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Adam C

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Everything posted by Adam C

  1. From my memory it was around 58g, high launch, relatively soft for the flex designation. Maybe look at PX Hzdrs Red, or Diamana Red type in the lighter weights.
  2. Low slice is the opposite of what to expect from a shaft that is too whippy. The shaft could be causing you to do something in your swing to hit low slices but that softer shaft is only going to increase loft and close the face more. Your hands will never outrun the head. It always gets to the ball first.
  3. Pretty sure all the TP specific shafts were .335 regardless of driver or fairway. May be wrong. Good old caliper will answer your question definitively.
  4. Yes, mainly from changes to weights and balance points. How your body reacts to different swing feels can change with changes in swing weight, head, grip, or shaft weight. That being said I personally believe that the firmness of the club in your hands (as influenced by grip firmness or shaft butt stiffness) can influence how your two hands interact, which could change your release point. This one is more of personal experience with my own game and fitting others, don't have any hard data to prove it.
  5. Are you losing them left with the long irons or too high? Is it a playability issue or just a feel issue? If both, then you may want to reshaft with steel. I know you said you like the weight feel at the end of the club but really on a technical level the steel is going to naturally provide more head weight at least in terms of swing weight because of the greater mass closer to the heads. Beyond that, one can always head weight adjust to get to a certain feel.
  6. It could be that you are swinging the graphite faster vs. the steel Nikes. Again if they feel different from what you tried when you bought them though I would go back and see if there is an issue with them.
  7. First question, did you change the swing weight from what the standard Ping weight is? That can change things. If not, you have a couple options. You could go to a store and find some Pings with the stiff Altas, and compare them to yours. Waggle them, hit them side by side. See if there is a difference. Other option is take them to a golf shop who can at least do a frequency check or load (deflection) test and see if the shafts are at least in the right range for stiff and not senior. S should be stiff, so unless there was a major printing mix up, (which I suppose could happen, though unlikely), not sure how this could be the case.
  8. If your tempo is quick, then heavier shafts are usually never a bad thing. Quick tempo by itself is not bad if you can still sequence everything correctly. Problem is if things get a little off with quick tempo, it's hard to recover. Not sure there is much to be done from a fitting standpoint, unless it's one particular part of your game that is the issue. I am guessing that the driver is your big issue club? If so could start out with shortening the shaft, maybe go heavier also. Also moving out of Canada to somewhere with a longer season would be helpful, if that's an option!
  9. If you haven't played in ten years I am guessing you are pretty rusty. I would get just a basic fitting to make sure the grip size, length, lie angle, and flex are in the ballpark. Then just pick out what looks good to your eye and your budget. If you are in the same category of irons (ie game improvement), the differences between brands will be minimal. If you like the look of TM, go that way. Don't over think it.
  10. The short answer to the second question is yes. The further out the cg is on the club, the more toe droop you can expect during the swing thanks to centrifugal force. However that being said, the amount of change would be minimal, the biggest difference seen in a driver, less so with irons. And as lie angle becomes less important as loft decreases, doubt you would ever notice it with driver.
  11. Just remember you don't have to buy anything from them once the fitting is done. You can take the specs they give you and shop around to find what they recommend or something else close. Seems like most of the stories I have heard end up with people in some exotic ultra premium shaft that runs over $400. If it goes that direction, remember you can always find cheaper shaft options that are just as good.
  12. Either those are the cheapest, most poorly manufactured irons ever, or you have the most violent golf swing in the history of the game!! Kidding aside, I have seen clubs break like this but only with starter sets. 4 breaking in one round though is extra impressive, in a bad way. Cheap materials, bad heat treatment, previous misuse, who knows. I definitely would not use any of the still in one piece clubs though as they are clearly dangerous.
  13. I could take an educated guess and say .355 but honestly I would just pull one of the heads and check it yourself to be sure.
  14. Basically, your driver has a certain balance of weight measured by SW (swing weight). Most drivers usually sit between D2 and D6. When you cut down a driver you lose head weight (actually the balance of weight changes) and the SW goes down. People will talk about losing the feel of the head. If you swing your driver upside-down holding by the head and swinging the grip end you will feel what I am talking about. How a club feels has a lot to do with the SW so if you like how your driver feels now, you may want to try to match the cut down club to that feel by adding weight back. However people are all different and some people will like a heavier or lighter feel. That is why you might try just gripping down to 44 inches first because the feel will be pretty similar as I showed above to cutting it down. If you like the gripped down weight feel, then if you decide to cut it, you won't have to bother adding weight back.
  15. I have always found that within a brand, irons for a given player type (ie game improvement, super game improvement, low handicapper) will be pretty similar to one another regardless of model year. The same style of Taylormade irons will be pretty similar regardless of whether they are 1 year old or 5 years old. Also the stock shafts don't change much from year to year so unless you are looking at some steel and some graphite or the shafts aren't the stock option or length, I wouldn't be too concerned. Pick the head you like the look of with the price you can be happy with. Good luck.
  16. Yes but I am not sure to what degree exactly. It will depend on how much weight you add back. The general rule is cutting a 1/2 inch drops the SW by 3 points. It's actually a bit less than that with a driver but. The Pro Orange is also counter balanced to a good amount so it may be even less, maybe 1 1/2 or 2 SW points per 1/2 inch. The cutting down will make the shaft feel a bit stiffer, also depending on where you are starting from with length. However this will be negated when you add weight back into the head to get your SW back to where you want it. You might want to start out by simply gripping down the shaft to that 44 inch length you want, to get an idea of the feel. It will be similar in SW feel to if you actually cut the shaft and regripped. I did a video about this if you want to see. From there, it's just a matter of putting weight back into the head with lead tape, Hotmelt, etc.
  17. So I posted a question on here yesterday basically asking about putting .580 grips on .600 shafts. Could it be done and what would the result be. I want to apologize up front because I admit I was baiting everyone with that post, however I really just wanted to see if everyone else had thought the same way I did concerning this topic. I got a response and a fair number of views confirming what I always had been told and believed. Anyone on here who regrips clubs either professionally or for themselves, I would invite to check out this video I just put on youtube. Would love to here what you guys think.
  18. Hi Everyone. Question, I have some grips I like that are only available in .580 diameter but I am pretty sure the shafts of my irons are .600 from what I have read. Can I put these grips on these shafts with the size issue, and is there anything I should be aware of when I do? Thanks for any help.
  19. Two questions you have to answer. Do you have issues squaring the face at impact and do you need more height. Those are the two things that the softer shaft can help with. Other than that and a few grams of weight, there is no real difference. The hard step will basically split the difference but retain the lighter weight.
  20. Most popular grip on tour and in golf in general is still the plain old Golf Pride Tour Velvet. Every company makes some version of it.
  21. I would look at True Temper AMTs. They have different versions based on launch desired but it basically does what you are wanting. Lighter, easier to launch longer iron shafts, and heavier shorter iron shafts. I might look at the black which are lighter through the set than DG S300s. Most people are probably better suited into a 105-120 gram shaft anyway.
  22. That may be the coolest sounding putter ever made. Never loved the reverse offset but the sound was great.
  23. I recently posted a video about this idea of cutting down vs. choking down on youtube. Basically showed the difference in weights, both static and SW. Only other issue to be concerned with is the grip diameter being smaller when gripping down the shaft.
  24. The 2KXV is going to feel similar to the old NV if you ever hit that shaft. Like Typhoon92 said, the Yellow is counterbalanced and that can change the feel, leading to changes in your swing transition, release point, etc. The 2KXV shouldn't give you any surprises and it's a really solid shaft. I would definitely hit the Yellow however before going that direction so you know what it's about.
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