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Adam C

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Everything posted by Adam C

  1. This is a little tricky to say which is right and why they are different. Could both be wrong or could both be right. First I will say remember that the clubs you were fitting are different and have different specs. Stock length on the 5s are longer than the 2s. Swing weights are also slightly different and static weights are different. 100g DG shaft vs a 112g PX (speaking rough cut weights) also could make differences with lie angle. All this is to say that I think you need to fit each club (ie set) on it's own after picking the shaft and head you want. Because those two things will impact the lie fitting. As a club maker I have also come to the conclusion after years that iron length need be far less rigid in it's measurements. If you feel more comfortable with longer clubs so that you are less hunched over in the short irons, then go with that. A half inch longer iron is not going to make much difference in your accuracy game and if it feels more comfortable then go with it. Just make sure you factor in the weight changes in a longer club because that is way more important than length. After all that lock down the lie angles.
  2. Wanted to include a chart concerning what I was saying about the PX vs DG. I was thinking the PX was noticeably stiffer, but in fact it is only slightly stiffer in the very tip. It is really the mid section where it shows significant stiffness over the DG. With the softer butt, that all equals lower launch. See EI chart. The Flighted PX does have the higher launch in the longer shafts. The tip on the modus is much softer in the 130 and should launch much higher than either PX or DG everything else being equal.
  3. You are not kidding. Those shafts are all over the map. I think that your early release is basically negating much of the flex character of the shaft. The earlier the release, the less the shaft bend profile will have any influence on the results. I think the software isn't able to make any real recommendations because of that. As far as the starting point goes, the PX 6.0 is actually lower launching compared to Dynamic Gold. Stiffer tip and softer butt. The Modus 130 is a higher launch compared to the PX but also compared to the Modus 120. But again if like you said, your release is early then these factors will be muted. I would probably focus more on the weight aspect and see what feels best.
  4. I have never played one on the course but having worked in the business remember back to when we sold them and they are beautiful looking putters. The problem with them as you stated is they are very light and as a result are not great playing on greens that are less then fast. Personally I might add a little lead tape to the bottom or back to get a couple more SW points. Could also add a plug weight to keep the look clean, although depending what model it is, that may require some weight grinding.
  5. As far as flex goes with trimming, tip trimming will have a greater influence on the flex then butt trimming. Yes in theory simply making the club shorter from the butt will increase the frequency, however it is less then you might think because you are cutting from the stiffer side of the shaft. Remember, the butt end is always stiffer than the tip and continues to increase in stiffness all the way to the butt end. There are a few exceptions with certain shafts where the very end may soften again just as there are cases where the tip end softens before beginning to stiffen again in the tip mid section. This is a lot more detail then you probably need but the point is don't worry about the butt trimming so much with stiffness. If you want it stiffer, tip trim more. Just make sure you know your parallel tip length so you don't cut beyond the taper start. But I also agree flex is less important than weight. Best rule I can give you is go as light as you can without losing control/consistency. You want him swinging the club, not the other way around.
  6. 4 grams in the grip equals 1 swing weight point change. 2 grams in the head equals 1 swing weight point change in the opposite direction. Are you sure about that grip weight though. Usually cutting a half inch will lose 3 SW points so assuming your driver started at 45 at the longest, you should have lost 4.5 SW points with that grip weight.
  7. 2 inches on the 3 wood is probably more than you want. Would think 1 inch at most. Do not operate heavy machinery or shaft cutting tools while under the influence.
  8. Titleist will be able to tell you what the clubs are. Those numbers are really more reference numbers for them to know the specs of the clubs. Depending what adjustments were done to the individual clubs, you can have numerous numbers in one set. Tour van clubs may not have any numbers on them. It could also be a pieced together set or set where certain clubs were replaced for whatever reason. As long as the specs match, doesn't really matter.
  9. I would do a wrist to floor measurement. Still in my opinion the best place to start with club length. Measure from the break in your wrist to the floor while just in regular standing posture, not golf stance. Have someone else measure because the numbers can get thrown off when you do it yourself. 34 to 36 is considered standard. 33 or less and I would cut down a half inch (or 37.5 inch 5 iron). I know some people will tell you to cut it at quarter inch intervals at some points but I really don't think it is worth the time and effort for 1/4 inch. Basically you want to make sure that you are comfortable with your set up posture especially with your short irons. Grab your PW and choke down 1/2 inch and hit some balls. If it feels comfortable then the longer clubs won't be an issue.
