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Adam C

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Posts posted by Adam C

  1. If you bought these clubs way back, then you are no spring chicken. By that I mean you may want to look at going into a lighter weight range for steel shafts. Not too many people need or should be swinging DG S300s anymore. There are plenty of options out there every bit as good quality wise but in lighter more manageable weights. Especially if you are taller than average and want to play them with longer shafts, going to 110-120g would be a good option.

  2. 9 hours ago, CharlieB said:

    @AdamC I have Ping G15 irons with TFC149 Soft R flex shafts -1”.

    I am looking at buying a set of Titleist 714 AP1’s with Graphite Kuro Kage 65 R shafts in standard length. Do you think I will lose distance with the Titleist being a R flex? 
    I would not be able to hit the Titleist before buying them. Thanks

    The flex will only play a very small part in the distance and that only comes from increased loft and face closure on the softer flex. The longer shaft length should provide more distance assuming you are still making center face contact. Also the weight may feel quite different as the Pings are naturally lighter feeling in swing weight vs. Titleist and combine that with the fact that the Pings are 1 inch shorter than the Titleist so that the Titleist clubs might feel a bit heavy to start with. That will probably just be something that takes some getting used to though.

    Only other consideration would be the lofts of the two which I am not sure about off the top of my head.

  3. Assuming the current shafts are not wildly wrong for you (way too stiff or soft, heavy or light) you can just extend or cut them down. In my shop I charge $10 per club to change the length and regrip so figure that comes out to $16 per club depending on the grip you want. Lie angle changes are $5 per club.

    A full reshaft is $25 plus the cost of the shafts and grips.

    Just to give you an idea on pricing. Of course that is in USA, not sure what prices difference would be where you are located.

  4. 1 hour ago, louisfr said:

    Absolutely! I also have a driver with a stiff-shaft on it and I have no clue if it's helping me or not (bought second hand). But maybe I should get fitted for what lie etc I need and then customize the clubs I have right now, they are Mizuno JPX 850s. 

    Thank you! This cleared things up for me. My lie, grip, length or even swing speed won't become MUCH different from what it is now, right?

    Those Mizuno's are good sticks and can easily be modified to what you need most likely. Length and grip size will not change unless you decide down the road to go off book because of arthritis or injury etc. Swing speed will in theory go up with better technique and practice but usually not so much that you would need to totally change flexes. Lie angle might change but can always be adjusted. Mizuno's can usually be bent easily so you can adjust as needed.

  5. There are some basic elements that are essential in any fitting that aren't sexy or fun (ie shiny new heads and exotic upgrade shafts), but are by far the most important ones. Those include length, grip size, and lie angle. Everyone should have those dialed in regardless of ability as they will help everyone and don't change as a player progresses usually.

  6. You are going to spend around $5-$10 per club plus the cost of new grips on extending them. So an 8 club set will run you around $110-$130 depending on grips. You will also want larger grips I am pretty sure if you are needing extra length and are 6 foot 3. That is every bit as important as getting the length right.

    That is still way less than you will pay for a newer set of clubs though assuming you like them.

    Extending graphite is not an issue, is done all the time. Only time I don't recommend extensions is if you need to go much over an inch added length. Inch and a quarter is where I usually cut it off and say you are better off reshafting the clubs or getting new ones.

  7. No, that really isn't ideal to regrip at the same time as they epoxied the extension. Hopefully they used tour van epoxy and waited a few minutes at least to let it set before doing the grip. If they waited 20 minutes that would be idea and then gripped again assuming use of tour van epoxy. 

    Don't worry though, probably won't be an issue with a 1 inch extension. Worst case, it comes loose but will still hold in place because of the grip and tape covering it.

    Always better to find an actual club builder to do club work. Big box stores are extremely hit or miss, assume best case they have one competent builder on staff and I use competent generously. Even better do it yourself, extensions are pretty simple repairs and a good practice before moving onto doing reshafts etc.

  8. I personally like a longer club length assuming you can still find the center of the face, and I think the increased SW from the length should help a bit with that. Again the key to distance is speed and contact so you need to find the balance that allows for the best of both.

    Be aware those Vokey wedge shafts are heavy (130g) so full swings are going to be harder with those shafts.

  9. 27 minutes ago, TourSpoon said:


    So I was actually on the money with SW. I feel so validated that I am not spewing nonsense. Thanks for clearing that up! @Adam C

    Oops. Small mistake. I said 5 SW points for an inch on the wedge, it's really more like 6-7. Got my wedges and drivers mixed up with the curve. Inch on a driver will be more like 5 SW points.

  10. A longer club will give you more speed and therefore more distance in most cases assuming you can still make center contact. Guessing the Ping irons feel extra light between the 1 inch short cut, the fact that Pings run light in SW and you have a lighter senior flex shaft. The Vokeys will feel heavier but still light since an inch in a wedge reduces the SW around 5 points.

    If you are looking for distance you may want to extend them back to full length. You may also want to work with a little lead tape on the heads and see if you can't get a little more feel for where the head is and hopefully get some more consistent contact from it.

  11. Are there any other markings on the shaft? What was the club head brand?

    When it comes down to it, no shaft made 25 years ago could hold a candle to the quality of shafts made today, they were just far more inconsistent. If you have any other marking that could tell weight, flex, etc. Might also look under the grip and see if the shaft has any stickers or text at the butt end.

