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Adam C

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Everything posted by Adam C

  1. The OEMs are always looking for a way to get more distance out of clubs, and beyond flexing face technology, the other option is going lighter. Lighter shafts should give more distance but it will depend on the golfer. There are cases where that heavier S300 gives more distance but that assumes you possess the power to use it. I would say most golfers will be best fit in something in the 110-115g weight. I realize this is a generalization but runs pretty true in my experience. Everything else being equal the heavier shaft should offer more consistency, and launch lower with lower spin. This of course is not always what happens with a given golfer but is what you would usually expect. The other reason why the shafts are lighter now is that they can be. That is to say that until recently lighter steel shafts were less reliable and consistent than heavy ones. Now shaft manufacturers can make lighter steel just as consistent as the heavy steel. My recommendation is reshaft one or two clubs only with a lighter shaft. Maybe the 110 version of DG if you like the S300. Make sure whoever does it keeps the old shafts and returns them. If you like the new shafts, finish off the set. If not, just pull them and go back to the old ones. That is what I would do if you want to keep your current sticks.
  2. I would recommend against the blades. More forgiving is always better, and there is nothing forgiving in those 18s. If you are not hitting the center of the club, you will see significant distance and direction loss. At the very least I would look at the cavity version of the 18s if you are set on going that direction. But again they will offer minimal help. Those pure blades are meant for low single digit handicappers and stronger golfers looking to control trajectory and work the ball.
  3. Take your driver with you and hit it against some current stuff on a launch monitor. See what the differences are (ball speed, launch angle, spin). It could be the shaft but hard to say without knowing the specs on each shaft you reference. Doesn't sound like you ever really hit the Ping well so it probably makes sense to look to other brands. Other thought, when they cut down the Ping did they add weight to the head. That inch you cut off would drop the swing weight at least 5 points. Might want to check the swing weight and see if it's too light. I think the standard R7 came in at D2.
  4. That's not true at all. Even within the confines of CoR and size limits, there are different ways to design a driver to perform differently. Forgiveness and minimizing ball speed loss on off-center hits is a huge part of club design. Placement of the CoG will change the characteristics of the club. Even within a single lineup, companies can put out different heads aimed towards different types of golfers. I should not have said no difference, I agree with that much. I should have said almost meaningless difference. Lets look at a couple numbers. In the USGA / R&A 2017 distance report, a sample of average male golfers showed a distance of 208 yards in 2016 and this represented an increase of 8 yards over a 21 year period. I could not find any more information on the sample size or demographic of these golfers. Found a Golf Digest article showing driving distance for 6 or better handicaps has increased from 234 to 236 from 1996 to 2017. Now 21 or higher handicappers saw an increase from 165 to 188 over the same time. 23 yards over 21 years. In case you were wondering PGA tour numbers were 26.6 yard increase over that time. Of course what I said was referencing changes since 2004 in clubs. So below is a driving distance graph from that previously mentioned 2017 report. Looks like the PGA tour average has gone up about 7 yards since 2003, LPGA and Champions about 5 yards. 7 yards over 14 years. If you look at the larger chart going back further you will see larger increases leading up to 2003 where it levels off more. Also below is one more chart from Arccos, again from a Golf Digest article showing driver distances by handicap for the last 4 years. Hmmm. Newer always better? So I will stand by my original statement. If you are on tour or can't break 100 then your 2004 Callaway Big Bertha or Taylormade 580 might be costing you around 7 yards. For those in between, it's probably less. Call it 5 yards over 15 years (a foot a year)! CoG movement, face design changes, moveable weights, adjustable hoses, carbon composites, paint jobs = 1 foot a year.
  5. Distance is primarily a factor of ball speed. And ball speed is a result of club head speed and solid impact (ie Smash Factor). Spin rate and launch angle will influence it, but not nearly as much as speed. The only way the manufacturers are going to get you any more speed is by making the club lighter and or longer. The industry will continue to put out new equipment but the driver itself is basically no different since they maxed out COR and head size. Everything now is just bells, whistles, and paint colors. Not to mention that the huge differences they advertise requires tour level speeds and will be much smaller for recreational players. At this point with technology, the most we can hope for is keeping the distance we have as we get older.
  6. Would try some Mizuno JPX, if you want great feeling, forged players clubs, that stop short of pure blades. I have always preferred Mizuno feel to that of Titleist, but it's all personal. I would say however that having worked in the business for many years and having fit many golfers of all skills, nobody ever returns clubs with the complaint that they are too easy to hit. Also I wouldn't be so concerned about cast vs forged. If you like the look and feel, who cares. Most people don't realize that all those Titleist Vokey and Cleveland wedges aren't forged, they're cast.
  7. Totally agree with billchao. Manufacturers were not just down lofting in an attempt to show distance gains. These stronger lofts are not new. Ever since game improvement and super game improvement irons came to market (ie Callaway Big Berthas, etc), lofts have been dropped to counter act more forgiving designs. With improvements in computer design, casting, forging, and multi material composites, the irons launch higher now across the board. Lighter club weights and a better understanding of shaft flex also help. It should also be noted that with the GI irons that are being discussed here, at this point many either don't offer a 3 iron or are not purchased by choice. Most golfers and especially the higher handicappers have replaced the long irons with hybrids or woods. So the fact that the 4 iron loft is now 3 iron probably provides a better distance gap from those hybrids or woods which in general fly consistently higher and further than the iron equivalent.
  8. Last piece of advise. Go do a launch monitor, but make sure it's outdoor on real grass. Fitting wedges off indoor mats is worthless or close to it. Turf interaction is so important with all wedges but most of all with higher lofts.
