Jump to content

Adam C

Established Member
  • Content Count

    276
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Adam C

  1. Whatever gets the ball in the hole. I have 3 putters right now. Two Scottys and a TaylorMade Rossa with some substantial modifications for weighting. I always default to the Scotty Studio Stainless because I love the look behind the ball and the feel is good. Also have a Scotty Am Classic Bullseye which I love but don't use as much even though it's my favorite to putt with. I can justify the price on a Scotty however because at the end of the day, a traditional shaped Scotty in good condition holds it's value better than any other club in golf without a doubt.
  2. I know how some people feel about static fitting measurements and would probably recommend an extensive and expensive full fitting but I still believe that a simple lie board check will tell you if the irons need an adjustment in lie angle. Start there before you go trying to bend clubs that may or may not bend.
  3. Okay, I am pretty sure that can't be true and he just doesn't know. It does prove we shouldn't care.
  4. 58 will be more forgiving than the 60. I doubt you will ever get into a situation where you are thinking, "Man, I wish I had 2 more degrees to pull this shot off".
  5. They charge $30 per club??? Wow. I don't think I appreciated how much of a snake oil salesman they are.
  6. Agree with the above comments about just let the club maker assemble and do all the trimming. Always want to butt trim after you epoxy. Not sure about that EOD and if that is taking a final grip on measurement or not. Hard to say for sure. Looks like they fitted you at 1/2 inch under standard. And the hybrid at 3/4 under standard. A 1/4 inch one way or the other won't change much in the end but I would either check with them or just get the club maker to take a quick measurement. I am more surprised about how they recommend Pureing everything on that sheet! Those guys are really trying to nickel and dime you. Those Aerotechs are great shafts and don't need it, nor does the Fuji hybrid shaft.
  7. I am just not sure why you want to do this. The counterbalanced putters like this are designed this way on purpose. You are going to all this trouble to basically make the putter back into a traditional putter. Unless you already own it, why not just look for a traditional 35 inch putter. Sounds like you prefer a bit more head weight, so find a heavier one or put a little lead tape on the head of one you like.
  8. It's actually the opposite. Long putter heads are much heavier than the standard version. They have to be when you ad all that extra shaft weight on the back end. Usually 100 grams heavier give or take. As far as the length goes you know many of those counter balanced putters are made longer on purpose with the idea being that you grip down in the middle of the grip not on the end like a traditional putter. If it's that kind of design (which it sounds like), then gripping down will also flatten it out and bring your ball position back to neutral below your eyes.
  9. Not sure how that is different from what I said but the point was length increases lie angle.
  10. No. This is wrong. Lengthening the club increases the lie angle. It's about 1 degree for every 1/2 inch of length.
  11. Yes. It does add some weight but you can get the results of improved sound with a small amount that will barely change the SW. The sound is in fact a major reason for doing this process. Some people just do it for sound, some do it for weight and sound, but it's always a factor. Otherwise pros would just be lead taping the heads.
  12. Just a quick fyi for people complaining about the sound/feel of a particular driver such as the Taylormades. This is an easy fix with a little Hotmelt. Puts a little more weight in the head and dampens out the vibration providing more of that thud people seem to prefer. Most tour guys have done this to their Taylormade drivers which is why they sound different from one bought off the rack. It's a simple fix that shouldn't cost you more than $10-$20 with a good club maker.
  13. I have to say your swing overall looks really solid. I have been in and around the golf business long enough to know that most people tell you fish stories when it come to handicap and how far they hit the ball. Your swing I have no doubts would keep you in the 80s and were it not for consistency issues probably lower. I think a couple small changes could get you into the 70s. Here are two small tips that should help with the flip at the bottom. It's not a cast fyi since you asked. Casting refers to initiating the down swing at the wrist. 1st. You need to get your hands more forward. Right now your club is perpendicular with the ground. What you want for consistency is more of a straight line running down your left arm continuing down the shaft. This will help with the flip. Just like at impact, you want your hands in front of the club head. You may need to strengthen your left hand grip slightly (ie be able to see one additional knuckle when you look down). This can also help with the flip motion. 2nd. When you practice next time and honestly for the next few times, only work on half swing pitching motions. Through the whole movement keep your hands in front of the club head. Never let the club head pass your hands. If done right the club face should be pointing at the sky at the end of the swing. Don't go farther then half swings and just really be aware of the feeling of the hands staying in front of the club head. This should also really help your pitching and chipping as I would guess the flip motion shows up there also to a lesser extent and leads to some fat and thin shots.
  14. Not sure of your skill level but a 60 is difficult to hit well because of all that loft. It requires a longer swing which equals more chance of mistakes. I don't think the grind is an issue as much with the current LW assuming you hit the SW flush. Get the right bounce for your swing and playing conditions and go from there. Steep attack or more lush turf benefits from higher bounce. Shallow attack or tighter lies benefit from lower bounce. The grind is more important if you are adjusting the face angle (ie open face flop shots etc.) However you do lose a bit of forgiveness. Most average golfers will be best suited with the standard grind. Remember you can always grind it down after the fact but you can't put material back on.
  15. Tungsten powder is a good idea in theory, but never works out well in practice. Every time I used it, which has only been on a few occasions, I go back shortly thereafter and drill it back out. Glad you got it worked out.