  12. That Hogan shaft I am pretty sure is in the 125g range so I am thinking you really might like heavier. Here is the one thing I would recommend about weight changes. I would again first recommend reshafting one iron just to have another sample to measure. But beyond that, I would go to the range and hit a bucket of balls with your clubs and then bring out the heavier shafted 5 iron and hit that last. Many golfers can really play into a wide range of weights but the question then becomes will you still be able to handle that weight on the 16th, 17th, 18th hole as you could when you started the round fresh. That would be my biggest warning about jumping 40 grams in weight.

  13. You need to hit the other set and see how far you hit them before you make any changes. Forged vs cast makes no difference in how far you hit them, it's loft, head design, shaft weight and length, those are what can impact distance. Once you hit them all, you will know if and what needs to be adjusted. You may find that you need to alter certain irons in the set more than others to hit your desired yardages.

  14. 5 hours ago, Gonzo186 said:

    Thanks for all of your help guys. I've bought a callaway xr driver and 3 wood which are a huge improvement on my previous clubs. 

    I'm also in the market for a hybrid. I bought a second hand standard length cobra f7 hybrid and can't seem to hit the thing! Would I treat hybrids the same as my  irons/wedges - longer shaft and change of lie angle? Or is it more similar to a wood? 

    It's a hybrid so it's really in between a wood and an iron. Length should be adjusted but only so far as to maintain your gapping distance with your other clubs. It will already most likely be longer than any iron so that it won't need much length if any. Lie again will have less impact on flight because of the lower loft. If you have an adjustable hosel hybrid, you could mess with it need be. If it's a bonded hosel, it's a pain to bend so you are just better off leaving it. 

    Can also do a sharpie lie check and see if the lie is way off for any reason. If you don't know how that works you can watch this.


  15. Sounds like the 90s may be too light although I don't know that you need to jump all the way into the 130g range. My suggestion would be to reshaft a 7 or 8 iron with either the x or just the s which is 120g more or less. You can just buy a single shaft and install it, the cost and effort would be minimal and then you can decide if you really like the heavier shaft.

  16. 6 hours ago, Gonzo186 said:

    I recently got fitted for some new irons and ended up buying a set of Callaway Mavriks. Being 6'3 I felt like my current standard length irons were on the short side as I found myself stooping over them and this was confirmed in my fitting, my new irons are an inch longer and also the lie angle has been changed by 3°. The difference was really noticeable straight away and I was hitting straighter and longer off the bat. 

    My question is this... When buying a new driver and or woods (and even lob wedges) does the same rule for length and lie angle apply? I don't want to spend hundreds so looking at second hand but I obviously want them to be right for me. 


    Any feedback welcome 😊

    Wedges you will most definitely want the same specs on. Longer lengths and adjusted lie angles, (although the amount of lie change may be different as many golfers prefer a slightly flatter lie angle on the wedges compared to the irons).

    Driver is a different animal. Length is already long with any modern driver so extending them beyond the 45 1/2 inch standard or whatever the particular driver is wouldn't be advised. An adjustable hosel can change the lie angle some if needed but driver lie angle is usually less of a concern because of the lack of loft. Less loft = less direction change from lie angle issues. Fairway woods will also fall into this category as they have less loft to start with and are pretty long (static length) right off the rack.

  17. Some pictures of your clubs in question would be helpful. Specs will likely be difficult to find other than physically taking the club apart and measuring the component pieces for weight, angles, length etc.

    As far as value goes, any old golf club will be worth little unless it belonged to someone famous. Honma isn't a popular brand in this country so the market for it would be very limited here also. They will always be worth far more to you than to anyone else. 

  18. 1 hour ago, ChetlovesMer said:

    Thank you for this information Adam. I've heard this said often. I've never really had any way to confirm or deny it. I'm sure I heard it recently on a MyGolfSpy podcast. 

    It may be true with some off-brand infomercial type clubs as I have never checked any of them but with all the technology out there measuring ball data and with adjustable drivers it would be hard to sneak past the consumer and what would be the point.

  19. 5 hours ago, ChetlovesMer said:


    I've been told (I have no way of verifying whether its true) that driver lofts are really a degree or two higher lofted than in says on the driver. Something about really needing a 10.5 but wanting to still play a 9 degree. 

    Just FYI. This isn't true. I used to hear this 15 years ago about old Callaway Big Bertha drivers but never actually measured one so I can't say for sure.

    However, I have measured enough modern driver heads to say that they are usually within .5 degrees up or down of what they print on the hosel.

  20. 17 hours ago, Cantankerish said:

    On this note, I am curious.  Would you say that driver is the most important club to get fit for, and the other clubs become increasingly less important as you go down the list toward putter?

    No I wouldn't say that. Each club or group of clubs has certain elements that should be "fit" to the golfer. Drivers should have the correct weight, length, loft, grip size, swing weight etc, and this can be done in doors for many golfers and get the results you need. Wedges need to have the correct lofts and lies but this is much harder to discern indoors. Grinds can be important depending on the golfer but really need to be addressed outdoors on grass.

  21. No, assuming that you have a basic understanding of what you should be looking for. Wedge fitting, especially indoors is a huge waste of time personally. Wedges should ideally be adjusted after you have played with them a bit or at least spent some time at the chipping green. Then you can bend the lie angle or grind them down to fine tune what you need.

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