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Adam C

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Everything posted by Adam C

  1. 4 grams in the grip equals 1 swing weight point change. 2 grams in the head equals 1 swing weight point change in the opposite direction. Are you sure about that grip weight though. Usually cutting a half inch will lose 3 SW points so assuming your driver started at 45 at the longest, you should have lost 4.5 SW points with that grip weight.
  2. 2 inches on the 3 wood is probably more than you want. Would think 1 inch at most. Do not operate heavy machinery or shaft cutting tools while under the influence.
  3. Titleist will be able to tell you what the clubs are. Those numbers are really more reference numbers for them to know the specs of the clubs. Depending what adjustments were done to the individual clubs, you can have numerous numbers in one set. Tour van clubs may not have any numbers on them. It could also be a pieced together set or set where certain clubs were replaced for whatever reason. As long as the specs match, doesn't really matter.
  4. I would do a wrist to floor measurement. Still in my opinion the best place to start with club length. Measure from the break in your wrist to the floor while just in regular standing posture, not golf stance. Have someone else measure because the numbers can get thrown off when you do it yourself. 34 to 36 is considered standard. 33 or less and I would cut down a half inch (or 37.5 inch 5 iron). I know some people will tell you to cut it at quarter inch intervals at some points but I really don't think it is worth the time and effort for 1/4 inch. Basically you want to make sure that you are comfortable with your set up posture especially with your short irons. Grab your PW and choke down 1/2 inch and hit some balls. If it feels comfortable then the longer clubs won't be an issue.
  5. If that is what you were fitted for I would say that is probably pretty close based on just your height. Drivers always give some wiggle room because most people technically play longer than what they are fitting wise supposed to. They make drivers 45 inches or more, but the measurements would say most people should be around 43 1/2 inches. If you are looking for more consistency go with 43. If you want a little more distance (at least in theory) go 43 1/2 or 44. Again just pay attention to the swing weight because cutting 2 inches will drop an entire letter on the swing weight scale, so be prepared to add some weight back with lead tape or something. Could also go with a lighter grip to help a little at least.
  6. Okay so 43 inch total length. Assuming you are around 5ft8 or under because 43 inch driver is pretty short (2 inches under standard). So epoxy the shaft into the adaptor, install the adaptor in the head, and then measure to the 42 3/4. Best way to measure if you don't have a specific club ruler is to set the club down as it would when you hit it, put the ruler under the shaft up against it with the end touching the ground and measure up. As far as cutting goes, a dremel will work but I would probably recommend just using a hack saw with a newer blade if you have not done this before. Just wrap about 2 layers of masking tape over the cutting area and use a smooth saw stroke with light pressure. Should take about 30-40 seconds to cut through. Just fyi cutting the club down this much will make it feel much lighter. May need to add some weight to the head to get the swing weight back up.
  7. I have always believed that you should play with the most forgiving clubs you can be happy with. I don't necessarily believe all the info about inconsistencies in distance and accuracy on GI clubs. Would need to look at some numbers again but the fact that the GI clubs go further by itself will lead to more dispersion even though the percentages may be similar when factoring in the extra length versus players clubs. Other factors should also be considered when looking at those accuracy numbers, ie shaft weight, launch characteristics. Like others have said, it come down to launch angle. GI irons want to hit it high and that is usually not needed by tour level players. Really more specifically younger good players. As we get older and swing slows down, a little help with launch is not a bad thing. Most good players don't have issues with the shorter and mid irons, but 3 through 5 or 6 irons may need some help with height. The only argument I will give for smaller heads is they also have smaller soles which allows you to get to the ball easier on those uneven lies. That is a big deal for many tour level players because they play on many uneven lies. All this is to say I might look at a mixed set with more forgiving longer clubs and less forgiving short irons, depending on what your ball flight looks like with the long and short irons. Just make sure you keep the shafts all the same for consistency, and match up the other specs. Lofts might take some time to figure out based on head design. Would not just go off loft numbers. Probably would require some bending after the fact or a full set fitting.
  8. Are you saying you need a 43 inch driver because that is what you were fitted for, or are you saying you measured the current shaft in the adaptor and that measured out at 43 inches? If it's a 43 inch final length driver, then just assemble it, then measure to get to 42 3/4 length. The grip will add that last 1/4 inch. If you are saying 43 inch shaft to match the old one just measure the shaft without the head. Let me know if you need more details about how or where to cut.