  16. It sounds like epoxy that has extended up although 3.5 inches is a long way for the epoxy to squeeze up into the shaft. Unlikely a tip weight because you would be able to see it when you were assembling. My guess based on what you described is possibly tungsten powder that was mixed with epoxy and installed down the shaft. This would make the shaft feel stiffer and deaden the feel as well. Although if this is the case you should eventually be able to drill the powder out. Could also have been a tipped shaft to begin with which is why is plays stiff. Problems with buying used shafts, never know who or how they were installed and treated.
  17. Dynamic Gold shafts have a 2 gram tolerance. The tour issues have a .5 gram tolerance. It's the same shafts from the same manufacturing process, just picking the more consistent weighted ones and grouping them into an 8 shaft set. That is why there is no S200, X200 etc offered in the tour issue.
  18. RocketBladez were released in 2013. The 2.0 I think came out in 2017 or 18. Basically just a rerelease, probably with overrun head stock and sold at a lower $400 compared to all the M series current model stuff. Companies will often do this with older equipment, new paint job, slightly different shaft and grip, and sell it as their base level.
  19. You will definitely hit it better. No doubt. Anyone who tells you differently is just wrong. It is simple physics and basic golf 101. Try writing your name with a pencil held at the tip, then try again holding it back in the middle. See which gives you the better result. Same deal with your driver. Don't have any trepidation, you are on the right track.
  20. Aldila has updated the NV in a couple versions recently utilizing some of the new materials that are available. If you like the old green NV I would look at the 2KVX NV. I have seen some measurements and the quality of these shafts looks outstanding especially for a shaft under $150.
  21. I realize that I can't use a blanket statement on the accuracy of a 3 wood vs a driver for all amateurs. However for what we are referring to in this thread I think it holds water. First, we are talking about off the tee so both clubs are teed up. Second, the original post already said he hits the 3 better/more consistently. Third, if you just look at the comparison for 3 vs driver in the terms of validity from physics, a 3 wood will always be more accurate for the reasons already discussed. A longer driver shaft is harder to control. Longer and lighter driver = more head spead = less time to get the head in the correct launch position. The other element is loft. Drivers have little and 3 woods have more. More loft = more backspin. More backspin = less side spin = less slice or hook. This is not something that can be debated, these are just facts. In my opinion the reason why some amateurs hit the driver better has nothing to do with it being (easier to hit) and everything to do with practice. Go to any course or driving range and count the number of people practicing with a 3 wood. Especially with higher handicappers. Everyone is hitting the driver. And this carries over to the course. The reason they may not hit the 3 better is because they rarely ever use or practice with it. Everyone wants to hit it as far as possible so the driver gets the majority of any practice time. Spend an equal time practicing with both and see how much difference there really is. 3 wood will be straighter and probably not much shorter especially when averaged out over multiple hits.
  22. Don't take length off the tip of a shaft unless you are trying to stiffen the shaft or change the launch conditions. Butt trimming will have a very small impact on stiffness and should be used to adjust length.
  23. Not sure where you are getting this info from but I strongly disagree and would question the validity of the source. Either way this thread started with a post that included the statement that he hits his 3 wood well and his driver less so. Hence my statements on length and loft.
  24. Okay, I don't think we should ever be using LD competitors as a comparison unless we are specifically talking LD. These men and women are incredibly strong and able to to square up the face even when they swing at high speed. They are also only trying to get one perfect ball in an enormous grid with no penalty for all the errant misses. Longer clubs require more timing to get the face squared up at the right point during the downswing and this usually means a more deliberate motion. I think anyone who plays golf can agree with that statement. The point I was really trying to make is that these modern drivers keep getting longer because it's one of the only ways manufacturers can validate claims about improved distance. The longer the club gets, the harder it is to hit well. This is one of two reasons why you hit your 3 wood better than your driver, or your 8 iron better than your 4 iron. The other of course is loft. So the more you can get your driver to spec out like a 3 wood, the more consistency you will see.
  25. I have to say that those two set ups are actually very similar and I don't think it's surprising at all that you could get these two different recommendations. Fact is that these two set ups are trying to do similar things. The Rogue launches slightly lower than the X, but the stock shaft is designed to launch higher with more spin. The Rogue X launches higher on its own but the upgrade UST shaft provides a lower mid launch comparatively. So in the end the result is going to be very similar in ball flight. As for the stiffness, it could be that you were swinging faster on one day or it could be that the weighting on the X was allowing you to swing faster and play the stiffer shaft. People are constantly over worried about two things with equipment I have noticed; shaft flex and finding the perfect club. Shaft flex in most cases has very little impact going from say R to S. And the fact is shafts are not necessarily consistent one shaft to the next. As far as the right clubs go, everyone is looking for the perfect combination to capture lightning in a bottle but it doesn't exist. Your swing is different day to day, and from the 1st hole to the 18th. So how do you fit for that? You can only get so close. All that being said, this would be my recommendation for what to do. I would do a mixed set between the two with Rogue X in your 4,5,6 or whatever your longer irons might be, and Rogue in the short irons. This way you get the max forgiveness in the longer clubs and a little more consistency in the shorter ones. As far as the shaft goes, I can't speak for the consistency of the stock Aldila Synergy shaft I am assuming you are referencing, but the UST Recoil I would bet will be more consistent in radial quality (roundness) and from shaft to shaft in the set. Go with R flex because that's probably where your swing will be later in the round. Even most PGA guys are now mixing sets to take advantage of the technology in each club. Very often will have 3 different sets making up a 3-PW. Hope this helps. Good Luck!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...