Jump to content

Adam C

Established Member
  • Content Count

    537
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Everything posted by Adam C

  1. Okay so 43 inch total length. Assuming you are around 5ft8 or under because 43 inch driver is pretty short (2 inches under standard). So epoxy the shaft into the adaptor, install the adaptor in the head, and then measure to the 42 3/4. Best way to measure if you don't have a specific club ruler is to set the club down as it would when you hit it, put the ruler under the shaft up against it with the end touching the ground and measure up. As far as cutting goes, a dremel will work but I would probably recommend just using a hack saw with a newer blade if you have not done this before. Just wrap
  2. I have always believed that you should play with the most forgiving clubs you can be happy with. I don't necessarily believe all the info about inconsistencies in distance and accuracy on GI clubs. Would need to look at some numbers again but the fact that the GI clubs go further by itself will lead to more dispersion even though the percentages may be similar when factoring in the extra length versus players clubs. Other factors should also be considered when looking at those accuracy numbers, ie shaft weight, launch characteristics. Like others have said, it come down to launch angle.
  3. Are you saying you need a 43 inch driver because that is what you were fitted for, or are you saying you measured the current shaft in the adaptor and that measured out at 43 inches? If it's a 43 inch final length driver, then just assemble it, then measure to get to 42 3/4 length. The grip will add that last 1/4 inch. If you are saying 43 inch shaft to match the old one just measure the shaft without the head. Let me know if you need more details about how or where to cut.
  4. It really isn't that surprising seeing it on a putter like that. I have worked on irons that people plugged with wood. I said previously that the person who did it didn't know what they were doing but that probably wasn't fair. It really wasn't until pretty recently that we had all the different shaft extensions available and I think that wood dowels were used pretty regularly. Now 5 inches is a lot, but will be minimally noticed on a putter as evident by this discovery. You would lose a good bit of feel. My biggest question is why the shaft looks like it was chewed off by a bear. That is a st
  5. Those Burner 2s are getting up there and you would possibly benefit from something newer. Any of the major manufacturers make a quality product, it just comes down to personal preference. As far as the driver goes, that SLDR is not really old. Only 3 cycles. Don't let the manufacturers and golf magazines fool you about all these supposed driver advantages with every new model. The fact is that as of around 2004 with the rules locking in the head size and COR limits, the drivers do not change much now. That being said, the SLDR was a unique club in the way it was weighted and I believe tha
  6. My guess is that this was done by someone at home who probably didn't know what they were doing and decided to add length by ramming a wood dowel into the shaft. Is it the best way to do this, no. But does it work to add length, yes.
  7. No real difference between the two. If they are both new then the grooves are good. The Titleist online fitting tool is pretty good. These are the basic rules on the bounce/grind stuff. Higher bounce is good for steeper angle of attack (deep divot). Also good for fluffier lies, both in sand and grass as it keeps the wedge from digging down too far. Low bounces are opposite that. Shallow angle of attack with little divot, tight lies, hard fairways, and shallow filled bunkers. Most golfers are better off with more bounce. Grind is important if you are using the wedge with an open face to hi
  8. Second that. Game improvement. There are a lot of brands now that offer a more compact GI iron, Callaway, TaylorMade, Ping, Titleist, etc. They are more expensive but give you a nice combination of forgiveness and classic looks. They are going to have lower lofts and you will definitely hit them further that 18 year old Adams so just be prepared. Don't buy clubs for where you think you will be a year from now. Buy them for now. Good luck.
  9. Having fit many golfers over many years, all I can say is you should never try to fit your swing into a certain club. It should be the club fitting into your swing and tendencies. This is my opinion but if you can't get out on the course and realistically break 80 on any given day, clubs in that 588 category are not what you need regardless of how much you like the look. Clubs with this design are made to hit it low with maximum workability. In other words short and crooked unless you have the consistent swing to use them. You also won't be able to find blades with larger offset numbers. They
  10. Fitting is never a bad idea. Definitely look at graphite. First it will give you more distance with lighter weights. Second it dampens out more vibration which is always good for any sort of golf related pain. More flexible shaft will help close the face at impact if you are losing the ball to the right. Flex usually does little to actually help with distance other than squaring the face easier. It might give you a little more height but hard to say without knowing your swing. The stock graphite shafts in the type of clubs you are looking at (hybrid sets) should all have the launch charac
  11. It's old. Pretty sure it is from mid/late 90s based on that design. Under $10.
  12. These two are probably going to be pretty similar. The stock Alta is high launch, counterbalanced, not sure of the torque but would guess it's around 4.3. Aldila NVS is an older shaft but also higher launch with similar torque (assuming you are comparing similar weights). Only real difference I think would be the counterbalancing in the Alta, so swing weights might be different (again assuming you are comparing similar weights).