  9. It really isn't that surprising seeing it on a putter like that. I have worked on irons that people plugged with wood. I said previously that the person who did it didn't know what they were doing but that probably wasn't fair. It really wasn't until pretty recently that we had all the different shaft extensions available and I think that wood dowels were used pretty regularly. Now 5 inches is a lot, but will be minimally noticed on a putter as evident by this discovery. You would lose a good bit of feel. My biggest question is why the shaft looks like it was chewed off by a bear. That is a strange break pattern.
  10. Those Burner 2s are getting up there and you would possibly benefit from something newer. Any of the major manufacturers make a quality product, it just comes down to personal preference. As far as the driver goes, that SLDR is not really old. Only 3 cycles. Don't let the manufacturers and golf magazines fool you about all these supposed driver advantages with every new model. The fact is that as of around 2004 with the rules locking in the head size and COR limits, the drivers do not change much now. That being said, the SLDR was a unique club in the way it was weighted and I believe that many people who bought them did not add enough loft to truly take advantage of the technology. That club really requires a high launch to max it out. You would have to be the judge as to whether you are getting good results out of it. If you are looking for drivers to cancel out slices, look at draw bias weighting, higher lofts, and more flexible shafts.
  11. My guess is that this was done by someone at home who probably didn't know what they were doing and decided to add length by ramming a wood dowel into the shaft. Is it the best way to do this, no. But does it work to add length, yes.
  12. No real difference between the two. If they are both new then the grooves are good. The Titleist online fitting tool is pretty good. These are the basic rules on the bounce/grind stuff. Higher bounce is good for steeper angle of attack (deep divot). Also good for fluffier lies, both in sand and grass as it keeps the wedge from digging down too far. Low bounces are opposite that. Shallow angle of attack with little divot, tight lies, hard fairways, and shallow filled bunkers. Most golfers are better off with more bounce. Grind is important if you are using the wedge with an open face to hit flop shots etc. Can also be helpful on uneven lies. That being said, the more you grind off the bottom of the club, the less forgiving it will be.
  13. Second that. Game improvement. There are a lot of brands now that offer a more compact GI iron, Callaway, TaylorMade, Ping, Titleist, etc. They are more expensive but give you a nice combination of forgiveness and classic looks. They are going to have lower lofts and you will definitely hit them further that 18 year old Adams so just be prepared. Don't buy clubs for where you think you will be a year from now. Buy them for now. Good luck.
  14. Having fit many golfers over many years, all I can say is you should never try to fit your swing into a certain club. It should be the club fitting into your swing and tendencies. This is my opinion but if you can't get out on the course and realistically break 80 on any given day, clubs in that 588 category are not what you need regardless of how much you like the look. Clubs with this design are made to hit it low with maximum workability. In other words short and crooked unless you have the consistent swing to use them. You also won't be able to find blades with larger offset numbers. They just aren't made. People would ask all the time if they are going to "grow out of" the game improvement clubs, and unless you grow out of wanting to hit the ball high and straight the answer is no. If you get yourself down to that 8 handicap and are hitting the GI irons too high or want to move then (ball flight) more easily then at that point I would look at the more players style irons. All that being said you probably should at the least go for a basic fitting and see if you need longer clubs, possible more upright, and bigger grips, which I would guess you would based on your height. Adding some length will usually run you around $7-$8 per club plus cost of grip. You probably won't be able to bend those RACs very much if I remember correctly, the are pretty brittle, but just the length adjustment will help the lie angle.
  15. Fitting is never a bad idea. Definitely look at graphite. First it will give you more distance with lighter weights. Second it dampens out more vibration which is always good for any sort of golf related pain. More flexible shaft will help close the face at impact if you are losing the ball to the right. Flex usually does little to actually help with distance other than squaring the face easier. It might give you a little more height but hard to say without knowing your swing. The stock graphite shafts in the type of clubs you are looking at (hybrid sets) should all have the launch characteristics you are looking for regardless of brand.
  16. It's old. Pretty sure it is from mid/late 90s based on that design. Under $10.
  17. These two are probably going to be pretty similar. The stock Alta is high launch, counterbalanced, not sure of the torque but would guess it's around 4.3. Aldila NVS is an older shaft but also higher launch with similar torque (assuming you are comparing similar weights). Only real difference I think would be the counterbalancing in the Alta, so swing weights might be different (again assuming you are comparing similar weights).