  9. I think those 900s come with Nippon 105 stock but would assume the DGs would be a stock option also. That being said you might want to look at a sub 130 gram shaft option if you are thinking about going down a flex. DG also comes in lighter options (120 and 105) along with AMT options which are good if you need long iron launch help, if you want to stay with True Temper. I know Mizuno is about to release the update to those 900s so you can probably get better prices now and still get the full custom fitting.
  10. I am with you that every five years is not necessary really with irons or woods. Woods hit their max years ago with COR and CC limits, after that the differences are much much smaller. Keep making them lighter, add some bells and whistles, that's about all they are changing. Irons even less so, especially with players clubs where game improvement tech is not used or to a lesser degree. That being said your clubs are pretty old. Not sure if you have ever reshafted them but that would be a definite in my book if you plan on keeping them. If you decide to change them the new irons out there do offer greater distance and forgiveness from where you are at. And remember since manufacturers put out new irons basically every year, you can often find better prices on previous models. Not sure what your fitting specs are but you could buy a year or two old model new and just have them adjusted. If you need longer shafts then maybe look at new current model since that is a bigger expense and I never recommend shaft extensions if avoidable. Best thing to do is go hit some new stuff side by side with your old sticks on a launch monitor and see for yourself what the difference is.
  11. 46 is 135, 52 is 110, and 57 is 90. That being said I rarely go after the 52 or 57 and would rather take the lower loft with a cut off swing for control and less spin.
  12. I think 6 is fine. I carry 3 wedges 46,52,57 basically 6 each. Just remember the more loft on that wedge, the harder you have to swing to move the ball forward and the smaller the margin for error. Everyone is different but my belief is use the lowest loft you can get away with on any particular green side shot, especially for higher handicappers. Miss a little with a 52 degree and the result will still be in the ballpark, miss a little with a 62, and the ball might go 12 inches or 50 yards. Best of luck.
  13. Those Burner shafts were probably lighter and higher launching compared to PX. Also I have found as a general rule Titleist irons are going to launch lower across the board even in the more forgiving models.
  14. Maybe start out getting the specs checked, loft and lie, etc. If they are all going the same distance that might be a part of the problem. Length and swing weight also maybe. Is the ball flight low or high with the new sticks? Not sure what burner irons you are coming from but the weights may be very different from the new ones. Without seeing the clubs or your swing, that would be my suggestion to start. Also make sure you are giving the new clubs a chance. If the weights etc, are different you may just need time getting used to them.
  15. Would need to know what specific version of each shaft you are talking about before making any good guesses. Usually 6 grams shaft weight will have minimal swing weight change since the weight is spread out over the length of the shaft. As far as the feel and the ball flight, again would depend on what specific shafts we are talking about. Weight, torque, EI profile, all influence what you are asking about. If you tell me the shafts I might be able to give you a better idea.
  16. Not sure about the finish as related to the paint. But you should also be wary of the finish just from the stamping if you have not seen it before. Also do you know what type of metal it is? Harder, more brittle metals are more difficult to get a decent stamp on. At that price point I am not sure how soft the metal is going to be. Also assuming you have done stamping work before, if not I would recommend practicing on a junker club. As far as paint goes, try and keep it as clean as possible during the process, so you have minimal clean up. I tiny bit of mineral spirits or acetone on a clean rag or cue tip, gently wiping off the excess should work. Again not knowing how that surface will react, you may want to do a small wipe off the sole first to make sure the finish doesn't come off. Good luck.
  17. New lead tape will not be a problem. Yes, if you have had tape on for 15 years then its soft nature will start to mold into the club from the constant banging together of clubs but new tape is not an issue. I own a repair shop and worked as a club maker for Golfsmith for 3 years and have literally used pounds of lead tape. If you can pull off duct tape, you can pull off lead tape.
  18. Any finish will start to wear off eventually. The dark finishes will be more noticeable. Chrome is probably the longest lasting of any finish but it will also wear. The more the club interacts with sand, either in bunkers or coastal soils, the faster it goes. Good news is none of that will affect play, although a well worn face or sole means the grooves are also well worn.
  19. Lead tape comes off very easily, that is kind of the point. You can go one piece at a time and build it up. There is no need for any grinding! Just get a roll of lead tape and place it on the back or bottom of the club. Just stick it on, don't try and mash it into the crevices. If you need to remove it, just pull it off. If it needs a little help use a hairdryer for a minute to heat the adhesive. Worst case, you may have to remove a little adhesive residue with some solvent.
  20. Half an inch will lighten the SW by about 3 points. Can vary slightly based on the shaft weight and if it's counterbalanced. Midsize grip will also lighten the SW. Basic rule is 4 grams in the grip = 1 SW point, 2 grams in the head = 1 SW point. Could also go with a lighter grip like a midsize Winn which are usually significantly lighter than pure rubber. Assume if you are using a standard size rubber grip, it weighs 50g. If after all that the head feels too light I would recommend using lead tape first to figure out what feels right. Remember, once you HotMelt, there is no going back. Once you find the right feel and if you don't like the tape look, a decent club maker can replicate with either HotMelt or installing a tip weight. Good Luck.
  21. You just have to decide where you plan on using the PW more. For full swings I would stick with the set wedge. For shorter shots, you could gravitate towards the blade style. But like the other post said, you just have to see where your distance gaps fall and possibly adjust some lofts need be. As far as what most tour guys are doing, from what I have read and seen it's about 50/50.
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