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Adam C

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Everything posted by Adam C

  1. This is off my youtube channel where I show specifically removal of an adapter, what you need and how you do it. I use a heat gun, you can also use a butane torch. I would not use a MAP torch if you are wanting to save and reuse the shaft.
  2. I would tell you before anything else, go hit the club again on a different day. Between the change in length, lie, weight, there's a lot going on and it might take a bit to adjust to. Also don't hit it at the same time as your other irons, just get a small bucket and focus on it before you make any decisions. Changing to different golf clubs can be like driving a rental car. At first it can feel awkward, as it's different from what you've been used to. But after you drive it for a couple days, it feels natural. I think too many people have this idea that when you get fitted or change something, it will just be an immediate improvement. While this can be the case, often you have to work with the clubs a bit before the results can truly be measured.
  3. It may be more but I can't say without them in front of me. Cast clubs in general will be harder and more brittle which means limited bendability. I can't remember Tommy Armour doing much in the forged realm so most club builders will have a tough time with them.
  4. Those irons probably only have about 1 degree of movement in them in any direction. Any more than that, they may snap.
  5. Frequency or flex is really pretty far down the list of importance. Some may argue with me, but here is my list of what's most important in shafts. 1. Weight- most important by far 2. Radial Consistency- really the only thing I use my freq machine for. Tells me how consistent the shaft is. 3. Balance point- affects SW and feel 4. Bend Profile- high launch vs low launch etc. 5. Torque/ color- not worth worrying about in general Flex can really move around on this list much like price. Both can be more important for some people than others. Remember, in the end the shaft only can do what you make it do. It's not an engine, it's not a whip. If you can square the face at impact, you can play any shaft. If you have trouble with squaring the face at impact or you need more launch (although this is better addressed with other changes), then you may want a softer shaft is it could help close the face at impact based on your swing. So to answer your question, weight is what I would focus more on than flex. Second, making sure it's a good consistent shaft in how it bends. And so on down the list. If you find a shaft you hit well, I can give you recommendations based on weight and bend profile, however this really only works within the framework of that specific club you're using. Picking iron shafts off a driver shaft or vise versa is more unreliable.
  6. Have not ever used or seen them in person. Can't say I have ever worried about the "S waves" in my driver shaft. I have never seen or read anything suggesting that this is a real issue, but again have not tried them so I won't completely discount them.
  7. If you check out my youtube video on cutting dow a shaft, I go through how to measure a club correctly.
  8. .355 taper tip shafts have the tip of the shaft tapered down like the name says on the last inch approx. Because of that each shaft is pre made to go into a specific iron based on weight and launch characteristics. So what they tell you there is what iron number each shaft should go with. That being said, some people will also do what's referred to as hard or soft stepping where you basically put the 7 iron shaft in the 6 iron and continue this pattern through the set (hard stepping) to make it stiffer and lower launch, or put 5 iron shaft in 6 iron etc (soft stepping) to make the set play softer and launch higher. Just as a side note, .370 shafts don't have that tapered end and usually just come in one length (usually 41 inches). In this case you have to cut the tip section first based on shaft brand recommendations to get the correct flex and launch for each iron head, then continue the process we've already discussed. You will still have to butt cut the shafts before gripping, because the uncut length is still too long. Make sure you understand how to measure clubs correctly so you get the right length.
  9. Just to be sure, you may want to pull one of the old shafts and measure the tip. I kind of feel like I have seen TAs in both .355 and .370. May be wrong but... Yes, you would order an extra 36 for the wedge. As far as butt cutting them, some people keep all the wedges the same final length, some like to trim them at small increments so that the LW is slightly shorter than SW, which is slightly shorter than PW. Personal preference. I usually keep them the same so the higher lofts don't get too short. As for the other stuff, don't PURE, never PURE, total waste of money and time. If you do need .355 tip shafts, you don't tip cut them, only butt cut to final length (which you should really only do after you have epoxied the heads, so you can get accurate measurements). Tip prepping refers to just roughing up the tip section where the shaft fits in the head. If you have a belt sander, or even just sand paper, it's simple to do yourself. Just trying to remove some of the chrome finish, rough it up a bit to get a better epoxy bond.
  10. Refers to the tip of the shaft that goes into the hosel. Irons will be one or the other .355 (taper) or .370 parallel. You want to make sure you get the right one. It's a lot more work otherwise.
