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Adam C

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Everything posted by Adam C

  1. They do actually change loft. I am guessing you are referring to Tom Wishon where he talks about this, but unfortunately he has skin in the game and is a bit biased in my opinion. The hosel adapters change the hosel angle into the ball, tilting it back (grip away from the target) to decrease the loft and tilting it towards the target to increase the loft. Now it is true when this happens, it influences the face angle. Angling the shaft back to drop the loft will cause the head to fall open when set squarely and do the opposite when angled forward. Now it does become a matter of semantics in how we describe what this new club is, because the head obviously has not physically changed, so that if you sole it on the ground, and disregard the shaft, it has not changed in loft. This is Tom Wishon's argument. However I would argue that golfers will do two things consistently when setting up to hit the driver. First, they will have the club extending down at a certain angle or shaft lean. I don't know of any golfer who changes this based on hosel changes. It doesn't happen. If you like your setup with 2 degrees of forward shaft lean, that is what you will do. Likewise, the golfer will manually adjust any face angle bias to what they prefer. I have not seen many golfers set up with a face angle other than square to the target. I realize there are a few who may close it to fight a slice or open for a hook, but most will just try and aim it down the target line. When that is done, loft adjustments from the hosel sleeve are realized and do influence launch.
  2. How were your grips? Were your grips okay or were they FUBAR like everything else? Sounds like they did everything to your clubs short of bringing in a shaman to banish the evil spirits. Let me start out by saying this, if you go to a teaching pro and say you're hitting it badly, they are going to work on your swing. If you go to a club fitter, with the exact same problem, they are going to work on your equipment. First, the shafts. I know that it can be disheartening to hear that there's no standard for flex but the reason for that is not to dupe the consumer, it's simply the number of variables that can influence flex. It's nice to hear that they still use their old frequency machine where you went (the thing that tells the stiffness of the shaft when they lock it in a vice and twang it). Unfortunately, it's really useless in these capacities. I have a frequency machine, but I only use it as a way to measure how consistent a shaft is, aka radial quality. If you care you can find my use for it on Youtube at the Mobile Clubmaker. Beyond that, not much use to it. A club fitter will tell you that a shaft is incredibly important. It's a rocket engine in their minds. That's just not true. The goal of a shaft is to return the club head to the back of the ball in the position you put it in. It's on you. A shaft can only influence two things. Launch height and direction, but only left direction (for RH golfers and vice versa for LH). A more flexible shaft can allow the club head to flex forward and more closed, meaning higher, more left launch. But this is only the case for certain golfers who load the shaft at the appropriate time. For golfers with an early release, it doesn't matter. The shaft has already flexed and returned to neutral before you get to the ball. All this is to say, if you have issues hitting it high enough or not closing the face enough at impact, a shaft can help you but that's all it can do. What you should focus on with shafts in my opinion is in this order. 1. Weight- by far the most important spec on a shaft, as it can influence the swing to the greatest extent. 2. Consistency- does the shaft flex consistently around it's circumference. Older shafts, especially graphite could be very inconsistent. Modern carbon fiber shafts are much better but can still be inconsistent, steel for the most part is very consistent. 3. Balance point- only an issue with carbon fiber. Influences swing weight, how the club feels and therefore can influence the swing. 4. Bend profile- used to be called kick point. Refers to how and where the shaft bends which can influence the launch height and direction we already discussed. 5. Price- depending on the golfer this can be higher up the list. 6. Torque, Paint color- torque don't worry about, some people like to talk about it, but it's not worth mentioning here. After all these, you can pick the flex that works for your swing. But remember, the shaft's flex is directly related to the head weight and the length. A heavier head or longer shaft will make the shaft more flexible. As for weight and lofts. Weights can be off from iron to iron. Depending who builds them or the brand, there can be discrepancies. Will it be enough for you to notice? Depends on the person and the amount. Did you notice the weight issues from your 845s. Assuming they were 845? Lofts can also be off either right from the factory or for extended use. Never a bad idea to have your lofts and lie angles checked every so often. As for your driver loft, lie, and face angle issues. I would be skeptical about that measurement of 12 or 13 degrees loft at the 9 degree setting. That is way outside of any manufacturing tolerance. I not saying they did this on purpose but I can take any driver and based on how I set it in the machine, or where I measure on the face, I can get huge variations in loft on the same club. The key to measuring a driver is to minimize variables and I just don't know if they did that. If you really want to know if those numbers are correct, I would be happy to measure it for you if you ship it to me. Just pay for shipping both ways. Face angles will change when you alter the loft on an adjustable hosel. Different drivers will also be either closed, open, or square. However this only matters if you play the driver from this position and don't manually adjust your setup at address. I can take a open faced driver, close the face at setup and hit hooks with it and like wise with a closed face driver. Lie angle will also change on the driver when adjusting it, however this is of little importance with a low lofted club like a driver. Sorry this response really got long. Basic summation, some of what they addressed was correct/important, some of it not. If you have more questions let me know. I realize I kind of went all over the place here.
