Jump to content

Adam C

Established Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Adam C

  1. I would give them another day or carefully bring them in the house overnight to set faster. Bring the leftover too, so you know when it's set. I always tell people to save the leftover epoxy so you can check it's process without disturbing the clubs. I don't think you should have any issues with the bond even if you moved the shaft a bit before it was set.
  2. If it was cold or damp outside that can add a good bit of time to the process. Did you only do the 9 iron or the whole set? Also did you keep the epoxy you mixed up?
  3. It's just tape I am sure, issue is just with that hard tip and butt section and how it connects to the softer middle. Good luck.
  4. Dremel is a great option. You can cut steel and graphite shafts with it. prep shafts (with some practice), could even clean out hosels with it with the right attachment.
  5. If you have been doing regrips you are already well on your way. There is nothing mystical about club making, just geometry, physics, and common sense. If you've got the vise (by far most important tool), torch or heat gun, and a drill as mentioned, those are 3 big basics. Here is what I would add. Utility knife 48 inch ruler epoxy (start with quick set) sand paper (medium and fine grit) hacksaw, manual pipe cutter, rotary tool, or chop saw. Of course if you have a built out shop a belt sander is useful, as is the chop saw, but you can do all the same stuff with manual tools. If you have specific questions about picking shafts, I would ask those separately as you have to be more specific dealing with tip diameter, weight, length, flex, etc. I would look at some videos on Youtube as a starting point. I recommend finding the Mobile Clubmaker.
  6. If it's a Winn, or Superstroke etc style grip with a hard tip and butt cap section (multiple materials) the slim jim style tool is difficult to use. Best bet is with air compressor or inject solvent into the grip in different spots and work it loose that way.
  7. Correct, there is a graphic in the video with that caveat exactly. The face orientation can be in any direction as long as it is consistently used in that same position. The face at the target just insures that the loft number stated on the hosel will be accurate.
  8. I know these questions come up on here from time to time. Think this video can help if you want to understand all the details.
  9. Club Conex offers a couple products that allow for a conventional hosel modification for interchangeable heads. Pieces are around $10-$20 each for a head or shaft. This will add weight to the overall club in the end, both swing weight and static weight so you want to at least be aware of that. Look at the FAZ fit or the FUSE fit product line. One is epoxied inside the hosel and the other you epoxy to the outside of the hosel. Have not used it but looks like you need to sand the outside of the hosel for that one so there is no going back as you will mess up the look of the shaft. The final club lengths will also need to be adjusted depending on which one you use.
  10. You would have to bore out those hosels to get back to a .355 if they are in fact smaller than that. Just make sure it's not just a case of leftover debris in there. Adapters won't help.
  11. The 7 in HD7 refers to the weight, 70g. The flex may or may not be printed on the shaft as I have seen some without it. There should also be a sticker on the butt end of the shaft with the CPM number on it under the grip. Would have to remove the grip and hope the sticker was not removed at some point.
  12. Have you had hands on time with it yet? Also do you have pricing info?
  13. Only you can answer that question. If you hit certain clubs poorly, then you may need to adjust swing weight if it's one of the outliers. The only one that really stands out to me is the AW. I might add some lead tape to that one and get it up a little. The rest I am less concerned with assuming you hit them okay, comparatively.
  14. Don't do it, that's my advise. The idea is counterproductive for most golfers. You are adding to the static weight of the club to "trick" a swing weight scale into showing lower numbers. If you really want/need to lower SW, you need to reduce head weight, change shafts to lighter or counterbalanced, or shorten club. I know these options are more complicated but it is the better way.
  15. Little confused by your comments concerning the offset being the problem. Titleist makes some of the least offset clubs on the market across the board including hybrids. Probably less offset than TM. I am thinking this is more of a weight issue than an offset issue. Shaft weight and swing weight. Would really make sure you have the correct shaft weight in that hybrid as they can be all over the map as far as what the OEMs choose to install stock. That being said, the new TM hybrids will look very similar in general to the old Rescues.
  16. Actually, weight is by far and away the most important spec of any shaft. Way more important than, flex, bend profile, torque, even radial consistency. Getting the weight right is a must, the other stuff is more fine tuning at best. If you want to know better before you go ahead and reshaft, get some lead tape and run strips down the length of the shaft starting an inch or so below the grip. Put 10g of tape on and go hit it. Add or subtract until you get the feel and dispersion you are looking for. You may find you want it even heavier, say around 70 or maybe lighter say 62. Then you can pick your shaft based off that.
  17. I'm done. I will let the OP, or any other readers for that matter, decide for themselves if they want to consider my opinions on this.
  18. It is also possible that your current driver is no longer "conforming". If the face was pretty hot to start with, after this much time and many strikes at your speed, the face may now be above the COR limit. Also just as a point of reference, that R11S head usually spins much more than a new driver of today. The fact that you saw the opposite tells me either the loft needs to go down or you need to look at a different current driver to see what you might be missing. I don't think you are going to get much of a change out of just a shaft switch unless, you go with a different weight, or go longer to increase club head speed. And I would be worried that your contact may suffer if you go that route. Even if those numbers seem overly generous, its obvious that you make solid contact right now.
  19. This isn't one size fits all. This is understanding what kind of golfer we are talking about here. Clearly a good player with plenty of speed to burn. Find me a single fitter out in the world who would be happy with those launch and spin numbers based on his speed (even factor in his AoA if you are wanting to be more "precise") and I will show you a bad fitter. Just look at his old driver numbers, those were really solid. Then jumps into the new driver and numbers jump way up. Obviously something is not where it should be, and the best place to start would be with lofting down that new driver.
  20. The M2 is still a very popular driver. Considered by many to be the greatest modern TM driver. The Black I believe is built on an older driver. Not sure if they are old stock that got a new paint job but that would be my guess.
  21. You need to pay attention to what I said first off. I said for distance and control, not just talking about pure distance. Yes, I see you found some LM data with players hitting individual drives (not averages) way up in the air with minimal spin. That is all good and fine when you are down wind or play golf in Palm Springs. However most players don't want to always hit it high, especially better ones. By the way, feel free to check out the tour averages for players, you will see I am correct with my numbers.
  22. At 165 ball speed, you don't need or want 15 degrees or more of launch angle. It's too much by far. For control and better overall distance you want to be around 12 degrees. You can look at tour guys around that 165 ball speed. All of them are under 12 degrees of launch.
  23. Those smash factor numbers were jacked up in my opinion. You don't see regular golfers hit 1.5 ever really unless the machine has been altered. Again, you need to turn the loft down before you will be able to see any meaningful difference in distance. Get the launch around 12 at most and drop the spin under 2500 would be a good start.
  24. At your ball speeds, those launch and spin numbers are way higher then you would want. Your current driver is giving you much more appropriate numbers for your speed. The new heads are supposed to be more aerodynamic to increase speed. The shaft won't really change speed unless the weight is different (ie lighter). That being said, different feeling shafts can change how you deliver the club and sequence your down swing which might give better club speed. I would dial down the loft on that Cobra and see if the numbers get better. The numbers as they are would not make me want to change unless your dispersion was better? Did not see anything about your misses in your post.
  25. I would call Cobra as possibly the very last resort. You will not get any useful information from anyone there, or any OEM for that matter. Sorry, this sort of thing is above the pay grade of anyone you would talk to. May have slightly better chance calling Fuji. Again though it's more educated guess when dealing with one length clubs based on weight and desired help with ball flight.
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...