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Adam C

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Everything posted by Adam C

  1. Why not switch out a 4 with one of the wedges when you know you are playing a course that demands it. Assuming you feel that you would gain more with that 4 vs. the least used wedge you would pull out. At home, just bench the 4 and go back to your current setup.
  2. I wasn't trying to discount lie angle. It is very important. I was just basing my opinions off of the information at hand. OP did not mention anything about changes in direction, only in distance, which is why I would lean towards shaft weight as the determining factor more so than the lie angle simply based on the info at hand. The reason JD knew that the lies were off was because he could look up and see the ball not traveling through the correct launch window. Now he knew this because he is a professional golfer who has hit tens of thousands of balls and knows what his launch should look like. However the distance would not change in this example, only direction.
  3. Stock X12s would have come in at D2. Maybe they are short. Maybe you just need to spend some time with them. What shafts were in the Pings after you reshafted?
  4. Two options or a combination of the two. First option- you hit the heavier shaft better. It fits your swing and allows for better tempo and timing thus better contact. Also Pings are always light on the SW scale. C7 is really light and could easily lead to inconsistency. Second option- Lie angle could have some influence but most likely it is small at best and would be more directional than contact influencing. Simple way to check some of this is get some impact stickers, foot spray, masking tape, etc, and see where you are making contact on the face of each. My guess is you will see a much more consistent pattern with the steel shaft ISI, and more all over the face with the G5.
  5. Just get the standard mens chipper, stock everything. Don't know that there really is much difference brand to brand. At 5'10 you are right in the wheel house of what is considered mens standard length. The shafts on all chippers I have ever seen are steel and uniflex so that won't be an issue either. Weight should not be a problem as you swing the club like a putter and never swing in farther back then 18 inches give or take. I would recommend the chipper be similar length to your putter. If it's close to that, then you are good.
  6. Don't know the head specs but the shafts are basically as heavy as you can get. Up to 132grams. So pretty big change from 105 KBSs.
  7. I have one of the original model CBXs, 58 bent to 59. It was a gift and when I received it, I was planning on getting rid of it, as I like smaller blade style wedges. However I took it out to the range and played around with it on the short game area and kind of fell in love with it. It is my go to "get out of the s--t" club around the greens. In a divot, hard pan, deep grass, I can just swing it and know that it will end up on the green with a chance at saving par. The worse the lie, the better it performs for me.
  8. It's the same head, leftover stock. They tweak the paint color and sell them basically as closeout. May have a different shaft from original but will be similar in specs.
  9. Here, I go over how to properly measure a golf club. It's at the 3:50 mark.
  10. Going lighter in the shaft will not necessarily make the swing weight increase. In fact, in most cases it will drop the swing weight even more compared to the Vokeys. The amount varies by the balance point and weight of the shaft. How much heavier are the wedges? In general you will find a slope in SW progression whereby the wedges are the heaviest. You could try some lead tape if it's just a small change you are looking for, although many would argue you are more tricking the swing weight scale than actually changing the weight distribution. Other option would be to bore out some weight ports in the back of the Vokeys or down the hosel further. That's a big pain in the a-- though. Could also just look for some lighter head stock. Titleist will have some that they use for over length club builds. Unfortunately it's always easier to add weight then take it back.
  11. If you don't want to add any swing weight you can run the lead tape strips down the back of the shaft. This allows you to create a heavier shaft than you could ever buy. Just start it an inch or so below the grip and run it down the shaft.
  12. The theoretical answer would be yes, but the practical answer is no or at least not enough to probably be measurable. In most cases the speed you lose would counter the E=MC squared you were hoping to take advantage of. As far as heavier shaft goes, you are already at the top of the weight chart. 130g x100. You could get maybe 3 more grams going into X7 or a 7.0 PX, but 3 grams in the shaft is not worth chasing after. As far as the left miss, heavier might help, but it just as well might make it worse. Depends how you react to the weight. Stiffer shaft can also help against left miss but again depends on the golfer and what causes that miss. If you really want to mess around with weight, buy some lead tape and put that on the back of the head, and see how you react to it. Will be far more influential than a shaft change.
  13. Just fyi, the difference between S300 and 400 is about 2-3 grams. That weight is further stretched out over the length of the shaft. You will not see a difference between them while playing them. S200 and S400 exist because some DGs fall outside of the manufacturing tolerances, hence they are sold as 200 and 400. I will tell you that if you are around 110 driver speed, then sub 100 shafts probably aren't necessary or helping you. You could look at the 130g stuff (DGs, PX, Nippon Modus3 130, etc), but most people are best suited in that 105-115g range.
  14. If you make putts with it then it's priceless. However if you were hoping to retire off the auction proceeds from it, sorry. Maybe you could get $10 for it on a good day. Nothing in the pictures show me anything that indicates any value to it; brand, material, or design. Also Patent Pending (aka Provisional Patent) and Utility Patent (actual legal patent) are very different things. Every tv golf infomercial product has or at least claims to have a Provisional Patent, which is by itself quite meaningless.
