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Adam C

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Everything posted by Adam C

  1. I think what you are seeing there is just a quick tack glue to hold the tip weight from falling out before final assembly. Like boogielicious said, use the same epoxy to hold them.
  2. 7g is the standard weight progression assuming you are using standard 1/2 inch length gapping through the set.
  3. I would consider that a classic wedge shaft in specs. Probably in-between the 130 and 125 in terms of feel.
  4. Might also consider the 125. It's the lowest launch of the bunch if that's what you like. The 130 is usually considered the highest launch by most people. It's why Sergio played them for so long.
  5. That one is going to be tricky. Feel like I have a vague recollection of a shaft like that but really not sure. Not sure tipping specs will even be useful on a shaft like that if you are trying to match it up with a modern driver head. The head weights are much lighter now so the tip trimming guide for older stuff goes out the window since they were gauging off a heavier head and shorter play length. My best advise would be to install without tipping and play it an extra inch longer. Grip down to where you plan on playing it and see how it reacts. If it feels too loose, you can go ba
  6. Is there a reason you don't want to just run the 130 through the wedges as well either in the x or drop into s? General rule is get the wedges slightly heavier than the irons or keep them the same. Don't usually see many people go lighter, at least not by choice. If you're worried about the flex, you might want to just look at DG S400s. I know it boring, but there's a reason 95% of tour guys use them. The ascending weight would still match up and they will be a little softer than the 130x for better touch and feel.
  7. Yep. Just a strap hinge from the hardware store epoxied to the end. Slightly cheaper than a specialized club ruler.
  8. If you are doing this with a vise by hand I think the best you can hope for is to get within 1 degree accuracy. That being the case, I would recommend this as you probably already have one.
  9. Just find something around 75g mid trajectory. There is really nothing special or noteworthy about that shaft and honestly even something in the $30 range will be a step up in quality.
  10. I guess if you wanted to be like Rickie these are the clubs you buy. Though based on recent form, not sure that's much of a selling point. These clubs look good from the back but I found the top down view far less attractive. Similar to the Hogans where the hosel look disproportionally thick versus the top line of the blade. Just my opinion.
  11. Hopefully it keeps on working. SW is always personal so whatever the final balance came out to, sounds like it worked.
  12. Since all the new equipment is being released in the next couple weeks, I am sure some people are planning on setting up a fitting. Just finished this video with a few tips you might not have considered before. Hope it offers something new.
  13. Ideally you would want something with more weight change ability. Even pulling the 3.5 all together isn't going to get you much change in SW. I ended up dropping about 8g to get where it felt right in my Epic Flash I used. But if it's all you've got and don't want to spend more on an experiment, then give it a go. I would suggest that you find a shaft as counterbalanced as possible in that case to try and even out the weight.
  14. You don't need a fitting for this and honestly I don't think I would trust a fitter to get you any better off than you can achieve by yourself. I put a youtube link on here a couple months ago to my video about building an extra long driver. An extra long driver is not a one and done deal, even more so than the rest of the bag (which is coincidentally why I don't believe in most modern fitting practices). It's trial and error and making small tweaks to the set up. What I can recommend are a couple things to increase your chance of success. First make sure you have a driver head that you can re
  15. If you haven't watched this video before, I would recommend it for you and your friend. Link at bottom. As far as the answer to your 2 questions, 1) You friend is equally wrong and right. If you are talking about a Taylormade driver, then any change you make to the hosel will increase the lie angle. Doesn't matter if you loft up or down. If you are talking about a Ping, then its the opposite and any change to the hosel will flatten the lie. Again doesn't matter whether you loft up or down. You can't make a blanket statement about adjustable hosels because it will depend on the s
  16. The M3 should have been far more forgiving than the R7 and likewise the Callaway should also be far more forgiving than the R7. Difference between the M3 and Callaway will be much smaller. As stated above the standard Epic will be a higher/straighter flying head than the subzero. Deeper CG means a higher MOI and that means if you hit the ball towards the toe, heel, high, or low on the face, the head will stay more stable and resist twisting and the resulting ball flight will be more consistent in launch and spin.
  17. My bad. I read that as you were adding weight to the back with additional weight, not just moving the existing weight around. Same thing for my initial response to this thread. Not sure if OP was referring to adding or moving weight?
  18. The question however is, was it the movement of CG that gave you the results you saw or was it the change in weight that impacted your swing sequencing and impact. If it was the first, then everyone should see similar results, if it was the second then the results will be individualized by golfer.
  19. This is a topic with a lot of confusion surrounding it. Also has some people trying to take advantage of that confusion. So here is a video that hopefully explains what it is, and what it's not.
  20. Yes it will move the CG back further which can increase the launch and spin and maybe makes it slightly more forgiving but in all three categories, we are talking about very very small changes that most people will never see. Far bigger impact will be the change in static weight and swing weight. That will be what really decides what the result will be.
  21. I put this on the other site you posted on but if you want to do it yourself, here it is.
  22. You don't need a fitting. Waste of time and money. Go with something a little heavier as suggested 5-10 in the 3 wood and again heavier (80-90g) into the hybrid. That is the key spec to worry about. I would pick something mid launch also as both the driver and iron shafts fall into that category so keeping it consistent is never a bad idea.
  23. I've seen pros actually write distances their irons travel in sharpie on the irons.
  24. I like the idea of just putting loft numbers on irons instead of club numbers but good old golf with it's traditions probably won't ever change club numbering. I also realize that putting lofts on heads goes out the window if you have the clubs bent.
  25. Where did you get fit, and how did you end up on the Nippon?
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