  18. The heads won't be much different. Doubt if you would even see 5 yards just comparing the heads. Biggest difference is the shafts. That Speeder is 80 grams, low torque, low launch. The two Mitsus are both going to launch higher. Usually the lighter will launch higher, if everything else is equal. Of the three, the Tensei probably splits the difference between the other two. All this is to say that the 818 is only going to be "better" if that shaft fits your swing better.
  19. I can't speak specifically about cutting down a longer counterbalanced putter but I have used a Heavy Putter which was a thing about 13 years ago. Basically a very heavy head and shaft, face balanced putter. I also have modified several putters with weight plugs, tungsten powder, and lead tape. What I would say about all of them was I liked them much more on slower greens then faster. Also liked them more on shorter putts (inside 10 feet). That being said, I always end up going back to a more traditional weighting.
  20. Does it have the shaft band still? That could help.
  21. The OEMs are always looking for a way to get more distance out of clubs, and beyond flexing face technology, the other option is going lighter. Lighter shafts should give more distance but it will depend on the golfer. There are cases where that heavier S300 gives more distance but that assumes you possess the power to use it. I would say most golfers will be best fit in something in the 110-115g weight. I realize this is a generalization but runs pretty true in my experience. Everything else being equal the heavier shaft should offer more consistency, and launch lower with lower spin. This of course is not always what happens with a given golfer but is what you would usually expect. The other reason why the shafts are lighter now is that they can be. That is to say that until recently lighter steel shafts were less reliable and consistent than heavy ones. Now shaft manufacturers can make lighter steel just as consistent as the heavy steel. My recommendation is reshaft one or two clubs only with a lighter shaft. Maybe the 110 version of DG if you like the S300. Make sure whoever does it keeps the old shafts and returns them. If you like the new shafts, finish off the set. If not, just pull them and go back to the old ones. That is what I would do if you want to keep your current sticks.
  22. I would recommend against the blades. More forgiving is always better, and there is nothing forgiving in those 18s. If you are not hitting the center of the club, you will see significant distance and direction loss. At the very least I would look at the cavity version of the 18s if you are set on going that direction. But again they will offer minimal help. Those pure blades are meant for low single digit handicappers and stronger golfers looking to control trajectory and work the ball.
  23. Take your driver with you and hit it against some current stuff on a launch monitor. See what the differences are (ball speed, launch angle, spin). It could be the shaft but hard to say without knowing the specs on each shaft you reference. Doesn't sound like you ever really hit the Ping well so it probably makes sense to look to other brands. Other thought, when they cut down the Ping did they add weight to the head. That inch you cut off would drop the swing weight at least 5 points. Might want to check the swing weight and see if it's too light. I think the standard R7 came in at D2.
  24. That's not true at all. Even within the confines of CoR and size limits, there are different ways to design a driver to perform differently. Forgiveness and minimizing ball speed loss on off-center hits is a huge part of club design. Placement of the CoG will change the characteristics of the club. Even within a single lineup, companies can put out different heads aimed towards different types of golfers. I should not have said no difference, I agree with that much. I should have said almost meaningless difference. Lets look at a couple numbers. In the USGA / R&A 2017 distance report, a sample of average male golfers showed a distance of 208 yards in 2016 and this represented an increase of 8 yards over a 21 year period. I could not find any more information on the sample size or demographic of these golfers. Found a Golf Digest article showing driving distance for 6 or better handicaps has increased from 234 to 236 from 1996 to 2017. Now 21 or higher handicappers saw an increase from 165 to 188 over the same time. 23 yards over 21 years. In case you were wondering PGA tour numbers were 26.6 yard increase over that time. Of course what I said was referencing changes since 2004 in clubs. So below is a driving distance graph from that previously mentioned 2017 report. Looks like the PGA tour average has gone up about 7 yards since 2003, LPGA and Champions about 5 yards. 7 yards over 14 years. If you look at the larger chart going back further you will see larger increases leading up to 2003 where it levels off more. Also below is one more chart from Arccos, again from a Golf Digest article showing driver distances by handicap for the last 4 years. Hmmm. Newer always better? So I will stand by my original statement. If you are on tour or can't break 100 then your 2004 Callaway Big Bertha or Taylormade 580 might be costing you around 7 yards. For those in between, it's probably less. Call it 5 yards over 15 years (a foot a year)! CoG movement, face design changes, moveable weights, adjustable hoses, carbon composites, paint jobs = 1 foot a year.
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