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Adam C

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Everything posted by Adam C

  1. I could take an educated guess and say .355 but honestly I would just pull one of the heads and check it yourself to be sure.
  2. Basically, your driver has a certain balance of weight measured by SW (swing weight). Most drivers usually sit between D2 and D6. When you cut down a driver you lose head weight (actually the balance of weight changes) and the SW goes down. People will talk about losing the feel of the head. If you swing your driver upside-down holding by the head and swinging the grip end you will feel what I am talking about. How a club feels has a lot to do with the SW so if you like how your driver feels now, you may want to try to match the cut down club to that feel by adding weight back. However people are all different and some people will like a heavier or lighter feel. That is why you might try just gripping down to 44 inches first because the feel will be pretty similar as I showed above to cutting it down. If you like the gripped down weight feel, then if you decide to cut it, you won't have to bother adding weight back.
  3. I have always found that within a brand, irons for a given player type (ie game improvement, super game improvement, low handicapper) will be pretty similar to one another regardless of model year. The same style of Taylormade irons will be pretty similar regardless of whether they are 1 year old or 5 years old. Also the stock shafts don't change much from year to year so unless you are looking at some steel and some graphite or the shafts aren't the stock option or length, I wouldn't be too concerned. Pick the head you like the look of with the price you can be happy with. Good luck.
  4. Yes but I am not sure to what degree exactly. It will depend on how much weight you add back. The general rule is cutting a 1/2 inch drops the SW by 3 points. It's actually a bit less than that with a driver but. The Pro Orange is also counter balanced to a good amount so it may be even less, maybe 1 1/2 or 2 SW points per 1/2 inch. The cutting down will make the shaft feel a bit stiffer, also depending on where you are starting from with length. However this will be negated when you add weight back into the head to get your SW back to where you want it. You might want to start out by simply gripping down the shaft to that 44 inch length you want, to get an idea of the feel. It will be similar in SW feel to if you actually cut the shaft and regripped. I did a video about this if you want to see. From there, it's just a matter of putting weight back into the head with lead tape, Hotmelt, etc.
  5. So I posted a question on here yesterday basically asking about putting .580 grips on .600 shafts. Could it be done and what would the result be. I want to apologize up front because I admit I was baiting everyone with that post, however I really just wanted to see if everyone else had thought the same way I did concerning this topic. I got a response and a fair number of views confirming what I always had been told and believed. Anyone on here who regrips clubs either professionally or for themselves, I would invite to check out this video I just put on youtube. Would love to here what you guys think.
  6. Hi Everyone. Question, I have some grips I like that are only available in .580 diameter but I am pretty sure the shafts of my irons are .600 from what I have read. Can I put these grips on these shafts with the size issue, and is there anything I should be aware of when I do? Thanks for any help.
  7. Two questions you have to answer. Do you have issues squaring the face at impact and do you need more height. Those are the two things that the softer shaft can help with. Other than that and a few grams of weight, there is no real difference. The hard step will basically split the difference but retain the lighter weight.
  8. Most popular grip on tour and in golf in general is still the plain old Golf Pride Tour Velvet. Every company makes some version of it.
  9. I would look at True Temper AMTs. They have different versions based on launch desired but it basically does what you are wanting. Lighter, easier to launch longer iron shafts, and heavier shorter iron shafts. I might look at the black which are lighter through the set than DG S300s. Most people are probably better suited into a 105-120 gram shaft anyway.
  10. That may be the coolest sounding putter ever made. Never loved the reverse offset but the sound was great.
  11. I recently posted a video about this idea of cutting down vs. choking down on youtube. Basically showed the difference in weights, both static and SW. Only other issue to be concerned with is the grip diameter being smaller when gripping down the shaft.
  12. The 2KXV is going to feel similar to the old NV if you ever hit that shaft. Like Typhoon92 said, the Yellow is counterbalanced and that can change the feel, leading to changes in your swing transition, release point, etc. The 2KXV shouldn't give you any surprises and it's a really solid shaft. I would definitely hit the Yellow however before going that direction so you know what it's about.
  13. Undoubtedly less than you are hoping for. Very few golf clubs truly hold value unless it has a specific connection to someone of note. Scotty Cameron putters probably hold value better than anything else.
