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Adam C

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Posts posted by Adam C


  1. You are overthinking it. You are basically going to have such similar shafts by hard stepping the 6.5 or softing the 7.0 (both in flex and more importantly in weight), that if you can hit one, you can hit the other or vise versa. You will get much more definitive results from bending the lofts to adjust trajectory. 

    You would really need to move into a different weight class before I would say you would see any noticeable difference over the long haul between shafts.


  2. 21 minutes ago, Darkfrog said:

    Sometimes new, sometimes used. Usually when I buy sets of used shafts off eBay or something, they come pretty cleaned up, but I never thought to check to make sure the old epoxy in the tip was drilled out. When I am reusing my own shafts with new heads, I clean them up pretty thoroughly and remove all the epoxy from the tip, although sometimes a loose piece gets stuck inside the shaft and I have to take off the grip to get rid of the rattle.

    No train tracks near me, but I am in earthquake country, but those are rare, even here. Clamps are probably unnecessary. I tried a couple of the Golfworks clamps thinking that maybe a clamp would hold the ferrule more tightly against the hosel while the epoxy cures to prevent it flowing out. 

    If you have a vent hole and a good fit between the shaft and head, you won't need the clamps. Always take a drill and remove the epoxy from inside the shaft, at least enough to see light through it with the grip off. I always poke a hole in the tape through the grip's vent hole just to ensure I don't have a pressure build up if the grips are left on. 


  3. 15 minutes ago, Darkfrog said:

    I've used the Epoxy-Gon wipes and they do a great job of cleaning up blobs, drips and smears, but haven't been able to remove the thin epoxy flow between the ferrule and hosel.

    I looked around on the website and there are some non-black options. I need to check with Golfworks to see what the differences are between the different epoxies they sell and the current one I've been using. I suspect it doesn't matter much, but I don't want my 7-iron head to go flying down the fairway.

    Yeah, my technique is definitely not perfect. I used to use way too much epoxy, but I think I have that aspect pretty dialed in now. Usually after I put the epoxied head and shaft together, there's a small bead that comes out between the hosel and ferrule that I wipe away. Then I clamp them together for the cure, and do another wipe of the exterior around the hosel/ferrule joint. I've gotten to the point where maybe one out of of three heads has line of epoxy showing. It's barely thicker than a human hair, and wouldn't be noticeable with a black ferrule, but with a colored ferrule it shows up.

    Maybe after wiping the excess epoxy that flows out between the hosel and ferrule initially, I'll separate the head from the ferrule slightly to expose the mating surfaces and wipe these off and then push back together.

    Are you installing new shafts when this happens or using used shafts? If they are used, make sure you are drilling out the old epoxy to have a vent hole. If you do this, you shouldn't ever need to clamp anything, unless you live in an earthquake zone or under train tracks.


  4. 1 minute ago, luisfernandezgolfer said:

    I'm looking for 35 but just curious, can I see it? how much and why are you selling it?

    I will take a picture. I have modified it slightly in that I put a brushed nickel finish on the steel section of the stroke lab shaft. Every other part of that club is matte finished and that bright chrome was distracting in my opinion.

    I got it like new from Callaway Pre Owned for like $130. I occasionally forget that no matter how much I might want to, I can't use a mallet style head. Would do $90 shipped to FL.


  5. In many cases there is not a huge difference between a starter set and a higher end set of a certain age.

    The starter set is a simple forgiving design, using less expensive materials and designs. Quality control will be looser than with high end stuff. Graphite shafts will be light and maybe more prone to breaking. Feel/sound will not really come into the equation with the cheaper sets whereas newer sets will have thought about these sorts of details. 

    The starter set is basically a club design from 20 years ago with lower to mid grade materials. Still very useable but not packed with technology like newer clubs.


  6. Golfworks has clear/off white epoxies, though ideally you should not be seeing any epoxy between the hosel and ferrule if the fit is good.

    Also, you don't need special epoxy removing products. Simple grip solvent very lightly applied to a rag/paper towel can wipe away any residue you may have left on the neck. I always make this the final step in the build process before letting them sit to dry. Wipe the hosel, shaft, and head if it's a wood or hybrid especially. Amazing how many shafts and heads I see where they have dried epoxy on them that could easily have been wiped away if people just took a few extra seconds.


  7. 16 hours ago, Johnnyboy4458 said:

    Thanks @Adam C

    Just thinking out loud here. The Epics lofts are adjustable. So am I better off getting it at 10.5 then that gives me the ability to go down to 9.5 or up to 11.5? 

     

    Thanks again for your help. 

    John 

    John:

    Again if we are basing all this on trying to get that height and spin down using equipment, you are better off with the 9. Like I said above, if you need to loft up to 10.5, the result will also give you more draw bias in the set up which will be helpful to anyone who fades the ball. If you start at 10.5 and decide to loft down, you are then setting the club into a more fade bias setup which would probably be an issue.