  10. If that is what you were fitted for I would say that is probably pretty close based on just your height. Drivers always give some wiggle room because most people technically play longer than what they are fitting wise supposed to. They make drivers 45 inches or more, but the measurements would say most people should be around 43 1/2 inches. If you are looking for more consistency go with 43. If you want a little more distance (at least in theory) go 43 1/2 or 44. Again just pay attention to the swing weight because cutting 2 inches will drop an entire letter on the swing weight scale, so be prepared to add some weight back with lead tape or something. Could also go with a lighter grip to help a little at least.
  11. Okay so 43 inch total length. Assuming you are around 5ft8 or under because 43 inch driver is pretty short (2 inches under standard). So epoxy the shaft into the adaptor, install the adaptor in the head, and then measure to the 42 3/4. Best way to measure if you don't have a specific club ruler is to set the club down as it would when you hit it, put the ruler under the shaft up against it with the end touching the ground and measure up. As far as cutting goes, a dremel will work but I would probably recommend just using a hack saw with a newer blade if you have not done this before. Just wrap about 2 layers of masking tape over the cutting area and use a smooth saw stroke with light pressure. Should take about 30-40 seconds to cut through. Just fyi cutting the club down this much will make it feel much lighter. May need to add some weight to the head to get the swing weight back up.
  12. I have always believed that you should play with the most forgiving clubs you can be happy with. I don't necessarily believe all the info about inconsistencies in distance and accuracy on GI clubs. Would need to look at some numbers again but the fact that the GI clubs go further by itself will lead to more dispersion even though the percentages may be similar when factoring in the extra length versus players clubs. Other factors should also be considered when looking at those accuracy numbers, ie shaft weight, launch characteristics. Like others have said, it come down to launch angle. GI irons want to hit it high and that is usually not needed by tour level players. Really more specifically younger good players. As we get older and swing slows down, a little help with launch is not a bad thing. Most good players don't have issues with the shorter and mid irons, but 3 through 5 or 6 irons may need some help with height. The only argument I will give for smaller heads is they also have smaller soles which allows you to get to the ball easier on those uneven lies. That is a big deal for many tour level players because they play on many uneven lies. All this is to say I might look at a mixed set with more forgiving longer clubs and less forgiving short irons, depending on what your ball flight looks like with the long and short irons. Just make sure you keep the shafts all the same for consistency, and match up the other specs. Lofts might take some time to figure out based on head design. Would not just go off loft numbers. Probably would require some bending after the fact or a full set fitting.
  13. Are you saying you need a 43 inch driver because that is what you were fitted for, or are you saying you measured the current shaft in the adaptor and that measured out at 43 inches? If it's a 43 inch final length driver, then just assemble it, then measure to get to 42 3/4 length. The grip will add that last 1/4 inch. If you are saying 43 inch shaft to match the old one just measure the shaft without the head. Let me know if you need more details about how or where to cut.
  14. It really isn't that surprising seeing it on a putter like that. I have worked on irons that people plugged with wood. I said previously that the person who did it didn't know what they were doing but that probably wasn't fair. It really wasn't until pretty recently that we had all the different shaft extensions available and I think that wood dowels were used pretty regularly. Now 5 inches is a lot, but will be minimally noticed on a putter as evident by this discovery. You would lose a good bit of feel. My biggest question is why the shaft looks like it was chewed off by a bear. That is a strange break pattern.
  15. Those Burner 2s are getting up there and you would possibly benefit from something newer. Any of the major manufacturers make a quality product, it just comes down to personal preference. As far as the driver goes, that SLDR is not really old. Only 3 cycles. Don't let the manufacturers and golf magazines fool you about all these supposed driver advantages with every new model. The fact is that as of around 2004 with the rules locking in the head size and COR limits, the drivers do not change much now. That being said, the SLDR was a unique club in the way it was weighted and I believe that many people who bought them did not add enough loft to truly take advantage of the technology. That club really requires a high launch to max it out. You would have to be the judge as to whether you are getting good results out of it. If you are looking for drivers to cancel out slices, look at draw bias weighting, higher lofts, and more flexible shafts.