  13. The heads won't be much different. Doubt if you would even see 5 yards just comparing the heads. Biggest difference is the shafts. That Speeder is 80 grams, low torque, low launch. The two Mitsus are both going to launch higher. Usually the lighter will launch higher, if everything else is equal. Of the three, the Tensei probably splits the difference between the other two. All this is to say that the 818 is only going to be "better" if that shaft fits your swing better.
  14. I can't speak specifically about cutting down a longer counterbalanced putter but I have used a Heavy Putter which was a thing about 13 years ago. Basically a very heavy head and shaft, face balanced putter. I also have modified several putters with weight plugs, tungsten powder, and lead tape. What I would say about all of them was I liked them much more on slower greens then faster. Also liked them more on shorter putts (inside 10 feet). That being said, I always end up going back to a more traditional weighting.
  15. Does it have the shaft band still? That could help.
  16. The OEMs are always looking for a way to get more distance out of clubs, and beyond flexing face technology, the other option is going lighter. Lighter shafts should give more distance but it will depend on the golfer. There are cases where that heavier S300 gives more distance but that assumes you possess the power to use it. I would say most golfers will be best fit in something in the 110-115g weight. I realize this is a generalization but runs pretty true in my experience. Everything else being equal the heavier shaft should offer more consistency, and launch lower with lower spin. This of
  17. I would recommend against the blades. More forgiving is always better, and there is nothing forgiving in those 18s. If you are not hitting the center of the club, you will see significant distance and direction loss. At the very least I would look at the cavity version of the 18s if you are set on going that direction. But again they will offer minimal help. Those pure blades are meant for low single digit handicappers and stronger golfers looking to control trajectory and work the ball.
  18. Take your driver with you and hit it against some current stuff on a launch monitor. See what the differences are (ball speed, launch angle, spin). It could be the shaft but hard to say without knowing the specs on each shaft you reference. Doesn't sound like you ever really hit the Ping well so it probably makes sense to look to other brands. Other thought, when they cut down the Ping did they add weight to the head. That inch you cut off would drop the swing weight at least 5 points. Might want to check the swing weight and see if it's too light. I think the standard R7 came in at D2.
  19. That's not true at all. Even within the confines of CoR and size limits, there are different ways to design a driver to perform differently. Forgiveness and minimizing ball speed loss on off-center hits is a huge part of club design. Placement of the CoG will change the characteristics of the club. Even within a single lineup, companies can put out different heads aimed towards different types of golfers. I should not have said no difference, I agree with that much. I should have said almost meaningless difference. Lets look at a couple numbers. In the USGA / R&A 2017 distance re
  20. Distance is primarily a factor of ball speed. And ball speed is a result of club head speed and solid impact (ie Smash Factor). Spin rate and launch angle will influence it, but not nearly as much as speed. The only way the manufacturers are going to get you any more speed is by making the club lighter and or longer. The industry will continue to put out new equipment but the driver itself is basically no different since they maxed out COR and head size. Everything now is just bells, whistles, and paint colors. Not to mention that the huge differences they advertise requires tour level s
  21. Would try some Mizuno JPX, if you want great feeling, forged players clubs, that stop short of pure blades. I have always preferred Mizuno feel to that of Titleist, but it's all personal. I would say however that having worked in the business for many years and having fit many golfers of all skills, nobody ever returns clubs with the complaint that they are too easy to hit. Also I wouldn't be so concerned about cast vs forged. If you like the look and feel, who cares. Most people don't realize that all those Titleist Vokey and Cleveland wedges aren't forged, they're cast.
  22. Totally agree with billchao. Manufacturers were not just down lofting in an attempt to show distance gains. These stronger lofts are not new. Ever since game improvement and super game improvement irons came to market (ie Callaway Big Berthas, etc), lofts have been dropped to counter act more forgiving designs. With improvements in computer design, casting, forging, and multi material composites, the irons launch higher now across the board. Lighter club weights and a better understanding of shaft flex also help. It should also be noted that with the GI irons that are being discussed here
  23. Last piece of advise. Go do a launch monitor, but make sure it's outdoor on real grass. Fitting wedges off indoor mats is worthless or close to it. Turf interaction is so important with all wedges but most of all with higher lofts.
  24. I think those 900s come with Nippon 105 stock but would assume the DGs would be a stock option also. That being said you might want to look at a sub 130 gram shaft option if you are thinking about going down a flex. DG also comes in lighter options (120 and 105) along with AMT options which are good if you need long iron launch help, if you want to stay with True Temper. I know Mizuno is about to release the update to those 900s so you can probably get better prices now and still get the full custom fitting.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...