  3. Graphite Design still makes the YS series, just updated with more modern materials. That's probably not a bad starting point. From memory the old YS-6 was 65g, mid bend, 3.7 torque, and a bit soft compared with the other stock Titleist offerings. I can list off a number of shafts that could work and be similar if you want to go in a different direction from the YS, would just need to know a price point.
  4. The head weight is inconsequential since you're only talking about 1g differences. I have heard that the G410 is very forgiving so that could play a big part in it. The other big part is the 10g heavier shaft you use with it. Weight, in my experience is the most important spec in a shaft, and will have the biggest influence on your game.
  5. You might just want to go and do a fitting before and see what shaft comes out on top. Then you can either go with whatever shaft works "best" if it's aftermarket or find the most similar to it from the stock options as a more economical option.
  6. They will, most likely will charge you $30-$40 for the adapter which is expensive but pretty much all the adapters are needlessly expensive no matter where you buy them. I would stay away from the generic adapters you might see on eBay or Amazon. Hear a lot of issues with them.
  7. Really depends on who is selling it. OEMs don't usually like to sell the heads by themselves, so I can't say how it will come. If you bought it from Ping they would be selling the whole club (head, adapter, and shaft). At best you might be able to get it without the grip on. Again you have to be careful who you buy from, but you can find every combination on eBay, heads with adapter included or not, shafts with adapters, pre cut and gripped, or just raw shafts. Did I answer your question?
  8. Yes, bend profile is looking at the same thing as what used to be called kick point. They don't like to use that term anymore but it's the same. And again I wouldn't get too fixated on it. At best it can make small differences in your ball launch and in many cases it won't make any. Most important is weight bar none in my opinion. Second is shaft consistency, and this leads into your second question about PUREing. This I have to say is where some of these companies take any credibility they might have and chuck it out the window. Anyone who suggests that your golf shafts need to be PUREd is just taking your money. I can get into a lot of detail about why PUREing or FLOing or spining is useless but for simplicity lets just say it's a scam. My rule and I think the rule of any good, honest club builder is that if you have a shaft that needs PUREing, it should be in your garden, staking tomato plants, not in your golf club. Now I know that a lot of these companies up sell it and while I think it's disgusting, I don't think you should discount them all together. They can provide good information and help narrow down your search. Just remember, there is no perfect club or combination. It's just not like that. And also if they mention PUREing, just say no thanks.
  9. When it comes to eBay it's the wild west. You just have to read the description really closely and hope that you're not buying a fake. Usually sellers will make it pretty obvious whether the hosel adapter is included and of course you can alway send them a question about it.
  10. Remember, none of these fitting/building businesses force you to buy anything. You can take the specs and recommendations and shop them around. Don't worry about the shafts as far as the exotics go. Most important aspect of the shaft is weight, second is consistency, third is balance point, and then bend profile. Weight is easy to match up with other products. Consistency is rarely an issue these days and a complete non issue if you are going with steel shafts. Again if you're going with steel then balance is not something to worry about. That just leaves bend profile and again that is simple to match to other products that don't break the bank.