  8. 3 hours ago, Johnnyboy4458 said:

    @Adam C Tricky one to call I know but these are the shafts available in 9deg Stiff:

     

    MCA TENSEI AV BLUE 60 GR

    EVEN FLOW GREEN 50 GR

    TT PROJECT X SMOKE 60

    All roughly the same price but the Smoke being in Good condition Vs Very good for the others.

    Gun go your head which one you going for?

     

    Thanks again

    John

     

     

     

     

    Green is probably closest to the original fitted shaft.


  9. 1 hour ago, Johnnyboy4458 said:

    Hey @Adam C

    Thanks as always. I dont hit a 3 wood and the fitter suggested my hybrid was a mess 🙂

    Im just basing the weight off the shaft he suggested I got from the fit for which was 50gr on the VL SLAY shaft.

    Alternative is the  Rogue Draw in 9deg/Stiff with either:

    -  Adilla Synergy 50 

    - Grafolloy Projext X Even Flow Blue 60 (Rogue)

    My ultimate goal here is to get some help coming in to out (which I know is mainly technique but club can help). And also reduce Spin and gain distance by using a newer model driver than my Xhot.

    Note: If I stuck with a 10.5 there are more options on the site but I do hit pretty high already, but maybe a stiff shaft might reduce that height enough by itself?

    Don't go with 10.5, stick with 9. Shaft flex and profile will have very little effect on height. Loft is a far greater influence. Remember these clubs are adjustable so you can alway take the 9 and loft it up to 10 etc. This will also cause the club to sit more closed which will help you. Yes, you can do the same with a 10.5 and loft down but you then open the face more thereby promoting a slice.


  10. 6 hours ago, Johnnyboy4458 said:

    Thanks @Adam C.

     

    Looks like Callaway pre-owned have a 14 day satisfaction guarantee which is good.

     

    What about this below? Similar weight to the one I was fitted for. They have other shafts below but heavier. 

    OTHERS**ALDILA ROGUE WHITE MSI 130 60 GR

    OTHERS**TT PROJECT X SMOKE 70 GR 

     

     

     

    Screenshot_20201006-080827_Chrome.jpg

    That seems like a good option. I personally like the Rogue shaft line but the Project X shafts are also good. As far as weight goes I would drop 5-10 grams off what your 3 wood is to decide on the weight.


  11. 19 minutes ago, Johnnyboy4458 said:

    Yeh I do fight a slice hence the high spin rate and high trajectory I'm finding. I find it almost impossible to draw a ball haha. Mini fade is my shot. 


    Shop the award-winning Rogue Sub Zero Driver online, directly from...

    Thoughts on the below? Subzero seems to help a little more with high spin players Vs the standard.

     

    The subzero line is better for higher speed swings so you would need to evaluate that for yourself. It's also less forgiving on toe and heel strikes because the cg is closer to the face so you get more twisting. It's always a give and take with this game. My default stance is always go with the more forgiving option. Also the standard version is slightly draw biased, the sub zero is neutral to fade if anything.


  12. 15 minutes ago, Johnnyboy4458 said:

    Hey @Adam C

    Rogue 9 Def with Stiff sheet or Reg?

    What about the draw bias one. Would that help at all? Or just a gimmick. 

     

    Thanks again

    John 

     

     

    John, stiffer shaft will usually cut down on spin and launch height a little but flex really comes down more to feel. I would just try and match up flex with the rest of your bag for that part.

    The draw bias just has more weight moved towards the heel promoting more draw gear effect. Also usually has a sole design that forces the club to sit closed when you just sit it on the ground. If you fight a slice and you don't mind that closed address position, the draw won't hurt you. Otherwise stick to the regular version.

    Also if you're buying from the Callaway Pre Owned site, I have a free shipping code if you want it. Had a hybrid I was considering and had in my cart overnight and they sent me the shipping code. Club went out of stock while I was debating so could not use.


  13. Any clamp will work. The $3 rubber one is fine, just slower than a specific shaft clamp. In either case, the important thing is to make sure you don't over tighten the clamp and crack the shaft which is by far the bigger issue than scratching the shaft with a hook blade.

    The hook blade won't cut into the shaft unless you really try to do it. That's the whole point of a hooked blade. A light scratch won't do anything to the shaft integrity. That being said, I prefer not to scratch the graphite so I just angle the blade at 45 degrees when I cut and that takes care of it. If you are really paranoid about scratches you can use scissors to cut off the old grips also.


  14. 10 hours ago, Typhoon92 said:

    Adam, .350 adapters are available

    s-l400.jpg

    Compatible with R15 Driver and Fairway Wood. compatible with M4 Driver. compatible with M1 Driver...

     

    Oops. Should have thought of that. Good catch.

    Just be aware any adapter you buy off eBay, Amazon etc that's not OEM made can be questionable on quality both in terms of durability and tolerances for fit.