  15. That bore should be over an inch. If not, you are going to have to drill out the residue. Technically 3/4 inch is enough area to get a good bond but I would rather have the full amount if possible. Almost all Callaway use a collared ferrule so that will help with the looseness some. Many of the Callaways run loose. You can use shafting beads but they really are not meant to fill substantial gaps. Should only be using around 5% beads by volume of epoxy. I often resort to a brass shim to get everything nice and snug. Between cleaning out the hosel and using the collared ferrule, you should have no issue covering the prepped shaft area.
  16. Both should launch about the same but the weight and the overall stiffness in the Grafalloy should promote lower more right flight if we compare them. Again, this is only theory because how your body reacts to the shaft could cause a different result from what "should" happen. If you are looking for more height, you are always better off lofting up the head. Loft change is a guarantee of launch change, shaft profile will be small if any.
  17. Not sure what better ball flight means? Are you wanting change in launch height, direction? If I am comparing these two shafts on paper, I would say that they would launch at similar height. The Fuji is 10 grams lighter which could mean more height out of it vs. the Grafalloy though. Grafalloy probably plays a little stiffer also both because of weight and design. Might mean the Grafalloy won't help close the face up as much and could result in losing the ball right. Of course these are all on paper, what a shaft should do and what it does can be complete opposite depending on the hands swinging it.
  18. This falls into that category of club fitter shenanigans. Those heads are solid, I've no issue with them. However, from there we go off the rails big time. As you have pointed out, ACCRA shafts are not a option, either stock or upgrade for the C300. I am sure that's just a coincidence! O wait, it's not. This is right out of the Club Champion style playbook. They know that if they recommend a stock offering from an OEM, then you are likely to just order direct from that OEM. However, if they convince you that you will be better suited in some random aftermarket brand (the favorites right now seem to be ACCRA and Oban), that you can't order from the OEM, you are more likely to order from them. Notice again that the grip recommendation is also not an option from Wilson. Funny how that works, isn't it. Is that ACCRA shaft a good shaft? I am sure it is. I haven't used it but I am sure it's fine. Is it better or better for your son than any number of other shafts, hard NO. Shafts have a lot of specs that fitters love to toss around, but the only ones that really matter for 99% of golfers are total weight, balance point, and radial quality. Find another shaft with the same weight, balance, and radial (build) quality, you will most likely be in good shape. Bend profile can make very small changes in ball flight, torque is of little value. All this is to say that the Fuji or UST options will be every bit as good. I would however also ask if graphite is even necessary? 185 yrd 6 iron doesn't need super light weight graphite unless you have an issue with joints, bones, etc and need the dampening effects. Assuming 16 year old probably does not. Hope this helps. I don't like to bad mouth people I don't know, but I am skeptical about this fitter from what I have read here.
  19. FYI, you're not. You're wanting to trade for a set of iron shafts with .355 taper tips.
  20. Modus 105 and DG 105 will be the closest. Weight is about the same as is the flight.
  21. Equipment has come so far today that you can get graphite as heavy and stiff as any steel, and likewise steel as light and flexible as many graphites. I would suggest you go somewhere you can try a few different shafts, both material and weight. Try a 95g steel shaft, an 80 gram graphite, a 60 gram graphite and see how they feel and what kind of distance you get. Don't just assume that the lightest shaft will give you the best distance however, as different swings can react differently to weight. Also remember there are steel shaft options with dampeners in them to cut vibration. Might want to at least check those out. True Temper makes one called the Elevate that is light and dampens and I've seen good reviews of. For graphite the popular ones right now are UST Recoil, PX Catalyst, and Aerotech Steelfiber. All these are high quality.
  22. I am not going to get into the many reasons I don't like Club Champion, but will instead just remind you of this. As billchao states, you don't have to buy the club they suggest. You pay for the fitting. Whether you buy what they recommend is up to you as is whether you buy it from them. I will say they always seem to lean towards shafts that are super expensive and or unavailable as either stock or upgrade options from OEMs. I am sure that is just coincidence! Will let you in on another little secret. You can very easily take those shaft specs and find a different shaft with the same weight, balance point, profile and get the same results out of it and only have to maybe pay $100 shaft upgrade charge or maybe none depending on the stock options. Final word. Go to Club Champion if you want to try all the different combinations of heads and shafts but know what you're looking for going into it, and put little stock in what they tell you. And don't buy the clubs from them unless you are trying to just burn money.
  23. There is no good way to fix that sort of damage. Just keep it as is. Over time, it will become less and less visible as the sole wears.
  24. If the person you bought from is a Titleist rep, I would assume the club should be legit.
  25. Can't say I have ever seen one. Being that golf club values really only go in one direction I don't know how necessary or useful it would be.
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