  16. My guess is that this was done by someone at home who probably didn't know what they were doing and decided to add length by ramming a wood dowel into the shaft. Is it the best way to do this, no. But does it work to add length, yes.
  17. No real difference between the two. If they are both new then the grooves are good. The Titleist online fitting tool is pretty good. These are the basic rules on the bounce/grind stuff. Higher bounce is good for steeper angle of attack (deep divot). Also good for fluffier lies, both in sand and grass as it keeps the wedge from digging down too far. Low bounces are opposite that. Shallow angle of attack with little divot, tight lies, hard fairways, and shallow filled bunkers. Most golfers are better off with more bounce. Grind is important if you are using the wedge with an open face to hit flop shots etc. Can also be helpful on uneven lies. That being said, the more you grind off the bottom of the club, the less forgiving it will be.
  18. Second that. Game improvement. There are a lot of brands now that offer a more compact GI iron, Callaway, TaylorMade, Ping, Titleist, etc. They are more expensive but give you a nice combination of forgiveness and classic looks. They are going to have lower lofts and you will definitely hit them further that 18 year old Adams so just be prepared. Don't buy clubs for where you think you will be a year from now. Buy them for now. Good luck.
  19. Having fit many golfers over many years, all I can say is you should never try to fit your swing into a certain club. It should be the club fitting into your swing and tendencies. This is my opinion but if you can't get out on the course and realistically break 80 on any given day, clubs in that 588 category are not what you need regardless of how much you like the look. Clubs with this design are made to hit it low with maximum workability. In other words short and crooked unless you have the consistent swing to use them. You also won't be able to find blades with larger offset numbers. They just aren't made. People would ask all the time if they are going to "grow out of" the game improvement clubs, and unless you grow out of wanting to hit the ball high and straight the answer is no. If you get yourself down to that 8 handicap and are hitting the GI irons too high or want to move then (ball flight) more easily then at that point I would look at the more players style irons. All that being said you probably should at the least go for a basic fitting and see if you need longer clubs, possible more upright, and bigger grips, which I would guess you would based on your height. Adding some length will usually run you around $7-$8 per club plus cost of grip. You probably won't be able to bend those RACs very much if I remember correctly, the are pretty brittle, but just the length adjustment will help the lie angle.
  20. Fitting is never a bad idea. Definitely look at graphite. First it will give you more distance with lighter weights. Second it dampens out more vibration which is always good for any sort of golf related pain. More flexible shaft will help close the face at impact if you are losing the ball to the right. Flex usually does little to actually help with distance other than squaring the face easier. It might give you a little more height but hard to say without knowing your swing. The stock graphite shafts in the type of clubs you are looking at (hybrid sets) should all have the launch characteristics you are looking for regardless of brand.
  21. It's old. Pretty sure it is from mid/late 90s based on that design. Under $10.
  22. These two are probably going to be pretty similar. The stock Alta is high launch, counterbalanced, not sure of the torque but would guess it's around 4.3. Aldila NVS is an older shaft but also higher launch with similar torque (assuming you are comparing similar weights). Only real difference I think would be the counterbalancing in the Alta, so swing weights might be different (again assuming you are comparing similar weights).
  23. The heads won't be much different. Doubt if you would even see 5 yards just comparing the heads. Biggest difference is the shafts. That Speeder is 80 grams, low torque, low launch. The two Mitsus are both going to launch higher. Usually the lighter will launch higher, if everything else is equal. Of the three, the Tensei probably splits the difference between the other two. All this is to say that the 818 is only going to be "better" if that shaft fits your swing better.
  24. I can't speak specifically about cutting down a longer counterbalanced putter but I have used a Heavy Putter which was a thing about 13 years ago. Basically a very heavy head and shaft, face balanced putter. I also have modified several putters with weight plugs, tungsten powder, and lead tape. What I would say about all of them was I liked them much more on slower greens then faster. Also liked them more on shorter putts (inside 10 feet). That being said, I always end up going back to a more traditional weighting.
  25. Does it have the shaft band still? That could help.
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