  15. 12 hours ago, Duffdad1023 said:

    So I have a really stupid question. I have a TaylorMade M3 driver, but I hate the shaft. I've tried going with a regular flex instead of stiff, but still no good. I have an old Taylormade Burner driver that has the Fujikura superfast reax 50 stiff shaft in I love it. Can I pull the shaft off the old Burner driver to put a tip on it and use it on the M3? 

    If you have any Burner driver model from the last 20 years it is going to be .350 tip which means you are out of luck on using in an M3. If you have a TP model then the shaft would be .335 but the shaft you described is not one of those from my memory.

    Are you sure it's the shaft specifically that you prefer in the older club? Might want to look at the length, club weight, or swing weight and see if you can replicate the old club feel in the new one. Could also be the head on the M3 you don't get along with.


  16. 3 hours ago, Johnnyboy4458 said:

    It's the blue version currently. 

    When you say one of the shafts you were thinking. Thinking I should buy? 

    I was thinking it could be a good option. But since that is the starting shaft that had bad results, scrap that idea. The blue is counterbalanced though, so that might be an issue. If you want to do a cheap experiment, get some lead tape and put 2-3 inches of it somewhere on the back of the head and see if that does anything to your ball flight.


  17. 1 hour ago, saevel25 said:

    Not sure about that. You can lower the loft by a few degrees and get a few hundred RPM. Yet, I can see the same with a dramatic change with a driver shaft change. 

    We are talking technical measurements based on what a shaft can physically do versus what a loft change can do. Yes, there are cases where a shaft influences the golfer timing and swing sequence to impact ball flight to a greater degree, but this would be difficult to measure and has too many variables that go along with it including face impact location and short term vs. long term effect (ie how shaft X impacts your swing when following shaft W versus shaft Y and how that compares to how shaft X impacts your swing when placed in the general rotation of your specific golf bag versus during a fitting).


  18. 1 hour ago, Johnnyboy4458 said:

    Hi Adam,

     

    Thank you so much for such a detailed reply.

    I didnt get a chance to screenshot my data but the launch height was very high and i knew that before getting fitted just by playing. Current loft of the X Hot is 10.5 but sometimes feels like 18.5 :). I would say it starts normal height but then gets really high, and almost gets trapped in the wind, possibly due to high spin. I get almost zero run on.

    "What else did you hit during the fitting, as that could help narrow down options. "

    - I hit all the new heads really, it was a very quick fitting so didnt get a chance to write and keep up.

    It definately feels like i need something to help reduce spin. For sure my current regular flex shaft.

     

    If you think the head wont be helping me, I could just go for a new drivers but wouldnt really know what to look for. £/$200 would be about the budget.

    Or I could just pick up one of the shafts mentioned by you previously.

     

    Thanks again

    John

     

     

     

     

    Loft will always play a much larger role in spin and launch angle than any shaft will so it may make sense to get a lower lofted head to start with. I might look at a 9 degree Callaway Rogue Driver or similar. It's a couple models old at this point but you can still find them and since you already have a Callaway wouldn't be a huge change in feel. Callaway also has a great pre-owned site where you can get some really good deals on used and like new equipment.

    I just have serious doubts that the simple shaft change will really do much for your issue over the long haul so a head change makes more sense to me.


  19. Go back and look at Golf Digests Hot List from 5-7 years ago online and find the game improvement category. The Hot List is a bit of a joke I realize but you will see the offerings from all the big companies for that year. Then just go on Ebay and see what you can find putting in whichever club looks good. Ping, Callaway, Taylormade, Cobra, Cleveland, all good options.


  20. Few different things to look at here. First as already mentioned 6.5K spin is really high and no shaft is going to bring that down by itself. I would like to see that number under 3000. I would suggest taking a look at where you are making contact on the face of the club as that can greatly influence the spin numbers. Also just fyi, that head is going to produce more spin than something from the last 4 or 5 years. I would almost be tempted to say find a new driver and just go with the shaft that comes with it.

    What loft is on the current driver as that will also play a big role in spin and launch? Also did not see any mention of ball flight height. Assuming its really high, but wanted to check if it starts high or rises up after launch.

    If you want comp shaft recommendations to the Slay, which is technically mid price range by todays pricing, there are tons out there. VA actually calls this shaft a high launch, low spin design. Now technically that isn't really possible as launch and spin go together ie high/high or low/low. It really looks more like a mid launch and spin design to me. Similar options to look at could be Aldila Tour Blue 55g (Ebay around $60), any Mitsubishi Blue board style (will say blue in name or have blue color on it) again in 55g (Ebay around $80-$200 depending on model) would be too options. What else did you hit during the fitting, as that could help narrow down options. 

    Last thing, I might watch this video below I did concerning finding the ideal set up for your driver. Again the swing is going to be the biggest influence but impact position on the face will also play a large role.

     

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