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Adam C

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Everything posted by Adam C

  1. That looks like a putter should look. Simple, clean lines. Not flashing neon colors or weird USS Enterprise (Star Trek) shaped head. A simple putter allows you to just focus on the line and the speed.
  2. There are a bunch of ideas in this thread that I think need a bit of clarification. As others have said, lead tape is removable and not permanent. But beyond this, it is in fact reusable at least once or twice as long as it's not over handled and stuck onto clean, dry surfaces. I have never seen lead tape fall off a club. That really doesn't happen. The only way I could see that ever happening is either being affixed to a wet or dirty surface or if you try and put it on the sole of the club where it could be ripped off during turf interaction. If you are adamently against lead tape, you can also buy rubber tungsten weight stickers that are reusable. I saw them on Golfworks but you could also find them elsewhere I am sure. Let me be the first to dissuade you from using the tungsten powder in the shaft. This sounds good in theory but you will end up drastically changing the feel of your clubs. Think pounding on a bag of wet sand with a sledge hammer. Finally, you can drastically change the SW and the MOI when changing these weights in the head or the shaft (depending on weight location). Tip weights and tungsten powder will alter both of these. The swing weight change will be less so than a head weight change of the same weight, but can still be substantial.
  3. Technically the swing weight will be fractionally lighter with extensions vs. one solid shaft of same length assuming you use the same material for the extension and not a lighter one. That being said, I don't think you will have any issues with simple 1/2 inch extensions. Would probably do that first.
  4. Totally agree with the acetone. Just some on a q tip will take most paint off if it's only a small amount. If it's more, then a shop towel will work. This way you don't damage the finish unless you really rub the acetone with a more abrasive towel. Wouldn't do wire or sand unless last resort because you will probably be refinishing the club at the end of that process.
  5. MacGregor has been in the golf business for decades, although I don't know who owns the brand at this point. Would be surprised if it was not a subsidiary of some other sporting company. Wilson of course is a well know brand. Not sure who Fazer is. That being said, probably not a big difference between any of them. Would just look at the price and set make up (what clubs are in the set up) and pick from those two criteria.
  6. Going to go against some people on here, but unless you are under 5ft8 or over 6ft2, I say do the boxed set. You are wasting everyones time especially your own by trying to fit an inconsistent swing. You would need at least a consistent miss before you look at fitting. While I agree that a good used set is better quality than what comes in the boxed set, you are going to have a difficult time putting together a full decent set with bag for close to the price of the box. Get the boxed set, work with it for a while and then you can start switching out pieces as your swing comes together and you figure out what works for your swing. Good luck.
  7. Like you said for $75 you can't go very wrong as long as they are the right length.
  8. Just to be sure what I am looking at here. That's a graphite shaft underneath correct? Honestly I would just cut it at the top and call it a day. The problem is you are very likely going to damage the existing shaft with whatever method you use if you haven't already. Using the torch on it I would strongly discourage as it can and will damage the shaft. Any sort of twisting motion again can damage the shaft. With this type of home repair there is no telling what was done, or what type of glue was used. Either cut it or dump the whole thing and reshaft. Sorry I don't have better options.
  9. I think either 3 or 4 inches will be fine for the extension. Again I wouldn't do it on a 4 iron but I have put 3 inches on a putter just straight in for a guy and never heard of any issue with it. And that was with a standard grip, not counterbalanced. Just do your epoxy correctly and I wouldn't sweat 4 inches if you want it.
  10. If you have another longer putter and it feels more comfortable than by all means add the inch. Does the longer putter also sit toe down? After you make all the changes on the butt end, you can always bend the head upright. As far as the extra length ( 3 inches) for the grip, don't worry, just epoxy the extension in and you should be good. I would never do it on any other club, but with a putter and specifically with a counter balanced one where you aren't even gripping the back end of the grip usually, no problem.
  11. This is the last sentence from the original post. Lie angle up or toe hang (ie angle down). Otherwise the sentence does not make sense as they address two different questions. If he is asking about toe hang as it relates to lie angle then that is a whole different can of worms and I have no idea. Would need some engineers input.
  12. As we are both now just making general statements in an attempt to address a specific case, it probably makes sense to end this unless we could see some video or images of OP's setup position.