  11. TT Lites are discontinued model so you may have a little trouble finding a full set in your specs. I can't remember off the top of my head whether those TAs are taper or parallel, you will want to make sure you know, before buying shafts. If it helps I have been putting together a video series on youtube where I cover many of the basics of club building. It's based off a club making class I used to teach. You can search it under Mobile Clubmaker. I know there are plenty of youtube videos out there about golf club building but it's amazing how few of them are actually done by knowledgeable builders. If you have any specific assembly questions, feel free to send me a message.
  12. What shaft and grip were you using? Just wanting to get idea of the cost breakdown.
  13. As far as length goes, if you're 6'4 and like the way 1/2 over feels, don't change it. Comfort is by far most important when it comes to length. As long as your short irons feel comfortable and your long irons don't feel unwieldy, that's what you want. For lie angle, go ahead and check it with the standard 1/2 over clubs and see how it looks. If it's just off by a degree or so, I would just play with it for a least a little if your swing is in fact in a state of flux. Finally bounce. Most golfers will be better off with more bounce. I don't want to assume but taller golfers also usually have steeper AoAs so again more bounce. Bounce amounts kind of move in a bell curve on wedges with the 56 degree offering the highest bounce options. 52 degree often will only offer 1 or 2 options around 10 degrees. 60 will offer a low, mid, and high. From where it sounds like you are in your game, go with higher bounce. It's your friend!
  14. Yes, if you do that you've increased the loft just like it's supposed to work. When you increase the loft on a adjustable hosel, you push the shaft forward of the face. Now if you take that new hosel position and return the shaft to neutral, perpendicular to the ground, it will fall closed if you just balance it in your fingers. However, if you setup to the ball and square the face to your target, the loft will have increased. People will argue that this takes away the fitting element of face angle, but I would argue that face angle is not and should not be grouped into the category of club fitting at all. It's not fitting, it's a set up element. Just like ball position or tee height.
  15. Tricky question, as it is really golfer dependent. Hitting fat and casting could be influenced by shaft weight but that is always going to be more of a swing issue than equipment. Those problems will not be solved by shaft weight, only mitigated at best. I would look at where you hit more of your inconsistent shots. If you hit more poor shots at the end of the round, then the shafts may be too heavy as you get more tired. If you hit more bad shots at the top of the round, the shafts may be too light for your personal feel and causing inconsistency until you get into the round and find your timing. That being said I recently switched from 130 gram steel down to 105 gram steel and did not notice a big difference specifically from the shaft. I switched to a different head too, and for me the head is the bigger influence in any changes I see in ball flight.
  16. You lost me here. If you open the face of any club you add loft, close it and subtract loft. If I open my driver face 3 degrees, my static loft from that position will be 1.5 degrees higher. This is independent of the hosel adjustments. To argue against the static loft changes from a hosel adapter change, you would also have to argue against the idea of bending the lofts strong or weak on irons. The premise is identical in both.
  17. Would start with calling or chatting through their site, although they have the worst website I've ever seen. If that causes issues, you can use those other sites who will just put in the order and Mizuno will build and drop ship directly to you.
  18. None of those are building the sets. They are just ordering them based off your specs from Mizuno. Mizuno will be building them. Don't see anything there in the specs that would require special custom builds unless I am missing something.
  19. They do actually change loft. I am guessing you are referring to Tom Wishon where he talks about this, but unfortunately he has skin in the game and is a bit biased in my opinion. The hosel adapters change the hosel angle into the ball, tilting it back (grip away from the target) to decrease the loft and tilting it towards the target to increase the loft. Now it is true when this happens, it influences the face angle. Angling the shaft back to drop the loft will cause the head to fall open when set squarely and do the opposite when angled forward. Now it does become a matter of semantics in how we describe what this new club is, because the head obviously has not physically changed, so that if you sole it on the ground, and disregard the shaft, it has not changed in loft. This is Tom Wishon's argument. However I would argue that golfers will do two things consistently when setting up to hit the driver. First, they will have the club extending down at a certain angle or shaft lean. I don't know of any golfer who changes this based on hosel changes. It doesn't happen. If you like your setup with 2 degrees of forward shaft lean, that is what you will do. Likewise, the golfer will manually adjust any face angle bias to what they prefer. I have not seen many golfers set up with a face angle other than square to the target. I realize there are a few who may close it to fight a slice or open for a hook, but most will just try and aim it down the target line. When that is done, loft adjustments from the hosel sleeve are realized and do influence launch.