  11. Someone might have to help on this. From what I understand the S400 was the tour issue initial offering for this shaft. Also had an X100 flex. Then later came the standard R300, S300, and X100. Now I have no idea what or if there is any difference between these two X100 versions. If it's like the 130g version then maybe the S400 just has the same tighter tolerances as the Tour Issue DG130. Again doing some guessing here. According to TT, if you played the 130 S400, the 120 S400 is comparable.
  12. Hard for me to say. As you said, your driver actually ended up going further after cut down. Lucky for you, the answer is super simple to figure out. Just take your irons out and grip down a 1/2 inch and hit some balls. You could also try a full inch and see if there's any difference. Besides the grip feeling slightly smaller, everything else will perform and feel about the same whether you grip down or cut down the shafts. At that point, you can decide if you see enough of a difference to warrant cutting them or just keep gripping down.
  13. Those clubs really weren't meant for you. If you can hit a 300 yard drive then you shouldn't be in the Rogue X.
  14. Sounds like you need a lower loft for your swing. 8.5 or 9 degree. Tech differences may also give you some more forgiveness and distance but I think the loft would make a big difference.
  15. I mean $50 would be a pretty cheap experiment to see if you like them. Although 20 year old clubs can quickly become $250 clubs if you need to start replacing shafts and grips etc. I guess if you really don't like the Fusions then maybe, but otherwise might stick with what works. If you do buy them, probably try and negotiate down to $30, that seems like a better price in my opinion.
  16. Raw shafts are 46 inches 99% of the time. A few come raw 47 inch. If you buy a fairway wood shaft they are usually around 43 inches raw. In any case, you have to cut them down unless you are looking to play a 47 1/2 inch driver.
  17. Biggest difference I see with these shafts is the balance point, assuming the weights are the same you are looking at. The Black will hit it lower in theory than the Yellow or Smoke depending on the golfer. The swing weights will change depending on what shaft you use unless TM re weights the head after assembly. The Black is the heaviest in the tip section, the Yellow the heaviest in the butt section, and the smoke somewhere in the middle. Not sure how that compares to the Ping shaft however.
  18. You can buy some shafts that are pre cut, adaptered, and gripped different places including eBay. I would be very careful though with anything like that from eBay. However that does not change the issue of rebalancing the club, you will still have to add weight to the head if you are trying to get back to a certain swing weight. The simplest way would still be to just cut down your current shaft and regrip, then lead tape it to get it back to weight. If you are wanting a new shaft then I would either buy it raw and have someone do the reshaft, or some retailers will do the prep work and install the adapter, cut to length and grip for you. Again eBay is more of a gamble unless you know your seller.
  19. That is my current driver. I like the blue head although I know it's not everyones cup of tea. Paired with a Aldila Tour Blue 75, cut down a bit and hotmelted back to weight. Mizuno has had plenty of great drivers that never got the respect they deserved. The new 190 is probably the first that really gets the recognition in a long time.
  20. Hi Everyone: I just uploaded a new Spec Review for the Callaway Epic Flash driver. Please let me know what you think.
  21. It could effect the trajectory, whereby the stiffer shaft lowers the launch a bit, and on paper that should happen, but the longer shaft can influence this, both in reducing overall stiffness and possibly altering your swing mechanics. The longer shaft might influence your release. I ideally don't like to separate the shaft from the swing in a discussion like this. That's why my best advise is to extend one or two and see what happens.
  22. 1/2 inch will offer little change other than the 3 swing weight points heavier. If you like the shafts you have, just extend them. I might recommend just doing a couple irons first and taking them out to the range to see if you are getting the results you were hoping for before doing the whole set.
  23. Since you have the spare club, the best way to figure out what you're asking is to go ahead and extend it, and hit it against your other 6 iron. I can tell you in theory that you might get more distance, but that doesn't always pan out with longer clubs, as it often leads to more inconsistency. Shaft will flex a bit more if nothing else changed, however if you start removing the lead tape than it will feel stiffer. Trajectory should not really change at least from what the shaft is contributing, but the longer club may influence your swing in such a way as you might see some launch changes. As far as extensions vs. reshafting, my personal rule has always been that up to an inch or so, extensions are fine. If you are going longer than that I personally would look at new shafts. Weight change in one vs. the other is minimal. A few grams more back weighted with the overlap from the extension.
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