. Shaft will flex a bit more if nothing else changed, however if you start removing the lead tape than it will feel stiffer. Trajectory should not really change at least from what the shaft is contributing, but the longer club may influence your swing in such a way as you might see some launch changes. As far as extensions vs. reshafting, my personal rule has always been that up to an inch or so, extensions are fine. If you are going longer than that I personally would look at new shafts. Weight change in one vs. the other is minimal. A few grams more back weighted with the overlap from the extension.
  19. Not sure if I can re-edit after I already did once, so here is the above mentioned first review.
  20. Not sure how many of you have looked at my club spec review of the TM M5 I posted a link to here. Hopefully people found it informative. I am currently working on the next video for the Callaway Epic Flash driver, but wanted to see if people had another driver they wanted spec checked next. If interested please vote for what will be the 3rd review.
  21. Just finished the first of a new series of club reviews. No banging balls at 120mph, no GC Quad ball data, just looking at how consistent these modern clubs are. Have not seen anything like it before and figured some TSTers would hopefully appreciate. First up, TaylorMade M5 driver. Please enjoy.
  22. Yes. In theory should drop your back spin numbers a bit which might give you some more roll.
  23. Callaway did this way back in 2006 I think for Phil winning the Masters and he did (think that's the year he did). I was working for Golfsmith during it and honestly don't remember that many people actually buying the drivers before the event. When it comes down to it, it's a fun promotion when you hear about it but most people are too lazy to actually go out and buy the driver or order it online, so the numbers are probably far less then you would expect. Beyond that, as someone else mentioned, TM buy insurance against it, just like when a tournament buys insurance for a $1,000,000 hole in one prize.
  24. From my memory it was around 58g, high launch, relatively soft for the flex designation. Maybe look at PX Hzdrs Red, or Diamana Red type in the lighter weights.
  25. Low slice is the opposite of what to expect from a shaft that is too whippy. The shaft could be causing you to do something in your swing to hit low slices but that softer shaft is only going to increase loft and close the face more. Your hands will never outrun the head. It always gets to the ball first.
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