  14. That looks like a putter should look. Simple, clean lines. Not flashing neon colors or weird USS Enterprise (Star Trek) shaped head. A simple putter allows you to just focus on the line and the speed.
  15. There are a bunch of ideas in this thread that I think need a bit of clarification. As others have said, lead tape is removable and not permanent. But beyond this, it is in fact reusable at least once or twice as long as it's not over handled and stuck onto clean, dry surfaces. I have never seen lead tape fall off a club. That really doesn't happen. The only way I could see that ever happening is either being affixed to a wet or dirty surface or if you try and put it on the sole of the club where it could be ripped off during turf interaction. If you are adamently against lead tape, you can also buy rubber tungsten weight stickers that are reusable. I saw them on Golfworks but you could also find them elsewhere I am sure. Let me be the first to dissuade you from using the tungsten powder in the shaft. This sounds good in theory but you will end up drastically changing the feel of your clubs. Think pounding on a bag of wet sand with a sledge hammer. Finally, you can drastically change the SW and the MOI when changing these weights in the head or the shaft (depending on weight location). Tip weights and tungsten powder will alter both of these. The swing weight change will be less so than a head weight change of the same weight, but can still be substantial.
  16. Technically the swing weight will be fractionally lighter with extensions vs. one solid shaft of same length assuming you use the same material for the extension and not a lighter one. That being said, I don't think you will have any issues with simple 1/2 inch extensions. Would probably do that first.
  17. Totally agree with the acetone. Just some on a q tip will take most paint off if it's only a small amount. If it's more, then a shop towel will work. This way you don't damage the finish unless you really rub the acetone with a more abrasive towel. Wouldn't do wire or sand unless last resort because you will probably be refinishing the club at the end of that process.
  18. MacGregor has been in the golf business for decades, although I don't know who owns the brand at this point. Would be surprised if it was not a subsidiary of some other sporting company. Wilson of course is a well know brand. Not sure who Fazer is. That being said, probably not a big difference between any of them. Would just look at the price and set make up (what clubs are in the set up) and pick from those two criteria.
  19. Going to go against some people on here, but unless you are under 5ft8 or over 6ft2, I say do the boxed set. You are wasting everyones time especially your own by trying to fit an inconsistent swing. You would need at least a consistent miss before you look at fitting. While I agree that a good used set is better quality than what comes in the boxed set, you are going to have a difficult time putting together a full decent set with bag for close to the price of the box. Get the boxed set, work with it for a while and then you can start switching out pieces as your swing comes together and you figure out what works for your swing. Good luck.
  20. Like you said for $75 you can't go very wrong as long as they are the right length.
  21. Just to be sure what I am looking at here. That's a graphite shaft underneath correct? Honestly I would just cut it at the top and call it a day. The problem is you are very likely going to damage the existing shaft with whatever method you use if you haven't already. Using the torch on it I would strongly discourage as it can and will damage the shaft. Any sort of twisting motion again can damage the shaft. With this type of home repair there is no telling what was done, or what type of glue was used. Either cut it or dump the whole thing and reshaft. Sorry I don't have better options.
  22. I think either 3 or 4 inches will be fine for the extension. Again I wouldn't do it on a 4 iron but I have put 3 inches on a putter just straight in for a guy and never heard of any issue with it. And that was with a standard grip, not counterbalanced. Just do your epoxy correctly and I wouldn't sweat 4 inches if you want it.
  23. If you have another longer putter and it feels more comfortable than by all means add the inch. Does the longer putter also sit toe down? After you make all the changes on the butt end, you can always bend the head upright. As far as the extra length ( 3 inches) for the grip, don't worry, just epoxy the extension in and you should be good. I would never do it on any other club, but with a putter and specifically with a counter balanced one where you aren't even gripping the back end of the grip usually, no problem.
  24. This is the last sentence from the original post. Lie angle up or toe hang (ie angle down). Otherwise the sentence does not make sense as they address two different questions. If he is asking about toe hang as it relates to lie angle then that is a whole different can of worms and I have no idea. Would need some engineers input.
  25. As we are both now just making general statements in an attempt to address a specific case, it probably makes sense to end this unless we could see some video or images of OP's setup position.
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