  20. How were your grips? Were your grips okay or were they FUBAR like everything else? Sounds like they did everything to your clubs short of bringing in a shaman to banish the evil spirits. Let me start out by saying this, if you go to a teaching pro and say you're hitting it badly, they are going to work on your swing. If you go to a club fitter, with the exact same problem, they are going to work on your equipment. First, the shafts. I know that it can be disheartening to hear that there's no standard for flex but the reason for that is not to dupe the consumer, it's simply the number of variables that can influence flex. It's nice to hear that they still use their old frequency machine where you went (the thing that tells the stiffness of the shaft when they lock it in a vice and twang it). Unfortunately, it's really useless in these capacities. I have a frequency machine, but I only use it as a way to measure how consistent a shaft is, aka radial quality. If you care you can find my use for it on Youtube at the Mobile Clubmaker. Beyond that, not much use to it. A club fitter will tell you that a shaft is incredibly important. It's a rocket engine in their minds. That's just not true. The goal of a shaft is to return the club head to the back of the ball in the position you put it in. It's on you. A shaft can only influence two things. Launch height and direction, but only left direction (for RH golfers and vice versa for LH). A more flexible shaft can allow the club head to flex forward and more closed, meaning higher, more left launch. But this is only the case for certain golfers who load the shaft at the appropriate time. For golfers with an early release, it doesn't matter. The shaft has already flexed and returned to neutral before you get to the ball. All this is to say, if you have issues hitting it high enough or not closing the face enough at impact, a shaft can help you but that's all it can do. What you should focus on with shafts in my opinion is in this order. 1. Weight- by far the most important spec on a shaft, as it can influence the swing to the greatest extent. 2. Consistency- does the shaft flex consistently around it's circumference. Older shafts, especially graphite could be very inconsistent. Modern carbon fiber shafts are much better but can still be inconsistent, steel for the most part is very consistent. 3. Balance point- only an issue with carbon fiber. Influences swing weight, how the club feels and therefore can influence the swing. 4. Bend profile- used to be called kick point. Refers to how and where the shaft bends which can influence the launch height and direction we already discussed. 5. Price- depending on the golfer this can be higher up the list. 6. Torque, Paint color- torque don't worry about, some people like to talk about it, but it's not worth mentioning here. After all these, you can pick the flex that works for your swing. But remember, the shaft's flex is directly related to the head weight and the length. A heavier head or longer shaft will make the shaft more flexible. As for weight and lofts. Weights can be off from iron to iron. Depending who builds them or the brand, there can be discrepancies. Will it be enough for you to notice? Depends on the person and the amount. Did you notice the weight issues from your 845s. Assuming they were 845? Lofts can also be off either right from the factory or for extended use. Never a bad idea to have your lofts and lie angles checked every so often. As for your driver loft, lie, and face angle issues. I would be skeptical about that measurement of 12 or 13 degrees loft at the 9 degree setting. That is way outside of any manufacturing tolerance. I not saying they did this on purpose but I can take any driver and based on how I set it in the machine, or where I measure on the face, I can get huge variations in loft on the same club. The key to measuring a driver is to minimize variables and I just don't know if they did that. If you really want to know if those numbers are correct, I would be happy to measure it for you if you ship it to me. Just pay for shipping both ways. Face angles will change when you alter the loft on an adjustable hosel. Different drivers will also be either closed, open, or square. However this only matters if you play the driver from this position and don't manually adjust your setup at address. I can take a open faced driver, close the face at setup and hit hooks with it and like wise with a closed face driver. Lie angle will also change on the driver when adjusting it, however this is of little importance with a low lofted club like a driver. Sorry this response really got long. Basic summation, some of what they addressed was correct/important, some of it not. If you have more questions let me know. I realize I kind of went all over the place here.
  21. Graphite Design still makes the YS series, just updated with more modern materials. That's probably not a bad starting point. From memory the old YS-6 was 65g, mid bend, 3.7 torque, and a bit soft compared with the other stock Titleist offerings. I can list off a number of shafts that could work and be similar if you want to go in a different direction from the YS, would just need to know a price point.
  22. The head weight is inconsequential since you're only talking about 1g differences. I have heard that the G410 is very forgiving so that could play a big part in it. The other big part is the 10g heavier shaft you use with it. Weight, in my experience is the most important spec in a shaft, and will have the biggest influence on your game.
  23. You might just want to go and do a fitting before and see what shaft comes out on top. Then you can either go with whatever shaft works "best" if it's aftermarket or find the most similar to it from the stock options as a more economical option.
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