  13. Obviously the additional length does not somehow change the physical angle where the shaft enters the putter head. However, just like any club, as you ad length, you, the golfer, are moving farther away from the ball. This decreases the shaft angle from the ground. This is why your PW lie is greater than your 5 iron lie. As this angle decreases, the angle of the head increases. Think of it like a see saw where the base of the hosel is the fulcrum. Now as far as our OP is concerned, at 6ft 6, I think it's a fair assumption that with a 34 inch putter he is standing too close to the ball and thus the toe hangs down. Even if he is not standing close however, there is an additional reason that could be affecting the toe hang based on the height. If he is reaching for the ball because of the putter length, then the angle between his arms and the putter shaft has increased. It could now be close to 180 degrees as he stretches for the ball. This reaching would also have the result of flattening the putter head. In either case, adding length and allowing him to move farther away from the ball will again flatten the shaft angle and increase the putter head angle. Will this completely solve the issue? Will the toe still be down based on his particular setup and body proportions? Will he need the putter bent additionally more upright? I can't answer these over a forum post thread without some video. But, I can say that regarding the OP question, the putter will play more upright compared to how it is now.
  14. Yes, to answer your question the added length will change the lie angle more upright (aka toe up).
  15. Just so you know what you are working with, that SLDR was designed to be a spin killer. Super low spin and low launch which is why TM had to do their whole loft up campaign. Definitely need to work on getting those numbers down through your swing because other than maybe using a heavier shaft, the club is not the issue. Also if you struggle with accuracy and consistency with this driver, I would probably look elsewhere, aka not the SLDR, as that head design is very unforgiving.
  16. This is a huge misconception about COR and face flexing. It is not a trampoline that bounces the ball off the face. It is actually true that the slower swing speed will benefit less from the COR. What face flexing is doing is minimizing the deformation of the golf ball. The more the ball compresses (or deforms), the more energy is lost in the process. Based on the mass of the golf ball (46g) versus the club head, say 200g for a driver, this deformation has a larger impact on the ball than the club. I have read 80% to 20% ball to head. What flexible faces do is allow the head to deform more at impact and therefore allow the ball to deform less. This is what results in faster ball speeds. So the slower the swing speed, the less the ball compresses in the first place compared to a faster swing and the less impact COR has. I am not sure how the use of a low compression ball would work in this senerio. Might it have a greater COR influence?
  17. This topic comes up often. A shorter club is easier to make solid contact with. More control, better impact location. Whatever slight loss of head speed is negated by better contact thereby ball speed stays consistent and often higher on average.
  18. Whatever gets the ball in the hole. I have 3 putters right now. Two Scottys and a TaylorMade Rossa with some substantial modifications for weighting. I always default to the Scotty Studio Stainless because I love the look behind the ball and the feel is good. Also have a Scotty Am Classic Bullseye which I love but don't use as much even though it's my favorite to putt with. I can justify the price on a Scotty however because at the end of the day, a traditional shaped Scotty in good condition holds it's value better than any other club in golf without a doubt.
  19. I know how some people feel about static fitting measurements and would probably recommend an extensive and expensive full fitting but I still believe that a simple lie board check will tell you if the irons need an adjustment in lie angle. Start there before you go trying to bend clubs that may or may not bend.
  20. Okay, I am pretty sure that can't be true and he just doesn't know. It does prove we shouldn't care.
  21. 58 will be more forgiving than the 60. I doubt you will ever get into a situation where you are thinking, "Man, I wish I had 2 more degrees to pull this shot off".
  22. They charge $30 per club??? Wow. I don't think I appreciated how much of a snake oil salesman they are.
  23. Agree with the above comments about just let the club maker assemble and do all the trimming. Always want to butt trim after you epoxy. Not sure about that EOD and if that is taking a final grip on measurement or not. Hard to say for sure. Looks like they fitted you at 1/2 inch under standard. And the hybrid at 3/4 under standard. A 1/4 inch one way or the other won't change much in the end but I would either check with them or just get the club maker to take a quick measurement. I am more surprised about how they recommend Pureing everything on that sheet! Those guys are really trying to nickel and dime you. Those Aerotechs are great shafts and don't need it, nor does the Fuji hybrid shaft.
  24. I am just not sure why you want to do this. The counterbalanced putters like this are designed this way on purpose. You are going to all this trouble to basically make the putter back into a traditional putter. Unless you already own it, why not just look for a traditional 35 inch putter. Sounds like you prefer a bit more head weight, so find a heavier one or put a little lead tape on the head of one you like.
  25. It's actually the opposite. Long putter heads are much heavier than the standard version. They have to be when you ad all that extra shaft weight on the back end. Usually 100 grams heavier give or take. As far as the length goes you know many of those counter balanced putters are made longer on purpose with the idea being that you grip down in the middle of the grip not on the end like a traditional putter. If it's that kind of design (which it sounds like), then gripping down will also flatten it out and bring your ball position back to neutral below your eyes.
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